paul.h

Never used them but many companies other than ebay let you pay through your pay pal account, not their account. This is supposed to give you some protection if things go wrong but if it is their account then maybe you should find out why before doing anything. Being based in Germany, it could get awkward if the parts are not quite right so something to consider.

The service box procedures do not mention anything specific about the crankshaft pulley, so it must just rely on the woodruff key to keep it in the correct position and the flywheel locking tool so the crank timing is correct.

I would expect once the steering rack has been replaced the problem should be gone for many years. If it is the column input shaft seal that is leaking, the shaft seems to rust which could wear the seal away, so as a precaution the shaft could be greased. Whether you take it back to the garage may depend on what they are going to do to fix it and whether your time (or theirs if they collect the car) is more valuable than the cost of you paying for a repair. You could also ask the garage if they would pay for the repair to be done locally.

Have you also checked the fuse list in your handbook ?

If a common complaint your dealer may already know what needs doing. We had a rattle on our last C4 and it turned out the fix was a tie wrap around the air inlet on the ducting for the air filter. Every service this tie wrap was replaced.

Welcome to the forum. A Citroen dealer should sell the right parts, other options are to try for used ones from a breakers. If you search on ebay for C1 breaking you may find one. If you just want to put covers over the existing ones then make sure any air bags in the seats are not covered. If the blue bulbs are not the same as originals then this may be classed as a modification for insurance purposes so would need to be declared to the insurer. It is unlikely there would be any effect on the premium but stops them using it as an excuse to not pay if you ever need to make a claim. Car accessory shops sell bulbs also and Halfords do but tend to be expensive.

P1113 IAT Sensor Open/Short P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input I am not sure whether you meant either of the above since the codes are usually just 4 digits. Both of these though are the inlet air temp so and usually this is part of the air flow sensor (MAF) so you may need a new one of those to get the engine out of limp mode and running properly, regardless of the battery problems. However, looking at the parts diagrams, the 1.6 petrol TU5 engine does not appear to have a MAF, just a MAP so the inlet air temp does not seem to be measured. If not done already, delete the fault code and see if it comes back, also if your code reader does live data see what IAT it is giving to see if the value is about right - before starting the engine will be about the ambient temp around 10°C but will go up a bit to possibly around 30°C as the engine gets hot. If your usual drives are just around the block, then this would not be enough to keep the battery charged up.

I think it is always good advice to disconnect the battery before disconnecting any ecu. On the C5 the suspension pump stays live when most other things are shut down so disconnecting the battery before unplugging or plugging back in the pump is probably a must. On the Technical section there are pinned topics, one for a bsi reset and another of common problems which has a procedure for just disconnecting/reconnecting the battery to avoid odd electrical faults.

If it is a supply problem from Citroen you could consider used parts. An ebay search on C5 breaking came up with this as an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-C5-Diesel-HDI-Estate-2002-Breaking-for-Spare-Parts-/252312629290?fits=Model%3AC5&hash=item3abf01302a:g:jEUAAOxylpNTVUuB Unless the leaks are bad, there is not really any rush to fix the car. I had a slight drip on a rear strut from the end of the gaiter. I tried a new gaiter but in the end needed a new strut but from finding the leak to replacement was around a year but it only dripped a bit now and again.

You can read/copy/print in sections the car handbooks here (select your language first and then the car and then the year). These contain the official mpg for the various engine and gearbox options. http://service.citroen.com/ddb/ That mpg may have been short trips and round town - one reason for an auto is for a lot of town use queueing to save the left leg clutch changes. You also have not given the engine size. If it has been used for short trips then the brakes may be worn - when bought at 3 years old our latest C3 was on 30 something mpg average but had only done 12k miles. It was not long before I had to replace the front discs and pads. The steering does not have a cooler pipe, just oil pipes. If you have read the topic on steering rack leaks it has cases of apparently leaking pipes that were the rack but also pipes that have corroded. even the pipes are expensive. If the car is from a dealer you need some guarantee the oil leak will be fixed, whatever it turns out to be since it may need a rack and pipes. The high level stop light is not needed for the MOT, but if it fills with rain then it would be best to replace it, probably around £50+ for a new one - but if the car is at a dealer then you could ask for it fixing if you want the car.

