paul.h

Looks as if you need a new stalk, probably dirt on the switch contacts through use.

I think there may be one built into the fuel pump in the petrol tank.

For about £20 you can get a device to plug into your mp3 player ear piece socket that lets it transmit a signal which you then tune the car radio into.

There are a few postings on this, mostly under rear brake squeal since this is often the first symptom. Do a search. As noted by myglaren, it is a case of removing the pads, refit the pad cover retaining bolt to keep the 2 halves of the caliper together, remove one of the caliper retaining bolts (this may be difficult due to loctite down the length of the caliper hole), clean the loctite out of the hole with a drill bit being careful not to damage the suspension arm threads, refit this bolt and repeat with the other bolt, remove both bolts, move the caliper away from the suspension arm enough to be able to clean the corrosion off the caliper and suspension arm faces with a file (should be possible without undoing the brake pipe to avoid bleeding later), put copper grease on both faces and then refit everything. Somebody else may be able to comment on the wheel recall.

There are probably little motors that move the various flaps to give the air distribution/temperature so chances are one of these is not working.

Before disconnecting the battery I think you need to leave the car switched off for 15 minutes or more so the control systems can set themselves. I either read it in the handbook or on this forum. Not sure if any special procedure is needed when it is reconnected. When the battery was a bit low on our C5 (had not been used for a month), it started as normal but then the 'Service' message lit up on the dash. It only cleared after running the car for a few miles and then restarting the engine. On a separate occasion the brake fault light and Service message came on but not the ABS light. I checked the front brakes, found nothing wrong but moved the wear sensor wires in case they had an earth fault as though the pads were worn down. The warning cleared - I can not remember if this happened before the checks or during the checks since it was some time ago but it has not happened since.

The problem here seems to be the C5 is an auto giving poorer fuel economy/performance. Why not sell both and get a manual C5 on a lower mileage.

It appears that the filter, gauge and pump are all one unit inside the petrol fuel tank.

The French Amazon site has them in stock 22.6 euros, just checked. Go into amazon.co.uk and at the bottom of the page click on France and then search on C5. The etai manual for the later C5 has some excellent colour pictures for the servicing which are easy to understand. Then with a little help of a French dictionary it is not difficult to translate the odd word. There are also internet sites that translate if really stuck.

I seem to remember a picture somewhere with the filling bottle hung from a back door (using hook and nylon through the window opening ?) which would then allow the gravity flow. May be the second bottle is to make a funnel which is hung from the door and is topped up from the bottle containing the fluid. Hopefully one of our experts will give the correct use of all the bits in the kit.

As well as grease on the back of the pads, I apply a bit at the sides of the metal backing and the contact points in the caliper so they are less likely to rust/seize up again. At the next service they will also be a lot easier to remove.

May be worth checking the car battery is charged enough. I had not used our C5 for a month and the plipper was not working normally. The battery was down to 11.9 volts. Ran the car for a few miles and was then ok.

The rear pads have probably seized, needing removal, cleaning and refitting with a bit of copper grease down the sides. Providing you do not remove the calipers, they are easy enough to remove but they may need to be knocked out from below. You may also find the front pads are seized in place. Before removing the rear pads, check if the disc is central in the caliper. If not then there could be corrosion between the caliper and hub mounting. This pushes the caliper out and causes brake squeal - cure is to remove the caliper, clean up the contact faces and apply grease before refitting. If you need to remove the rear caliper, search this forum for info - the main problem is the bolts in most cases have loctite down the full length so they are difficult to remove and if you do not leave the pad cover bolt in place then the caliper may split into its 2 halves.

Our 2003 1.4sx has the 2 buttons at each side of the display. Does not show the temperature though, only radio, time and warnings. To adjust the clock, hold one button in (right hand one ?) until the display flashes, then use other button to adjust the flashing value and the first button to scroll through the different values until back at the start.

dtbsz, you have not yet noted which engine your car has - petrol or diesel. Either way, you do not want to run out of fuel which could possibly cause fuel pump damage, never mind the inconvenience. That's why I gave a figure of around 20 miles from the light coming on to start worrying about filling up - the car may give over 50 miles before running out. Just to check mpg to km/litre conversion calcs - our 1.4 petrol gives about 45 mpg = 16 km/litre = 6.25 litres/100 km. You mention 4.5 litres/100 km = 62.5 mpg - to get this you must have a 1.4 hdi diesel engine - based on stimulator's note.

If it is a petrol, injector failure is common. Water leaks under the washer jets and from the jet piping joins and drips onto the injectors causing them to fail as it enters the little holes in the side of the coils. There are some posts on this. So it does not happen again when you are out of warranty, seal under the washer jets and the piping connections. Try a search also.

Welcome to the forum. I think it mentions this in the car handbook. On our C3 (2003 1.4sx petrol), the warning light appears when the fuel level goes to the last segment on the gauge. It is about a 45 litre fuel tank (can not remember actual) so if all the gauge segments are equal, the last segment will be about 7 litres when it is first reached. The car gives 40 to 45 mpg (10 m/litre) so I would allow about 20 miles before I panicked enough to refill the tank. However, if you do not know how many miles ago the warning light came on, then best to refill.

May be you could check the battery voltage, others report odd electrical problems when it is low. With the engine running it should be about 14 volts and about 12.5 volts when not running (check after the car has not run for some time such as overnight). Where is this radio transmitter ?

I have not seen a C5 petrol engine but the Exhaust Gas Recycle pipe is likely to be connected between the cylinder head exhaust manifold and the air inlet manifold/piping. There is probably a valve on it that opens to let exhaust gases into the inlet to reduce the burning temperature in the cylinders and hence reduce the NOx emissions in the exhaust.

If it is caused by the jet wash then you could check that all the electrical connections around the engine are dry by disconnecting each in turn.

There was something like this on here recently and I think it turned out to be the reversing light switch on the gearbox. If you can find it, disconnect the wiring as a test. Also look to see if the reversing lights keep coming on - get a friend to follow you.

The red light will come on when it goes into ecomode i.e. if a light or some other electrical item is on for about 15 to 30 minutes after the engine is switched off, then the power is turned off automatically to save the battery. This is reset when the engine is started.

May be a daft question, but do you have parking assist installed ? On our C5 you always get the beep when the gear lever is put into reverse but it does not have parking assist.

Poke a pin or sewing needle in the washer jet hole - quicker and easier than dismantling.

Welcome to the forum. On the C5 I think the anti freeze is a type that does not need to be replaced every couple of years - have a look in the car handbook, there may be some info in the service schedule. Unless there is a leak it should not need the level topping up. As such it is not the usual blue or green colour. If you give year car model and year others may be able to confirm this. If the level does need topping up this would normally be with a water/anti freeze mix of the correct strength - using just water would lead to corrosion within the engine and possible freezing of the water which could damage the engine block.