paul.h

Welcome to the forum. I would check the bulbs have not blown first. You may be able to see by looking inside the headlights from outside, if not, remove a bulb to check.

It could be the electrics in the light unit have failed or maybe the wiring has broken such as at the body to door area. I replaced one last year on our 2007 C5 and it was about £50 so I would try the warranty route. Also it is not a 2 minute job to replace, it is in the spoiler at the top and this has to be removed to change it. (I will move your topic into the Technical subsection since ones outside a subsection do not show after a few days and can not be easily found.)

Welcome to the forum. Thanks for the information, our previous C5 had the solid wheels and when phoning for tyre prices I would ask if the tyre fitters had an adaptor, and as you say, not many do.

Your washer fix is a good one and saved removing the wheel arch liner to get to the pump. I will add it to the Technical subforum Common problems post. Probably best though to save it for the front washers since if the rear was done a hose joint may split and need to be found - I think there may be one in the rear roof.

If it is nothing rotating then if low down see if it is an exhaust joint, expands when hot and engine shakes a bit more if low revs - when making the noise push the tail pipe and see if it changes. The C8 is known for timing belt failures but I do not know if it applies to the petrol engines since ones reported on here have been diesels. Whilst yours is low mileage, at 7 years old it ought to be checked. You may be able to remove the top belt cover to have a look.

First it is worthwhile checking the bulb is correctly fitted and the light unit is also fitted correctly. According to the Haynes manual for the halogen bulbs (not xenon gas discharge ones) the headlight adjustment screws are on the back of the headlight units. It looks as if one is in the middle towards the top, the other will be to one side. It may take a screwdriver or an allen key but it does not say. Try half a turn one way to see which way it needs turning. Usually there are 2 screws, one does the height adjustment and the other the sideways adjustment. It pays to have the car on level ground and pointing at a wall a few yards back, preferrably as it is getting dark. The car should not be loaded up and have nobody sat in it. The dip beams pattern level part at the wall should be slightly lower than the lights on the car, with the point at which the pattern turns up directly in line with each light on the car or slightly to the left. If one light has been passed for the MOT use this as a guide for the other one. As for the MOT, whilst the car was being tested it would only have taken a couple of minutes for the tester to adjust it since it would already have been positioned at the testing unit. Is this all it failed on seems it seems a bit petty to not adjust it at the time ?

Since the motor works in one direction it is likely the switch is the problem. For a direct supply, just need wires from the battery or a cigarette lighter socket plug to the motor electrical connections. However, looking at the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual there seem to be more wires than needed to simply send the motor both ways, so it may not be straight forward to test. I managed to do this on a Picasso once when there was an electrical failure with a window down and also a temporary arrangement on a Saab when the switch failed (only needed the contacts cleaning). How did you fix the windscreen washer and has your serious suspension fault gone ?

Welcome to the forum. A few questions - - have you measured the battery voltage, since at first it sounds like a flat battery, even though it has been changed. Should be 12.5 to 12.7 volts without the engine running and about 14.4 volts when running. - when trying to start, where is the click noise coming from - is it the solenoid on the starter or elsewhere - when you have bump started it, does it continue to run normally - the diagnostic check, was this just a code reader check or did you use a dealer type Lexia - have you tried the spare key in case it is an immobiliser fault with the key There is now a Haynes manual for the C4 and in the fault finding section under engine fails to rotate when attempting to start it gives - battery terminal connections loose or corroded - battery discharged or faulty - broken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit - defective starter motor - starter pinion or flywheel/driveplate ring gear teeth loose or broken - engine earth strap broken or disconnected To this you could add - a problem with the ignition switch - a bad earth connection - a problem with the engine management/sensors - but if it runs normally once bump started this may not be the case, similarly the fuel system - check the fuses - Haynes lists in the engine fuse box fuse F8, 25 amp for the starter. Check your handbook to see if it is the same. The wiring diagram also shows a relay in the fusebox but I do not know if this can be changed. - to by-pass the starter circuit you could try a positive supply direct to the starter solenoid to see if the starter will turn (make sure the ignition key is not in the car and the gearbox is in neutral). - when trying to start the car you could check for a 12 volt supply to the starter solenoid.

