paul.h

The auxiliary belt automatic tensioner could be the problem if it is faulty. Or maybe the new belt is a bit longer than the old one although I would expect the correct one would have been put on. If the crankshaft pulley is one with a rubber insert (damper) these can perish and need replacing so it is a possibility.

Is the car running normally so if needed you can ignore these faults ? Otherwise you may need to check the bsi for any problems such as cracks, poor connections.

How many wires are there in your 3 pin plug and in the 4 pin plugs and are the colours of the wires the same (or the number codes on them) ? Is it just a case of in your existing wiring 2 of the wires join togther so only 3 pins have been used ?

I do not understand what you mean by 'now the bus keeps blowing'

Were you able to see all the way through the narrow channels in the filter to see that they were clear ? I think John meant did it look as if the filter core channels had been drilled through by the previous owner so they were not the normal narrow channels.

Thankyou for getting back to us.

A low cost fault code reader will only read engine fault codes that can have an effect on the exhaust emissions. They will not let you check the suspension or other electrics/sensors on the car. For the pump fuse to blow, provided it is the correct rating, it must be taking more power than normal. So it could have an internal fault or a wiring or connector fault. You may need to replace the pump but you could check if the lds fluid level is ok. There are a few different part nos. for the pump depending on whether an estate or hatchback and also if heavy duty suspension is fitted. I believe a replacement pump would need configuring to your car.

Welcome to the forum, Hooo has not been on here since 2011 so it is unlikely your post will be seen but you could try a message via his/her profile. Citroen radios are coded to the car on which they are originally installed and if put in a different car the beep is given unless it is then coded to the new car. I have no idea how Hooo decided that removal of that capacitor was a fix for the beep and there have been no other posts to confirm if it works. Other than a dealer, there may be people advertising on the internet who can decode a radio.

The bsi is the cabin fusebox under the dash. If you have a handbook it will list the fuses.

For the 2.0 hdi 90 bhp engine from the service box procedures the injectors are held by a single nut holding the injector clamp in place. So it is a case of disconnecting the battery (procedures always say this, but if it is necessary I do not know), disconnecting the injector electrical connector, removing the fuel return pipe from the injector, undoing the fuel pipe unions using 2 spanners so the pipe does not twist, removing the injector clamp nut and clamp. Then if you are lucky the injector will pull out - if not the procedures say to remove the clamp stud and then apply a spanner in the injector cut out to lift the injector out. Open fuel pipes should be plugged to keep dirt out. It says the clamp nut, the injector seal and the injector sealing ring should all be renewed. When refitting, fully tighten the clamp nut (30 Nm) and fuel pipes (25 Nm) once they are all in place. If more than 1 injector is being removed then when fitting the following is given: 4. RefittingESSENTIAL : Replace the removed diesel injection high pressure pipe(s).Remove the diesel injector well blanks.Refit :The clamp locating shims ( 8)The injector seals (6) (new)The injector sealing rings (7) (new)The diesel injectors (5)The clamps (9)The clamp cups (10)The clamp nuts (11) (new) (without tightening)Refit the diesel injector high pressure supply pipes as follows :Fit the diesel injector pipes for cylinders 2 and 4Tighten the unions on the diesel injectors and on the fuel high pressure common rail by hand to the end of the threadTighten the injector fixing nuts (11) of cylinders 2 and 4 to 3 ± 0,3 m.daN By means of tools [1], [4] and [5]Fit the diesel injector pipes for cylinders 1 and 3Tighten the unions on the diesel injectors and on the fuel high pressure common rail by hand to the end of the threadTighten the injector fixing nuts (11) of cylinders 1 and 3

:)

Welcome to the forum. Which engine, what year and how many miles ? If the egr and turbo faults are showing together then it could be a split/holed vacuum pipe. So check all the pipes to the actuators are in good condition before even thinking about anything expensive. This is from the C5 Common Problems topic: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11. C5 2.2 hdi 136 hp only, swirl plate diaphragm actuator ball cup breaks. Vacuum leak/turbo fault codes (any engine). Located at the left end of the cylinder head. Symptoms may be loss of acceleration, engine management light, increased fuel economy. The plastic ball cup may be replaced on its own (10 mins) or the complete actuator replaced (several hours DIY), about £20 but the cup is not available separately. This topic has a few notes on how to replace the part http://www.citroen-o...ragm#entry40936 There is a diy fix here if not able or want to get the dealer part http://www.citroen-o...-to/#entry82945 I read in Car Mechanics a case where the actuator had a vacuum leak which resulted in the engine management light and limp mode and fault codes for over boost and turbo regulation fault. The slow loss of vacuum reduced it also to the turbo wastegate so turbo boost level dropped, the ecu then increased the boost control duty cycle which then deactivated the swirl control increasing the vacuum boost and tripping the EML/limp mode. These fault codes have also been reported here and it turned out to be a split in the vacuum pipe to the egr valve actuator - so any cause of a vacuum leak should be looked for before touching the turbo.