That code reader should work on your car but you are best to get the supplier to confirm this. The diagnostic socket has to be within reach of the driver's seat but is connected to the bsi (cabin fuse box). So have a look at the fuse box first. On a C3 and 2001 to 2008 C5 the socket is next to this fuse box, on our C4 it is at the bottom of the dash central panel, hidden away, on a 2008 on C5 it is at the bottom of the central arm rest compartment.

Possibly your lock is in the early stages of failing and not opening at all may happen later.

You could also try a bit of soapy water (or something like wd40 but keep it off the brakes) on the cv joint boots and do the car park circles again, just to see if it is the rubber bellows rubbing against itself. The link did not work, possibly since my internet is slow.

If you find a dpf has been removed or drilled through, the ecu software will have been changed also. To put all this back would cost quite a bit but without a working dpf the car may not pass the MOT and may/would not be insurable when the modification was declared. Cleaning the dpf will be the same as the C4.

Welcome to the forum. This is from the Common Problems pinned topic: 14. Rear door will not open from the inside and outside. This has not happened to our C5s but it is a common problem. To fix: remove the door card, it is awkward with the door shut but can be done once removed, follow the rod to the door lock and remove the white plastic cover now try to look into the door and you will see the insides of the lock use a screwdriver and push the lever down on the inside of the lock and the door will open replace the lock with a different one.

The 1.6 hdi MAF has a different part no. possibly 1920GV so it will not work on your car.

If you buy a code reader one that gives some live data of the engine sensors is better. As an example this one from Gendan https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_FXNT200.html Limp mode is if there is an engine management fault, the engine is run in a preset condition (such as fuel/air ratio) so the car can be run home or to a garage but the performance is limited so the exhaust emissions are not too great. That device is a fuel pressure regulator set at 3.5 bar so I do not think your problem is related to it. On earlier models it was installed on the end of the fuel rail at the engine end but needed a long return pipe to the tank. There is a procedure that is probably not relevant now you have run the car: New 3,5 bar fuel pressure regulator.New engine management ECU (with long pre-control of the fuel pump).4. Identification4.1. Identifying the fittingsNew assembly : The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the fuel tank.Previous assembly : The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the end of the injector supply rail. 5. InterchangeabilityCAUTION : Mixing old and new parts is prohibited.N.B. : Rebuild the parts corresponding to the original description.Both old and new parts are available from the Replacement Parts Division. 6. Repair6.1. RecommendationsESSENTIAL : Pressurise the "new assembly" fuel circuit in the following cases : After any work requiring the fuel circuit to be opened. After replacing the engine management ECU. After a downloading operation.Pressurising the fuel circuit requires a procedure called "long pre-control" of the fuel pump.The long pre-control of the fuel pump is used to fill and pressurise the supply circuit with fuel.The long pre-control therefore prevents starting from taking too long (several tens of seconds). 6.2. Pressurising the fuel supply circuit : First methodErase the faults.Test the fuel pump actuators 2 times Using a diagnostic tool.N.B. : An actuator test lasts 10 seconds. 6.3. Pressurising the fuel supply circuit : Second methodErase the faults.Switch off the ignition.Depress the accelerator pedal fully.Switch on the ignition.Hold the pedal fully down (for 1 second) : The fuel pump operates for between 20 and 30 seconds.Switch off the ignition after the fuel pump stops.

The faults you have listed do not affect the exhaust emissions so will not put the eml on. The eml is only for faults that can affect the exhaust emissions so the car does not pollute the atmosphere too much. So things that alter the performance of the engine (engine management) have sensors that if outside of expected values will put the eml on, such as a camshaft sensor fault, the exhaust catalyst not working, the lambda sensors not working so that the fuel mixture is not set correctly, etc.