Welcome to the forum. The C5 did not have a 1.9 hdi so I guess you mean a 2.0 hdi and then depending on its year could be 90 bhp, 110 bhp or 138 bhp. The 2.2 hdi again could be 136 bhp or 173 bhp. I do not know what damage has been done to your existing engine but you could consider repairing it. The higher mileage 2.2 hdi may also be worn out. The larger engine may well fit but there are all the ancilliaries to consider, different turbo, fuel pumps/systems, injectors, electrical systems, exhaust particle filters, the 2.2 hdi also has larger front brake discs and pads. Rather than trying to convert your car to a 2.2 hdi one, it may well be better and lower cost to find the right engine. There would also be the insurance aspects to consider, would your insurer cover you ? The Haynes manual does not cover the 2.2 hdi, alternative sources of information include the Citroen manuals which are available from such as ebay, for the mark 1 C5 136 bhp engine up to 2004 it is covered on the French RTA C5 manual available from such as Amazon. The Citroen parts diagrams can be seen on the service.citroen site, register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club.

If the door card is still removed, try a 12 volt supply to the motor and then reverse the supply to see if the motor goes in both directions (you may be able to take the supply from the switch by unplugging it). Then if it does, the problem is likely to be the switch which might just be worn internally or have dirty contacts and be able to be cleaned.

Thankyou for getting back to us and I am pleased you did not have to pay for the repairs. I have included this fault in the Common Problems post.

If it is from the engine, I think you will need to have a good listen with the bonnet up to try and pinpoint the area. Things that squeal tend to be rotating bits like pulleys on the drive belt and timing belt and possibly the clutch release bearing. Other rotating bits in the belt area are the water pump, alternator and air con compressor. You may also need to consider an air leak in a hose somewhere. If it only occurs when moving and is not from the engine, you may need to consider the brakes.

Welcome to the forum. It is recommended to keep up with engine oil/filter changes since the 1.6 hdi has a history of turbo failures. It will have a service recommendation of every year or 12500 miles if sooner where other size engines tend to be every 2 years or 20000 miles.

Welcome to the forum. (Note the following only applies to cars to RPO 09491, ones after this have different parts and procedures. Edited paul.h 17/11/2013) It is probably worthwhile obtaining the Haynes manual for your car and the following is from it. According to the Haynes manual (my copy is an old one covering 2000 to 2002 but is likely to still be correct, however, I would recommend you confirm this, copies are often available in libraries if you do not wish to purchase one) - 1st de-activate the airbag, there are 2 screws located at the rear of the steering wheel boss to undo (the wheel may need to be moved to access them). Then gently pull the air bag unit from the centre of the steering wheel. Carefully unclip the wiring connector from the air bag unit (use fingers only and pull the connector upward from the air bag unit). Where fitted, disconnect the additional earth lead from the air bag unit. Refitting is a reversal. Before removing the airbag it must be de-activated and again based on the Haynes manual - a) switch on ignition to ensure the airbag light comes on and goes off as normal switch off ignition c) remove ignition key d) switch off all electrical equipment e) disconnect the battery negative terminal (if you have an aftermarket radio you may need a code when the battery is reconnected). Note when disconnecting the battery on some Citroens odd electrical things can happen if a procedure is not followed - there is one in the C3 Technical subforum in the Common Problems post that has worked for me. f) make sure the battery negative lead can not contact the battery (move it to one side) g) wait at least 10 minutes before doing anything else. To re-activate the airbag have the key out of the ignition, nobody in the car, connect the battery, open the driver's door, switch on the ignition and check the airbag light comes on and then goes off as normal - if not see a dealer before driving the car. As for removing the wiper/lighting stalk unit, again based on Haynes - - remove steering wheel (after air bag), 1st set wheels straight ahead and release steering lock (use white paint to mark its position on the shaft before pulling off), feed the air bag and rotary connector wiring through the wheel (on refitting align the 2 arrows on the rotary connector before fitting the steering wheel) - remove steering column shrouds - remove air bag rotary connector (first undo its electrical connector then undo its 3 screws - note wiring route) - undo wiring connectors - undo 3 screws securing switch housing to the steering column and remove the housing - the relevant switch can be removed from the housing after removing its 2 securing screws.

