Shemer

Hi, Check the following site (it's for PUG306, but it should be the same cooling system (assuming you have original A/C). PUG306 cooling. See the cooling fan control unit in the pic. ? http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/wshtml/electric/ac306/coolfan2/fan1.jpg I suspect it's the faulty one (the box is made by Italian Bitron, located either behind the glovebox (or, if no glovebox, under the plastic cover), or else - under the front driver's wing.

Don't change the hydraulic fluid. it can last for ever in the steering system, and may only get you into trouble if not bleeded right.

Did you check the harness part goes towards starter motor? looks like there's a short in there. Was the car starting by itself even before you touched the harness, or just the burnt wiring was there?

1. Get the radiator and coolling system cleaned (you may buy special flush in the shpos, but I would recommend using 1 spoon of washing powder (yes, same 1 you use in your home washing machine. Don't tempt to use dishes soap or any other, unless you want your car to start producing bubbles :D ). 2. As for the white smoke - think it's the valave seals (rings) - they tend to get dried, then oil leaks. Replacing them may not even require removing the cylinder head (in the garage, they insert air pressure from the cylinder (where the spark plug connects), which holds the valve in seat while you replace the seal).

As for the "quite" indicator action - the easiest solution is to get a 12V buzzer from any electronics store, and connect it to the indicator relay (make sure in the store that it's not a kind of annoying buzzer :D ). Regarding the 4 light working all the time - looks like handle problem (same one as for the headlights), but first please let us know if there any external (aftermarket) alram connected or what so ever. Cheers.

Before taking the instrument panel off, try the following: .Do you have lights in the console area (i.e - where the heater/blower controls are) ? If no lights - Try to take the dimmer out of it's place, and make a short between both wires. This should eliminate the dimmer, and give you normal light. In this case - you'll have to replcae the dimmer itself. Else - follow Colin's instruction regarding the instrument panel.

Colin is absolutely right (as usual :-) ). ATF fluid from any known manufacturer will fit you. 2 comments: 1. System should not require any top up. If you're missing the fluid - check for leaks. you don't want to get stuck with a very hard to turn steering wheel, especially when Murphy is just waiting around the corner. 2. If leak was found and fixed - make sure you bleed the system from air bubbles, else you'll have the steering "stuck" for a second while turning the wheel.

Are you sure it's the thermostat? if it was only this - the heater should have keep working properly, since water still going through. Are you using tap water in the cooling system or coolant ?

Hi, Did you release the 2 securing bolts of the driveshaft (located in the lower engine support bracket) ?

Switches are no. 1 cause for such problems. Do as colin suggested (12 volts to engine for checking). Then try to clean the contacts, contact spray may be helpful.

For replacing the bearings you'll need a dent puller, since bearings are inside the pipe holding the arms. Only after dismantling the arms you will know if axle is worth renewal, since if arms are "eaten" by old bearings, forget it. Also, if you decide to do it anyway, don't forget to measure the distance between a fixed point in the car (say, rear wing) and the middle of the brake while it's lifted in the air. make sure you go back to same distance after assembly - do it for both arms. If you find an axle in good shape, take it, just drill two grease nipples in, and make sure you put some grease in.

No you can not, since engine and gearbox have (together) 3 seats (brackets), where 2 of them support the engine itself. What you can, if easier, is to 1st remove the G/box (dismantle wheels, driveshafts, spring/shock absorber etc.), then sperate engine block and G/box housing, then lift engine only. But I guess it's easier to pull them out together, much faster. Of course you can support the G/box with jack/ stand or what so ever, but I wouldn't do that' may fall down and break, and anyway you're not saving any work.

Guess it's the mighty all lord coming from the sky to take the ZX back to his private stable, else it may be a policeman trying to signal you to stop with his Maglite. Better slow down, or at least explain what kind of light do you mean.

