DickieG

It could well be a faulty ignition switch, a well known Xantia weakpoint. Try wiggling the wiring at the back of the switch to see if it makes a difference.

I replaced my original 2.0 HDi with a 1.6 HDi last December, its got the new seat material and lighter rear lights. Being a Desire with air con it comes with rain sensing wipers and computer which displays outside temperature, average and current fuel consumption, distance since last fill up and range/fuel left etc. Its relatively accurate when I've done my own brim to brim checks bearing in mind speedo accuracy etc. I'm not sure whether the computer is standard (old-timers as I'm now 47 :rolleyes: )

Unless its changed very recently the Lingo doen't have a particulate filter and therefore no Eloys fluid :D .

Yes, Dante' Red, aren't they all that colour?

I have the same tyres and agree with the comments on wear, I don't charge around in the Lingo (I have a Xantia Activa for that :lol: ) so I can't really comment on handling etc.

Steady on Old Boy :lol: Joking aside, my 1.6 HDi has a fuel computer which makes for interesting viewing, increasing speed from 65 to 75 mph normally results in an drop of around 10 mpg :( On Saturday I drove west along the M4 averaging just the low 40's mpg, return journey was over 50 mpg :D both journeys at the same speed, showing the effect of a head/tailwind. The additional drag caused by the brick shape of the Lingo clearly has significant effect on fuel consumption at speed, this is also bourne out by comparing the top speed of the Lingo with other cars using the same engine where the Lingo is around 10 mph slower.

Is the problem at both ends? If it's just one then I'd say a stiff height controller, it would be unusual for both to stick at the same time.

Its quite often due to a faulty ignition switch as the fan is fed directly from there. Try wiggling the key in the lock or better still remove the column housing and wiggle the wires direct, also feel for excess heat on the switch itself, indicating faulty switch contacts. The other common fault with the fan motor is faulty diodes, however when this happen I understand that the fan only runs on maximum speed.

Be careful removing the rubber supply pipe as its prone to splitting and a new one will set you back £150 :D . The securing clip will need to be replaced with a jubilee clip, make sure that its tight enough to prevent air being sucked in because that will cause all manner of strange things to happen to the system. Unless you're unlucky the system should bleed itself, otherwise pour some LHM down the supply pipe to start things off. After starting fully raise/lower the suspension several times (allow the suspension to settle in each position before moving the lever back) in order to bleed any remaining air out of the hydraulic system [this is commonly called Citerobics]. Before refilling with new LHM take a look at the colour of the old fluid and compare with new LHM. Unless its very bright green (luminous) remove the tank, clean it and the plastic filters inside with petrol, the pump failure could be due to dirty fluid.

It sounds as if the hydraulic pump is knackered, new ones cost something like £300 so look for a secondhand one from a breakers, making sure that it has the same engine layout i.e. aircon etc as there are several different types. Replacing the pump isn't particularly difficult, just make sure you make a note of the route that the auxillary belt takes around the various pulleys :D Clutch problems on Xantia's normally show themselves as having a very stiff pedal action which results in snapping off the small plastic clip under the pedal. It may just be that yours is out of adjustment although bear in mind that the pedal does sit higher than the brake pedal, due to the brake pedal having such a short movement.

It sounds as if the universal joint on the steering column has siezed, hence the briefly stiff steering and subsequent knocking. I've no idea whether you can buy the UJ independant of the column on Lingo's.

Be very careful about what type of sealant you use. I recently broke up a Xantia for parts, when I tried to remove the plastic shield it had been so well glued to the screen that the only way to separate them was with a boulster chisel. Yes it did wonders for both the plastic shield and the screen :unsure:

Yes its just behind it mounted on the inner wing.

Have you checked to see whether the glowplugs are receiving a feed and if so, what current is being drawn as this will indicate whether the plugs or the glowplug control box relay is at fault. If you do wish to remove the glowplugs you'll need an "Offset" ring spanner to get at the one behind the pump, without this spanner it's very difficult.

IIRC size 30 Torx.

If the bulb takes a while to return to it's normal (unsquashed) shape you may have a build up of debris/fungus on the plastic mesh of the fuel pick up. I came across this recently on a Xantia which had covered 187,000 miles.

The wire you refer to informs the ecu of the timing of fuel being injected and adjusts it accordingly, if there is a problem with it it shouldn't affect the car starting but it may cause it run a little rough. You may well have a small leak on the fuel system prior to the fuel pump, bear in mind that leaks here invariably don't show up as the fuel is being sucked rather than pumped. As a result a leak will allow air into the fuel line (and the fuel to run back to the tank) but not leak out of it. Try pumping the priming bulb until it gets hard, if the car then starts this would suggest a leak is the cause.

Or give them a box to stand on to look at their computer properly <_<

Behind the alarm LED is the interior temperature sensor for the aircon, the fan draws air across the sensor etc etc. In order to remove the dash you need to remove the steering wheel and column shroud in order to gain access to the screws securing the panel below the dials. This means removing the airbag which is secured by two torx screws behind the wheel, make sure you take precautions with the airbag such as disconnecting the battery for 30 mins before starting work, if you don't feel confident with this take a look in a Haynes manual. Bear in mind that should the airbag go off unexpectadly you will end up with more than just a black eye :blink: You should be able to complete the job within an hour. To check if the aircon compressor is working, open the bonnet with the engine running and look down at the auxillary belt, at the bottom of it you will see a pulley with several bolt heads sticking out of it which is attached to a large cylinder (the compressor, at the other end of which should be two large rubber pipes). If the aircon is working, the bolt heads mentioned above will be spinning. Another check is that the cooling fans should be running when the aircon is turned on.

You've got a duff parts person there. Remind them of part number 9616 TO Berlingo Multispace XTR Roof Bars Fits : All Berlingo Multispace - £98.04 Take a look on http://www.accessories.citroen.co.uk/ :blink:

The buzzing is the small fan behind the alarm LED, remove the radio to gain access to it then lubricate it with a light oil. The heater only working when the engine is running is normal. The external temp display wasn't fitted to MK1 SX models. The aircon needs to have the engine running and the heater fan set to either a speed or auto position. Check under the bonnet to see whether the compessor is engaging. Is the ABS light illuminated? It may well be that a previous owner has removed the bulb, it should light up initially when you start the car. The braking fault could also be due to warped discs, further info required on the nature of the fault really.

We have both a Picasso and Berlingo, the Pic has much firmer suspension over bumps but is better at high speeds due to improved aerodynamics, other than that the rest is obvious.

Its certainly possible to have both front sensors faulty, the best route from here is to test each sensor directly with an OHM meter. Remove each front wheel then follow the sensor lead into the subframe where it connects onto the main loom. Separate the joint and test the sensor, if its broken then you'll get an open circuit, if its Ok then a reading of about 1098.

The low brake fluid level could be an indication that the brake pads will need replacing soon, alternatively leaking rear brake cylinders.

Was your Xantia a petrol model? It may well be a good example of the efficiency of a modern diesel engine. Conversely I've been surprised at how quickly my Xantia Activa (2.0 petrol engine) warms up having owned only diesel engined for several years.