paul.h

Just to confirm, your car is the 2004 to 2008 version of the C5 and not the new shape tourer. The fuse you are looking for is maxi fuse 8, 40 amp. It will be located in the engine fusebox under the top layer of fuses.

Welcome to the forum. It could pay you to buy your own fault code reader, decent ones that give live data are available for less than £60 (eg Gendan do their own make, recently bought one as a spare to leave at a relatives and this works well). Then when it happens you could read and clear the code(s) and post it on here. Low fuel pressure possibilities could include the fuel pressure switch is faulty, a faulty fuel pump. If there was more than one code the low fuel pressure may be a result of something else. To read the fuel pressure though a standard code reader with live data will not work, you would need a dealer type Lexia and Chinese copies are available and some members on here have one. £144 just to replace a fuel filter is a bit much unless it included the diagnostic check, even then, they came up with the wrong answer so maybe there is a comeback there.

What is the weight of your caravan, MIRO and MTPLM and the weight you actually tow at ? The mark 1 and 2 and the different engines and manual/auto gearboxes can pull different weights. If you can avoid the auto it may be best since a few on here have reported problems with their cars.

You could check if the pump electrical connector is on properly and then check the fuses. The handbook will list which one could be at fault. DIY repairs are possible on the suspension system and these are detailed in the Haynes manual. Have you found the source of the leak yet ? You need to support the car on axle stands if you go under the car since without, the suspension will drop very low when it is depressurised, plus if you catch one of the height adjusters it can also drop down.

If you look on autotrader there are many C5s for sale that will not cost alot to buy/do any possible repairs to get it up to standard. Also, unless you need an automatic, it is best to stick with a manual gearbox - better fuel economy but no high costs to repair/replace. C5s usually have good bodywork and it is unusual to see a tatty old one so why settle for anything less. I would be reluctant to buy a car on ebay and would always want to see it try it out first.

If this is the first pad/disc change they have lasted well (or you do not brake often), I did ours on about 40000 miles.

Thankyou for this fix. You are quickly becoming a valuable member from your willingness to share your experience of your C3. I have moved the topic into a subforum since outside of one they are not visible after a few days and can become lost. I have also modified your title slightly so it is easy to find when searching for help.

Welcome to the forum. Thankyou for this fix, I have copied your post to the common problems list I am gradually building up and slightly modified your post title.

Welcome to the forum. You need to ask if the engine has run on the oil - a diesel runaway, so it may have ran at high revs and had to be stopped using the clutch - but it is an auto so not sure how that would be done. It is unusual for a garage to sell a car like this, I thought they still had to provide a guarantee. The smoking may be due to engine damage and not just oil in the exhaust. Also there may be oil seal leaks.

Not sure about this, but I vaguely remember our previous C5 tank was white plastic that allowed the fluid level to be seen. Pity you could not contact the previous owner and find out what has been done - maybe it was sold when the cost of sorting it out was becoming a bit too much.

When you turn the engine off and remove the ignition key, if you then move the wiper switch arm, do the wipers go to the vertical park position which allows wiper replacement, or do they go to the normal park position - just in case somebody has had the wiper mechanism removed and not put it back right. Or, have you had the car some time and it has just started to do this on its own without any previous work done on it ?

Welcome to the forum. There are many C5 owners on the forum so you are in good company.

At that mileage I would be replacing the belt and its pulleys if they have not already been done. Also the timing belt, water pump, tensioner. Spraying WD40 or similar or duck oil on a belt is really a short term bodge. Inspect it closely and you may find it is covered in small cracks. To check a pulley (not the crankshaft one) you could listen to it, it may whine and increase in volume with revs but if the belt is slackened any roughness or play in the bearing may be felt by spinning it. By trying the silicone the garage has acknowledged there is a problem but if they will not do anything then maybe you could try a deal where you pay part of the cost - or if you do not trust them do it yourself. The Citroen maintenance/warranty book is not straight forward to follow and a July 2010 copy indicates the timing belt to be replaced on the 2.0 hdi at 140k miles or 10 years under normal conditions or 112500 miles under arduous conditions. It gives to replace the auxiliary drive belt at 80k miles or sooner or at 75k miles under arduous conditions. It also gives the exhaust particle filter to be checked at 100k miles and the eolys fluid level to be checked from 50k miles. However, check your own copy since recommendations change. For a workshop manual there is a French RTA one from Amazon, but the best option is to get a Citroen one on 3 dvds from such as ebay for about £5.

Did you get the fuel injectors sorted and the suspension, last we heard you were going to try and get the garage to do these under warranty ?

The headlining is the cloth ceiling above your head. With the hatch door open, start to undo/lower it in the middle at the door opening, sufficient to get a hand between it and the metal roof, but be careful since it can crack. It may be necessary to remove the side plastic trim.