The mark 2 C5 front wheel arch liner uses 8211WV hog rings (still look like plastic rivets with a square peg in the middle), the previously mentioned 6991X7 plastic rivets, plastic nuts 712731 and a screw 692510. Whenever I need to get something like this I usually get a couple of spares.

Your car looks good, what was the rear bumper removed for ?

If it is the belt and tensioner then I would replace them. If still the original ones and 10 years old then they are due for replacing anyway. It could also mean the pump and rack did not need replacing. I hope the garage that replaced the timing belt also replaced the timing belt tensioner, pulleys and water pump since it is normal to do this since they also wear out. Is it a Citroen dealer you are using for your repairs/servicing ?

Welcome to the forum. Maybe the belt driving the pump is not tight enough and is slipping so it could be a problem with the belt tensioner. The belt would have been removed when the timing belt was done, did the problems all start after this ?

Steve, just shows how you can read things differently if not written clearly and then waste a lot of time - I thought maybe the dpf had been removed and then put back but I suspect you are right and the dpf is no longer there. I have edited the first post which may help.

I had to replace the diaphragm on our 2004 C5 2.2 hdi when the plastic cup broke which is a common problem but the actuator part of it worked ok. When replaced, I noticed that when the engine was started the actuator arm moved, so something you could check. It was a bit awkward to replace and I have posted on it but maybe on the C8 it may not be as bad. This is from the C5 Common Problems topic: 11. C5 2.2 hdi 136 hp only, swirl plate diaphragm actuator ball cup breaks. Vacuum leak/turbo fault codes (any engine). Located at the left end of the cylinder head. Symptoms may be loss of acceleration, engine management light, increased fuel economy. The plastic ball cup may be replaced on its own (10 mins) or the complete actuator replaced (several hours DIY), about £20 but the cup is not available separately. This topic has a few notes on how to replace the part http://www.citroen-o...ragm#entry40936 There is a diy fix here if not able or want to get the dealer part http://www.citroen-o...-to/#entry82945 I read in Car Mechanics a case where the actuator had a vacuum leak which resulted in the engine management light and limp mode and fault codes for over boost and turbo regulation fault. The slow loss of vacuum reduced it also to the turbo wastegate so turbo boost level dropped, the ecu then increased the boost control duty cycle which then deactivated the swirl control increasing the vacuum boost and tripping the EML/limp mode. These fault codes have also been reported here and it turned out to be a split in the vacuum pipe to the egr valve actuator - so any cause of a vacuum leak should be looked for before touching the turbo.

It may be a different size to the ones you need, it gives the Peugeot part no. as 699783 which is also the Citroen part no. It also looks slightly different. You need part no. 6991X7

Is the fuel filter still full of air before you start the car and it is taking half a minute to fill up ? The speed pick up when starting may be it is just starting to fire up rather than anything else. Have you checked the battery positive and earth cables/connections and to the engine/gearbox and starter motor ? Maybe an earth point needs cleaning or the earth strap to the gearbox from the body is in poor condition. You could try to measure the voltage at the battery and the starter when turning it over to see if there is a large drop at the starter end compared to the battery and see if there are any cable hot spots after switching the ignition of before it actaully starts, suggesting cable damage. Being a 2003 diesel, it did not need to be OBD compliant so not all code readers will work on your car and even then people have found they do not all work on C5s. Reading the engine fault code may be the big clue we need to solve this, maybe the cam shaft sensor is faulty or some other sensor. To see the code for the ASR/ESP fault needs more than just a low cost reader which will only do engine fault codes. Being a 2.2 hdi, at the gearbox end of the cylinder head is an actuator arm with a plastic socket on it for the swirl flaps. This can break and give the ASR/ESP fault. A new part called a diaphragm was around £20 a few years ago but you can just swap the plastic socket from the new part.

Welcome to the forum. Maybe an oil change could help.

By ports I guess you mean switch stalks. The indicator and wiper stalks are part of the unit but the cruise control and radio (?) control stalks are separate parts that plug in. So what looks like a 3 stalk unit might possibly be changed to a 4 stalk one if the extra stalk is plugged in. However, I have no experience of this so am not sure. I do not know if the insides of the units can be swapped over. I vaguely remember people adding cruise control to C5s by plugging in the cruise stalk and a few other bits.

Which engine is it - petrol or diesel and does it have a dpf if diesel ? Are you sure it is the exhaust and not a manifold gasket or a fuel injector/cylinder head seal that is blowing ? Whenever I have replaced exhausts I use a bit of exhaust paste on the joints so they seal, just relying on the metal to metal joint can leave small gaps.

Welcome to the forum. We had a 2003 C3 and I vaguely remember that button did not do anything. If you have the car handbook it may say different. On a 2004 C5 I think that button was used to set the auto headlights on or off. If you have auto lights then you will also have a light sensor at the top of the inside of the windscreen.

I do not know if this is a possibility but the imobilser could prevent it starting. Have you tried both keys in case one is not being recognised ?