paul.h

Scimitargtc, at the service the fault with having to slam the hatch door to fully close it did not occur when tested, so none the wiser on this and they did not have another new C4 to see if they all do this. Also I think the problem was not explained that well before the service. Do you have this problem with your car ?

Old Mosher, Sifaan is in Sri Lanka (from memory), hence his problems getting spares and probably the time difference for doing checks/posting replies.

Just had a look at ours - what looks like the LED is a hole which may possibly be for insertion of a tool. The key shape takes a lot of getting used to, for some reason Citroen has redesigned the key to be at right angles to all other cars ever built. If you hold it flat in your hand it is a bit easier to put in the barrel and we have considered getting a key ring with a torch for nights but the key on its own is bulky enough.

It could be from the intercooler and pipework. There will always be oil inside from the turbo so may be worth pulling off a hose and letting any excess oil drain out and give everything a clean. If this is the source then as long as it is not excessive is unlikely to be anything to worry about. There is a French ETAI manual that covers the 2.2 hdi, book CIP 654.1 and usually available from Amazon's French site. It does not cover removing the air filter box though and neither does the Citroen service manual for the 2.2 hdi so it may just be a case of removing the filter box cover, the air mass meter pipe and electrical connector, any other bits and pulling the box out.

Forgot to mention, a spare wheel, jack and brace are extras, cost £200+ unless you are happy with the standard compressor and sealant. If you have alloys, as for any car, remove them and put a smear of copper grease on the hubs so the wheels/hubs do not corrode and stick making the wheels difficult to remove in the future.

We have a 2011 1.6hdi VTR 110+ manual and that goes well and is comfier than our last C4 (2008 1.6hdi VTR+). Fuel economy is good, 60 to 70 mpg on motorways depending on wind direction. Things that take getting used to are the tinted rear windows and the large front headrests and a designer door mirror shape - all combine to make side/rear visibility poor so be carefull when lane changing until you get used to it and when reversing move your head about to see round the blind spots. I have considered trying headrests from a different car but these seem to be the trend for current Citroens. The front seats are not the easiest to get in/out of since they are well in from the doors. The air doser valve above the alternator is a different design to our previous C4 so should not leak oil on to the alternator. The rear hatch needs to be almost slammed shut to lock and we will be getting it looked at at its service - there does not appear to be any adjustment and with the latch closed by a screwdriver you can see a rubber block behind the latch which may be a designed in cause. If you need a workshop manual, ETAI do a French one available from Amazon's French site.

If you can not find a fusible link you may find the wire itself to that nut or where it is connected at the battery or the nut may have melted, likely at the thinnest point which would heat up the most if the high current has only gone between the battery and the nut. Hopefully it will not be as bad as coastline has suggested to check.

A diagnostics article started in September Car mechanics says crank position sensors can fail like this - early signs of failure are when they are hot the engine will cut out but once cool will start again. No fault codes will be given and the engine just thinks the ignition has been switched off. The fuel pump will run initially when the key is put in but then stop. No mention of ESP/ASR though. The sensors are not that expensive so could be worth replacing or at least checking.

citrophile Rob has his footer with 2 C5s as year 2005 so I suspect it is one of those and will have a dmf.

I have looked at a Citroen workshop manual (previous years copies can be bought on dvd from such as ebay since a Haynes is not available and then it would not have this detail. There is a French ETAI manual for the C4 but only covers the 1.6 engines). There is a long list of possible fault codes for the radio unit which would need such as a Lexia to read them. Many of them say the transverse warning lamp will flash orange for 3 minutes but do not show where this is but it may be the red one you are seeing. It looks as if it may be a fault with the radio unit or its wiring but without the codes it is not possible to tell. However, it may be worthwhile pulling the radio out (2 U shaped clips pushed in the holes at each end should release it although our C5 needs a torx bit) and checking the connectors at the back are not loose. If you do this without disconnecting the battery you should be able to check if you can hear the hard disc in the unit spinning to confirm its location. If you replace the radio the new one will most likely need coding to your car. If you do disconnect the radio, first disconnect the battery to avoid any problems with the car ecu.

Sounds like a clutch problem but the dmf may or not be adding to it. It seems to be recommended to replace the dmf anyway when the clutch is replaced. You could always try bleeding the clutch but this may not help.

Not sure if I can help but a few comments. - A fully charged battery is supposed to be 12.7 volts and 12.5 or less is discharged. - With the engine running I have always seen 14 volts measured across the battery so if you are only getting 13.2 volts then that is low - is the drive belt slipping/in need of replacement or the battery terminals/an earth point not making a good connection or your volt meter is not accurate ? - All the Citroens we have had go into eco mode (battery saving mode) if the engine is not running and something is using the battery such as internal lights/the radio and after about 15 minutes these are shut off. To reset this the engine needs to be started. Something worth a try may be to disconnect the battery for a while to reset everything. - Our C5 has a navi drive and I think the disc is a hard drive built into the radio unit but it is always spinning by the sound of it when switched on/the engine is running/if a door is opened. The handbook with the car does not mention the red light above the SOS button either.

parts diagrams do not show a particle filter for the mark 1 c3. On the mark 2 if you look at the exhaust down pipe from the turbo there is a large bit which is the catalyst and another fastened below it which is the filter but there are small diameter pipes around this to measure the pressure - if you do not have these pipes you do not have a filter.

