paul.h

Welcome to the forum. To remove the front panel, remove the front indicators which then reveal a clip holding the strip under the headlight at each side. Undo the clip and then pull these strips forward at the outside end and then out. The front panel is then held by 4 bolts at each corner which should be removed and then the panel. The headlights are then removed after undoing 3 bolts which hold them in place.

A quick look at the parts diagrams only shows one blower control module, 6441Y5 but you should check your car using your VIN. It looks as if it is on the ducting between the blower and the heater unit but I am not sure. Examples on ebay http://www.ebay.pl/itm/NEW-GENUINE-CITROEN-C8-HEATER-MOTOR-CONTROL-MODULE-CONTROL-UNIT-ECU-6441Y5/281344352872 http://www.ebay.ie/itm/131419115602

Welcome to the forum. If the air con has not been used for some time the seals in the system could have dried out and it could be expensive to fix. However, it might just need to be regassed which in the UK is around 50 pounds - if you definately need air con then try to get the seller to sort it before agreeing to buy the van.

Citroen and Peugeot use the same part numbers, I do not know about Fiat. These part numbers though are not the ones which can be found on the parts since these are ones from the part manufacturers which explains why a dealer will not recognise them.

Welcome to the forum.

I can not really help much here except point out that if you try to fit a radio from another Citroen it will need a diagnostic to code it to your car. Also the wiring connectors can be different. If you look at the parts diagrams there are quite a few different part numbers for the different radios for the Xsara.

Welcome to the forum. On all the Citroens we have had the service indicator has been reset by holding in a button next to the speedo and then turning on the ignition so the dash lights up. The indicator then counted down to =0, the button was released and that was it. The oil change will not be any different to other cars - put a bowl under the sump drain plug, slacken the plug (may use a hex bit in the middle of the plug) and remove it so the oil runs out in to the bowl - should be 5.25 litres if it all comes out, adjust the bowl so it is also under the oil filter canister and then undo and remove the filter (a filter wrench will probably be needed). Once the oil stops coming out, wipe the drain plug area on the sump clean, put a new sealing washer on the drain plug and refit it. The sealing washers are usually less than a pound at a Citroen dealer so a lot cheaper than anywhere else. Wipe the area where the filter fits, then smear some clean oil on the rubber seal on the new filter and screw it back hand tight on the engine without using any tools. Then pour in about 4 litres of new oil into the engine, let it settle and check the level on the dipstick, then add a bit more a few times until the level is at the max point on the dipstick - the oil capacity should be 5.25 litres with the amount between min and max on the dipstick being 2 litres. The old oil should be taken to the local council recycling centre for disposal. Run the engine and check there are no leaks at the drain plug and the filter.

The car must have just been serviced if still 12500 to go, or at least the service indicator has just been reset - it says how in the handbook but is something like hold in the button on the speedo and then turn the ignition key so the dash lights up and then the service indicator will count down to =0, then let go of the button - you then have another 12500 miles or 12 months if sooner. When you are getting near to 12 months since the indicator was last reset, the service will count down by 50 miles each day the car is started. We are on our third C4 with the 1.6 hdi and due to keeping the warranties always had them dealer serviced so the oil/filter was changed each year at around 10 to 12000 miles. Like most people, we have not had any turbo issues and the cars have been changed when about 50000 miles when about 4 years old. I think changing the oil/filter at 6000 miles is a bit too often unless this is taking a year. It gives the correct oil in the maintenance handbook and should be Total quartz INEO ECS 5w30 - about £26 for 5 litres through ebay or a bit more from your dealer.

Just tried the link again, you need at the bottom right to select your language English(UK) and then a Registration button appears top right on the screen.

