mechcanico lee

Does it need to be cleaned /replaced whats you tests to confirm that you need to take it off at all ?

It shouldnt of upset anything the cambelt gear behind it is on a keyway so in theory nothing should have moved.

You say its a bit sluggish on take off , make sure you have no boost leaks, its worth checking that the egr valve isnt being pulled open when it shouldnt be , this can affect fuel mpg greatly , does the car black smoke at all ??this is signs of either over fueling or underboosting . The egr you can test its on the inlet manifold near the bulkhead , pull the vac pipe off and try another bit of pipe on it , suck on it and realease you should hear a positive clunk as the valve head hits the seat, if it doesnt sound positive egr needs to come off a be cleaned so its free. You can blank it off, put a ball bearing in the vac pipe and replace pipe .....egr will not open then , see if your mpg gets better then , on later cars you carnt do this as the managment sees egr not operating and puts them in limp , should be ok on an early one though You say you had a regen on the dpf , with diagnostic gear on you need to see what the differential pressure is reading, this is the pressure difference before and after the dpf filter , my pug 607 2.2 hdi reads 0 millibar at idle and 40 millibar at 3000rpm so would say the citroen would be about the same . If the differential pressure is still a bit on the high side the car will try to regen whilst on the road this eats fuel also . My pug at 70 mph does bout 50 mpg its a manual but i wouldnt of thought there would be a great difference between the citroen auto box . Some things to have a go at Hth Lee

Theres a pinned thread on replacing rear brake pads that Paul did in the main heading page, its basically corosion that builds up and pushes caliper into wheel rim .

Use genuine or at least OE quality parts .....thers alot of cheap parts out there and something so important its not worth getting el cheapo parts.

My link This is the pin configuration , its pin 4 and 16 that power up the scan tool, its these pins you need to test , if the 12 volts or earth is missing you could always substitute them by adding 12v or earth to the socket from another source. If your not really clued up on the electrics let a spark look at it , if you back feed one of these pins you could do damage to modules or die or worse. hope this helps .

Hello dont dispair !!! did the machine he used power up at all ? if not the live or earth will be missing from the 16 pin obd connector , it will probably be a blown fuse ......not sure which one but just go through all fuses the ones underbonnet and inside the car .

Good result without costing an arm and 2 legs :)

Have you ckecked all the fuses regards power outlet not working , cruise control at a guess could be clutch pedal switch (if its manual) or secondary brake pedal switch , good diag equipment would show these values in the data stream sections as on or off states , try to get it to someone with good equipment (peugeot planet , autologic and so on ) better than spending money at random parts.

What Paul says above , a think the pipe has a one way valve in it so that could be at fault , or try taking the pipe off the vac pump end and see if you get a continuous vac there ....if so you know it is the pipe at fault. Maybe worth taking vac pump off cylinder head and make sure dog drive in the end not snapped and sometimes latching on then coming free again, never seen that though .

What Paul says above , a think the pipe has a one way valve in it so that could be at fault , or try taking the pipe off the vac pump end and see if you get a continuous vac there ....if so you know it is the pipe at fault. Maybe worth taking vac pump off cylinder head and make sure dog drive in the end not snapped and sometimes latching on then coming free again, never seen that though .

Hello first things i would go at would be to get the injector back spills tested to see if any excessive ,this can cause air to get into rail and cause drain back and then bad starting but normally they just crank and crank without even attempting to start. You report that it tries to fire up but doesnt quite make it , next one would be make sure cam sensor signal and crank sensor signals are good ........you need a scope for this, have seen a few cam shaft sensors fail but there only cheap so maybe worth replacing just to rule it out , the cam sensor mounts on an elongated fixing so it can be moved in or out towards the camshaft sprocket, the gap measured from the solid part of the sprocket is about 1mm The crank sensor is right at the top of the gearbox bell housing , it picks the signal from segments on the flywheel , make sure connector looks clean and secure Like others have said a good battery and good crank over from cold is essential Somethings to have a go at. Lee

Yes sounds like you have a vac leak or the vaccum pump on end of cylinder head not working , with engine running pull the pipe end out of the brakes servo carefull not to snap it its only plastic , there should be good strong vaccum if you put your thumb over the end . If that seems good put the pipe back into the servo and listen for air leak sound ,again with engine running if you can pull pipe out of servo quickly and put your thumb over hole in servo the vac will be held in the servo till you let your thumb off then you hear the servo suck air in as you let go , if the servo not holding the vac the servo leaking and no good . The engine being under powered is most likely because there is no vaccum to the turbo wastegate control, vac from the servo also does other things like dozer unit control and egr (depending on what year car is ) so can throw up fault codes and so on . Hope this helps Lee

Good find ,saved yourself from a dosh hand out .

Get one of the "mileage correction" guys out to it to reset the clocks and the bsi back to the original mileage £50-£80 normally covers it , jusy google them and see who can do it who closest to yourself .

It may need topping up on the gas , you need to visit an a/c repairer/re gaser and have the system checked out .

You have diagnosed it yourself really , take the wheel off and have a look, do the pads have spring retainers or some kind of spring device that holds the pads secure , its the pads or the pins rattling round in the caliper ,pressing the brake slightly is pinching them and stopping the rattle.

The service light coming doesnt mean it needs a service, it is a general warning to alert your attension. I have code tested cars with lights on the dash and sometimes they read as "no faults found" you need to try another code tester . Can you find a garage with citroen lexia or autologic scan gear.

A fault like that i would have the scan gear in the car have data stream parameters up say .......... fuel rail pressure drv or flow regulator dozer valve duty cycle egr control , duty drive the car and watch what these parameters do in the condition when the car does the fault, its a 2 man job really when out on test drive.......dealer wont give you that takes to much time and men off there jobs of servicing and making them money .

Wac could you send upload a picture of them on the car .

Was the dual mass flywheel replaced ? when these get worn it can make the clutch pedal pump /feel uneven