I often have our car on the highest setting when doing work on it and it can be like this all day without any problems - in this position it has not lowered itself after a few minutes when the ecu has shut down. Often is several times a year, the C5 is one of the most reliable cars around, just need to grease the rear brake caliper to axle arm joint every couple of years outside of usual oil/filter changes. Something to remember, if you need to jack the car up to change a wheel, the handbook says to raise the suspension to max height first before using the jack - there have been reports here of suspension problems when this has not been done.

Sounds as if it may be a mechanical problem of a broken bit rather than electrical. If the spare one can be taken apart see if there are any bits that could be used to repair the original one. It could be worthwhile posting this on the C5 subforum which has more followers, in particular coastline taxis who looks after a lot of C5s and if the com 2000 can be repaired he is most likely to know.

May be a test on the filter body would be to warm it with a hairdryer and see if it starts.

Bosch fuel filter - reminds me of some work by coastline taxis which found the early ones have a bi metal strip in them to direct cold fuel to a heater and which if faulty/worn away will give fault code P1138 and stop the car running. The fix will be a new filter body if this is the fault. This may be one of the things coastline taxis will suggest.

May be one or all of the glow plugs are not working but it might not be cold enough to need them. On the diesel Citroens we have/had, the glow plug light at best has only flashed briefly so could easily be missed. Other possibilities may include: - a coolant leak into the cylinders - check if the water level is still normal and not going down, - the coolant temperature sensor may not be correct - if you have access to a code reader with live data it will give the measured temperature and this should be ambient (about 15°C) with a cold engine. - an air leak into the fuel lines letting the fuel drain back to the tank - if there is a hand pump to prime the fuel filter, try using this before starting.

If you check the power and torque of the 2 engines I think you will find the petrol has less and therefore will not accelerate as quickly. Our 1.4sx petrol needs a lot of revs when overtaking maybe 3 to 4000 (or more - it is a high revving engine) so need to drop down a couple of gears, this would possibly compare to 2 to 3000 for a diesel. Our C3 though is not a performance car, more for reasonable fuel economy, and I could possibly count on one hand the number of times I have overtaken in the 5 years we have had the car.

I got the mityvac many years ago and can not remember where from. It is the plastic one model 6820 Brake Bleeding Kit with a small container to collect the fluid and some hoses. The latest ones look a bit different and model 8020 looks to be the equivalent. The pump can also produce pressure which I once used to set up a Saab turbo but required a pressure gauge. The container is really too small (135 ml) and needs frequent emptying when bleeding the brakes but their website shows a larger one MVA6005 (475 ml) which would be a great help. Also air passes around the bleed nipple threads so it may help to use a bit of grease on these but I have never bothered. I have also tried one that requires an air compressor (similar to model 6830) but the small compressor I have has a low air flow and was not up to the job. Edit Model MV7000 from UK tools has the same pump as mine except I did not get a pressure gauge.

Another possibility if you do not want to replace the DPF or knock it out and do the software changes, is to water jet it to remove all the ash that builds up. I think I have read this on here and in the Haynes for the Peugeot 406 2.2 hdi it suggests this.

Bobster, is the message for the diesel fuel filter or the exhaust particle filter ?

We have changed from a mark 1 2.2 hdi 136hp hatchback (kerb weight 1560kg inc driver) to a mark 2 2.2 hdi 173hp estate (kerb weight 1685kg inc driver) so we can better tow a heavier caravan. It does a good job and I am pleased with it (towed over 500 miles in last 2 weeks and giving about 31 mpg - not towing 45-55 on motorways - not used for short trips). So far I do not know the differences other than the newer engine has a twin turbo. This engine does not seem to have been used for long in the new C5 saloon/tourer but that may be since the later 2.0 hdi engines have nearly as much power at 160hp but better fuel economy (you can see this in the car handbooks available on the service.citroen website and the towing limits - these reduce going up hills). The new C5 is quite a bit wider than the old ones, folded mirror width is 1952mm vs about 1880mm - for us this meant we could not get one through our garage door). Maintenance wise for the new C5 saloon/tourer, there is a French ETAI manual available for the 2.0 hdi 138/140hp from such as Amazon's French site and old Citroen dvd discs can be bought from such as ebay with the parts diagrams, wiring diagrams and maintenance manuals covering all Citroens. These can also be viewed on the service.citroen site by paying but the parts diagrams are free. It will probably be years if Haynes ever produce one and then they may not cover the 2.2 hdi engine.

Injector failure on the C3 petrol is quite common - caused by water ingress through the windscreen washer jet holes in the bonnet and from the washer jet pipe connectors. This drips on the injectors causing corrosion of the coils. Prevention is to seal the bonnet and replace the plastic washer hose with a better sealing rubber one. The injector coil holes where the water enters can also be sealed. On our C3 (1.4 SX petrol), shortly after purchase, 2 injectors failed after heavy rain. Fortunately they were replaced under warranty since the car had only done a few hundred miles since we got it. From this forum I then found out how the failure is caused and then took the preventative measures and the car has been ok (now 5 years) and is always kept outside. Now, whether the timing of the failure in your case is related to the cylinder head rebuild may be difficult to prove. Out of interest to help save the rest of us a possible big bill, what caused the cambelt tensioner failure - high mileage/not being replaced when the belt was replaced/age/other ?

If you have not noticed the clutch slipping the pedal bite point sounds ok. Being hydraulic it is self adjusting so the bite point will not alter as the clutch wears. Our C3 is on about 45k miles and still the first clutch plus I can not remember any posts on the C3 subforum about clutch replacement so they must last ok. The clutch fluid is from the brake reservoir so should be changed at the same time as the brakes - I found the easiest way was to suck it through using the Mityvac pump rather than pumping the pedal.