paul.h

The power supply to the radio can not be direct from the battery if the power goes when the ignition is turned off. There is also economy mode which switches off the power supply after about 30 minutes to protect the battery - this may be your problem if you have connected in to the normal radio supply. Some radios may also have an internal battery to maintain their memory and on first connection need a long time to charge up - if your power is on the economy mode protected side then you need to keep the engine on for a day and keep going for long runs. May be worth looking inside the radio to see if it has a battery.

'I do put it in Neutral alot going down hill.' I am not sure this is a good idea. First if the engine is in neutral it will be using fuel to run at idle speed, when if going downhill in gear with the foot off the accelerator and clutch pedals then the fuel to the engine should be shut off - so in neutral it may use more fuel. Other thing is you are supposed to not have as much control over the car - we have some learner driver books in our house at the moment and this is not advised.

Have you had the rear wheels balanced and did the problems start after or before the front discs and tyres were replaced ? Disc problems are only likely to be bad when applying the brakes.

GS fan, I would continue through Coastline's list, next is to bleed the clutch master/slave cylinder since if there is air in them the clutch will not fully disengage (hence creaping forward and possibly poor gearchange). A pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder may be needed for this. If this fails to help then the master or slave cylinder may be worn. How many miles has the car done and when was it registered ?

It sounds as though it is the engine mounting which supports the driver's side of the engine on to the inner wheel arch. If the liquid is only coming out of a hole in the rubber part then it is possible the mounting is an oil filled type. If so then it looks as if it needs replacing. Also check it is not anti freeze leaking from the expansion bottle which is near this mounting.

According to the Haynes manual, access to the front fog lights is gained through inspection panels below the front wheel arch liners, unplug the electrical connector and then turn the bulb cover. It says the bulb is H1 type but I would check the car handbook or the actual bulb once removed.

It will depend on what model you have. The mirrors are folded manually by physically pushing them on our 1.4 sx petrol, 2003.

Does the rear wash/wipe work - I think the pump may be the same for front and back but turns in opposite directions (if I am wrong somebody will correct me). Check if the pump fuse is ok since the wash starts before the wipe so if the wash does not work then maybe the wipe will not start. Fuse location should be in the handbook.

Welcome to the forum, on one occasion I have had the key fob unable to unlock the doors in a car park so I had to use the key. It has not happened since. I thought may be there was a mobile phone mast or similar that could have caused this.

Welcome to the forum, you are more likely to get a response from the Picasso forum pages via http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk or http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/

Does the mirror selection switch light up on anyone else's car - I have had mine since 2 years old and it did not light up then, so far I have not bothered to check for a failed bulb.

Maybe a lefthand brake is binding. After use see if a wheel hub is hotter or jack up each wheel in turn and see if the wheel can be easily spun by hand (first set the suspension to max height before jacking up, as noted in the car handbook). Listen to see if a wheel bearing is worn. Check the tyres to see if any are different or worn differently.

On the Saabs I have had, the handbrake worked on the rear calipers. Here you would remove a bolt on the calipers to access an allen headed screw which wound the piston in and out to allow caliper and pad removal and on refitting, adjustment to give the right clearance. With your 8mm gap I guess you have re-used the old pads. In the ETAI manual, you can also use pressure bleeding. It says to use 2 bar which is 29 psi. Still need to use the diagnostic tool though to bleed the abs parts.

Wiping efficiency of the flat blades on our C5 is no better than normal ones on our other cars. The part contacting the glass is similar to normal blades. Due to cost I have considered changing the arms so normal ones could be used.

If it is the one at the top of the shock absorber/strut where it joins the body, to hear it you will need to lift the bonnet and turn the steering wheel so the bearing is moved.

In the French ETAI manual, after fitting new front brake pads it says to pump the pedal many times with the engine running. Possibly you have not pumped the pedal enough to get the piston out far enough to reduce the pedal travel. Bleeding the brakes it mentions using usual 2 man method (front left, front right, rear left, rear right), but if air has got in to the abs secondary circuit you will need to use the dealer diagnostic tool. There is no mention of doing anything with a large nut.

