paul.h

'but compressor is having problems maintaining the pressure: on switch on, pressure rises to about 250 psi (17 bar), then drops down to about 170 psi (12 bar).' This may be due to insufficient gas rather than a compressor problem since the compressor raises the gas pressure, it then goes to the condenser at the front and turns to liquid (with a far lower volume) at the same pressure (by cooling) but I would think only if there is enough gas behind it to be compressed. The Citroen mechanics manual gives the high pressure as 17 to 20 bar (outside temp 15 to 20+ °C) so I suspect your compressor is working ok. The compressor is likely to be a fixed volume displacement so if there is not enough gas volume at 17 bar then if the pressure falls the gas will expand to give the compressor volume. End of next week my car is going to the dealer for an MOT and to recharge the refrigerant (if that is what they think is the problem) and I will report back then.

If you carefully lever under the bottom of the cover and then pull it towards you, the cover will come out and then the display can be unscrewed. Make sure the ignition key has been removed for a few minutes first though to avoid any electrical glitches later and do not insert the key again until the screen is reconnected. It may only need bulbs replacing at the back of the screen - Haynes shows 3 bulbs integral with the holders and removed by rotating anti clockwise. The Haynes manual for the mark 1 and 2 C5s does not cover your engine but does cover everything else on the car and will be worth getting. There are also mechanics manuals on the service.citroen.com website which can be downloaded and have some info on your engine. You need to register first (allowed as a member of a car club, such as this one) and you can also see parts diagrams as used by the dealers - other info can also be purchased.

I have done some more checks today and suspect my problem is insufficient refrigerant so it may need regassing. According to the Citroen mechanics manual, with an outside temp of about 15 to 20°C, the air coming out of the central vents with fan on full and engine at 2500 rpm, should be about 7°C - outside was about 18°C and I measured 13°C on the passenger side and 16°C at the driver side so suspect a lack of gas although I did not have the engine at 2500 rpm. The difference in the 2 sides may be related to where the cold gas/liquid enters the evaporator matrix. Touching the matrix with the cabin pollen filter removed it did not feel too cold.

The motor (reduction gear) at the lower driver's side (RHD) controls the temperature at the driver's side and it can be replaced without removing the fascia but it is awkward since you can not see it and there are things in the way (just done mine). Did not solve my problem though, the driver's side temperature does not go down to the air con temp, just the outside air, unlike the passenger side. To remove it, remove the plastic trim at the side of the clutch pedal, the trim (cloth) above the pedals, raise the steering wheel to max height, remove the square plastic trim below the steering column then cover the sharp steel edges now exposed (or suffer cuts). There are three 6mm headed self tapping screws holding the motor in place, 2 can be reached with a short open ended spanner and the top one with a 6mm socket. A mirror and torch are needed to see them. Leave unplugging the wiring connector until last and refit it before the screws (or risk bending the pins on the motor, my experience which meant removing/refitting it all again). Also with the motor removed you can check the flap moves freely (mine did except when the engine was running, why ?) and also if the motor turns when the temp control is adjusted with the engine running. Cover the gap above the exposed carpet edge so the screws do not end up under it when they are dropped (a magnet is useful to retrieve them). The other 3 motors, I think, on the driver's side high up controls the air from the outside or recirculation (this has a different part no. to the other 3), on the passenger side low down is probably the temperature control for the passenger side, on the passenger side high up is probably the flap to direct the air to the various outlets.

If you register on the service.citroen.com site (as a member of a car club as allowed by the terms/conditions) you can download mechanics handbooks that are of use but not as detailed as a Haynes type book. If you do not mind a bit of French, there is a RTA manual (similar to Haynes) for the C8 2.0 and 2.2 hdi from 6/2002. Amazon's French site may have it but also available direct from etai.fr, cost about 36 euros. Ones covering the C3/C4/C5s are good.

The power steering pump is electric on some mark 2 models according to Haynes. On our C3 I replaced the accelerator pedal since that did not accelerate smoothly at low revs and setting off was a bit hit and miss, possibly the internal electrics were worn. I would clean the throttle plate/body with carb cleaner to remove any carbon build up, as a first check though since this could affect the tick over. Maybe also have a look for any loose connectors, damaged wiring, perished hoses giving air leaks.

Pleased it is sorted and hope it was not too expensive.

On the new C5 the low profile tyres are noisy so may be something to avoid, there have been posts on here about it. Its handbrake is on the rear wheels and is electronic on the exclusive ones. We have a C4 as well as a mark 1 C5 - the C4 suspension and seats are firm and after a few miles on bumpy roads (M62 for example) you are glad to get out of it unlike the C5.

Unable to help but the C4owners.org could be worth a look.

On the fuel consumption, if not already done, I would reset the trip meter to zero (hold in the button on the end of the wiper stalk) and see what you get as instantaneous values and each trip. If not reset then the values you are seeing are what the previous owner was getting. If like the C4, the trip meter only goes to 10000 km (about 6400 miles) and then does not change until reset. We have a mark 1 2.2 hdi (similar power/torque to the mark 2 2.0 hdi) and change into 6th gear below 50 mph (or 50 with the caravan on the back) and it pulls ok so being a diesel you can use the low revs high torque as opposed to a petrol that needs more revs. I usually get about 50 to 53 mpg on motorways doing about 65 mph in none windy conditions. The round town mpg is about 36 for your car. The shudder sounds as if it could be the dual mass flywheel that needs replacing based on posts on this site but I also remember something similar due to an injector problem. How many miles has the car done ?

