paul.h

Welcome to the forum. Did replacing the crank sensor fix your problem, its failure symptoms include cutting out when warmed up but then starting again only when the engine has cooled ? Crank sensor failure does not always give an engine management fault light and code.

Welcome to the forum. This is just guesswork, but maybe you could experiment on one door. If the vibration was not there before you could try without the speaker cover. If this does not help then you may have to take the door card apart and see what is loose and if it can be fastened.

The egr valve is located at the back of the cylinder head (part no. 1628 XP). There is a picture of one here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Genuine-EGR-Valve-Peugeot-807-Citroen-C8-2-0-2-2-Hdi-1628XP-/141028383493 On the eurocarparts site under engine management switches it is shown as a Pierburg egr valve and is £119. However, it may just need a good clean or a vacuum pipe fixing, if it is the cause of the problems. It has a dome vacuum actuator on top and a water cooled pipe fastened to it. Citroen's procedures are to remove it from under the engine as follows and takes about 3 hours to replace, (but this is the same time listed as for the 138 bhp engine which has an electrical actuator and many more parts to be removed and the coolant to be drained - so could take a lot less): 1. RemovingN.B. : The EGR valve is removed from underneath the vehicle. Remove :The screen under the drive trainThe 2 nuts holding the egr valve onThe collar connecting it to the water cooled pipe heat exchangerThe nut below the water cooled pipe holding it to the engine blockUncouple the vacuum pipe to the top of the dome.Move aside the heat exchanger, without opening the cooling circuit.Remove the EGR valve. 2. RefittingAlways replace :The seal of the EGR valveThe nut holding the water cooled pipe to the blockProceed in the reverse order to removal.Tighten :The studs : to 6 NmThe 2 egr nuts : to 10 NmThe collar : to 15 NmThe pipe nut : to 30 Nm

Is it 110 or 138 bhp ?

Which engine, model year and bhp is it ?

I always make a point of using a torque wrench after somebody else has done up the wheels.

A bit drastic, did you try the dealer and what about the 2 front wheels ? If you want to use this method get some decent drill bits up to the bolt thread diameter and have a go yourself.

Egr valve problems can give black smoke, especially once the engine is warm since until then the egr valve should not be working. Have a look at this C5 egr problem http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20999-c5-hdi-irratic-loss-of-power-when-engine-hot/ Before replacing the egr valve check its electrical connector or hose connection to the actuator in case this is at fault such as a poor connection or pin hole. Also check the inlet air pipes/ducting to the engine in case it is leaking or loose and any electrical and hose connections to any actuators. A blocked fuel filter can also give loss of power. There is a topic on dpfs on the General section - the MOT has just been changed to include a check for the dpf (and catalyst) and if they are missing the car will fail the MOT. If the casing is still in place though it may fool the tester in to thinking it is still there. To remove the diesel additive message, it will probably need to be plugged in to a Lexia to reset the additive counter, even if you have put some additive in.

Sometimes when the air con is regassed a dye will be put in that shows a leak under UV light so might be worth seeing if this has been done. On the mark 1 C3 a known leak point is where a pipe joins the condenser matrix at the front of the car and can be seen through gaps in the radiator grill - maybe the C5 is similar. The pipe corrodes and pin holes.

For the 5 speed gearbox, the special tool locks the gear lever in position whilst the cables are fastened at the lever end, then it is removed and the cables fastened at the gearbox end. Its part no. is 0317-AU, gear selection lever positioning gauge. Without this tool you could have a look at where the cables join the gearbox, check for wear at this end and see if the gearbox levers move the same amount for 1st, 3rd and 5th gears. It may pay to ask your Citroen dealer for advice and cost to adjust, but expect around 1 hour labour.

Based on your previous posts I am guessing your car is a diesel C3 year 2010 and manual gearbox. I do not know the mileage, whether 1.4 or 1.6 hdi or 5 or 6 forward gears. It sounds as if there is a problem that needs sorting before there are more expensive problems caused inside the gearbox, such as wear of a synchromesh or gear. Probably it just needs an adjustment of the gearchange cables. The C3 has a cable gear change that can be adjusted but a few special tools are needed. It is possible the cables have stretched or the ball joints might wear. It is also possible there is wear inside the gear lever housing, the gearbox, or the clutch is not fully disengaging - try bleeding the master and slave cylinders, which should be done anyway when the brake fluid is changed every 2 years. Wear in the gearbox could be a synchromesh or a gear shaft bearing - I had a Saab 900 on about 150k miles that jumped out of gear and when I replaced the bearings they had been allowing one of the shafts to move about 6mm. Bearing wear may be heard as a whine that varies with revs. Synchromesh wear usually lets the gears grind as the gear lever is used to select them.