What is the problem with the window ? Is it going up part way and then going back down? Mine does this a lot. I have found stopping it (with the switch) just before it reaches the point at which it will go down and then starting it up again will work , or, send it fully down and then send it back up. The anti pinch mechanism probably needs adjusting when I have time/can be bothered.

Members felt this would be a good post to pin at the top. It contains the important points to do the job: - raise the car suspension to its highest level, jack up the car, use axle stands, remove wheel, - use brake cleaner/WD40 in the holes in the caliper to help free the bolts (only needed the first time the caliper is removed when loctite is still down the length of the caliper bolt holes), - remove the brake pad cover bolt/ cover/ brake pads (knock out from below if seized in place) but then refit the bolt which held them in place so the caliper does not split (3.5 Nm so not too tight), - clean the caliper a bit, - use a file/screwdriver to scrape any rust off the brake disc and consider removing the wear ridges but if the discs are worn too thin (less than 12 mm) they must be replaced. Then clean with emery paper (180 grit works ok) to remove any glazing. Leave wiping with brake cleaner until the caliper has been refitted in case any grease gets on the disc. - unclip the caliper brake pipe from the 2 plastic clips on the suspension arm. The pipe will release fully from the clips when the caliper is moved. The brake pipe does not need to be disconnected from the caliper. - undo the caliper bolts enough so the caliper is free (if the loctite has been removed the bolts can be removed completely), - slacken the disc holding screws (I have never had to do this), - move the caliper out and rest it on a 2.5 litre paint tin (or similar), - clean/scrape the corrosion from the back of the caliper and suspension arm using a file (and maybe a drill or emery paper). Clean the pad contact points on the caliper. - apply copper grease to the caliper/suspension arm contact faces or use a gasket made from heavy duty black plastic bag or use the Citroen recommended Loctite formajoint 510 to prevent galvanic corrosion due to contact of the different metals of the alloy caliper and steel suspension arm, - apply copper grease to the caliper where the brake pads contact (it is easier at this point and there is no risk of getting any on the brake disc), - refit the caliper but fit the bottom caliper bolt first since the top one does not line up (before knowing this I fit a top bolt first but cross threaded and snapped it), torque setting 70 Nm, - clean the brake disc with brake cleaner on a tissue/rag, - clean the old brake pads and then rub the friction surface on emery paper (180 grit works ok) on a flat surface, refit the brake pads (or new ones if too worn or not worn evenly), refit the brake pad shims. Use a bit of copper grease down the pad backing plate sides and back and on the shims to avoid seizing/squealing and in the pad retaining bolt holes on the caliper to avoid corrosion (this part of the caliper can corrode and break off). Fit the pad retaining spring and bolt (3.5 Nm) and cover. - refit the brake disc screws (10 Nm) if slackened and the wheel (90 Nm). - use the brake pedal to push out the brake pistons before driving. If new pads are used they will take a few days of normal use to bed in and until then the brakes will not work as well as normal. To remove the loctite from the caliper bolt holes a long 10mm drill could be used but this will require removal of the bolts (do one at a time and refit whilst the other is done) and be carefull not to touch and damage the threaded part in the suspension arm. Officially I think you should inject fresh loctite down the length of the bolts through the holes in the caliper when refitting, I suspect to prevent corrosion between the bolts and suspension arm and if so then copper grease would do, but as a minimum loctite should be used at the bolt end in the suspension arm so they do not become loose. Edited 11/6/2013. Additional notes to help with the bolt removal when there is still loctite down the caliper bolt holes, copied from a 19/10/2008 post and successfully using this method on a mark 1 and mark 2 C5. It was found best to remove/clean up/grease and refit the bolts on a separate day to pad removal/caliper corrosion cleaning due to the time taken: Yesterday I removed the loctite from the driver's rear caliper with the caliper still in place and learnt a bit more (previously I had just undone the bolts enough to clear the suspension arm on this caliper and the other one I had to remove completely before hammering out the bolts). One caliper bolt was removed and the loctite drilled out of its caliper hole whilst the other was kept in place as in the above procedure so the caliper did not split. Once a bolt is undone from the threads on the suspension arm it stopped moving out. After futile attempts with a hammer and also trying a bolt from the back of the suspension arm with the same thread (10mm x 1.25) to push out the bolts, I eventually successfully used a pry bar/crow bar to lever against the back of the bolt head (protected by a large washer) against the caliper (and a piece of wood as the bolt moved further out) whilst continuing to turn the bolt. Gradually the bolts moved out but it still took a lot of effort and time and it was then too late to bother removing the pads and cleaning up the back of the caliper. WD40 and brake cleaner were used in the small holes in the calipers but their benefit was not great (if any). The pry bar I have is a Draper one, L shaped with cut outs for nail removal so this helped keep it against the bolt. There is probably a puller that would make this job easy. The long 10mm drill was a masonary one since these are cheaper. The bolt hole is probably 11mm so the loctite also needed cleaning out with a file and long screwdriver so the bolt is a nice loose fit. A vacuum cleaner helps in removing the mess from the bolt holes. Edit 26/11/2014: Some other posts worth a read: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22077-rear-brakes-to-use-loctite-or-not/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22076-c5-mk1-2001-22hdi-replacing-rear-brake-calipers-and-discs/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22073-c5-mk1-2001-22hdi-advice-on-brake-bleeding/ To see other comments and ask questions about this procedure please use the thread here. Disclaimer Edit 4/9/2015: The post has been edited to better reflect the best order for the various tasks.

