paul.h

Has anybody had a problem trying to add a photo (avatar) to their profile ? As far as I remember, I put mine on the site by browsing the files on my computer but the photo had to be a small size and is only 34 kb. For adding other photos to a post this is done by putting them on another site and posting a link.

Yes, that part has been used on a few different models. I would still mention you need the part to fit your car. The ebay link was from a search with the part no. so they should all be correct. Check if the eurocarparts one is for your car since a new one would be better than one 10 years old. http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Citroen_Xsara+Picasso_1.6_2000/p/car-parts/car-transmission/transmission-parts/driveshaft/?654545201&1&e6d60a9b323491c51a4fb1a32857bc4795990998&000113 Some dimensions are given so you could check these against your part.

Using your car VIN in the service.citroen site and the vehicle characteristics gives the following for your car: - warranty start date (registration date effectively) 9/10/2000 - engine TU5JP injection 100 hp. This engine has one camshaft and 8 valves. If you look at it the cam shaft cover will be narrow. - BE4 J manual gearbox - car RPO number is 08695. The driver's side (right side when sat in the car and looking forward) driveshaft part no. is 32739Z for a new one and 3273AA for an exchange one. The passenger side part nos. are 32726W for new and 32727W for exchange. The driver's side part no. is used on some of the other engines 1.8 petrol and 2.0 hdi but on all engines the part no. changes with newer models. Using the eurocarparts site, they list a new one at £48.60 against a year 2000 Picasso, 1.6 petrol. There are a few used ones on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_lncat=0&_nkw=32739Z&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1 Have you tried to put the ball bearing back in your existing driveshaft ?

On the eurocarparts site they list dmf solid flywheel clutch replacement kits but the price is not much different to a dmf one.

A bit of info on how I change the oil, to add to John's notes. Oil changes can be a bit messy so rags/tissues/newspaper will limit this. If jacking up the C5, first raise the suspension to max height and use an axle stand so it cannot drop back down. I collect the old oil in an old washing up bowl, placed on a large piece of cardboard under the sump plug. Wear a PVC or latex glove on the right hand (if right handed) to keep oil off, slacken the sump plug a bit (it may be tight so a foot may help to push the wrench) and then finish removing by hand over the bowl, trying not to drop the plug as the oil pours out. A rag is useful to wipe the plug straight away (and gloved hand) to avoid drips over the drive and then place on newspaper. The bowl should be positioned under the oil filter as well as the sump plug hole so oil from both will be collected but if not possible, temporarily fit the sump plug and put the bowl under the filter. Then remove the oil filter - oil will pour out of it so quickly tip upside down to stop it and then place on the newspaper, still upside down. The glove can now be removed. Wipe clean the oil filter location on the engine block. When the new filter is fitted, if posible I fill it with fresh oil first and smear a bit of oil on its seal to help it turn - as John says, do up hand tight plus a bit but do not use any tools. Once the oil has stopped dripping from the sump, wipe the plug hole, fit the new sealing washer to the plug and then screw in to the sump - torque setting 34 Nm from the Haynes manual. The cardboard/old bowl and old oil can now be dragged from under the car without making a mess. When adding the fresh oil, a funnel helps in the oil filler so oil is not spilt all over the engine. Add about 1 litre of oil less than needed, let it settle, check the level on the dipstick (remove, wipe clean, refit and then remove to see the level), if above the min mark (if not add a bit more) run the engine for a few seconds. Then let the oil settle again for a few minutes, check the level again and if needed, add a bit more so it is between the min and max marks on the dipstick. Min to max is about 1½ litres on the dipstick. Run the engine again and repeat the level check. If still between min/max then next check the level after several hours. Do not fill above max since this could be drawn in to the turbo and result in the engine running on the engine oil and not be possible to stop. Check around the oil filter and the sump plug for any leaks. The old oil I put in to an old oil container, again on newspaper, put a funnel in it and then pour it out of the bowl. In an ideal world, the funnel and container would fit under the sump so the bowl bit would not be needed. Similarly, the old filter is placed in the funnel so the oil drips out in to the container. The oil can then be taken to the council recycling centre for disposal.

Checks can be done on the dual mass flywheel to see if it needs replacing. So until the gearbox is removed, you will not know if a new one is needed. Bear in mind though, if it is worn and not replaced, the new clutch may not last long - a colleague had this on a VW 1.9 Polo, new clutch lasted for 5000 miles, then it was found the dual mass flywheel needed replacing.

A simple check to see if the dpf has been removed or its insides knocked out, is to look at the exhaust tailpipe. The inside of the pipe should be clean metal with no soot covering, based on the mark 1 and mark 2 2.2 hdi C5s I've had with dpfs.

