coastline taxis

the clunking noise is the clutches activating when the electro magnets are activated by pressing the on/off button

What year is it and when it runs on the easy start does it sound ok

Where you been sifaan you havnt been on for a while good to see you back. Now down to buisness yours is a petrol model and we had one in a couple of years ago with a misfire on the injectors with the same symptoms as yours. after checking everything it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor as this tells the ecu when and which injector to fire. But due to the fact that you have wiring issues you really need to check the wiring from the crank sensor to the ecu and also ecu to injectors for breaks and continuity

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yes it should, and if yours isnt then its a new lock thats needed

cheapest 1st

if its got live data then go into it and see what the engine is doing

What scanner are you using this is what came up on ours for your codes (snap on solus pro) po113 relates to the temperature in the maf being to high. So youve either put a cheap discount store maf on or a goosed second hand one. the second code will probally be a victim of the 1st code . Quick test is to unplug your maff and see if theres any diference to the drive if there no diference then youl need to change it.

think it would be better to stick to total lds fluid because if there wrong they wont pay to replace the parts that the wrong fluid will kill

Its quite a common problem on the rear doors heres what you need to do remove the door card. Its awkward with the door shut but can be done once removed follow the rod to the door lock and remove the white plastic cover now try to look into the door and you'll see the insides of the lock. Use a screwdriver and push the lever down on the inside of the lock and the door will open. replace the lock with a different one. Im assuming you havent got a child lock on

we can do a conversion in a day. We use a crowbar on the fulcrum arm and pull it of the thrust bearing.and if your doing the job correctly then youl chanege the fulcrum arm and nose cone aswell and weve had no problems with the solid flywheels at all

when it cuts out are you getting engine management light on. and as paul said you need a diagnostic on the car or youl go bankrupt trying to find the fault.

Why dont you stick around and maybe put a posting up on how to change the pump for those that dont know how to and glad your sorted

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The part that the wires go into will be a solinoid (round black tube with 2 rubber pipes) remove this and shake it if it rattles its fine if not its goosed also check all the vacum hoses going to and from it for leaks,splits or cracks. For future reference the service indicator is the little spanner that appears just above the odemeter. Was it a private sale and how long you had the car

hang on hang on hang on stop your giving yourself extra work. Undo the track rod from the hub then the 4 bolts holding the ball joint then prize inner cv joint slack from the box then just pull the whole leg towards you and the cv joint will clear the box and you can do the seal.but The crunching is due to the syncromesh in the box. water gets into the box were the selecter rod goes thru the casing and wrecks the oil.you can buy the syncro seperate but there not cheap and a pain to fit. you might want to consider another box

sorry we got steels and a couple of vtrs

We change the fluid every year in our cars (only cause we get it back in tax mind) and it does make a tremendous difference to the ride quality. bleed/drain nipples are next to the ride hieght adjusters. dont worry to much about bleeding the system as the car will normally bleed itself. The problem that sometimes happens is that the fluid dosnt go straight into the pump. So put a carrier bag over the resivoir filler poke a little hole in it get the pump working and give it a little blow and that normally does the trick then a few citrobotics and the system will be fine. Im slightly confused though as to how the suspension is on full with no fluid when it should be right on the bottom. Any way to drain it we put a tube over the nipple ( WITH THE CAR SUPPORTED ON AXLE STANDS ) and open it slighty and let all the fluid go into a bucket th then top system up with fresh lds fluiden repeat on the front

split or broken vacum pipe or solenoid or the expensive bit is a split diaphram in the turbo. Thats assuming youve checked all the wiring. What scanner are you using for your codes does it have live data

Any really we use snapon solus pro. lexia. and a little £30 elm unit (which is really good ) plug it in and go to the suspension and check for fault codes. It sound like its a wiring issue then as the pump does work. are you any good with a multimeter and have you had any work done on the car prior to the fault happening

What type of wheel is it as weve got a few lying around

quick tip if your cable has cracked or deteriated then cover them in copperslip as the tester isnt aloud to remove it and cant see the cable. Same with suspension and brake pipes

remove the cd player .once out remove top and bottom covers on the player and push the cd out.

hello there and welcome. looking forward to your input

have you got acsess to diagnostic equip and what part of the country are you. And just a daft one as a few have done it you did have the engine running when you were moving the adjuster. What position is the suspension in now all down,all up,front down back up or back down front up. Also is the power steering ok