paul.h

Welcome to the forum. Not sure I can help much but are you saying the existing reversing camera does not give a good enough view when reversing ? To have a screen on the dash that permanently gives a rear view seen by the driver when driving forward might not be legal so you would need to check this before doing anything - in the instructions with dash cams it points out that this is not legal, hence the need for the screen on them to be blank when moving.

I have edited your profile signature to add your car details to save you needing to mention it for each new topic. I vaguely remember arak81 having a problem which was caused by a dash bulb that had failed, so something to check. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23190-headlight-levelling-is-not-working-where-is-the-fuse-for-it/ You might need to fix the problem before the MOT since the switch has to be set at position 0 for the headlight alignment check.

Have you used a code reader to help decide what is faulty and if so what fault code do you have ? I have moved the topic in to a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and are then difficult to find.

We had a C4 where the date/clock kept resetting and that was fixed by a software update but it was still under warranty so no charge to us.

Welcome to the forum. If you want a permanent 12 volt supply you might be best taking it from the battery. On our 2007 C5 the dash fusebox has some permanent live spare fuse positions used for cars with electric seats. These take a supply from the battery through maxi fuses so if your car is similar it gives you options. I used the spare fuse inlet with a spade connector to a new wire/in-line fuse to a towbar.

Have a look through the Technical Section Common Problems pinned topic since there are a few things to check such as a leaking steering rack and front wipers not working, both can cost a lot to fix and on a 9 year old car there could be a lot wrong. You probably know how to check an auto box but a manual is probably less likely to give expensive bills. Also It would need a timing belt change, possibly the exhaust dpf cleaning or replacing but if missing/drilled through then a car to avoid since next year the MOT is going to be tightened up.

I sometimes think it would be good to replace our 2007 C5 with a newer C5 (X7) tourer but since we tow a caravan I prefer the hydractive suspension which only comes on the exclusive models. However, I do not want the electric tailgate and the electric handbrake that it would have since our C5 is not used frequently and the battery voltage is often low. If you can successfully change to a manual tailgate then that is one less reason for not changing the car. If you register on service.citroen you can see the parts diagrams. Register as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres You might need to select your language first and once on the site use your VIN (VIS) top left to find your car. At the left side click on Characteristics for info on your car. The parts diagrams can be seen free but you can also pay for additional info such as workshop procedures but I have never done this since I have these in the Citroen Service box on dvd (bought through ebay) although it is a bit out of date at 2012.

Welcome to the forum. Have you got a floor mat that can move under the pedals or catch on them and stop them working properly ? You could also look at the top of the pedals to see if there is a fault or they are seized on the pivot shaft. A Citroen floor mat will fasten at the back end under the driver's seat so it can not move but other makes of mat may not do this.

Sounds as if the head gasket or a cylinder liner seal has failed. I do not think this engine has an oil cooler that could have failed.

I have moved this topic in to a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a couple of days and are difficult to find and may not receive any replies. Also they do not count to your total number of posts.

If you buy the anti freeze from a dealer, make sure you get the 100% strength since they also sell 50%. If you do not get all the old stuff out of the engine block and the water you use to flush it out, then if you add the diluted stuff the final strength could be too weak. I would add the right amount of anti freeze and then top up with water so this way you know it will be strong enough. To get the air out it helps to raise the level in the expansion tank. Citroen use a tool for this but I made one from an old expansion tank cap and some basin waster pipe. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/24799-coolant-filling-tool-alternative-to-cylinder-4520-t-and-4222-t/ If the hose clip is one of those that you squeeze so it goes to an open position, be careful that the clip may snap and then it may need cutting off since trying to lever it off, the new sharp point at the break may cut in to the hose - my experience. I then had to replace the hose since I also cut in to it with the hacksaw but then used normal jubilee clips so this would not happen again. My new top hose came with the squeeze clips which are glued on but with care were removed. When testing them off the hose one of the new ones also broke so I was happy I had not used it.

Maybe you could check the lowering switch wiring. You could also try a message to coastline taxis, he likely will have seen problems like this but does not use the forum every day. I will not be on here for a couple of weeks now either so will be unable to add any more posts for a while.

Welcome to the forum. It could be the fan resistor, the fan electrical connector, a wiring problem or the blower itself. If replacing the resistor works but then fails again then the blower probably needs replacing since it has a fault that puts extra load on the resistor. To check the blower you could try a 12 volt supply direct to the blower. If you have a meter you could also check for 12 volts reaching the blower. I cannot imagine any connection between the cabin blower and the anti freeze. If it has recently turned dark without you doing anything such as topping up with coloured AF, then possibly it could mean a head gasket leak or a cylinder seal leak.

Maybe the pump motor needs an internal clean http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23976-c5-suspension-fault-pump-maxi-fuse-blowing-fault-code-p1351/ or maybe the height sensors have a fault. Do the arms on the sensors move easily ? If a sensor needs replacing it is not really a diy job since it is positioned roughly but then a diagnostic does the final height calibration. Also the sensors should not be removed from the car due to this. When the car is lowering the pump does not run.

The BBC have reported the MOT test is going to change again in May 2018 to better detect if a DPF has been removed so likely in a few months we will know what the changes will be. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-41761864 If it will detect if a DPF has been removed/drilled through then there could be a glut of diesels for sale before next May so people need to be careful if buying a car.

