paul.h

I have slightly altered the topic title to see if there are any more comments, others on here have had a turbo fail on different cars and they may have had something warning them of the failure. For future reference, Citroen dealers give a 12 month warranty on their approved used cars but they may have slightly higher prices.

I am not sure that the heater plugs - glow plugs - would cause a fault if not working, I would have thought they would just make it difficult to start in cold weather. And if they are staying on then possibly they could be disconnected. Perhaps somebody else will comment on this. We really need the fault codes. If you are having to pay somebody to read/delete these each time then consider buying a code reader, they are not expensive (about £20 upwards) and if you get one that does some live data it improves its use. As an example http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_GCR25.html To check sensors, etc though will require a Citroen dealer type Lexia. Also if you give your location another member may be able to read the codes for you. As for the process of elimination, are you using a Citroen dealer and has the air flow sensor been replaced ?

Welcome to the forum. Did you get a 12 month warranty with the car ? When turbos fail they can break up and put bits of metal through the engine and cause a lot of damage to the bores/pistons and possibly metal in the oil system which could damage the bearings. If the engine is stopped as soon as it goes though the damage may be prevented and the turbo rotor stay in one piece. When I had one go on a Saab petrol engine there was a large cloud of smoke so I stopped straight away - only needed a turbo, lambda sensor and catalyst. There had previously been smoke on start up and a bit on accelerating so that was a warning. To check for debris in the engine would likely need the inlet manifold to be removed so I guess Arnold Clark will have done this. To check the extent of damage would require the cylinder head to be removed. If there is engine damage your best option (if it is not covered by a warranty) may be a second hand engine and a new turbo, but turbo failure on the 1.6 hdi is common so finding one may not be easy.

No, the pin mentioned was a mistake. The mark 1 and 2 brakes are the same and the mark 3 has a long spring holding the caliper to the bracket as well as the retaining bolts but these appear to use an allen key. Now I am a moderator though I can edit the post so it is correct.

Thankyou for the reply, I have noted the door latch in the bsi reset procedure pinned post as an alternative to opening the window.

The question has been asked what to do if the window will not wind down (eco mode) and following a test by ivorcitroen, if the driver's door is opened, the latch can be closed using a screwdriver and then the car thinks the door is closed since the courtesy light in the test went off. It appears the sensor for the door closed/open is in the door lock, although this has still to be confirmed by somebody. So, if the driver's window can not be opened, before disconnecting the battery, open the door and keep it open but close its latch with a screwdriver - once the reset has been completed the latch can be opened again using the door handle

The Xsara maxi fuses are in the engine fusebox under the top layer of fuses - it was one of these that had failed and cut all power to the car so nothing would work. It failed on setting off so had to push the car back the few feet it had moved.

puygrenet555 has not been back since the last post on 19th September so we may never find out how this was resolved, if at all. This often happens, members ask for help but do not let us know if it worked or what did work, not even a thankyou for the time taken by other members.

Welcome to the forum. Citroens have canbus wiring so options are to fit a dedicated wiring kit for your car (there may be a trailer wiring connector hidden somewhere in the boot area or at the side of the boot behind a panel - fuses are listed in the car handbook and these may be permanent live supplies) or to fit a lower cost relay kit taking its 12 volt supply from the battery with a 15 amp fuse at the battery end - or using the permanent live supply in the trailer socket from the fuse box. With the relay kit you will need to identify the correct light wires by removing the rear lamps and tracing them back to a suitable point to splice in (scotchlocs) - Citroen tend to use a number sysem rather than colours which makes it a bit harder to follow them. Remember to tell your insurance company you have a towbar, it will not cost anything but stops them avoiding paying out on a claim since you have a modification. (I have moved the post in to a subsection since ones outside do not show after a few days and are not easy to find)

Just had a look at the pinned post and it needs revising. It may be your pads and discs were replaced before you bought the car and hence they do not need doing yet. The Haynes manual says to remove the caliper bracket to remove the disc. A member put some pages from his Haynes manual here https://picasaweb.google.com/117321021404803473044/HaynesCitroenC5OnlineCarWorkShopManual# and will help until you get your copy. If the disc is still stuck after the wd40 soaking, and a hammer still will not knock it off, even with a bit of heat, in the past I have used an angle grinder on the bit over the hub on other cars. Cutting a slot has been enough to release the grip on the rust. If you decide to leave the disc until later, remember to use brake cleaner or other solvent to remove the wd40. When re-using old pads, rubbing the friction face on emery paper on a flat surface will remove the glazing and similarly on the disc. If you have wound the piston back, it should be adjusted so 1 mm max gap to the pads (I can not remember where I got this from but I have noted it in my Haynes) with a piston slot lined up to the mark on the caliper opposite the caliper slot. Once you have fit the pads, pump the brake pedal to move the piston and adjust the brakes before fitting the handbrake cable back.

For some reason, the tyre size in the link is no longer there, what size/speed rating are they ?

Welcome to the forum. The P0380 glow plug code may not be relevant apart from starting now the weather is starting to get cold. The fuel pressure may be but to check the pressure would need a diagnostic check. Not sure about the N1600 one, could possibly be to do with the immobiliser. Things that cause a cut out when hot include the crankshaft sensor, and once cooled down they can work again until hot. Ideally you need to have a diagnostic check using a dealer type Lexia, without you could start replacing parts but not be lucky enough to get the faulty one first time.

