paul.h

Welcome to the forum. There are a lot of C5 owners here so if you need any help or can help others, you are in good company. In the C5 Technical section there is a pinned post of common problems that is worth looking at.

I did check the parts diagrams for all the C4s and these inserts are not shown but if you want to check yourself using your VIN (VIS) (top left on the site) you can do this on the service.citroen site if you register as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp If the inserts do not come out with the car on the ground, you may find jacking up will let the spring lose its compression enough to make removal easy. Obviously use an axle stand. If your car only came with the aerosol and pump instead of a spare wheel/jack/wheel brace/yellow plastic bolt cap removal tool, then you may need to use a jack from another car. If you buy all these things from a dealer it is around £200. If you need to top up the Adblue through the boot filler, try not to spill any since once it dries out the boot will be full of urea crystals which can smell - a neighbour had a container tip over in their Audi boot. On a transporter with the car held by the wheels, I would imagine a car body would bounce up and down a lot and these inserts would stop that. A dealer that sells new cars should know about them - if you go back to the same one, ask to look at another car in the showroom.

Welcome to the forum. Whatever you do, do not run the engine without the oil flowing - it will destroy the turbo in no time and then you may need a new engine as well as a turbo and oil pump and it may be cheaper to scrap the car and get another. Even with the oil flowing, the turbos have a reputation for failing early. There is also the risk of the cylinder head parts wearing out and the engine seizing. The Haynes manual for the C5 covers the 1.6 hdi engine. It says the oil pump can be replaced with the engine still in the car, the timing belt and crankshaft pulley need removing, the sump needs removing and the oil pick up pipe, and then the pump can be unbolted.

Welcome to the forum. Haynes do a manual for the 2CV which ought to help. Back firing may be due to the fuel/air ratio not being correct, possibly due to an air leak or the timing out a bit or maybe the valve clearances being out - I would think the Haynes manual will show how to adjust these. From a search, these people may be able to help http://the2cvshop.co.uk/

Welcome to the forum. Your fuel receipt will say if it was diesel or petrol you put in. To have a fire there must have been a leak of fuel or oil or brake fluid and probably on to something hot to ignite it. Where and on what parts was the fire ? This should be covered by your insurance so you should contact them and they will advise on what to do to get it repaired but I would insist on it going to a Citroen dealer, even though they are likely to say using their recommended repairer will give a longer guarantee. Being a 1.6 hdi, any damage to the turbo can be expensive and some would even recommend replacing the engine. If it just needs a turbo and its associated parts the cost could be approaching £1000.

Welcome to the forum. The VIN gives the car as a C5 II 5 DOOR SALOON 1.6 HDi 110 particle emission filter (DV6TED4) Manual gearbox 5 and has allowed a part no. search against your car. Looks as if there has been an oil and filter change - huile is oil and Total INEO 5w-30 has been used which is correct for a car with a dpf, a dpf change, the sump has been replaced, the dpf regenerated and the eolys fluid level checked. Being a 1.6 hdi, possibly the sump has been replaced to remove any sludge that could cause early turbo failure (a common problem on the 1.6 hdi) or maybe it was damaged and possibly the dpf was damaged at the same time or it was due for replacement. The mec may be labour charges since they are all the same. The numbers look as if they are parts numbers if you ignore the 0000. 179744 is a dpf joint kit 1731JT is the dpf (FAP) 1714F9 is a pressure sensor pipe from the dpf 301N1 is the engine sump 31129 is the sump drain plug 31340 is the drain plug sealing washer 1109AY is the oil filter element the etancheite may be sealant for the sump to engine block joint since I could not find the part against the number.

I have found you can print the service schedule from the service.citroen site if you use your car VIN (VIS) to select your car. It then gives the servicing as Systematic operation without saying what this is (usually oil/filter replacement, checking everything, fluid level top ups and any ecu updates) and then listing the mileage and time for Additional operations such as air filter/brake fluid/fuel filter/aux belt/timing belt/dpf/eolys/coolant pH check/cabin filter replacements. You need to be registered on the site which can be done as another professional and a member of the Citroen Owners Club. http://service.citroen.com/pages/index.jsp

Welcome to the forum. Our C4 does not have these and they are not shown in the parts diagrams. I suspect they may be there for delivery purposes and should have been removed by your dealer before the car was handed over. I would imagine with them fitted the suspension/driving must feel odd and very hard over any bumps.

In the handbook in the section on the handbrake there is a way to release the handbrake in an emergency such as if the battery is flat. This may be a way of releasing the handbrake to allow you to fit new pads so could be worth checking to see if the handbrake is released more than normal at the calipers.

