DickieG

It could well be that the gasket has gone again, due to a a warped or craked cylinder head. It might also be something relatively simple such as the radiator cap not fitted correctly or needing renewing to a leaking hose or radiator. Don't overlook the simple things before thinking the worst! Generally if the headgasket was at fault for a loss of water, you'll have signs such as poor running or steam emitting from the exhaust to a horrible creamy mess within the oil.

The sphere's need changing as they have lost gas, get new ones from http://www.gsfcarparts.com/ . If you do a search on here I'm pretty sure you will find info on how to change them.

It may well be the seat belt pre-tensioner connection wire under the seats becoming detatched, they get kicked by rear passengers and items moving under the seat.

Follow the advice from KFK in your last post on the subject as he gives a correct description of the procedure. Normally it takes just a few seconds to reprogram a remote. The led on the remote only illuminates for a second or so.

Nothing to worry about as it's quite usual.

I'm pretty sure that an 'm' reg Xantia diesel wasn't fitted with an immobilser. The red LED relates to the alarm which you should be able to turn off via a switch under the bonnet on the scuttle. Have you tested for faults with the glowplugs and fuel leaks (squeeze the primer bulb) does this make a difference?

Take a look at the fuel solonoid cut off valve located on the pump. Is the wire still connected/is it receiving a feed? If it is remove it then pull out the plunger, refit the valve without the plunger and see if the engine starts. If it does you'll need to stall the car to stop it but at least you will have diagnosed the fault . Have you checked that the timing belt hasn't slipped/snapped?

I'm pretty sure you need to buy the whole thing as an assembly for aroud £70-80 IIRC. In answer to your questions on your other posting there are two types of keyfob, the later ones work via a radio signal so do not have an infra red eye. Whilst they are similar in shape, they are larger in size. You can also identify the later ones as the two buttons on them are much smaller. I can't say whether other Citroen remotes will work on a Xantia. You should be able to get a working Xantia one from ebay for £25 or less. To reprogramme a keyfob press the button nearest the infra red eye.

Does the car start at all just after getting pressure on the priming bulb? After a short period pressure normally falls via the leak off pipes. Have you checked that the glowplugs are working correctly? If you can give further details of work undertaken then I can narrow down the areas to look.

Generally the infra red keyfobs stop working due to the 'eye' becoming detatched from the circuit board which can sometimes be repaired by soldering. Reprogramming a new one is easy, turn the ignition on without starting the engine then 'fire' the new remote very close to the sensor behind the mirror. The key under the bonnet only silences the siren and will have no effect on the central locking. The dash button turns off the interior sensors, by just before getting out of the car pressing the button until the red LED on the dash illuminates.

Take a look at the wires where they run into the tailgate, it may be that the constant moving as the tailgate is opened/closed has bent then so much that they have snapped.

The level indicator is the larger/lower one of the two, yellow/orange Citroen must be colour blind :P . To be honest don't worry if it's slightly overfilled as the worst case scenario is that you'll suffer spillage which provided it's not too severe will just make a mess. If however large amounts of LHM spill out and drop onto the collant hoses below then that will rot them :( To get an idea of what LHM does to normal rubber drop a little over an old wiper blade and watch it turn frilly in seconds :lol: .

That 'red thing' is the LHM level indicator. To check the level, with the engine running and the suspension set to it's highest position the float should be between the two lines (at the upper end).

Apologies here for a wrong posting. :P

What version do you have in it? i.e. Does the engine run off an ecu?

As the handbrake is also on the front calipers you'll need to wind back the piston into the caliper otherwise you'll damage the caliper. This can either be done with the correct tool or a square shafted screwdriver for instance. Depending upon the model Xantia you have you may need a size 55 Torx bit to undo the caliper retaining bolt, also unclip then pull out the handbrake cables to avoid damaging them as you swing the caliper upwards. ABS has no influence on the job.