A member of this forum put some C5 manual pages on here https://picasaweb.google.com/117321021404803473044/HaynesCitroenC5OnlineCarWorkShopManual#

Welcome to the forum. I can not help other than to suggest checking the fuses and a dealer diagnostic check. Some Citroens need to follow a battery disconnection/reconnection procedure to avoid odd electrical problems and I have found the following has worked on our C3 and C5, copied from the C3 Common Problems post: If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

In our handbook, the official oil I think is Total Ineo ECS quartz 5w/30 low saps (for the particle filter) and is about £25 for 5 litres from a supplier on ebay. However, look in your maintenance book since oil recommendations change.

I think the corrosion starts as soon as the cars are built - our first C5 we got at 2 years old, about 16k miles and that had corrosion on the calipers/arms and the second was 4½ years old 12500 miles and again had corrosion. Maybe somewhere there will be corrosion rates when steel and the alloy are put together plus a bit of rain. I tend to redo the corrosion removal/brake clean every 2 years and in that time there is a bit more corrosion, despite the copper grease and the car is kept in the garage and not used too often.

Welcome to the forum. A bit more information please, - how many miles/km has the car done - which engine does it have - was the air flow meter replaced or just the wiring harness - is it the heater plugs (glow plugs) or the fuel injectors that need replacing (removal of these is a specialist job and they can break - it has been on this forum before) - what is wrong with the heaters - does the blower work, can the air temperature be increased and decreased - is the engine fault light on and if so have the fault codes been read and can you list them here

Welcome to the forum. An unusual problem. I can not answer your question on the vacuum pump but a few questions that may help others to diagnose the problem. - In the 5 mile drive from cold, have you used the brakes before they appear to come on on their own ? - With the vacuum hose to the servo disconnected do the brakes work (but with a lot more effort), not stick on and the pedal release normally - just to see if the problem is the master cylinder, such as internal spring broken so the seals do not push back to release the fluid pressure ? - With the hose connected does the servo hold vacuum and once the engine is switched off, is this released by pumping the brake pedal ? - Rather than disconnecting the vacuum hose, have just tried stopping the engine and pumping the brake pedal, which also releases the servo vacuum, to free off the brakes ?

Our C5 is a 173 bhp 2.2 hdi 2007 estate, replaced a 2004 136 bhp 2.2 hdi hatchback. The change was since we bought a heavier caravan, MTPLM 1499 kg but in use probably about 1350 kg (old caravan MTPLM 1300 / 1100 kg). I did consider a mark 3 C5 but in the end went for as young a mark 2 as I could get on a low mileage and wanted the hydractive suspension. The estate tows very well, better than the hatchback did with the heavier caravan. It also handles better than the old car so there must be some improvements made.

Sources of info on this engine include the Citroen parts diagrams on the service.citroen site (you can register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club - parts diagrams are a free service but you can also pay for timed access to other documents/procedures), the Citroen manuals which can be bought from such as ebay on 3 dvds, a French RTA manual on the C5 available from such as Amazon (it is in French but has good diagrams and photos) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rta-654-1-Citro%C3%ABn-C5-Diesel/dp/2726865410/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384183575&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=RTA+C5+manual , I think Haynes do a Peugeot manual for the 406 ? with this engine but there may be differences - some libraries have Haynes manuals.

This is one of those jobs where you just need the confidence to have a go, so well done. You will probably need to clean up the corrosion again in a couple of years and has to be seen as a regular maintenance job but second time around it is a bit quicker. Did you bother fitting shims behind the rear pads ? When I cleaned mine up the other week the pads had worn at an angle which I suspect is due to the shims only covering half of the back of the pads and I was tempted to not fit the shims again.

New tyre labels now give the noise levels so maybe you could look at ones for your tyres and alternatives to see if a tyre change may help. You can also get aftermarket sound insulation kits, I once fit one of these on a car about 20 years ago, but you would think a top range exclusive would not need one. A quick look on black circles, assuming W speed rating, shows these tyres have the highest noise level at 72 dB vs say Michelin at 69 dB. This number difference may not seem much but decibles are a log scale. 10 dB higher is twice the noise level so 3 dB difference may be 30% louder (if I have got this right) and would be noticed - but how this noise level is transferred in to the cabin I am not sure. On your V5C registration form the noise level is also given so you could compare this with other cars - our 2007 mark 2 C5 estate shows 74 dB(A) drive by sound level. This may not directly be the same as being in the car but may show if the mark 3 C5 is noisy as supplied on original tyres. Perhaps you will provide the value from your V5C for comparison.

Welcome to the forum. Does the noise seem to come from the top of the engine and does it increase with engine speed ? Have you removed the engine covers and listened to the noise to see where it may be coming from ? It could possibly be a worn camshaft or hydraulic lifter. There is also a chain driving the inlet cam shaft from the exhaust one, perhaps this is worn or the guide runner. To check these would require the cam cover to be removed and possibly the inlet manifold but the chain is below the oil filler cap so you might be able to see it by removing the cap, but I am not sure. However, see if there are any more ideas suggested.

In the end I let the dealer replace the rear strut at MOT time so I have not yet used the sphere tool. The cylinder seals may have been leaking rather than just the gaiter since once replaced I have noticed the rear no longer pumps up about an inch when the locks are opened with the remote. Using a small tie wrap did not stop the leak from the gaiter and the leak must have been small since oil did not come out of the gaiter vent pipe.

Welcome to the forum. There are a many knowledgeable C5 owners on this forum so if you have any problems and need help or are able to help others then please feel free to add new topics/posts.