Welcome to the forum. When it cuts out are there any other things noticed such as the clock needs resetting ? A fault like this could be anything and since it is not giving the engine management light it probably will not give any fault codes. To do a diagnostic check for a faulty component it would most likely need connecting to a dealer Lexia. It could well be electrical so things you can check are the battery connections are tight, all the earth connections, connections to all the components, all the wiring for any damage/rubbing - possibly with the engine running and somebody using the accelerator pedal to see if it cuts out, the ignition switch connection, try the spare key in case it is the immobiliser but this would not check the car side, check the immobiliser transponder (pick up) at the ignition switch, check all the fuses are fully in place, make sure you do not have lots of other keys hanging on the car key which could cause it to move slightly (read this somewhere once), maybe the accelerator pedal needs replacing - some are electrical and the electrical bits can wear out and on our 1.4 petrol after about 25k miles it is difficult to control the engine at low revs and is due for its second replacement (approx £60) - to check this with the engine running slowly increase the revs from idling and see it they can be increased gradually.

You could look at the parts diagrams and see if you think they can be fitted and it may have been they are on the dearer models. You can see these on the service.citroen website, register as another professional, member of the Citroen Owners Club.

The airbag fault sometimes is a connector under a seat, or a problem with the comms 2000 unit under the steering wheel. The anti pollution fault could be anything so reading the codes is a good start. Which engine is it ? I have moved the post in to a subforum since outside of these they tend to get lost and not be seen and after a few days are not visible.

Welcome to the forum. The time it takes to go to economy mode is supposed to be affected by the battery voltage. A fully charged one should be about 12.5 to 12.7 volts before starting the engine and some hours after it has last run. So if your battery is just over 12 volts then maybe it needs a good charge. Often cars just purchased may have sat around for some time so the battery will be down a bit, so I would wait until a few days of running before worrying about the battery, or you could charge it off the car.

If you snap one of the rear bolts, they are quite hard making drilling them out difficult (from my experience) so a set of good drill bits will be needed. Also you are likely to damage the threads in the suspension arm so I ended up replacing the snapped bolt with a longer one and putting a nut on the back of it. Getting a replacement longer bolt is not easy since they are very high tensile ones 10.something where as normal high tensile ones readily available are 8.8. The only thing I could do was get an even higher tensile 12.something allen headed bolt (screw since not threaded all the way) and a 8.8 nut to go on it from a bolt supplier. If you do resort to a blow torch, just do it at the back of the suspension arm, if you do it on the caliper there are the rubber bits, it is also alloy but if this expanded it would just make the bolt tighter. Before you do any of this, have a look to see if there are signs the caliper has been pushed out by corrosion by looking at its central joint in relation to the edge of the disc and if the pads are worn more on one side. If not then maybe just remove and clean the pads up, although the stuck bolts may be a sign.

Haynes now do a manual for the C4 but it does not cover the 2.0 hdi engine but the rest will be useful. It gives the following but it may not be possible to remove the rear door card without some damage since it needs to be open to undo the 3 screws on the front edge (have a look at the opening door). After this undo the screw inside the grab handle, prise up the switch/grab handle (switch may only be on the front doors), disconnect the switch plug, carefully unclip the trim around the release handle and remove it, if the rear doors have manual window handles use a rag under the handle moved side to side to release the securing clip, pull off the window handle and spacer (put the clip back on the handle before losing it), if fitted unclip a coutesy light from the bottom of the door and undo its wiring plug, use a forked tool to unclip the edges of the door panel from the door, pull the panel outwards and lift it up to remove it from the door. Some clips may get broken and need replacing.

Welcome to the forum. How many miles has the car done and does it use much oil between services, possibly indicating worn valve guides and piston rings that could lead to excessive pressurisation of the cam cover ? A few thoughts; - was the replacement cap the correct one. - are the pegs in place that the filler cap tightens up against. - does the cap feel tight when it has been rotated in place and does it have the O-ring seal. - the battery light is probably from the oil leaked onto the alternator, hopefully this will clean off and not result in damage. - leave the engine cover off for now if you think this has caused the filler cap to rotate loose. - the loss of power may be due to a sudden air flow in/out of the cam cover when the filler cap came off which would not be measured by the air flow meter. - check the breather hose and connections between the cam cover and the air inlet piping are not blocked.

This is likely a blown fuse. Check the handbook for one that covers these things but if none are listed then it may be a maxi fuse. These are not usually listed in the handbooks but will be in a Haynes manual which should also give the location - they are often located hidden in the engine fusebox and need the upper layer of fuses moving but I am not familiar with the Xsara to give definite advice.

You can get a Citroen one on 3 dvds including the parts diagrams from such as ebay for about £5. I have moved your post into a subforum since outside of one the posts can not be seen after a few days.

On the washer pump, if it is running both ways, it may also be a blockage between the pump and the washer jets. So you could first try a pin in the washer jets to remove any dirt before removing the front bumper.