paul.h

I hope you have managed to finish this job by now without too much bother and unless you have a nice heated garage it is not the best time of year for working on a car. By the lack of replies you may be one of few (if any) members to do a C5 clutch change. If you have time, would you mind posting a few lines on how you got on and anything unusual that cropped up ?

If you want to see the eolys system parts they are under engine/air and fuel supply/fuel tank fuel gauge. The vin you have given is a digit short, there should be 17 - if a 7 is added after the HRH it comes up with a C5 which fits your description but with an eolys system shown under fuel tank fuel gauge. The eolys tank is part 9 - additional fuel fuel additive.

Citroen main dealer Rigbyes of Chorley have had a couple of recommendations - see http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/21033-c5-16hdi-flat-spot/?do=findComment&comment=76240

It may be worth you doing some extra checks on the eolys fluid. It is in a small tank under the back of the car, also the fuel tank cap willl have a couple of magnets in it to tell the car when you fill up - if you remove the cap you will be able to see them. If not already done, check the parts diagrams using your vin on the service.citroen website - you will need to register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club. I thought the DW10TED4 engines on the mark 2 C5 were all 138 bhp.

You could try your Citroen dealer, they should be able to do an update/sell the cd.

With our last C3 (1.4 petrol) I would remove the top cover on the timing belt each year (only 2 bolts) and check the belt looked in good condition - then no need to wait x years/miles of worry that it may be about to fail. In the end I changed it at about 7 years and about 40k miles and it still looked in good condition.

Thanks for the feedback. So the culprit was the egr valve after all. However, it looks as if the dpf system may be starting to be giving problems, at about 74k miles it may be due for the filter replacing/cleaning and the eolys fluid topping up.

I have been able to log in without any problems. Maybe you need to register again. Some time ago though I did have the same problem and it went after some time - maybe a local update is being done or something that affects your account.

If Telford is not too far away French Diagnostic Services has a member recommendation http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/8773-citroen-specialist-in-telford-area/ . I have not used them so can not give any other recommendation. They have also listed their services in a post http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/8866-citroen-and-peugeot-specialist-telford-shropshire/ Do you have a problem that needs sorting or is it just for a service ?

Try this to see if it works http://service.citroen.com/do/logout

A quick look on the eurocarparts site, without your car reg, shows you may be able to get a clutch and dmf for a bit over £300 due to some special offers. If you decide to use eurocarparts, I have found that if you just go to their local branch the prices can be different to/more than the website, so a phone call may be worthwhile to check prices and if necessary use the site to click and collect. It is too late now, but the RAC will do recovery if you are not a member, or it is outside their conditions such as a crash recovery, and a couple of years ago it was about £75. Probably more though to cover 35 miles but less than the clutch replacement - hopefully the friend may chip in.

If you put the car reg in the eurocarparts website it will list the clutch parts and if it has a dmf. There was an article in Car Mechanics on clutch replacement on a C5, may have been a 2.2 hdi with a dmf, and it seemed a big job. If you look at the towing limit for the car on its V5C, you may find the BMW was above the cars limit and may have been illegal.

Did you have the same problem last winter ? You could also check the earth connections to the body and engine to make sure they are clean and the starter motor connections (if you can get to them). If the wiring between the battery and starter is damaged it is likely to have hot spots when trying to start the car.

My experience with diesels is as John. Diesels are more efficient engines than petrol so give out less heat and take a bit longer to warm up. So less goes into the coolant and our oil gauges on a mark 1 and 2 C5 have been slow to move. Maybe the latest C5 gauges are different. A code reader with live data on the temperature sensors is really needed to see what the actual values from the sensors are since the gauge values may be generated without a direct relation to the actual value. Having said this - there may be value in seeing if the coolant thermostat is opening too early by seeing if the radiator top hose warms up before the gauge reaches about normal. May be also check the oil level is not on the low side.