If fitting new pads, the brake pistons are wound in clockwise using a piston winding tool. However, the diagnostic is to put the parking brake in the removal position and then to calibrate it once everything is installed again. It may well be possible that this diagnostic work is not needed and hopefully another member may advise on this. If you are just removing and refitting the old pads after cleaning, then maybe the diagnostic is not required. The following is a slightly modified Citroen procedure for brake pad replacement for cars with the electric handbrake: 2. Precautions to be takenBefore any operations ; Place the electric parking brake in the removal position ; Using a diagnostic tool.After any adjustment ; Carry out the electric parking brake calibration procedure ; Using a diagnostic tool. 3. RemovingIf the brake fluid reservoir is at maximum level, remove its filter and partially drain the reservoir with the aid of a clean syringe in order to avoid it overflowing.Slacken the parking brake .Place the electric parking brake in the removal position ; Using a diagnostic tool.CAUTION : After switching off the ignition: wait 15 minutes before disconnecting the battery, to ensure that the initialisations of the various ECUs are memorised.Disconnect the battery.Untighten the rear wheel bolts.Raise and support the vehicle, with the rear wheels hanging free.Remove :The rear wheel bolts and the rear wheelsRemove the caliper retaining spring Unclip the brake hose.Uncouple the parking brake cable (2) from the brake caliper and unclip it from the caliper.Remove :The caliper lower plastic blank and then the revealed lower caliper retaining bolt Tilt the brake caliper upwards.Remove the brake pads.4. CleaningESSENTIAL : Do not use compressed air to clean the brakes.4.1. 1st possibilityClean the brake disc and the brake caliper, using an approved brake cleaning product.Leave to drip dry.Wipe with a paper towel :The brake discThe brake caliper4.2. 2nd possibilityUse dedusting equipment approved by the manufacturer .5. Refitting Visually check :The sealing around the brake caliper pistonThat the protective gaiters are in good condition and correctly adjustedWear of the brake discReplace any defective parts.CAUTION : No trace of grease, oil or lubricant can be tolerated on the brake pads. Turn and push back the rear brake caliper piston clockwise using a piston winding tool.Check the brake fluid level.Refit :The brake padsThe caliper lower retaining bolt (28 Nm) and refit its plastic plug.Clip in the handbrake cable to the caliper.Couple the parking brake cable on the brake caliper.Clip the brake flexible pipe back.CAUTION : Ensure that the guides of the parking brake cable are correctly positioned in their housing and ensure that the parking brake cable shells are correctly positioned in the caliper levers.Refit :The caliper retaining springThe rear wheel and bolts (100 Nm).Reconnect the battery.CAUTION : Apply the brakes several times, gently and progressively, with the engine running, before driving the vehicle.Check the brake fluid level and top up if necessary.Return the vehicle to its wheels.Tighten : The rear wheel bolts.CAUTION : Perform the operations to be carried out following reconnection of the battery. 6. Operations to be carried out after the repairCarry out the electric parking brake calibration procedure ; Using a diagnostic tool.Activate the electric handbrake control.Check the immobilisation of the wheels. As well as this procedure, it is normal practice to apply a smear of copper grease on the back of the brake pads and on the edges where they contact the caliper bracket. Also do this where the alloy wheels contact the hub to avoid them corroding and sticking together. When pushing/winding in pistons, I prefer to release the brake fluid out of the bleed screw to avoid pushing any dirt back in to the brake system but care needs to be taken so that air does not enter the caliper- only have the bleed screw open whilst the piston is moving in and then close it just as it stops, also have the bleed screw at the highest point which may require the caliper to be removed from the bracket. In a few days I will put this topic in the C5 section.

Thankyou for this, the noise has been reported before but no solutions given until now. I have included it in the Common Problems topic.

The cabin fan also needs to be running for the air con to work and the engine fan will switch on and off. When the air con is switched on the compressor clutch will be heard to click if it is working - if so then the heater flaps need looking at as coastline has posted. The dye used is a UV dye so would not be seen using an infra red light but needs a UV light.

Drop links are usually not expensive and are easy to fit so you should be able to do them yourself. Check the tyre size and price of new ones since they may be expensive but at 3 mm tread they will be ok for a few thousand miles. You can look in the handbook (on the service.citroen site) to see which bulb needs replacing and how to do it. I would also check its service history since at its mileage the dpf/eolys may be due and if not done you need to allow a few hundred. Similarly the timing belt.

From the Haynes manual - It is located at the top of the heating/ventilation housing at the left hand side - you should be able to see if from the passenger (RHD car) footwell if you look up behind the dash. To access it on a RHD car, the glove box needs to be removed, rotate the motor anti-clockwise and then pull it out. On a LHD car, the steering column has to be removed. The speed control resistor pack is just below the blower .

Welcome to the forum. What year is the car ? It is not normal for the engine fan to run all the time, is the engine overheating ? You could do a diagnostic check with a code reader that gives live data to see if the engine temperature is high enough for the fan to run, should probably start at about 96°C and stop when the temperature has dropped down about 2°C.

I would definately test the battery, only takes a few minutes and does not cost anything. You could use the spare key. Eco mode is a Citroen/Peugeot thing that switches off things such as the interior lights and radio to stop the battery going flat. It will be in the car handbook. After turning off the engine, it can take up to about 15 to 30 minutes (depending on how well charged the battery is) to come on if any of these things are in use or the doors are opened a lot. It will reset once the engine is running again. It could also be a reason why the diagnostic equipment will not communicate with the car but I am not sure. If you are not happy with the garage I would take it somewhere else. If you are in the AA/RAC or similar, they would do this for you and they are likely to tell you what is wrong with the car when they see/check it. If you do not have a handbook, these can be read/saved/printed from the service.citroen site http://service.citroen.com/ddb/

The sump plug does not use a spanner or socket to remove it, instead it uses a square or hex key, may be 8 mm. The hole in the plug may be full of dirt to confuse the mechanic. Check the right oil has been used since you have a dpf and a low saps oil is recommended - could be Total Ineo quartz ECS 5w-30 full synthetic. It is not advisable to remove the oil by the dip tube since the sludge will remain in the sump. I would be tempted to get the sump plug sorted if the correct key will not work (maybe stillsons on the outside round edge will undo it) and change the oil again. If I remember, later I will move this topic to the C5 section since it will be more relevant there and is then more likely to be read by C5 owners.

Welcome to the forum. This is a first for the C3 as far as I can remember on this forum. What Year is your car ? Possibilities could include - the air con unit drain is blocked or the drain hose has come off - the drains on the engine side of the bulkhead could be blocked with such as leaves - a leaking windscreen seal. Has the windscreen been replaced ? - if it is a 2009 on C3 with the large windscreen these may leak along the top - the door plastic seals behind the door card may not be stuck at the bottom or possibly damaged so water runs in to the car - the Xsara Picasso was known for this. - blocked door or sill drain holes To dry the car out properly may need the carpets removing.

Welcome to the forum. There is a Haynes manual for the C4 which is worth getting.http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0857335766/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1431214312&sr=1-1&keywords=haynes+c4 The idle rpm will not stay fixed since it will be constantly changing/adjusting from the management system. However, it you wish to check a few things, in the Haynes manual for engine idles erratically it gives: - vacuum leak at the throttle housing/intake manifold - worn or faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs - engine management system fault (have a look on your code reader at the inlet lambda sensor readings, it should switch frequently) - uneven or low engine cylinder compressions - camshaft lobes worn - timing belt incorrectly fitted - disconnected, leaking or perished crankcase ventilation hoses To this I would check the air fliter is clean and that the fuel filter is not due for replacement.

Welcome to the forum. What is the one click - is this the sound from the starter motor solenoid as you turn the key in the ignition switch ? How many miles has the car done - the timing belts are typically replaced at around 100k miles or 10 years on Citroens and this info will be in the Warranty and Maintenance Guide. If the starter motor is not turning the engine over then the battery may be flat - check its voltage with a meter, should be about 12.5 volts before the engine is running and then about 14.4 volts. If the engine stopped because the timing belt has broken then it is possible the pistons may have hit the valves and it may not be possible to turn the engine. If it stopped due to a fuse failure (we had this on a 2005 2.0 hdi Picasso), then fuse replacement would be easy. For a diagnostic check you would be better using a Citroen dealer who would have the correct equipment. If it stopped due to a sensor failure then something like the crankshaft sensor would prevent the car starting but would still let the engine turn over on the starter motor.

Welcome to the forum. What year is the car and which engine does it have and petrol or diesel ? In the Haynes manual for the C3 2002 to 2009, for the TU1/3/5JP petrol engines it says if the timing belt breaks or slips in service the pistons are likely to hit the valve heads - so implying these are not a clearance engine. It also says the same for the 1.4 DV4TD and DV4TED4 diesel engines.

Welcome to the forum.

If it is not a fuse then often a blower failing to work or only working at one speed can be caused by its control resistor pack failing. Sometimes replacing this can be a temporary fix and it will fail again since the blower may also need replacing.

It could pay you to buy a code reader. One with live data can be bought for £40 such as this one from Gendan and I would think they will post to Spain https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html On their website it says to email them for a price delivered outside of the UK.

Sometimes people have found a missing handbook in a drawer under one of the front seats.