Wing and bumper won't exactly fit, there's a slight difference between ZX type I (up to 95, as far as I remember) and Type II. They can be distingiushed by the front look of the hood. Type I: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/Citroen_ZX_VL.jpg/800px-Citroen_ZX_VL.jpg Type II: http://www.chinacartimes.com/wp-content/citroen-zx-08.JPG They can be adjusted, but if your other wing is the old one - you'll have about 2cm. gap between wing and bumper. As for Gearbox - it depends on the size of the engine. 1.4 engines are TU series (Intake towards firewall, exahust towards front of the car), while (in ZX) 1.6, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0 are XU (exhaust manifold towards car's firewall). Gearboxes won't fit, unless it's same engine type (even then, there are differences in gears ration, but this is less critical).

If the car was standing for 12 years, I would first check the bushes holding the rear suspension to the floor. They're made of french rubber (which, in fact, is made out of dry baguette crumb), so very possible that they're cracked. Normal state I would suspect the inner parts of the rear suspensions (torsion bar bearings), but according to your details (low milage, no movement for years) I would fist check the bushes. Anyway, a good practice to extend the bearings life - get to a garage, ask him to drill 2 small holes in the pipe contains the torsion bars, and attach greasing nipples (as used to be in old-time cars). Good greasing from time to time will make the suspension last much longer.

You're right, once I saw it's Diesel, I wanted to write that the whole mambo-jambo doesn't exist in there. Anyway - I still check the tacho mechanizm. many of the ZXs I've met had the same problem. you'll need a specialist for that, nothing you can do at home unless you're familiar with this.

my bad, not missfire, but stall. no crank turning signs, no ignition timing point to ECU. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crank_sensor

You won't be able to see if the tacho mechanizm is faulty, since the problem usualy lays in the electronic board which is part of the tacho, not in the needle, motor or what so ever.

Don't rush scrapping it yet. Di you hear any strange noises coming from the engine ? if yes, then your motor is probably dead. If not, first, Unplug the spark plugs, and try to start the engine. if water are coming out, keep starting until water flow stops. As Colin suggested, take the sump out (after draining the oil and water), check for metal pieces, stuff like that. If none, fill the engine with the cheapest oil you can find, put the spark plugs in (after cleaning them well), and try to start the engine. If you managed to start, and no exssesive noise, bless your luck, let the engine run for an hour, change the oil and filter to proper ones, and keep going. For the future - never attempt to start an engine which is suspected to be full with water/ coolant or what so ever. It will cause an Hydrostatic lock, which usualy bends or breaks the con rod, and possibly other parts of the engine.

TDC sensor, or crank sensor, is located on the engine left side, above the flywheel, towards the firewall. I think it's brown colored. But anyway, I don't believe it's this sensor, else you whould have missfire from the engine. I would put my money on a faulty tacho mechanizm. It a known problem in the ZX. I would look for other instrument panel in break yards. Should be cheaper than replacing the mechanizm with new one.

Sounds like electrical problem rather than fuel. 1st - why would you run the engine to 6K revs. ? It's not a ZX dakar, or similar, you know :( When were the spark plugs changed? is it a monopoint injection (looks like a carb.) or multipoint (you can see injector per each cylinder)?

Think you have 2 separate problems: 1. The blower motor. Don't bother checking voltage in the panel below the Radio. Check voltage on the power feed to the blower motor (Brown connector that can be found if you remove the fabric cover under the glovebox (or plastic cover, if your car is not equipped with glovebox)). The connector tends to melt, then you loose power supply to the motor. If that's the case, bend the metal inner part of the connectr with a small screwdriver, to ensure good connection. 2. The inner heating radiator not functioning for some reason. Can happen for 3 main reasons: a. The easiest to check (but the most expensive to fix) - Radiator is blown, and former owner cancelled it's operation. Take a look at the picture I sent you, and if pipes are not connected or cut there, forget about heating (dash board need to be removed, radiator to be replaced, lots of money). b. The inner radiator is full of mud, dirt, etc. - so no water circulatlion going through (BTW, do you use specail coolant, or regular tap water? if water, change it to coolant (I prefer original Peugeot coolant, named "Technic"), else you're going to damage to engine in the long term. If so - the solution is opening the clip holding the dual pipe enters the radiator (near the car's firewall), take a garden hose, and wash it with high pressure water, until every bit of dirt is coming out. If you do that, make sure you bleed tohe cooling system of the engine, else you may damage the engine beause of heating.If that's the case, cost should be very low. c. The clap that selects between hot and cold air (actually it changesthe air passage between blower and air exits) is disconnected (it's supposed to be conncted with a semi-rigid cable, wrapped with Plastic (not sure if it's Green or not). If it's connected properly, you should really hear a clap (do it with engine stalled) when you quickly turn the temp. button in the instrumant panel from warm to cold. If you hear that clap, leave it in peace. It's working. Good luck.