Not familiar with your car but it may just need a service to include new spark plugs, air filter, clean throttle plate/body with something like carb cleaner or white spirit to remove any carbon build up, check for any air leaks/bockages in any hoses around the engine/breather system. If there is an idle control valve then this should be cleaned also.

The electrical unit under the steering wheel, which also has the light and wiper switches, comes as one unit (comms 2000 ?) and the various models and years have different ones. If you look at the parts diagrams on the service.citroen website to get the right one for your car you need to use the VIN. Probably why Haynes tends to show typical diagrams. The diagrams in the RTA manual are not much better, showing a box for the comms unit, just like Haynes.

During the diagnostic check was the car stopped and then restarted to try to give the fault ? It may be worthwhile to check the MAF sensor wiring connector is clean and also see if the MAF is clean internally - if not it may be possible to clean with carburettor cleaner spray.

On a hot day sometimes our car is higher than when left but once the key fob is used to unlock the doors it will settle back down.

The mark 1 C5 2.0 hdi does not have eolys fluid and an exhaust particle filter (FAP) so any problems related to these can not apply in your case. Still search though under anti pollution faults but you probably still need to visit a Citroen dealer (or other) who has a Lexia diagnostic tool. There seem to be lots of different things that can give the anti pollution message. I have read that on the French car forum some members may help out with their Lexias so worth a look.

Have a look on/join the Picasso owners club where you are likely to reach many other owners. There is a link to it from this forum.

I replaced the accelerator pedal on our 2003 1.4 petrol a few years ago since it was difficult to smoothly control the revs below about 1500 (from memory) when setting off but the engine management light did not come on. It was only about £40, was in stock at the dealer and I think some had been replaced on early cars due to problems. It is held by 2 nuts and the wiring connector and easy to replace, although maybe not with your back problems but your friend should be ok.

I am not sure if resistor failure is your problem, in these cases the blower can still be turned off but when on it will only work on max speed. This type of failure is common on many other makes of car. Battery disconnection/reconnection on the C5 is not much of a problem provided it is not done too quickly. I have done it to recharge the battery and had no problems after. I think it is mentioned in the handbook, have a look there but is similar to the following: - switch off the ignition, remove the key, open the bonnet, the doors can be closed but do not lock them, wait a few minutes for the car to fully shutdown then the battery can be disconnected. Wait some time before reconnecting. - reconnect the battery, wait a few minutes, put the key in the ignition, wait a few minutes, turn to first position, wait a few minutes, turn to next position so dash lights up, wait a few minutes, start the engine, take the windows down and back up again to reset the anti pinch, reset the clock.

I can not remember seeing this reported before. Maybe a battery disconnection/reconnection may help or maybe the blower relay is sticking - Haynes shows one in the engine fusebox coming off fuse 18 on its typical heater blower wiring diagram page 12.30. It is worth running the air con once a month or so to circulate the oil so seals do not dry out and allow the freon to escape.

You are probably used to the clutch pedal by now but it can not be adjusted. The clutch fluid shares the same reservoir as the brakes and should be bled/replaced at the same time as the brakes, every 2 years.

Does the noise go if you touch the brakes lightly with the left foot and keeping the right foot on the accelerator so there are no changes related to the engine such as the turbo ? Its just that whistling noises would normally be associated with air flows/leaks and lifting the accelerator pedal to go on the brakes affects not only the brakes. Whining noises could be bearings related and if a wheel bearing, the noise may alter when turning left or right. You could also try removing the wheel trims (if possible) in case these are giving a noise.

Thankyou for the replies. As suggested, I will do a few more trips before deciding on changing the car, it has only done 43k miles so far and is in good condition hence the reluctance to replace it plus it does everything I need from a car. I had been considering a mark 2 C5 estate and a mark 3 tourer but there are few estates of a lowish mileage for sale and the tourer is too expensive, very few have hydractive suspension and being wide, they do not fit through the garage door. Does the estate have a firmer rear suspension than the hatchback ?

I am not aware of anything that lets you turn the beeps off on our car (2003) and can not remember anything in the handbook.

Possibly a diagnostic check first looking at the live data (and any fault codes) from all the various sensors may show what is wrong, rather than replacing parts and seeing if the problem is solved or not. It could be something such as a faulty coolant temperature sensor rather than a MAF sensor.

An update. We have the new caravan, have not had to replace our car and have towed a few trips, about 450 miles so far on motorways and A roads without any problems. The new caravan has a Winterhoff stabiliser and pitches a lot more than the old which gets boring after a while on uneven roads so I may try the old Bulldog blade stabiliser as well and also try reducing the caravan nose weight from the car max of 75 kg. It turned out the caravan MIRO (1334 kg) is now calculated differently to comply with some EEC rules and includes 28 kg to cover 2 gas bottles in the front locker and water in the water heater (neither of which we carry in the caravan) but excludes a battery - hence actual unladen mass including 18 kg for the battery is about 1324 kg (if the weight provided in the caravan handbook is correct). The few bits we carry in the caravan weighed about 10 kg so total unladen weight about 1334 kg which is about 86% of the car kerb weight including the driver. To reduce this further in the car rear footwells are the wheel clamp (18 kg) and as a trial, steel weights (2x12 kg made from 2 bars 100x40x375 mm) so actual ratio is about 83% before loading up the car. Using part of the load capacity to increase the car weight with the steel bar was to see how the existing car coped rather than getting a new heavier car - £120 for 16 bars 100x20x375 mm (from a standard 6m length) from a local steel holders. I welded these to give 8 bars of 12 kg 100x40x375 to allow various combinations in the car depending on how it towed.