I think the programming for the injectors is not really a remap but telling the ecu the code that is marked on each injector. Not giving any paperwork for warranty work seems to be normal. On the few occasions I have had warranty work there were no receipts and the old parts were returned to Citroen - only if an extra was needed and you authorised it, was a receipt given for that, such as a worn mounting. The new parts also do not extend the warranty period - so if a new bit was fitted a week before the warranty expired, the new bit would only have a one week warranty.

I would like to wish everyone on the forum a happy new year and best wishes for the next 12 months. Thankyou everyone for your contributions, time given up and help that is freely offerred and hopefully has saved us a lot of bother and money as well as being of interest. One thing that would be nice for the new year is if members would feed back the outcome, no matter how long it takes to solve a problem. In this way the knowledge of the forum is increased and the time freely given up by members and moderators when trying to help others is not thought to be a waste of time. Often there is a single post asking for help and the original poster never comes back or there may be a long string of posts but no result at the end of it and sometimes not even a thankyou. This can only make members and moderators reluctant to potentialy waste their time. One big success on the forum is our administrator Gteuks prevention of spam. Early in the year we were getting several thousand spam posts a day at one point and now it may be only a few a week getting through, if that.

The RTA manual for the mark 3 C5 has been out for a few years. It is not currently in stock at Amazon UK but is at Amazon fr http://www.amazon.fr/Rta-B737-Citro%C3%ABn-Depuis-2008/dp/2726873758/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1388499998&sr=8-1&keywords=rta+c5+II The 2.0 hdi covered is the 138 and 140 hp, code RHR and RHF. It does not cover the 160 hp but what the difference is from the lower power engines I do not know off hand.

What power is the engine - the C5 had a 2.0 hdi 110 hp to mid 2004 which did not have a particulate filter, then mid 2004 it had a 2.0 hdi 138 hp engine with the filter. The C5 2.2 hdi always had a particulate filter. The temperature sensors may also be at fault. If you have a code reader that does live data this will show what the coolant and inlet air temperatures are - before the first start of the day, they should be close to the outside air temp. Does the glow plug light appear at all before starting - it may pay to turn the ignition key to the dash lit up position and then wait a few seconds before then starting the engine, to give the glow plugs a chance to work if they are needed. In your post you put the voltage as 12.03 volts, John thought you meant 12.3 volts but rightly pointed out it should be 12.7 volts for a charged battery. It may be better to measure the voltage across the battery terminals without the ignition on in case there are any losses/uses which may lead to a wrong value when considering if the battery needs replacing. Does the engine seem to turn over as fast as it does in summer ? If you can, give the battery a charge and then see if it makes a difference. However, do not just disconnect/reconnect the battery since this may lead to odd electrical problems. I have found the following has worked without problems - If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3). (I have moved your post in to the technical section since ones outside of a subforum do not show after a few days and may be hard to find.)

Easiest way to use it is to get your car in (vin or select it from the car pictures/engine/body), then find the part such as mechanical/engine/lubrication and then use the procedures tab. It will come up with a list and hopefully the one you are looking for will be there. After a bit of practise it will get easier. Some simple things are not always detailed. There is usually a list of relevant torque settings if not in the procedure. The service spanner removal is usually in the handbook and is something like - hold down a button on the speedo, switch on the ignition (but do not start the engine), the service miles will then count down to =0 and then release the button. I do not know which 1.6 hdi you have but the oil filter cover could be 25 Nm and the oil drain plug 34 Nm. From mechanical/engine assembly/repair procedures/tightening torques. Torque settings are always listed as daNm, times by 10 to get Nm. Your old PC may be slow due to lack of memory (RAM), it could pay to increase it for a few £10s. I think the recommended spec is 2.0 GHz processor, 512 Mb RAM.