Welcome to the forum. You will find the C4 is good for long distances, comfortable, handles well enough and should give over 60 mpg on motorways provided you do not go over 70 mph. Things to get used to - the front seat head rests are quite large and obstruct the view if looking back when reversing, the door mirrors need a bit of getting used to since if being overtaken a car at the side could be missed so care is needed when lane changing on a motorway, the key fob has the blade at right angles to any other car, the internal plastics and rubber coating of the rear door handles can be easily scratched. If it does not have a spare wheel and jack/wheel bolt wrench/yellow plastic tool to pull off the wheel bolt chrome covers/plastic tray to hold them all, you can get these from a Citroen dealer for around £200. On the 1.6 hdi the turbo can be prone to early failure so make sure the oil/filter changes are done regularly using the correct oil - should be every year or 12000 miles if sooner.

If you click on the link you can then click on Product comparison which lists the 200 vs the 301. The main differences seem to be the dearer one has a colour screen and will show graphs of the sensor values - I have a code reader that does graphs but it is not really any use. If you were going to spend over £70 you would be better getting a Lexia to put on a lap top which lets you access all the cars systems, not just engine sensors.

I have never tried to set stop overs on our sat nav (2007 Navidrive), I just set the destination and then go the way I want. This way it modifies the route as you go along. In the handbook it looks as if first you set a destination, then in the Navigation/guidance menu you select Journey log and route, then select Add a stage, then put in the stage destination as usual. It then says the stage has to be either reached or deleted to be able to continue beyond the stage. Possibly it is greyed out if you have not first set a destination. To change the order of the stages, the manual says during guidance in the menu Navigation/guidance, select Journey log and route, then select Order / delete journey logs, then select the stage to be moved, then select to move higher or lower in the list.

maybe the height sensor is in the wrong position so it thinks the suspension is at or above the max height. It could be you are trying to put the sensor arm back in the wrong position, if that is at all possible. Maybe with the battery disconnected, remove the sensor arm and then set the switch to the minimum or mid position, then see what happens before putting the arm back. Do this using axle stands but set at a height so the wheels are on the ground but leaving enough room under the body so you can not get squashed - it would be better if the rear wheels were on blocks to give you enough room under the car and a ramp would be ideal. With the battery disconnected, you could also bleed a bit of lds fluid out of the rear bleed screw so the suspension lowers itself - do this with the body on axle stands set at a height so you will not get squashed but with the wheels on the ground (or blocks under the wheels). Then fit the sensor arm back, connect the battery (there is a procedure in the Technical section pinned common problems topic that I have found does not lead to odd electrical problems) and see how you get on. The bleed screw is about the middle of the rear axle, put a container under it and then slacken the screw a bit to let out some fluid.

If the engine temperature is high that stops the air con to reduce load on the engine, so maybe there are other things that have the same effect. Maybe you could check the wiring/connections around the battery to see if there are any faults with it. You could also try continuously measuring the voltage to see if it drops when the warning occurs - there are low cost meters on ebay that can be plugged into a 12 volt socket.

Luckily this did not prove too expensive in the end. I have included this topic in the Common Problems topic since it may not be an obvious thing to check if the air con is not working.

On the C5 technical section there is a pinned topic of common problems to have a look at. For the C5 (X7) a leaking steering rack, front wiper motors, window winders come to mind. Out of the 2 engines I would think the 2.0 hdi may be a better option than the 200 hp (3.0 hdi ?). There is a topic on here somewhere on the 3.0 hdi where it had a running problem for years that could not be sorted. The boot in the X7 C5 is not as large as the earlier models.

I have read on here that to so the tracking on the C5 it is done differently to normal due to the front and rear wheel distances being different. This may not be well known so can lead to the tracking being set up wrongly if trying to align with the rear. It might be worth waiting until the swing arm bearings are done before spending any more money since this could fix the problem.

It might be the oil pressure can be monitored through the diagnostic port using a code reader to see what the pressure switch is giving, unless it is just a pressure/no pressure value. However, looking on ebay it would not cost much to fit a gauge since a gauge and sender can be bought for around £20 but you might need some small diameter fittings if space is tight at the pressure switch area.