Have you checked the battery negative earth strap as Randombloke has suggested ? Other people seem to have the same problem trying to close manually but it not working when the battery needs charging http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23599-c5-tourer-electric-tailgate-2010/ I think I would be tempted to convert the tailgate to a manual opening/closing one, it does not seem worth the bother having an electric one. I could be wrong but you might only need to swap the electric struts for the manual ones, part number 8731R6 and maybe do something with the electrics such as disconnect them.

There are not many of us fixing our own cars these days (or anything else). However, it lets you run an older car which would not be economic if you had to pay for labour charges, our local dealer charges £96 an hour. Even on ones under warranty I clean the brakes since that is not part of the service you pay for, just an oil change and a few filter changes for around £250. I've had children from the street come and watch whilst working on our cars since they do not see anything like it at home - no wonder the mentality these days is to throw things away rather than fix them since people are not being exposed to practical things. The images where there should be a photo I have often seen when people no longer have the accounts where the links go to.

A search comes up with a few things you can try before going for a diagnostic check. A cheap code reader will not do though since these will not read suspension codes. You may have seen this one https://frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=56957 Since the suspension pump can be live most of the time I would disconnect the battery before removing plugs. On the C5 Technical section pinned Common Problems topic there is a procedure I use for disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. You probably already know to raise the suspension to max and then use axle stands to support the body before going underneath and playing with the height sensors. We do not want you coming back and saying you have been squashed if the body drops to a low level.

Apart from the message, what is the suspension doing, is it showing any signs of a fault ?

This might help, a diy reset by flooring the accelerator rather than a diagnostic calibration http://c4owners.org/plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?181209.0

I am not sure but I do not think you have a BMW vti engine so things about variable valve timing will not apply. The engine type is in the letters in the car VIN, a Citroen 1.8 I think may have EW7 whereas vti may be EP. Looks as if P1339 is a misfire on cylinder number 3. Note Citroen sometimes number cylinders from the gearbox end. Could be a coil pack that needs replacing http://www.c2club.co.uk/showthread.php?27177-P1339-error-code-when-engine-cold-fine-when-warm If you remove it have a look at the contacts where the spark plugs touch and check for any corrosion, I had this on a C3 and they had turned green but it was not bad enough to give any fault codes. If you replace the coil pack also replace the spark plugs. I had a faulty spark plug on a Saab once that gave intermittent misfires and it took a lot of effort to find the fault. Some coil packs may not be good quality so cheap is not always best. Another similar one http://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages/peugeot_trouble_code_p1337_p1338_p1339_p1340_how_to_fix_227104.cfm However, you have already replaced the coil pack and this did not help. Is the timing belt due for renewal but I would expect any fault with this would happen all the time if the timing is out. If the engine is rattly it could be a sticking tappet on cylinder 3 but it would likely happen all the time. http://c4owners.org/plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?197437.0#post_197447 I replaced the accelerator pedal on a C3 where the revs did not increase gradually between about 1000 and 2000 rpm which made it difficult to set off but this happened all the time. It is probably not this, but do you clean the carbon build up off the throttle plate when you service the car. I use carb spray cleaner but a cloth damp with white spirit will do. If not done this can affect the idling and cause stalling. If your next option is to spend a lot of money, I think you may be better getting a Citroen dealer to do the diagnostic check.

Welcome to the forum. You should have a validating email to reply to which could be in a spam folder.

John Douglas fit MAD progressive springs to his C5 (X7) tourer to help when towing and there is a post on here mentioning it http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21242-c5-mk3-towing-experience-please/?hl=%2Bcaravan+%2Btowing&do=findComment&comment=78930 . He does not use the forum anymore but can be found on the Caravan Talk forum under the name jaydug. From the Citroen service box workshop procedures you need to remove the rear shock absorbers / springs and then use spring compressors on them so the shock absorber top eye can be removed and the springs removed. Similar to front macpherson struts. To remove the shock absorbers, jack up the rear of the car, on the left one remove a cover at the bottom then undo its lower and top bolts (70 Nm) so it can be removed. On the right the top bolt is accessed from inside the boot under a cover. These bolts are tightened with the car on the ground so the bushes are not twisted. New nuts are supposed to be used. Once they are off the car, compress the coil springs then use spanners on the top eye and a flat on the top of the spindle under the washer so the top eye can be removed. When fitting back the eye is tightened to 60 Nm. You will need to inform your insurance company of the change but I can not imagine it would affect the premium. If not already done you also need to tell them you have a towbar, no need to give them any reasons to not pay out if you need to claim.

I have read that the noise these pulleys make when the rubber insert has perished is more of a rattle but maybe you have the belt chirping due to misalignment from the pulley and the pulley making its own noise. The Citroen part might be 0515R8 but this should be checked using your VIN. At least you now know what needs replacing and it should cost less than the belt tensioner, as an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crankshaft-Pulley-For-Peugeot-206-207-307-308-Bipper-Partner-1-4l-1-6l-16V-/302116926519?hash=item4657927437:g:2~4AAOSw44BYEKRd

Never tried anything like this and if you look in the car handbook it may advise against using additives in case if affects the catalyst / particulate filter (dpf). The correct engine oil is a low ash type for the dpf. Unless your car is giving a warning the filter is blocking up, I would just use it on a motorway every now and then keeping the revs up for around 20 minutes. If it does block then if you do your own maintenance, some people will remove the filter and jet wash it to remove the ash so is something to try. A very brief search suggests that the dpf cleaners could be a similar additive to the eolys fluid already used by your car to clean the dpf. If so they will probably not be of any additional benefit. For other car makes that do not use eolys fluid but rely on enrichening the air/fuel mix with more diesel for a regeneration, then an additive may help.