Prices of wiper blades seem to have gone up a lot recently. The flat type are ridiculous, a front set for the C5 were over £40 last year, and most cars seem to have these now. I have found Valeo ones give the longest life and lowest noise.

Maybe the problem is not bad enough to give a fault code. I think on Saabs the crank position sensor does not give a fault code and as it got worse poor running would occur and eventually the car may not run at times/all the time - may not apply here. Poor tick over may be caused by carbon build up in the throttle body / throttle plate area.

At the top left side of the firewall the main cable loom goes through. When I fit the towbar I was able to push the 12v supply wires through this. You would struggle with an 8mm cable though but worth a look. Your easiest option may be to drill a new hole.

'squirt brake cleaner in then wd40' When I did mine, WD40 on its own did not help as much as I would have liked so the brake cleaner must be the magic ingredient to reduce the effort with the 500mm breaker bar undoing and removing the bolts. I have experience of stripping the threads in one hole on the suspension arm and then the bolt snapping and have posted this previously on the forum. You can almost imagine in the car factory the technicians laughing as they inject 150mm of loctite on each bolt as the brakes are assembled. Something to note is the bolts are a higher tensile strength than normal high tensile ones - they are 10.9 (usual HT ones are 8.8) and are not widely available. Normal size is 10mm x 150mm. If you strip the suspension arm threads you can put in a longer bolt that goes through the hole and put a HT nut on the back so it needs to be at least 160mm - try and get one of these in 10.9 - I could only get an Allen bolt which is even higher tensile (12.9 I think). Note this may not be an official fix but it worked.

Welcome to the forum. First I would check if the battery connectors are fastened on tight, if loose they may be sparking and giving the noise. The hazard light switch may be faulty. I thought I had seen something similar to this on the forum recently but could not find it on a search, hopefully somebody will come along with a solution.

The cap should not go loose on further tightening, sounds as if the threads are stripped on the cap or bottle - one or both probably need replacing. Do not over tighten though since they are only plastic. One other thing not noted above that can cause loss of coolant from the cap, is if the engine overheats since the radiator fan does not come on when it should. This can be checked by letting the engine idle and watching the temp gauge rise and seeing if the fan starts or water is lost. Also feel the hose to the top of the radiator to see if the thermostat has opened and let hot water go to the radiator to make sure it is not a thermostat problem.

You may have this sorted by now but it reminds me of when the fuel pump on our Saab 9000 failed. It was on about 150k miles. Parked the car then when I returned it would turn over but not fire. The RAC did lots of checks, power at the pump ok and then was able to start the engine for a few seconds by squirting carb cleaner or something similar into the air intake as it was turned on the starter. The car was taken home on the back of a recovery truck (about 3pm on a new years day so a good tip given to the driver). A new pump sorted it, like the C5, it was located in the tank in a combined filter/gauge.