Welcome to the forum. Some good advice there. As a reminder though this forum can not recommend removal of the dpf. Due to changes to the MOT test this year, the dpf should not be removed from a car if one was orginally installed on it when made and this is now checked at the MOT - if it has been removed the car should fail. I can imagine MOT checks for the egr valve will come in the future since this also affects the emissions - recycling exhaust gases is supposed to cool the combustion to reduce nitrogen oxides in the exhaust.

This week, Morto's C5 2.2 hdi mark 1, originally with a dpf (but I am not sure if removed) has failed the MOT on emissions. He still has to report back on this so more info will follow. I still need to point out though that removal of the dpf can not be recommended by this forum, it can be considered illegal, the car should fail the MOT and the insurance is unlikely to be valid. As with all modifications the insurer should be notified and the car should be kept up to MOT standards.

Welcome to the forum. These are things you could check without spending any money, but I am surprised there were no fault codes stored after the engine light came on. - condition of air filter /spark plugs / ignition coil pack - MAP sensor on inlet manifold for blockage - check fuel injectors for corrosion on the electrics - on the 1.4 petrol C3 water would drip on these and cause them to fail - clean the throttle body plate since carbon build up can cause poor tickover The ignition coil pack is a known failure on some cars so could be suspect - check its connections where it contacts the spark plug tops for any corrosion.

Welcome to the forum. Can you hear the pump in the bottle running ? If yes, then the bottle/pump connection may be blocked and need cleaning. If no, then the pump fuse may need replacing - the handbook will say which one. If it is not the fuse then maybe the pump has failed or possibly the wiring/connector. I do not know which model you have, but Citroen often use one pump for the front and rear washers but it runs in opposite directions for each case.

If the C5 1.6 hdi saloon kerb weight is about 1500 kg and the Picasso about 1300 kg, then if the engines have the same efficiency, the energy needed for the C5 will be about 15/13, or 15% more than the Picasso plus adjustments for drag, etc. The 1.6 hdi peak torque is given in the sales brochure at 1750 rpm, so with a diesel there is probably not much point in revving the engine too much above this to make good progress.

A Citroen dealer will sell them, the part no. may be 904434 but you should check using your car VIN. All 4 doors have the same part no. A search gave this on ebay, £3.99 for 2 pins http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-SYNERGIE-XSARA-DISPATCH-DOOR-HINGE-PINS-X-2-904434-/360736223990

As a reminder, the car is a 2003 1.4 petrol Desire model. This does not sound right. Possibly it has a replacement pattern exhaust or the one on it has a leak or maybe there is another problem. I replaced the exhaust on our 2003 1.4 petrol with one from Eurocarparts, Klarius make, and that resonated on tickover and about 2500 rpm. It did not improve with time either. Another member also had a similar problem with a pattern exhaust on a diesel. But the Klarius one was about £100 vs the Citroen one at about £300, however, it spoilt the car. As well as the exhaust, you could check the engine air inlet ducting for the noise with the bonnet up and revving the engine, there may be an air leak or the air filter may have a problem. Also check the engine mountings in case one is causing the vibration.

According to Citroen's procedures, you undo the 2 nuts at the top (5 Nm), tilt the tank on its side and then unclip 2 pipes underneath and remove the tank. It suggests the pipe clips should be replaced. When you refill the tank, the fluid level should be checked with the suspension on the low position and it should be between the lowest and next lowest ridges in the tank filler neck strainer. Once topped up, take the suspension to max height, then lowest and then turn steering lock to lock , stop the engine and then check the level again whilst still in the lowest position. In the procedures for topping up the tank it says to use a Lexia to depressurise the suspension so the car goes to the forced low position for checking the fluid level. There is also this comment: CAUTION : If raising the vehicle on a lift, wheels hanging, remove the cap of the LDS fluid reservoir. Refit the cap of the LDS fluid reservoir, once you have lowered the vehicle. I suspect the dealer will need to order a tank, they tend to only stock frequently used items. There are 2 different tanks depending on the car RPO number with RPO 12030 to 12151 having a different one (4009S4) to numbers before and after (4009V8). You will also need some LDS fluid, the total system is 5.3 litres, but how much is in the tank I could not find.