VOSA has recently issued a special MOT note saying the MOT test will include a check for the presence of the dpf and catalyst. If they were fitted as standard and are missing then the car will fail the MOT - no mention of emission standards when the car was built or the smoke test. The wording is as follows: ----------------------------- Item 1: Presence of Catalysts and Particulate Filters on Diesel Powered Vehicles On 16 February 2014 Section 7.1 of the inspection manual will be amended to include a check for the presence of catalysts and particulate filters on diesel powered vehicles. Any vehicle where a catalytic converter or particulate filter is missing where one was fitted as standard will fail the test. ----------------------------------------------- I have started a General note to try to get this info to all members of the forum, not just ones who read the C5 section. An important aspect will be a missing dpf means a car would not be up to MOT standard and this could mean the car insurance is not valid.

The MOT has been changed to include a check that the exhaust catalyst and diesel particulate filter (dpf) are present if they were installed as standard when the car was built. If they are missing the car will fail the MOT. There is no mention about the engine having to meet any emission standards relevant when the car was built or meeting the smoke test, only if they were installed when the car was made. The wording in a recent VOSA MOT Special Note is as follows: ------------------------------------------- Item 1: Presence of Catalysts and Particulate Filters on Diesel Powered Vehicles On 16 February 2014 Section 7.1 of the inspection manual will be amended to include a check for the presence of catalysts and particulate filters on diesel powered vehicles. Any vehicle where a catalytic converter or particulate filter is missing where one was fitted as standard will fail the test. -------------------------------------------- Many have had the dpf removed or knocked through when it has been giving problems or it was due for replacement. In these cases the dpf and its eolys system will need to be refitted and if the software was modified it will need to be reverted back. On an old car it may make the car worthless so beware of cheap diesels for sale where the dpf may have been removed. This also raises other problems, with a dpf removed the car could not be classed as up to MOT standard and any insurance may no longer be valid.

Citroen's procedures show a 3 leg puller to pull off the hub and then to pull off the inner bearing shell which may be left behind on the axle. Then they show a guide tool to push the hub inner bearing/hub unit back on to the axle - however, you may not need this if the axle is cleaned up and greased a bit but if so a tube may do against the inner bearing shell and tapped with a hammer. The hub nut is tightened to 380 Nm and then locked - most torque wrenches do not go this high so it will be tight to undo (best done with all 4 wheels on the ground and the handbrake and brakes on - so the nut should be slackened early on in the job before touching the brakes, despite what is suggested in the Citroen procedure) and then to do up you may need to hire or buy a high range wrench. The hub nut might need a 28 mm socket but I am not sure, but it must be replaced since it is peened over to lock in place so you can check the size of the new one (possibly dealer only supply). The hub bearing cap also will need replacing (possibly dealer only supply) since to remove it it probably will get damaged. The caliper retaining bolts might need a torx bit (do not know the size) and the separate caliper removal procedures suggest these should be renewed. The Citroen procedure is below with some comments in italics: 2. RemovingPlace the vehicle on a lift with rear wheels suspended (just jack up the relevant corner and use an axle stand, chock the other rear wheel, remove the wheel, remove the hub bearing cap, refit the wheel if it has a hole in the middle, lower the car back down, slacken the hub nut, then jack up again, use an axle stand, chock the other rear wheel and remove the wheel).Remove :The rear wheelThe brake caliper (partly) (undo the caliper bracket bolts and move the caliper to one side. It may need the handbrake cable disconnecting)The brake discThe protection cap from the hubThe hub nutRemove the rear bearing-hub assembly using a 3 leg puller.Remove the bearing cage left on the axle using the puller. 3. RefittingESSENTIAL : The bearing-hub is a single assembly and must therefore be totally replaced after removal.Clean the stub axle before refitting. Screw the guide sleeve tool onto the stub axle.Fit a new hub bearing to the guide sleeve and tighten the tool thrust ring until the hub bearing is against its stop.Remove the tools. Fit a new hub nut , Face and threads greased.Tighten the nut to 380 Nm Lock the nut (it may need the wheel fitting and the car lowering to the ground at this high torque. Lock the nut by peening over into the axle cut out).Refit : A new cap The brake disc (clean its hub contact face to make sure it seats flat and ideally the disc runout should be checked) The brake caliper The rear wheel Tightening torques : Wheel bolts : 100 NmHub nut : 380 NmBrake disc fixing screw : 15 NmScrew for fixing brake caliper : 95 Nm

The original poster has not been back since 22nd November 2013 so unfortunately we do not know what happened with this and no point wasting any more time on the topic.

