paul.h

The Lexia can do up to 10 mm suspension, greater is done by altering the height adjuster. Using the Lexia will involve following the instructions on it (I do not have a Lexia so can not add any more). The procedure for the adjuster is not in Haynes but is in the Citroen Service box manual. It is possible to post bits from this but the diagrams will not copy to post on-line.

You may find some problems with your list of to dos, so I would post on here to benefit from others experiences. Replacing the stereo can lead to problems (such as central radio display and steering wheel radio controls not working), so can installing a phone if you plan to do this. Lowering the car is not straight forward and would need the height sensors adjusting on the anti roll bars if more than a few mm (the Lexia should do small adjustments). The car should automatically lower above about 60 mph. I noticed on the Easy Diagnostics site they sell the Citroen Service box manual for about £29 (which could be more than others on such as ebay).

If you remove the cabin pollen filter (via passenger footwell) you can see the way further in to the cabin is blocked by the air con evaporator and heater matrix before the flaps are reached. So any rats that block the flaps would have to get in through the vents in the cabin.

Welcome to the forum. You may have a few separate problems to sort out and the lpg conversion might have something to do with the anti pollution message to complicate things. What is the lambada sensor light ? If you mean the engine management fault light (engine symbol) there will be a fault code stored which can be read using a code reader to give you an idea of what is wrong. In fact it may be worthwhile to have a diagnostic check for the engine problems and the abs problem - this could cost less than replacing lots of parts hoping to guess the fault. Ideally a Lexia should be used and there are some members able to help others with this - see separate topic on the C5 Technical section, Diagnostic Help. I would not touch the ecu since the faults mentioned do not suggest anything wrong with it and it might have been programmed for the lpg conversion. The front end lowering when you stop is not normal unless possibly you have just got out of the car. It could be a height sensor is a bit seized and taking the suspension up and down a few times can help. The height sensors are fastened to the front and rear anti roll bars, approx in the middle, and a spray with wd40 can help - if you go under the car use axle stands since if the height sensors are touched the car can drop to a very low level (or use a ramp).

With the motor removed, it may be possible to use a small flat blade screwdriver or a torx bit in the end of the flap to turn it, rather than dismantling the motor spindle.

Thanks for the feedback. Which kit you have installed ?

Welcome to the forum. This is most likely the motor which adjusts the warm air flap to the passenger side needs replacing. A few years ago these were about £60 and can be accessed from the passenger footwell with a bit of a struggle.

The Haynes manual says to remove the headlining all the fittings such as grab handles and sunroof need to be removed first and that it is stuck to the roof with double sided tape. Once you get access to the pipes try blowing down them in case they are blocked. If you had a mark 1 C5 these are known for water in the driver's footwell due to a design fault which lets rain collect in the cabin air intake and run down the inside of the bulkhead. This can be sorted if anyone has this problem.

The Haynes manual explains how to adjust the gear change cables but it needs a special tool to set the gear lever in the correct position, either made to the dimensions shown in Haynes or purchased.

Check in your car handbook for the fuse lists but in the Haynes manual it has in the engine fuse box, fuse F18 40 amp as heater blower. So check this first (I am surprised your mechanic did not do this). If the fuse is ok, check the fan electrical connector for a 12 volt supply and earth (the Haynes wiring diagram shows it has 2 wires, 12 volts positive and the earth) when it is switched on and then if this is ok the fan most likely needs replacing.

Welcome to the forum. Many years ago I fit a sound proofing kit to a car which was mostly thick felt with a self adhesive backing to go under the carpet, under the bonnet and some bitumen sticky pads to go inside the doors. Some of this felt may help you if stuck to the van sides. It was similar to this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-underfelt-soundproofing-sound-deadening-underlay-LB-/180579062315?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 There is also some good proofing here but it could prove expensive. http://www.noisekiller.co.uk/materials.asp#NK012

Welcome to the forum. Sorry I can not help but I have moved your post into a subforum since ones outside of one do not show after a few days and the post then becomes difficult to find.

Welcome to the forum. Rather than remove all the boot lid trim, just remove the inside covers over the 2 rear lights and then pull off the electrical connectors. Probably 3 wires to each - an earth wire (possibly green), a wire for the side light and one for the reversing light. Use a meter to see which have 12 volts when the lights are on.

It may be designed this way to minimise emissions but it will be worthwhile checking for any air leaks in the piping and small hoses, checking the air filter is clean and cleaning inside the throttle body and plate to remove any carbon build up. If it has a cable between the accelerator pedal and throttle, make sure it is free to move and possibly have a slight bit of free play at the end. If you have a Haynes manual it should explain how to do this, possibly under replacement of the cable (if it has one).

