paul.h

Halfords are not necessarily the lowest price for a decent battery, last 2 I bought were Exide excell ones from Eurocar parts who are also not the cheapest but if there is a problem during the 4 year guarantee it could go back to any of their shops.

Before the MOT raise the suspension to max height and wipe the front suspension struts in case there is a slight mist of oil on them. This is normal but if you do not use a Citroen specialist/dealer for the MOT it could be given a fail.

If it is definately brake fluid then another caliper may be best. The handbrakes can seize on these and using a penetrating fluid is common so you need to be sure a previous owner has not done this. When replacing the caliper you need to follow procedures so the handbrake works - these topics may help http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/15045-seized-caliper-fix/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/7552-replacing-front-brake-pads-c5-to-2008/ http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/6901-c5-bleeding-brakes-and-replacing-front-brake-caliper/

I have quickly edited where I think you got the wrong letters/key, it made sense without this though so no need to worry about it. It is better to have a post with the odd typing error than no post at all.

Since you do not know how old the faults are and if they have been fixed by a previous owner they should be noted and then erased and then read again after using the car. On my hand held code reader the codes are erased with the ignition on but the engine not running i.e. the dash lit up. If you also have the fault codes note these since it is easier to do an internet search with them. A usual one for the glow plugs I think is P1351. I have never used a Lexia but maybe it can give you data to check the glow plugs. The glow plug light in warmer weather may just flash up but as it gets colder it may show a bit longer. You could try the ignition key with the dash lit up for a few seconds before starting to see if this helps but it could be the plugs need replacing.

On the Common Problems topic there is a battery disconnection/reconnection procedure copied below which has not resulted in odd electrical problems for me. The aim is to not disconnect the battery before the bsi has had time to shut down. If you look in your handbook there will also probably be something. To charge a battery I would at least disconnect the negative cable from it before connecting the charger to the battery terminals to make sure the charger does not cause any problems. Follow the above referenced procedure when disconnecting/reconnecting. Use a voltmeter to decide if it needs charging and to check when it has been charged enough - should be about 12.5 to 12.7 volts before the engine has been started. 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3).

Pleased you found the cause since it is not an obvious one. I will add this to the common problems topic.

Did you check for the 12 volt supply with the engine running or just after stopping it so it was not in economy mode ? Are you having problems with the boot lock since the bsi that puts on the boot lights probably takes a signal from this that the tailgate is open. You could try with the tailgate open but close its lock around a screwdriver to see if this makes a difference and should switch off a supply. If not related to the lock then you may need to check the wiring from the lights back to the bsi - at the light end read the wire number on the wire using a magnifying glass and at the bsi end (glove box fuse box) find the same numbered wire and then check for voltage here and if ok check for continuity along the wire. I had a quick look at your recent posts to see which car you had but could only find a picture of your heater panel indicating it is a mark 1 C5 so I have edited your profile with this info. If you edit this with your car details (year, engine, trim) it saves you having to mention it each time you start a new topic or saves us having to guess.

Thank you for getting back to us, looks as if you have fixed the heater just in time for the cold weather starting.

Whether they will split the pack may depend on if the part is one they are likely to sell easily or be left with it on the shelf. I have used the Pentagon Lincoln dealer a few times and find they are really helpful, do a good job on repairs (used on our C3 a couple of times) but the parts prices seem to be full price and sometimes the quoted repair costs seem high if it is something I could do. Our previous Warrington dealer would often give a discount since we bought a few cars from them but this depended on who served you. Rigbys Chorley Citroen do on-line parts through ebay at a discount so something you could look if the postage is not excessive.

Well done, I suspect the difficulty in getting the Lexia working puts people off getting one. I will link this topic to the Lexia one since it may help others. Our C4 has tyre pressure warnings and a while back we had a puncture so it gave the warning. However when the tyre was repaired and put back the warning did not go until the car was driven so possibly it is a system on this car that uses the abs sensors to detect a different wheel speed.

