paul.h

This is only a guess but there could be a problem with the switch unit under the steering wheel and you might need to use a dealer to check it. However, odd electrical problems can sometimes be cured by a battery disconnection/reconnection or a bsi reset so it would be worth trying this. This is from the C4 Common Problems topic: 11. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3). In the handbook for the 2015 C4 it says to wait at least 2 minutes after switching off the ignition before disconnecting the battery and when reconnecting, to wait at least a minute after switching on the ignition before starting the engine. ------------------------------------------------------------- This topic from the C5 Technical section has a version of a bsi reset and you can find other versions if you look on the internet: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/15093-bsi-reset/ --------------------------------------------------------------- This topic is from the C3 Common Problems topic and has a method to reset the Comms 2000 unit which is the steering column switch unit. 27. Comms 2000 unit reset method to fix wipers/washers not working. This topic by vectratot includes a method to reset the comms 2000 unit after the wipers and washers stopped working http://www.citroen-o...ing/#entry82270

Was the problem then sorted by just lowering the oil level or did it need a reset or something ? We do not know if Gnawman1's car was fixed since despite saying he would report back, he has not yet done so. I will try a message to try to find out.

Welcome to the forum. You should check the wiring betwen the body and the tailgate since it is a common problem for it to break and cause electrical problems. I think it is top left of the tailgate/body and inside a rubber pipe.

Welcome to the forum.

In the Warranty and maintenance guide that came with our 2010 C3, the C5 2.0 hdi timing belt should be done at 140k miles or 10 years if sooner. So it is due very soon. I would not leave it to the 140k miles though and there was a case on here where somebody went over 140k miles and the belt failed causing a lot of damage. The tensioner, water pump and pulley should also be replaced at the same time. It gives the FAP as needing checking ( probably replacing or cleaning) from 100k miles and the eolys fluid as needing topping up within a range of 50k to 80k miles. If you do an advanced search on here on C5 towbar there are a few topics to read. For the wiring a dedicated wiring kit will be the easiest to install but will likely need a diagnostic to set it up so will not be as low cost as a wiring kit taking supplies from the battery to a relay and splicing in to the rear lights.

Welcome to the forum. On the C5 Technical section read the pinned Common Problems topic for things to check when buying, particularly the steering rack column shaft seal for leaks, the front wipers work, the windows go down and up.

Welcome to the forum. The wet rear gaiter may need a new strut. About £130 for the part plus an hour to fit. I tried on our C5 just replacing the gaiter but this did not work and it still leaked. Also when replaced the rear stopped dropping overnight so this could sort out your other problem. It seems normal thought for a slight drop but the car will still be parallel with the floor, not one end down compared to the other. The leaking injector seal where it contacts the cylinder head needs replacing before you get too much carbon build up. If left the injector can be very difficult to remove with possible injector damage. On the C5 Technical is a pinned topic of Common Problems to look at and on another section some info on cleaning the brakes. The rear ones get a corrosion build up between the caliper and suspension arm that needs removing every couple of years or you get brake squeal and the caliper can be pushed out and touch the wheel. At 10 years old the car is due for the timing belt/tensioner/water pump/pulley replacing if not already done. The exhaust dpf and eolys fluid additive should already have been serviced (dpf clean or replace and fluid top up) but you can check your records. Haynes do a workshop manual that is worth getting. If you need to jack up the car always raise the suspension to max height first before using the jack to avoid possible suspension problems. If going under the car always use axle stands since if a height sensor is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a very low level.

I was reading something that suggested similar problems of juddering and smoke could be from an egr valve fault. Whilst your egr valve has a blanking plate, it may be worth checking the plate to see if it is in one piece and without any holes in it. If the plate is thin metal it might have become damaged or there could be an air leak on the pipes around it.

To check the water pump bolts will need the timing covers removing so not an easy job. If there are no more signs of coolant leaking then it could be the gasket is not leaking but the initial coolant on the sensor could have been from when the pump was replaced. When I changed the pump on our C3 I did not bother draining the coolant first but just let it run out down the engine as the pump was removed and I would expect most would do this to save time. The bolts are not done up that tight (16 Nm from Haynes) but are done diagonally so the pump is seated evenly. Since the crank sensor is next to the crankshaft pulley and alternator belt, when the engine is running you do not want to be putting your hands anywhere near it and I am sure you already know this. Also beware that if going under the car you should raise it to max height first and then use axle stands since if a height sensor is caught the suspension can quickly drop to a very low level, quicker that you can get out of the way - this also applies if you are going to jack the car up or suspension faults can occur.