To answer your questions in turn, 1, Yes you can, turn the ignition onto it's first position then 'fire' the new remote, job done! 2, Yes it will as there is no immobiliser within the key on MK1 Xantia's. 3, If the LHM fluid level is above the marker no harm will be caused just the risk of spillage. 4, Cam cover gasket is one possibility, rear camshaft seal or head gasket are others. 5, Yes it is DIY, you'll need to lock the engine, camshaft and pump in position. The last two being done with bolts whereas the engine needs a bent rod or 8mm drill inserted behind the starter motor. If the camshaft cover is secured by bolts there is an odd one (11mm IIRC) hidden on the rear side. Take a close look at the water pump and tensioner while you're there. No 'special' tools required.

Two areas I've discovered that have caused a lack of power under similar circumstaces are firstly a build up of sludge/bacteria around the filter on the fuel pick up in the fuel tank restricting the flow of diesel. To gain access, lift up the base of the O/S rear seat, pull out the rubber bung, unclip the pipes and turn to locking ring (might need a gentle tap to break the seal) and lift the assembly out of the tank. The second issue was the air intake pipe under the air filter collapsing, resticting air rather than fuel this time! If your car is a XUD rather than HDi, are there any problems staring the car first thing in the morning? If there are then that would indicate a leak on a fuel pipe generally within the engine bay, the problem with such leaks is that as the fuel line is under suction rather than forced pressure, air is sucked in but rarely does fuel leak out making tracing the fault rather difficult.

I agree it's more than likely a wheel sensor, generally the N/S/F one is the one to go. You can test the sensor yourself with an OHM meter where you should get a reading of 1098ish OHM's if all is OK.

Hmm, what exactly do you mean by "He hardly moves"? If you mean the car stays in first gear for a while after the initial start up in the morning than that is normal in order to warm up the gearbox oil. As for "Sealed for life" well they're not! There is a drain plug at the bottom of the sump and depending upon age, the refill is done via the dipstick or filler plug at the rear of the box. Less than half of the oil (8 litres total) can be drained each time so several changes are required if you wish to do a complete change. Bear in mind that if the oil isn't changed then the boxes have a habit of failing @ 100K miles. Now the worrying bit bearing in mind your comment about the mechanic. These boxes are VERY sensitive to the oil level being correct (not under or over filled) and only one type of oil (Citroen part number 9736.22) can be used. If Dextron or similar oil is used it WILL destroy the box.

Hydropneumatic Citroen brakes work differently from other cars in that they are powered by the high pressure pump. When you press down on the brake pedal you open a valve to allow the fluid (LHM) to pass through the valve to the brakes, whereas on other cars you (the driver) create the pressure by the action of pushing down on the brake pedal. Models equipped with this system of braking include DS, SM, CX, XM, GS, BX and Xantia but not the C5 which has a 'traditional' system.

When the snow and sports mode light illuminate together it indicates that a fault has been recorded in the gearbox ecu which puts the gearbox into limp home mode. What you need to do is to visit either a dealer or a diagnostic centre to get the fault codes read from the gearbox ecu. What sort of mileage has the car done, 100,000 by any chance? The reason I mention that is that Citroen state that the gearbox is "Sealed for life" i.e. Its not necessary to change the gearbox oil, however unless its changed at regular intervals the boxes have a tendency to fail at 100,000 miles ;) whereas when the oil is changed the boxes last very well indeed.

Yes I've used both types offered by Citroen, one is a metal grille, the other a fabric mesh which can be rolled up. My Berlingo has the Modutop, but with both of them being made by Citroen they clip into the holes behind the blanking plates on the side panels. I'm about to put the metal grille one on ebay very soon, PM me if you're interested.

It's located at the rear of the engine, position yourself on the nearside and look for an alloy coloured ribbed pipe running to the exhaust manifold where you will find the EGR valve. What's wrong with it? If you wish to disconnect it simply pull the rubber hose off of the relay located on the bulkhead above the gearbox.

If its not the UJ, then is the auxilliary belt slipping? This could be down to an old belt or even a worn crank pulley. Failing that then is the LHM clean? It should be a very bright luminous green colour, if not then it may be that the filters within the LHM tank require cleaning. If the LHM is yellow or even worse black, then flush out the old LHM and replace with Hydraflush (buy it from GSF @ £15) and run it in the car for 1000 miles which may solve the problem. If they don't solve it, you're then onto new pump/steering rack etc.