If the refrigerant has not leaked out then first it must be removed at a garage. Then according to the Haynes manual the radiator needs removing, then undo the retaining nuts and disconnect the pipes from the right side of the condenser, recover the O-rings, plug the pipes to keep out moisture so the drier does not need replacing, move the top of the condenser to the rear and remove it. On refitting, the pipe O-ring seals should be lubricated with compressor oil. Then go back to the garage to have it leak tested, vacuumed out to remove air/moisture and then regassed.

It is a problem when more than one topic is started on the same problem. As a moderator I sometimes end up locking one of them and posting a link to the other or deleting one. Trouble is this wastes time for all of us when we could be replying to something else so some/most times I do not bother.

Is the £2000 at a Citroen dealer ? If not I would get a second opinion/cost from a Citroen dealer who may also be able to comment on the breather system. Are the leaks bad, if not you could live with them until the timing belt is due for replacement (10 years or a given mileage as per your handbook if sooner) and also the clutch/flywheel need doing when all the parts are removed anyway so the seals can be replaced at minimal extra cost. £2000 though seems very high, our Citroen dealer charges about £350 for the timing belt plus about an extra £100 if the water pump is done, so I would not think it would be more than around £500 for the timing belt, water pump and seal doing. I think I have seen prices ranging from about £400 to £700 for the clutch/flywheel to be replaced so to add the flywheel end crankshaft seal could add maybe £50. If the leak is bad at the timing belt end then it is probably wise to do this one sooner in case oil is getting on the timing belt which could cause it to fail - but still have the belt/water pump/tensioner replaced at the same time so the seal replacement cost is minimal. If you are planning on keeping the car for a few years then the timing belt would need doing anyway whilst you have the car, so the cost is not a waste.

To use the air con the cabin fan needs to be running first, also the engine fan will run. If it is not working with the cabin fan on then the dealer should have it fixed before you decide to buy the car (could be a pressure sensor/compressor/temperature sensor/possibly a leak/controller fault/fault with one of the fans) and it should be covered by the warranty. If the dealer does a diagnostic on the air con it will give the reason for it not working. At 3 years old it should not need regassing provided the previous owner used it every few weeks so the seals did not dry out. On our C5 and the previous one, I had these regassed at 7 years when they were not cooling down as much, our other Citroens have not needed doing. The eml will come on for any fault that can affect the emissions, so things like cam shaft sensors and other sensors that affect the engine running can put the eml on if they are faulty. Only way to find out which is to use a code reader - when you next go to your dealer maybe they will give you the code if they made a note of it before deleting it. It is worth buying you own code reader since they cost less than a visit to a garage and one that gives some live engine data is more useful, as an example https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html Makes you wonder why the dealer is not fixing the problems, sometimes they will say things will be fixed if you agree to buy a car. If so it should be written down on the sales invoice, then there is no wriggling out later since the cost of repairs comes out of their profit. Possibly if it is later done under warranty the cost is paid by Citroen, rather than the sales team. If the car has the air suspension this can give problems with leaks and I think this was on BBC's Watchdog some time ago.

Since you have just bought the car any faults should be covered by the warranty.

Have a look at these topics. Beware the files are large and take many hours to download. I use the dvds and use the diagrams on the dvds to save the storage it would need on the computer if the diagrams were also put on. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23087-i-need-a-manual-for-my-citroen-c8-22-hdi/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23950-c8-workshop-manual/

The juddering could be the clutch and dual mass flywheel are worn out. Pity the dpf has been removed since the car is not legal and you should tell your insurance company since it has been modified - if you need to make a claim and they find out you could find you are not insured. When a dpf is removed the ecu is usually modified to ignore the dpf and the eolys fluid system, so there is no point in fitting a dpf and adding eolys fluid unless you can also put the ecu software back to original. Similar for the egr valve. You could do with a code reader that does live data to check the cat - the inlet lambda sensor should be constantly switching around 1.0 and the outlet one should be constant. If the outlet one is switching like the inlet then it shows the cat is not doing much. I would also check the battery is not on its last legs or being overcharged since that can give a rotten egg smell which you may think is coming from the exhaust, whereas if you had the smell from the cat it could show the fuel has a high sulphur content and the cat is working.