If it is a damaged wire, possibly it moves about and maybe a bare section touches the engine metal part shorting it out every now and again. If the sensor is faulty the coils in them can break but the gap betwen the damage occurs as it warms and expands but when it cools down the gap closes up. If you have a resistance meter you could check the sensor across its connector when cold and hot to see if there is any difference. You can search the internet for symptoms of a failed sensor and as an example http://www.doityourself.com/stry/7-crankshaft-position-sensor-failure-symptoms

Could still be the crankshaft sensor or its wiring so these should be checked. The wiring could have been damaged during the cam belt change so it should be checked. If the sensor is faulty it does not see the engine turning so it thinks the engine is switched off, hence no fault code. With the Citroen diagnostic equipent you should be able to see a signal from the sensor. Is the garage a Citroen one with the correct diagnostic tools ? A cheap code reader will not help, you need something that can do a full diagnostic check, such as the Lexia. You could try a Citroen dealer for the check, they charge about £70.

If happy with the new regulator you could put a link on here. I would check if the parking sensors are clean before replacing any.

If you go the used engine route, make sure it is from a C3 and not a Saxo. There is another topic on here with a Saxo engine in a C3 and some things are different such as the oil filter and inlet manifold.

I once bought cheap India tyres for a Maxi and after 5000 miles the metal cords and cloth were poking out as the tread had worn down. They still kept the air in though but I have never bought cheap tyres since. On that car other makes would give about 15000 miles on the front driven wheels.

Welcome to th eforum. You need to get the Haynes workshop manual which explains what needs doing. Also you need to find out why it overheated since just replacing the head gasket may not be the full repair. Failure of the head gasket is often the result of overheating from such as a low coolant level (maybe a leak), the temperature sensor failing (there are 2 on the 1.4 petrol C3 engine), the engine fan not working, the radiator blocked, the thermostat failing and not opening enough. So I would find out the cause before buying any parts. The head will need checking to see if it has warped and needs skimming. The cylinders have liners which need to be clamped in place when the head is off to avoid them moving and the lower seals moving. Topics to have a read http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23823-need-user-manual-as-need-to-replace-valves/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23157-timing-marks/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23051-replacing-head-gasket/?hl=%2Bhead+%2Bgasket

To add to this, before stopping the engine, let it idle for maybe half a minute to let the turbo slow down before you switch off its oil supply.

Welcome to the forum. If it is just a surface tear then most people might be tempted to keep using the tyre. I would ask the advice of a tyre fitting place though and if it does need replacing they might give you a discount if it is the same place where you originally bought it. The wheel also needs checking in case the alloy has cracked where it hit the kerb.

Have you checked the fuel filter in case it is blocked up or has water in it ? Have you filled up with fresh diesel in case the previous owner had put some odd fuel in, just thinking about the smell you mentioned ? I guess if you contacted the previous owner for some recent history of the car and its problems and what they had tried to fix them, they may not want to talk to you, but it could be worth a try.

Another thought, there could be a problem with the doser valve so the internal flaps are not going to the right position. Could also be a turbo problem. Have a look at these although they may not be of any help http://www.peugeotcentral.co.uk/ftopic-9290.html http://www.peugeotcentral.co.uk/ftopic-15155.html Could also be a vacuum problem, check all the small diameter pipes for splits. Have a look at this and the problem was found in the last post http://peugeotrczforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=9481&sid=7eeb151b3faca6282bef90125ad98e71&start=20

Welcome to the forum. Possibly the gear change cables connections are worn and need replacing but you can check for free play at the gearbox end. They are not adjustable. The biting point on the clutch pedal is quite high compared to most other cars but if it is low then possibly the clutch master/slave cylinders need the fluid changing as part of a brake fluid change.

Welcome to the forum. Possibly an injector problem.

Something that could be checked is the timing in case the belt is a tooth out.

The camshaft sensor should not be getting wet since this is on top of the engine. The crankshaft sensor is probably the one you mention since this may be next to the crankshaft pulley and below the water pump. If the water pump is leaking on to this sensor then that could be the problem causing the engine to cut out. Possibly the gasket on the water pump/engine block is leaking but to sort this needs the timing belt job doing again. Or possibly the sensor and its electrical connection just got wet when changing the water pump and it was not cleaned/dried afterwards or maybe the wiring is damaged. The low coolant level could have been an air lock that cleared once the engine was run or there is a leak so the level needs to be checked. 1700 gbp seems high for this work but without knowing all the details it is not possible to tell. As an example our Citroen dealer charges about £325 to replace the timing belt, an extra approx £100 to add the water pump and about an extra £50 to flush out and replace the anti freeze on our 2.2 hdi C5. A service is around £250 depending on what is done, I would think replacing the front pads/discs may be up to £300. The MOT is about £55 but often less.

It is probably a fault that does not generate a fault code / engine management light. A failing crankshaft sensor could do this, they tend to fail as they get hot and once cool let the engine run again. Next time it happens just let the engine cool rather than pumping the fuel primer and see if it starts. It might be Citroen part 1920GJ but this should be checked using your VIN. An ebay search suggests a new one will be about £30 to £40 so it could be worth replacing it. For anything else though you will need a diagnostic check but for something intermittent it might not show up when checked.

Welcome to the forum. The problem could be a fault with the steering angle sensor which I think may be built in to the switch block (comms 2000) under the steering wheel. Another possibility could be an abs sensor or its wiring.