Probably the best way to find out what is wrong, trying to diagnose noises accurately over the internet is not easy. Please let us know what happens.

That is correct. Often the front pressure is the same for unloaded and loaded and I tend to use the middle pressure for the rears then no need to keep changing it if a few passengers get in. Also allows for the pressure to drop slightly as the air gradually leaks out or for the weather to cool down. If your pressure gauge only shows to the nearest psi then for 2.1 bar use 31 psi since 30 would be slightly low.

Possibly the rear brakes need a clean if it happens just after using the brakes or handbrake and the brake shoes are sticking or there is a lot of brake dust in the drum. The motorway trip would not make a difference though and would happen most of the time after using the brakes. Does this happen when you go over a bump which may suggest a suspension problem ? You should still have warranty cover if the car was from a Citroen dealer - their approved used warranty is for 12 months so should cover a fault apart from parts that wear such as brake pads/shoes.

You should use the info from the door pillar sticker which is specific to your car and tyres. From memory, on our C3 it works out at 35 to 36 psi front and rear although the rear has a range but I prefer to keep it towards the higher end. As a reminder I have written the pressures on the footpump box in psi and did use a felt tip pen on the sticker but this came off after some time. To convert bar to psi multiply the bar by 14.5 eg 2.3 bar is 33.5 psi, 2.4 bar is 35 psi, 2.5 bar is 36.5 psi. The pressures should be checked before using the car which would warm up the tyres and raise the pressure a bit.

An internet search came up with this which may help a bit https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=standard+wheelchair+dimensions&hl=en-GB&rlz=1T4DKUK_enGB242GB242&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=7BsGU-GUJemv7AaWj4HICQ&ved=0CEoQsAQ&biw=1193&bih=822 Perhaps your friend could measure the height, depth and width of the chair whilst still using it and maybe guess how much the width reduces when folded.

Welcome to the forum. I would ask your friend to measure the wheelchair and then you could see if it will fit.

Welcome to the forum. Before touching the height sensors it may be worth taking the suspension up and down a few times in case the height sensors are a bit seized and maybe trying something like wd40 on them (as already mentioned, use axle stands before going under the car. Note the height should be raised to max before using a jack to avoid possible suspension problems.). If this does not help let us know. Check for any suspension fluid leaks on all the front/rear struts but a slight smear on the fronts is normal. Small height adjustments are done using the Lexia, larger ones by adjusting the sensors. It is worth getting the Haynes manual but it does not cover the 2.2 hdi engine. There is French RTA manual for the C5 which covers this engine (from Amazon) and you can also get the Citroen service box manuals from such as ebay to put on your computer. If you register on the service.citroen site you can see the parts diagrams as a free service but also purchase time to look at the Citroen manuals. Register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club. As a quick check on the timing belt, the top cover on it can be undone a bit so you can see it and if it looks in good condition but if it has not yet been replaced it should be done, then no need to worry about it whilst you have the car. Replacement is usually distance covered or 10 years and the RTA manual it gives 100k miles but I would check your own Service/maintenance/warranty book that came with the car. If it had been serviced at a Citroen dealer they will have records on their computer system on the servicing and work done. The anti freeze recommended is Glysantin G33 which your dealer sells at a similar price to elsewhere - however, flush out all the old stuff first since when I replaced it on our C3 some grease appeared in the expansion tank, possibly due to the anti freeze being a bit different and the old not being fully flushed out. Something you need to check is if the exhaust particulate filter (dpf) has been serviced - should be eolys fluid top up and filter replacement at about 70k miles. The interval will again be in your service book. If the dpf has been removed this is now a MOT failure and also possibly no insurance cover.

The electronic handbrake is only for the exclusive, the lower cost models use a normal lever.

To do a proper mpg check you could do with filling the fuel tank (but approx £90), noting the mileage, do a few hundred miles and then do a refill again. Checking only over about 7 litres will not be accurate enough. Even resetting the onboard mpg display (hold in the button on the end of the wiper stalk) over a short distance may not be too accurate but would be better than using the fuel gauge. As a quick check you could see if the wheels spin freely so the brakes are not seized.

There is a good article on this in the March 2014 Car Mechanics. The need to keep the dpf in good working order is part of a European Directive 2010/48/EU which the UK government is obliged to enforce. Previously the UK had decided not to implement the directive but this has been raised in Parliament several times until VOSA stated in December 2013 the dpf check would become part of the MOT from February 2014. Car Mechanics contacted insurance companies and the Direct Line group stated they would decline insurance where a dpf had been removed and the Association of British Insurers said motorists would need to consider the consequences of not holding valid insurance where the dpf had been removed.

Welcome to the forum and for your help.