This is for a mark 1 C3: 1. RemarksWhen adding or replacing a vehicle key, it is necessary to perform the following operations :Key programming procedureSynchronisation of HF PLIP remote controlsN.B. : The vehicle keys are allocated to a single BSI.CAUTION : Initialising a new key will require all the keys to be initialised.2. Diagnostic tools"LEXIA 4171-T" station."PROXIA 4165-T" station.3. Registering the keys3.1. Initialisation procedure using the "LEXIA" diagnostic toolMake the following selections in the diagnostic tool :"DIAGNOSIS"Select the vehicle"GLOBAL TEST""BSI ECU""INITIALISATION""KEY INITIALISATION"Follow the instructions given in the diagnostic tool.3.2. Initialisation procedure using the " PROXIA" diagnostic toolMake the following selections in the diagnostic tool :"DIAGNOSIS"Select the vehicle"BSI""LOGO F5""INITIALISATION""INITIALISATION OF THE KEYS"Follow the instructions given in the diagnostic tool.N.B. : The "PARAMETER MEASURES" menu can be used to check the number of keys initialised . The number of keys initialised indicates the total number of vehicle keys. The number of HF PLIPS initialised indicates the number of HF keys initialised.4. Synchronisation of HF PLIP remote controlsN.B. : When replacing the batteries of an HF PLIP remote control, it is necessary to resynchronise the remote control.Perform the following operations :Put the HF key to be synchronised in position "ignition +"Within the next 10 seconds, press one of the HF key buttonsRelease the HF key buttonThe ignition key HF PLIP is synchronised.N.B. : Perform these operations for the other keys equipped with HF remote control.Carry out a locking / unlocking test of the vehicle’s doors and tailgate.N.B. : If the locking / unlocking test of the doors and tailgate is not correct, restart the synchronisations of all the ignition keys equipped with HF PLIPS.

Also worth noting some of the different types of additive can not be mixed. Modification : Particle filter additive CAUTION : This bulletin concerns only the filling of the rigid reservoir. This bulletin does not concern the replacement of soft pouches. This development bulletin describes the changes to the factory-fitted particle filter additives and their impact on after-sales maintenance operations. 1. The new 3rd generation particle filter additives Factory-fitted application between RPO 12110 and 12166 (According to vehicle). Suppliers and brands : RHODIA : EOLYS POWERFLEX INFINEUM : F7995 2. Previous type of additive Additive DPX 42 is still available and must be used for all servicing on vehicles that have DPX 42. When stocks of additive EOLYS 176 run out, it will be replaced by the 3rd generation additives. N.B. : From 15/07/2010 onwards: Additive EOLYS 176 will no longer be available to order from Replacement Parts. 3. Compatibility between additives Additive DPX42 cannot be mixed with any other additive. Additive EOLYS 176 can be mixed with additives EOLYS POWERFLEX and INFINEUM F7995. Additives EOLYS POWERFLEX and INFINEUM F7995 cannot be mixed with each other. N.B. : As the additive concentrations between EOLYS 176 and the two new additives are identical, there is no impact on the operating calibrations of the engine ECU. CAUTION : It is not permissible to mix additives INFINEUM F7995 and Rhodia EOLYS POWERFLEX with each other. 4. Filling or topping up with additive 4.1. Identifying the type of additive present in the vehicle CAUTION : Prior to any operation on the additive reservoir, it is necessary to identify the type of additive present in the vehicle. Identification by RPO no. RPO no. / Vehicle / Additive present Prior to RPO No. 9492 / All types / DPX 42 Between 9492 and 12110 or 12166 depending on version / All types / EOLYS 176 From RPO number 12 116 / C6 / INFINEUM F7995 From RPO number 12 125 / C5 (X7) / INFINEUM F7995 From RPO number 12 152 / C8, DISPATCH / EOLYS POWERFLEX From RPO number 12 166 / C4, CITROËN C4 PICASSO, BERLINGO (B9) / EOLYS POWERFLEX CAUTION : The only clue is the colour of the clickfit union on the filler interface.. Identification by the colour of the click-on union on the filler interface Colour of the clickfit Type of additive Blue clickfit : EOLYS POWERFLEX Green clickfit : EOLYS 176 or INFINIEUM F7995, (Depending on the vehicle’s date of production) 4.2. Rules for choice of additive for after-sales operations N.B. : These rules only concern the filling of rigid reservoirs with particle filter additive. Conversion chart for filling or topping-up operations Additive present in vehicle / Colour of clickfit on filler / Additive to be used in all operations DPX 42 / / DPX 42 EOLYS 176 / Green clickfit / EOLYS 176 - INFINEUM F7995 INFINEUM F7995 / Green clickfit / INFINEUM F7995 EOLYS POWERFLEX / Blue clickfit / EOLYS POWERFLEX 5. Identification and packaging of the particle filter additives Type of additive / Cap colour in additive kit / part no PR / Packaging EOLYS DPX 42 / White / 9979.95 - 9736.65 / 5 - 1 litre EOLYS 176 / Green / 9736.86 - 9736.85 / 3 - 1 litre INFINEUM F7995 / Green / 9736.97 - 9736.98 / 3 - 1 litre EOLYS POWER FLEX / Light blue / 9736 A1 - 9736 A0 / 3 - 1 litre N.B. : For any maintenance operation requiring filling of the rigid additive reservoir, it is essential to refer to the conversion chart for the colour coding between the clickfit union on the rigid reservoir filler interface and the cap colour in the 3rd generation additive kit. 6. Recommendations/precautions CAUTION : It is not permissible to mix additives INFINEUM F7995 and Rhodia EOLYS POWERFLEX with each other. If the additives should be reversed, the filter becomes clogged with particles. Use these products exclusively ; any other product causes a mmalfunction of the filtration system. Use clean additive only as any particles risk causing the additive injector to seize. N.B. : The soft additive pouches have a Part No. and must be replaced with respect to that Part No..