Before replacing the strut I did try using a tie wrap around the bottom end of the gaiter to stop the oil weaping out but this did not work. I also checked the lower joint on which the boot fastens to see if it was damaged but could not see anything obvious. The leak was not that bad and did not fill the vent pipe that goes in to the rear axle. When you replace the gaiter you put 25 mls of LDS into the gaiter so at first I thought the weap was this oil coming out but then since it carried on it had to be more that this. My car did pass the MOT with the weap but I had it replaced at the next one before it took the test so lived with it for over a year.

Maybe it is the anti pinch that needs resetting. Try taking the window down and then take it up by holding the switch on until the window reaches the top and continue holding for a few seconds. If the battery is ever disconnected this needs doing for all the windows. If you do need to disconnect the battery follow the procedure in the Common Problems topic to avoid possible odd electrical problems by doing it too quickly so the bsi does not have time to shut down and start up. 16. Odd electrical problems caused by wrong battery disconnection procedure. If you need to disconnect the battery and not do a BSI reset procedure, I have found the following has not given me any problems on a 2004 and 2007 C5 and a 2003 C3: - remove the ignition key from the car - open the bonnet - wait a few minutes for the BSI to shut down - disconnect the battery negative terminal When reconnecting - ignition key out of the car - reconnect the battery - wait a few minutes - insert the key in the ignition and wait a minute - turn the key to the first position and wait a minute - turn the key so the dash lights come on and wait a minute - start the engine - take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch - reset the clock (and radio on the C3). This is also from the Common problems topic: 18. Front window anti pinch stops it closing (comes back down a few inches). Check the bottom rubber seal on the window as these start to corrode and apply pressure on to the runner. However, thanks go to Bobster for the following fix on a passenger window 2003 2.2 hdi sx hatchback. Window fault is cured. A general search on the internet found Vauxhall and Saab owners had the same fault. The cure was to put the key in the ignition, remove the fuse to the passenger door then the fuse to the driver's door console, then replace both fuses and the problem was cured. So, I put the ignition key in and turned it to accessories, then I removed fuse 4 from the passenger glove compartment and checked the passenger window switch which was dead, removed fuse 9 and checked the driver's door switches which were also dead. I then replaced both fuses, pressed the passenger window button to 'raise' and the window moved to the top and stayed there! I tried lowering and raising the passenger window using both passenger and door switches and all worked perfectly, job done! This fix also worked for Mike Lane whose window would only go up in increments and after cleaning the switch which did not help, this fix was successfully used. See here http://www.citroen-o...ectric-windows/

I put this on the common problems topic after finding a rear strut slightly dripping LDS fluid, thinking it was the gaiter but in the end this did not stop it and a new strut was put on. The R pin in my case was not rusted in since the leaking fluid must have freed it. It is possible to replace the seals but again this could be more wasted money if a new strut is really needed. The prices below are Citroen dealer ones a few years ago so not pattern parts. 7. Rear suspension strut gaiter leaks oil. It may just need a new gaiter - £7, fastening clip £10, LDS fluid £16, or a new strut. Gaiter replacement is a DIY job but a dealer would need to fit a new strut to guarantee the repair, probably about £230. The rear may also sink a little bit overnight indicating a new strut is needed. If you do an advanced search on 'rear strut' it comes back with lots of posts and among them the following topic is worth a look http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23242-replacing-rear-ram-gaitor/?hl=%2Brear+%2Bstrut&do=findComment&comment=86654

This is from the common problems topic and includes links to other topics about the same problem. On here P0485 gives definition P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Malfunction, but you should check to see if the fault code comes back after it has been deleted. 30. High temperature warnings. This topic by Skyman fixed the problem using a dealer supplied temp sensor after trying a low cost ebay one which did not work http://www.citroen-o...-by-new-sensor/ This occurred on our 2010 C3 1.4 VTI 96 bhp. A check on live data showed the engine coolant temperature was normal yet the high temperature warning was lit and the engine fan was running continually. A visit to the Citroen dealer for a new temperature sensor however brought up that Citroen had just issued a recall for faulty temperature sensors on the EP engines so it would be fixed without cost to ourselves. This is done by replacing the temperature sensor with a new one or as in our case where the temperature sensor is not removeable from the thermostat housing, the housing bleed screw is removed and the temperature sensor is put in its place along with a short wiring loom.