I copied this from the Citroen Picasso forum (sister site to this one) which may help a little bit. ------------------------- This is what I (Lapin 127) posted on the Forum in April last year:- Tow bar electrics now fitted! Behind the Boot Light, there is a handy bit of flat plastic trim where the relay can be mounted and a 6mm Stud for an Earth. I have taken a heavy cable from the Fuse Box in the Glove Box, as I have also fitted an accessory 3-way Socket (cig.lighter socket) in the boot for Mini Fridge etc. On the Fuse Box board, there is a connector block with heavy red and white cables, I have taken a fused feed from the live Red wire, which does not appear to be in the 'Economy Mode' circuit. It was quite easy to take the new lead to the boot, under the internal Sill Trims. Feeds from the N/S Tail light, Indicator and brake light are needed, plus another feed from the O/S Indicator (over the top, under the edge of the Headlining and down the n/s c-pillar). You do not need feeds from the O/S Tail light or O/s brake light, as the Relay just needs a single feed for each. Everything fine after inserting the fuse! Regarding using the feed off the Boot light, haven't tried it but suspect it may take too much current, especially if Tail lights, Brake lights and an Indicator all work together. PLEASE NOTE - if you are not TOTALLY confident in splicing into existing circuits and working with car trim removal, DO NOT try this job - you will be safer to take the car to a competent, insured Auto electrician; 'cooking' an ECU or Wiring loom could lead to a very expensive bill! My installation has worked perfectly - note the last line - I have had a lot of experience with car wiring, the first rule is ALWAYS put a fuse in the new live feed you have installed - even then, if the circuit you have spliced into has a low power consumption, the 'computer' may see it as a fault! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- However, you do not need to follow this. When I did our C5 estate for towing a caravan, I used the fusebox 30 amp trailer live feed wire (thick beige wire) to the existing wiring connector, which I found behind a panel at the left side of the boot, as a supply for one of the bypass relays and therefore able to fit its fuse in the fusebox. The wiring loom (as in other Citroens we have had) ran from the glovebox fuse box down the left sill and to the left side of the boot and the left lights, continuing over the top to the right side lights. I removed the rear lights to identify the correct wires for each bulb (colours and identification numbers - most of them are white) and then found them in the loom at the left of the boot. The relays (12N and 12S) were mounted at the left side and spliced into the relevant wires in the loom using scotchloks. I suggest that you do something similar, check at the fusebox that the trailer fuse points are live first and then find the trailer socket in the boot, most likely at the left side behind the panel. Use the permanent live wire from this for your relay live feed. Then find the correct wires for the lights - light removal will be in the handbook for bulb changing. This is based on the Citroen manual: To remove the boot side trim panels - move the seats fully forward, partially detach the boot aperture seal (not sure if this is needed), remove the rear parcel tray, remove the torch, remove the bolts from what may be the torch location, unclip the panel from the top and sides - it looks as if the top clips to the upper panel and the sides use plastic clips a bit like press studs, (once you have undone one clip you will know what to do but sometimes these things break) so try doing the sides before the top, undo the torch electrical connector and remove the panel from the car.

At the outer ring of the rubber gaiter, try pushing it down so it unclips from the console. Once released it may just pull up and stretch over the gearknob. If you need to remove the gearknob, in the Haynes manual for the C3 it says to twist off the knob. When doing this, if a lot of effort pulling up is needed, keep your head to one side so you do not hit yourself as it releases.

Welcome to the forum. Please could you tell us which gaiter, gear lever, cv joint - inner/outer, and the car engine/model.

This is copied from one of the posts by coastline taxis in the links: yep its the stepper motor. remove the dashboard by inserting a couple of credit cards under the dash below the 2 holes at the bottom of the cluster. the stepper motor is held in place by 2 white prongs DO NOT pull them apart cause they will snap and youl need a whole new unit just gently aply a bit pressure to them and pull the motor out. to put new one in line the 4 metal contacts up and push it in. replace the dash by just pushing it in then the jobs done Something not noted above - if you fit a used replacement speedo, the car will adopt the mileage that is the higher of your existing speedo or the replacement one.