Mark 2 C5, amount used in 75k miles should be - DV6TED4 engine 2.1 litres - DW10BTED4 engine 2.6 litres - DW12TED4 engine 2.5 litres.

This is from the Citroen procedures. The pressure is measured on a gauge connected by fitting an adaptor between the turbo outlet pressure sensor and the ducting. Connect the diagnostic equipment to the vehicle’s diagnostic socket.Place the diagnostic tool in parameter measures.Start the engine.Engine speed (rpm) / Turbocharger pressure ( bar)2500 rpm / 0,2 ± 0,1 bar 4000 rpm / 0,7 ± 0,1 barN.B. : If there is a significant difference in the pressure read on the diagnostic tool and on the pressure gauge, replace the turbocharging pressure sensor.If the pressure taken in the circuit is lower than the value given, check the following components :The turbocharger air inlet and outlet ductsThe turbocharging air cooler inlet and outlet air ductsThe turbocharging air coolerThe turbochargerIf the pressure taken in the circuit (maximum 1 bar) is higher than the value given, check the turbocharger regulation system .

Thankyou for taking the time for such a good and detailed write up. If the reverse light switch is like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-RELAY-REVERSE-LIGHT-SWITCH-NEW-/280736866282 then maybe the plunger has worn down so it can not be pushed in far enough to make its internal electrical connection. If not the switch then maybe inside the gearbox, where the plunger contacts, has worn down. If it has a sealing washer then try fitting without so the plunger goes in further or try cutting a bit off the face of the nut as a test. You could also measure the depth in the gearbox the plunger has to go with the gear lever in reverse.

Wear on Michelins seems to vary, possibly as a function of driving style/journey type (short or long, motorway or lanes), or maybe how soft the rubber is on the original tyres. However, we have always had a high mileage before needing to replace them, about twice that of previous makes we used on other cars such as Dunlop and Pirelli. Worst wear I had was on some India tyres on a Maxi, only 5k miles and down to the cloth. So in our case, the higher cost pays back. Our first C5 about 30k miles wore them down, our current mark 2 C5 replaced about 13k miles when I got the car due to side wall cracking rather than wear. Our Picasso sold about 38k miles and 1 tyre replaced due to a puncture. Our first C4 the fronts lasted about 30k miles, our current C4 is on 35k miles and still has 3½mm tread on the fronts. Our first C3 the tyres were replaced at about 35k miles due to cracking. Our latest C3 has Bridgestones and at 14k miles they are on 3mm tread so from approx 7mm new will need replacing in a couple of thousand miles.

Just a thought, if the wd40 conducts electricity at all and it is sprayed on a connector, then there may be a remote chance of it affecting the airbags. It may be better to not use it.

Looking in a 2010 and a 2013 C5 brochure, the standard wheel size has been reduced to 16 inch for all but the exclusive when in the 2010 models the 16 inch was for the 1.6 hdi. Maybe cost cutting or part of measures to reduce noise. The mark 1 and 2 C5 uses 16 inch wheels as standard.

Looks as if this may become a common problem on the C5 tourer. It is a problem on the C4 so maybe Citroen still need to learn a few things. I have now added it to the growing list of Common Problems.

So much for Haynes. I wonder if a dealer/garage would only charge for 10 minutes or for a bumper removal ? How did you find which sensor was at fault or did you just swap one until they worked ?