Have a look at the C5 Technical section Common Problems topic and there is a section linking to a LED drl topic but more fitting LED bulbs instead of normal ones. Take the steering rack oil leaks seriously when checking a car over since to fix can cost around £400 to 1000 depending on whether a reconditioned or new rack is installed. Also check the front wipers work, again a few £100 to fix. Make sure the exhaust dpf has not been removed or drilled through, with it working the exhaust tailpipe inside on our cars has been clean metal, if not and it is covered in soot then the dpf may not be there. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/20279-common-problems-rev-522016/ If looking at around 120k miles then the timing belt will be due as well as the exhaust dpf. If you do not need an auto then why even bother looking at one, it would cost more in maintenance, fuel and tax ? Do you intend to use the car for towing ?

What length of trips is the car normally doing, are they just short ones with frequent starts and stops so the battery does not get charged back up after starting ? I would do the battery voltage checks already mentioned before doing anything else. If you do not have a meter then a more than adequate one for car and household use can be bought for less than £10 such as this from Toolstation http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Electrical/d190/Electrical+Test+Equipment/sd3348/Digital+Multi+Meter/p11867 Other places sell similar meters for around the same price. Before starting the engine the battery voltage should be about 12.5 to 12.7 volts. With the engine running the voltage should be about 14.4 volts quite soon after starting. If less and it is taking time to get there then the alternator may be undersized or there may be a wiring fault or earth connection fault. The alternator size ranges from 80 to 120 amps depending on the equipment on the car. We had a C5 owner who had electrical problems after fitting a lower powered alternator than needed and the problems went once the correct size was installed. Battery faults are not likely to put the eml on, this is for faults that can affect the exhaust emissions. To pick up other faults would need a Citroen Lexia diagnostic tool as used by a Citroen dealer but Chinese copies are available for less than £100 to install on a lap top. When doing a battery disconnection/reconnection do not do it too quickly since the bsi needs time to shut down and start up - there is a procedure in the C4 Technical section Common Problems pinned topic.

Welcome to the forum. It sounds as if the car is in limp mode. With the MAF unplugged does the engine management light (eml) on the dash light up ? When you first switch on the ignition the eml should come on until the engine has run for a few seconds, if it is not doing this then maybe the bulb has failed. It could well be the MAF, you should check its wiring and electrical connector in case they are the problem rather than the MAF itself. Ideally a code reader would be used to see what is the fault but OBD compliance on diesels was not required until 2004 so a low cost one may not work on your car. Have a look at this topic since it is possible the wiring could be the problem http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/22333-air-flow-meter-wanted/ The MAF Citroen part no. may be 1920LC (check using your VIN) and other engines have a different part number. An ebay search shows this part is also on some Fords and if you need a new one then copies are around £60, but copies do not always work as well as originals.

I would suspect the front brakes, even though they have been done. You could jack up each side and turn the wheel to see if you can hear anything, then use the foot brake and then see if the brakes are fully released. Also check the brake back plates are well clear of anything rotating.

Welcome to the forum. A bit more info might help - What car is it, what year and how many miles - is the servicing up to date A photo of the part would help and is it an electrical connector or pipe.

It is possible the battery is faulty, is not the right size, the alternator drive belt is slipping, the alternator is faulty, the alternator is not the right one (if under powered it will not charge the battery enough), there is a wiring/connection fault. Did the garage fit new parts ?

Welcome to the forum. If it is not any of the brakes needing cleaning then possibly it is one of the engine belt pulleys - see if it is rpm or road speed related. You could also see if it is a loose wheel centre plastic cap. Also see if lightly touching the clutch pedal stops the noise in case it is the clutch release bearing. Other possibilities include a wheel bearing, driveshaft bearing or cv joint.