Thankyou for getting back to us and for posting the video. I have read before of the pulley failure but until now had never heard the noise of one - no wonder you were worried but at least it was not too expensive compared to other possibilities. I will add this to the list of common problems on the technical subsection. Something for you to keep an eye on, on the 2.2 hdi 136 bhp engine. At the gearbox end of the cylinder head is a ball and socket joint from a part called a diaphragm which controls the swirl flaps. The plastic socket often fails. A new part is only about £20 and you can replace the complete diaphragm part or just detach the plastic socket and change that. There are posts on it in the forum.

If you look on the Citroen accessory site under any vehicle, safety, dog guard, it does not list one for the C4 Picasso, only the Grand one. There are universal aftermarket ones on ebay. http://www.accessories.citroen.co.uk/national-accessory-selector/?categoryId=886&subCategoryId=913&?&pageSize=10&page=1

I have just done a temporary edit on the procedure and will finish it later - if there are any comments please feel free.

I would try to get them to offer to pay the fitting costs and see what they say and mention the broken finger. Will they supply the correct alternator or will that come from elsewhere ? If you have one, now sounds like a good time for your Mrs (or children) to learn about car maintenance. How long will the finger need to heal, if it is going to take a long time for the company to reimburse you so you can buy the correct alternator to swap over then the extra cost may not apply. Had the original alternator failed or was it just the battery ?

My local dealer has a few cars over 3 years old and our first C3 was 4 when we got it and had the 12 month warranty. I was considering a 4 year C4 2.0 hdi from them recently and that still came with the 12 month Citroen approved warranty. I wonder if Arnold Clark are not a 'true' Citroen dealer and do not sell Citroen approved used cars. I quick look at the link does not show any warranty details. When we were looking at cars earlier, Evans Hallshaw Citroen branch in Hull would only provide a 3 month warranty unless you purchased one - that plus other extra costs like admin made their cars a lot more expensive than it first appears. Plus the price was fixed and they would not patch up any damage on the cars. Maybe these large companies have a different arrangement with Citroen and in reality only have the Citroen sign outside the premises. If you look on Citroen's site for used cars (which has details of the warranty), I think these large companies do not appear.

In our C5 handbook, under the section on starting it has: Advice Vehicles equipped with a turbo: Turbo equipped engines MUST be allowed to return to idle for several seconds before switching off the ignition. Failure to do so could cause serious damage to the turbo unit. Flicking the throttle pedal as the ignition is turned off can lead to severe damage to the turbo unit. For the several seconds I would allow about 30. We have a C4 2011 1.6 hdi 110 bhp and we are pleased with it. Its about 32k miles now, returns average about the 52 mpg you mention but on motorway runs Warrington to Hull/Lincoln gives about 67 mpg unless into a headwind which could knock it back 10 mpg. This is at normal motorway 70 mph speeds.

The most recent Haynes C3 manual includes the 1.6 hdi, my older copy does not so can only go by the 1.6 hdi in the C5 manual and it does not look too bad. I did the timing belt on our 1.4 petrol C3 and that was easy enough following Haynes although filling with coolant was a bit of effort to get the air out (I also replaced the water pump). It would have taken a full day. When you get the new belt on you have to turn the engine a couple of times with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, on the petrol this was not too much effort but a diesel will be harder due to higher compression and in the C5 manual Haynes says to rotate 10 times. As well as the belt you should replace the tensioner and any pulleys and consider the auxiliary belt and pulleys since this belt will be removed. If you do replace the water pump, Citroen sell the Glysantin G33 coolant recommended for about £5 a litre, it is a blue colour, not clear as the original. According to the BASF website it has a 4 year life. I used this but did not flush all the old stuff out and later noticed what looks like grease in the coolant tank - there are no signs of head gasket failure so I did suspect it may have been from the coolants being slightly different. Citroen also seem to sell another coolant but this was not offerred at the time and it could be the long life stuff. As an aside, there is a C4 post on a turbo failure. There were no warnings before, during or after and the poster is asking about this. From your experience perhaps you may have a look