This topic on ride height measurement may help http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/14396-ride-height-measurement/

Has it had the exhaust particulate filter (dpf) removed, since the emissions test is for smoke and with the dpf there should not be any ? From the MOT testers manual, reasons for failure on emissions are 3. After 6 free accelerations, the mean of the last 3 smoke levels is: a. for vehicles first used on or after 1 July 2008, more than 1.5m-1 for both turbocharged and non-turbocharged engines b. for vehicles first used before 1 July 2008: - for a non-turbocharged engine, more than 2.50m-1 - for turbocharged engines more than 3.00m-1. 4. Exhaust emits excessive smoke or vapour of any colour to an extent likely to obscure the vision of other road users. Note: The criterion is density and not volume of smoke. The description ‘dense smoke’ includes smoke or vapour which largely obscures vision.

Welcome to the forum. I replaced the timing belt on our 1.4 petrol a few years ago and the hole for the flywheel locking pin (there is not one for the crankshaft pulley) is at the lower end on the front of the engine block, a bit behind and to the gearbox side of the oil filter and takes a 6mm pin. The webbing on the block makes it a bit awkward to fit, I used a 6mm rod which once bent to shape worked well - the straight bit to go into the hole is 50mm long and the rest of the rod was shaped so it could be maneouvred from above. The camshaft sprocket was locked using an 8mm bolt (Haynes says 10mm) through it and in to the hole in the cylinder head.

Welcome to the forum. I would check the old relay to see if it was faulty. Also try the spare key in case it is a key problem and the immobilser not recognising it. Check all the fuses in the engine fuse box, not just the fuel pump one since others also have an effect on it. A wiring diagram in the RTA French manual for the C4 1.6 petrol shows 2 relays R1 and R2 in the engine fusebox that have an impact on the fuel pump so the second (R1) should also be checked. If it is an immobiliser problem it may just need the transponder replacing or checking. It is located on the ignition key lock and does not cost much.

You can just imagine the fuel economy test, strip everything out of the car, driver (if one is needed) kneeling on the carpetless floor, no spare in the boot, all seams taped over to reduce drag, nothing electrical on, heated booth, may be a tail wind if allowed, skinny tyres. Then when you buy one with all the essential extras, lucky to get 45 mpg or about 160g CO2/km.

Something to think about, the Grand C4 is a tall car, simple roof bar/bike racks may need you to stand on a ladder to fit a bike on, but I think there may be some that pivot the bike up on to the roof. This one from Halfords is £19.99 to carry one bike http://www.halfords.com/camping-car-seats/bike-racks-cycle-carriers/bike-racks-cycle-carriers/halfords-value-roof-mount-cycle-carrier Some more here http://www.roofbox.co.uk/bike-carriers/bike-carriers-racks-range.php?gclid=CKvhhdznzL8CFc3HtAodzyMABg If you search roof bike carrier on Amazon there are some even cheaper.

Looks as if you have found the cause of the problem. The eolys fluid is needed to allow the dpf to work by reducing the temperature needed to burn off the soot. Without it the dpf will quickly block up. You could also try removing the dpf and jet washing it to remove as much soot as possible to help once the eolys is topped up. Our C5 has a dpf and inside the tailpipe is clean with no sign of any black soot, just shiny metal.

If you want to use the old drive shaft, the ball bearing should go back in to the cv joint if the ball cage is turned at a more than normal angle. To do this the gaiter will need to be removed from the joint and slid up the driveshaft and you can then fit the shaft back in to the cv joint. New clips or tie wraps will probably be needed to fasten the gaiter at each end.

Welcome to the forum. How old is the car and which model ? It appears the battery is flat and unless the RAC started by pushing or towing the car, they used their own battery to start it. If you have a volt meter, check the battery voltage - it should be 12.5 to 12.7 volts if charged, but if much less than this it will not be able to turn over the starter motor fast enough to start the engine. You need to charge the battery and then get the engine running and check the voltage - it should be about 14.4 volts, but if much lower then the car is not charging the battery and this needs to be checked. If the battery can not be charged up then it may need replacing. You may find the RAC will not attend again for the same fault but I would have expected they would have said what they thought was wrong with the car. With a flat battery, at best when trying to start, you may hear a click of the solenoid on the starter motor. The economy mode will not clear until the engine runs again.

This is posted for our new member Bill610 and copied from his message: Hi from County Durham !! Awaiting delivery ( next week ) of my brand spanking new unbelievably gorgeous Grand C4 Picasso 1.6e HDi Airdream Exclusive Plus in black - and as I have 10 grandchildren, I will be needing the biggest, baddest roofbox known to man. It will need to take at least 2 folded buggies, plus other baby paraphernalia ( and possibly the odd child, depending on how often they ask "Are we there yet?" ) However, after stumping up the deposit for the car, I am seriously light in the wallet ... Can anyone suggest one, new or used, which will suit without forcing me to sell one of my kids?? ;)