I think the tax disc is of more benefit to the public than police and maybe parking attendants. I know somebody whose no. plates were stolen - only takes a few minutes so the ANPR system is easy to avoid. A few years ago somebody drove into the side of us on the M60. I saw the car crossing the lanes but had nowhere to go to get out of the way. Details were swapped on the hard shoulder but since nobody was injured the police were not called and damage was minimal. I took photos of the other car including the driver and once home I then noticed the tax disc on it was 6 months out of date and this was confirmed on the gov website - had I noticed at the time the police would have been called and the car crushed. I contacted the police but nothing came of it and the motorway cameras were not recording. The other driver's insurer did not own up to causing it and due to the lack of witnesses the insurers went 50/50. There was no claimed damage on the other car so the illegal driver got away with it, but I lost the excess and got a higher premium despite being a protected policy (% discount remains but due to a claim you are a higher risk with increased initial premium).

If it is round town driving then the smaller engine will use less fuel whilst stationary but on motorways the larger engine is likely to be better. These are mpg figures from the brochures for a C5 saloon as urban / extra urban / combined / CO2 g/km / 0-62 mph (secs). The maintenance costs of the 2.0 hdi may be lower than the 1.6 hdi - oil changes are 20k miles vs 12500 miles (or 2 years, but 1 year from about 2013) and especially if a new turbo is allowed for on the 1.6 hdi. January 2009 brochure 1.6 hdi 110 hp - 42.8 / 58.8 / 53.3 / 140 / 12.2 2.0 hdi 140 hp - 37.7 / 58.8 / 48.7 / 153 / 10.6 November 2009 brochure 1.6 hdi 110 hp - 42.8 / 61.4 / 53.3 / 140 / 12.2 2.0 hdi 160 hp - 40.4 / 58.9 / 50.4 / 147 / 9.1 November 2010 brochure 1.6 hdi 110 hp - 44.1 / 67.3 / 56.5 / 130 / 12.2 2.0 hdi 160 hp - 41.5 / 64.2 / 53.3 / 139 / 9.1 On the 1.6 hdi the max torque is quoted at 1750 rpm (2.0 hdi at 2000 rpm) - this probably must mean the turbo is working at this or lower rpm, so in your case not cutting in until 2000 rpm may indicate a problem.

I do not know if this helps but an old C5 brochure has the 1.6 hdi saloon 0-60 mph as 12.2 seconds. So not particularly quick, probably comparable to a 1.4 petrol C3. The car though is about 1500 kg. The Haynes manual for the 2001 to 2008 C5 says the 1.6 hdi turbo has a variable inlet nozzle to improve boost pressure at low engine speeds - maybe there could be something wrong with this - sticking ? See what other comments come back. Whilst it is still under warranty, if you have any concerns at all about the turbo it should be sorted since they do not seem to last long on the 1.6 hdi. Maybe ask at Rigbyes since they seem to know what they are doing from your last visit.

Welcome to the forum and thankyou for your post - looks like a good recommendation for Rigbyes as well.

This could turn in to a good topic. Here are the cars from my family with the general early theme of being cheap to buy and run: Vauxhall HC Viva 1159cc, Morris Marina 1300, Austin Maxi 1750, Fiat 127 900 and 1050, Austin Ambassador 1700, Datsun Cherry 1300, Saab 900i 2.0, Vauxhall Astra 1300, Saab 9000 2.0t, Saab 9-5 2.3t, Rover 214, Nissan Primera 1.6, Citroens - Xsara Picasso 2.0 hdi Desire, 2008 C4 1.6 hdi vtr+, 2011 C4 1.6 hdi vtr+, 2004 C5 2.2 hdi vtr, 2007 C5 2.2 hdi vtx estate, 2003 C3 1.4 sx, 2010 C3 1.4 vtr 95. Before these, also a Casal moped, Honda cd 175. On the early ones I soon learnt how to patch up bodywork, rust being usual on cars until the 1990s once a few years old. The worst for rust was the Cherry and justified buying a mig welder. The Citroens have all been lower mileage/years and have been the most reliable - the Saabs the worst and most expensive for parts.

I am sorry to hear that and hope you get a good result from the appeal.