Welcome to the forum. Most Citroens have the outside temperature sensor at the bottom of one of the door mirrors and it looks like a small lump of plastic. These can fail and need replacing which probably needs the mirror removing to get to the wiring which sometimes needs cutting and the new sensor joining back in by soldering or other means. As an example so you know what to look for http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-External-Outdoor-Outside-Temperature-Sensor-under-door-wing-mirror-/321536268553 but I would usually use a Citroen dealer for parts.

Welcome to the forum. It could be the blower that needs replacing. There have been posts on here where replacing the resistor has helped for a while but then also failed since the blower was faulty.

Welcome to the forum. You could look on the service.citroen site parts diagrams for the Characterisitics of your car using its VIN (VIS) to see what was on it when it was made. This is a free service if you register as an other professional non emergency services and as a member of the Citroen Owners Club. You may need to select your language before registering but once on the parts diagrams enter your VIN top left to find your car and then click on Characterisitcs in the left column. http://service.citroen.com/do/changerParametres Most of the Citroens we've owned just had an immobiliser as standard. There have usually been 2 key fobs, one with buttons for the central locking and a second just a key to use in the door locks which is cheaper for Citroen and for the C5 which has an alarm there are no extra buttons. If you only have one key, then if your car has central locking the previous owner may have lost a key fob with buttons and since these are expensive has not bothered to replace it. Inside the keys there is a chip which is detected at the ignition switch for the immobiliser.

Welcome to the forum. Possibly the file size of the photo is too large, you could try again with say 100kb or put the photo on another site and then provide a link to it.

According to the Haynes manual the fuse is in the bsi which is the fusebox in the glove box, just need to pull off the cover at the left side of it which also reveals the diagnostic socket. It then shows F26 40 amp as being below the top row of fuses (on our 2007 C5 these are in a yellow bit). Note though that Haynes is not always accurate and fuses can change over the model years. I have put your car details as your signature to save you needing to mention it every time you start a new topic and to save us guessing. I could not find the model year though in your previous posts but you could add this by editing your profile.

Some of the info here may be of use http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23278-lexia-diagbox-pp2000-topics-18102016/

It is possible it was just coincidence the warning started after doing the work. I have found with central locking if the car thinks any door is not closed it will not lock the car - try it with another door open and you should see the same. Some cars have switches to tell the car the doors are closed but on Citroens I think they are built in to the locks, if so you may need a new lock.

Welcome to the forum. In the handbook with our C4 under using the telephone it has select Private Mode and confirm to take the call on the handset Or select Hands-free mode and confirm to take the call via the vehicle's speakers. So I would guess it means to use the phone for the call and not through the car.

It is good to know there is nothing wrong with the car but just keep an eye/ear on it. We had the service scheme on our C4, used it for its first service but then moved to a different town and got the balance of the money back.

Sounds like a wiring problem to/within a lock so the car does not think the rear is locked. You could check the wiring between the body and rear door in case it has broken, often it will be within the rubber sleeve. Maybe the initialising is not working since the doors will not lock. If you have the spare fob see if that is still working. This is the rear glass door opening fix from the Common Problems topic if you have not seen it: 42. Estate tailgate window does not open or opens on its own when not wanted. This topic contains a fix so it will open. Citroen can supply a repair kit for about £15, part no. 653898. http://www.citroen-o...te-rear-screen/ This topic includes some photos and a fix to stop the window opening on its own (disconnect the solenoid) http://www.citroen-o...ow-opening-fix/