Thanks for the compliments, although I'm not that young anymore (try 40... :) ). Modifying cars from the regular models to the sportier models is becoming harder and harder, since the systems of the car are getting more and more complicated. My ZX has no airbags, ABS, or any of the electronic gadjets, so I skipped the ABS part (although I wouldn't mind having such one). Also, we have to bare in mind that the new engines and gearboxes are now run by encoded computers, so you need to get the original keys, or at least "break" the locking system. Also have a "duck" (2CV) - there I could almost manufacture almost every broken part by myself, and tune it (as much as you can tune an engine that would fit a lawnmow :lol: ) by yourself. Today - no way - too hard. You must have a garage (talking about expensive tools and/or computer with the right SW and special cables), and a lot of knowledge and spare time for doing so. BTW - If you think you got problems with the law or the Insurance, think again. Where I live (Israel) - it's not allowed to change even a single screw in the car, unless you have it all checked by the MOT. Any policeman can take your car out of the road if he stops you and find out that you made any change from the original. :(

I wouldn't try that. Been there myself. Originally my Aura was 1.6L engine, replaced engine&gearbox to 1.9 16V (taken from BX GTI16V, same as in Pug 405MI16/309GTI16). First of all- you current engine is TU type (exhaust front, inlet back), while any PUG engine bigger than 1.6L (1.8,1.9,2.0 - No matter if 8V or 16V) is XU (inlet front, exhaust back), means engine seats are different. Second - as said above - brakes are too small for stopping the car from high speed. Best way is to change the whole rear beam to disk brake (will force you to change handbrake cables, which, in turn, require dismantlling the exhast pipe (but you're gonna do it anyway if you change the engine) so it's a lot of work. For the front, best is change to bigger discs and calipers - from ZX 16V, PUG 306XSI/S16/GTI6, or believe it or not - Citreon Berlingo/Peugeot Partner. Note that bigger wheels needed rather than the original 14" , unless you get the Volcane wheels (matter of wheel offset). Else new bigger calipers touch the wheels. Yet, you need to consider changing the original torsion and ant-roll bars (2 torsion at the back, one anti-roll in the rear beam, one in the front, since the one used for 1.4 model are not good enough (think it's 19mm compared to 24mm , or even 26mm if you get the pugsport products). Also, steering rack - you'rs is not power assisted , I suppose, and even if so - it's 3.2 turns, side to side. Better take the one from the Volcane (2.8 turns), or, if you're lucky, the one from the 16V (2.4 turns. quick as hell :lol: ). If you don't have the power assisted system - lot lot of work. we did not yet mention the need for different Radiator and cooling system (the 1.4 works in the old way, means with regular unit stuck in the Radiator, while the bigger engines work with the Bitron electronic unit, controls both fans. There's also this small thing of fitting in the injection and electric systems, including the harness (nightmare, if you don't have the exact drawong for both your car and the car where the engine is taken from, and probably alternator changing, and other non-important but time consuming things. When you're done - you'll probably hate those uncomfortable seats, where you find yourself with no side support at quick turns, and the bad looking steering wheel, etc. etc. If you see where I'm getting, then good - else - take my advice and buy yourself a Volcane, or, if you can afford , a 16V (3 doors only) , although it's engine is not that reliable. Forget modifying your 1.4L. will cost you lot of money, lot of time, and lot of pain.

The cost is not the material. It's finding the time to go to the shop, then change the string, with all the little tricks needs to be done for the change. If you got the time - be my guest. The one I suggested takes about 20 seconds of your life max. (Even less than it took to post this meesage) :blink: