Johndouglas

Here's one who doesn't! I've been driving Citroens since 1988 and think they're great cars. Currently, we have three of them - each one a gem.

Further to my previous remarks. I ran 21amp cables from the battery, through fuses, then down the back of the engine, then under the floor. It´s possible to enclose them within the conduit which covers the fuel pipes. They then went up over the fuel tank and through the large grommet under the rear seat. From there they went to the boot area to relays fitted in the panel box. PS. I would not be happy fitting a towbar bought off ebay. Reading caravan forums recently, some owners have been rear-ended and the insurance assessor has authorised the fitting of a new towbar.

I fitted a Witter towbar to my C5 Estate and it wasn´t necessary to remove the bumper - only the panel under the bumper. I decided not to replace it, but to keep it in case I decide to remove the towbar before selling. In my opinion, to connect to the accessory socket for wiring the towing 12S socket will be a mistake. Fridge and battery charging will not work sucessfully. It´s better to take a 2.5mm wire directly from the battery, controlling it through a Smartcom relay.

Get under the back of the car and have a look at the plastic link on the height corrector (as KFK has outlined previously) The link may have broken or maybe just pulled off the ball. Either way, you´ll need a new one.

I paid 225 quid for a service on my C5 when the mileage was at 12400 and one year old. All they did was change the oil and filter and the cabin filter. Daylight robbery!

Maybe just the hydraulic pump adjusting the height. If you had done many more miles I would have said look at the crank pulley because they tend to breakup at around 100K. (Was the dealer that went under Lovekyns?)

I agree that this is the likely cause. I had it on my previous Xantia and after the corrosion was removed and new pads fitted, things were back to normal. What I disagree with is the statement that the fixing bolts have locktite on them. Knowing that corrosion between the caliper body and the steel bolts can build up over time, I removed the bolts on my C5 when it was only a year old and coated them with copper grease. The bolts were easy to remove.

On my C5 the rear seat belts don´t sound the alarm - only the lights are on and a message on the display "None of the rear belts are fastened" -- even though the rear seats are folded flat. After a few minutes the message and lights go off.

Never owned one but had plenty of XUD´s in Xantias, BX´s and Pugs. I´ve always done oil & filter at 6000miles. Air and fuel filter at 18000 and cabin filter at 15000.

The light is controlled by a tilt-sensitive switch fitted inside the door. Remove the trim panel to get to it.

No! the otherside is easier - although still not a lot of room. Plenty of sharp edges so have the Elastoplasts handy.

Just last weekend I had to do the headlamp bulb on our Xsara - a b******* of a job. It helps if you get that wiring loom out of the way. Pull the red clip towards the engine then lift off the plug. To remove the side light, twist the bulb holder anti-clockwise, and the bulb is a push fit.

Xantias have a kerb weight of between 1312 and 1360 Kgs. 1312 Kgs is around 1.25 tons.

If you were a member of the GSF forum when it was Andyspares, you can use your old Andyspares login

Have you put your problem on http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/ There are some very knowledgeable XUD enthusiasts on there.

I ran a 2.1 Xantia from new for seven years. I changed the cambelt every 35000 miles and when I sold it at 100K I had not needed to change the tensioner or the water pump. Having said that, if you intend to stick to recommended changes, you've got to consider what the state of the tensioner will be in 75 or 80K miles. Changing the belt is similar to the smaller XUD's, but removing the top engine mount is a bit more work since the mounting is attached to the inner wing. Change the auxilliary belt at the same time.

I don't think the fact that it's diesel has much to do with it - although the engines are a bit heavier. I have a new C5 which got through its front tyres in 12000 miles. A previous diesel Xantia did 30000 miles and a BX did 42000. When I got the new tyres I also got the tracking checked. It was miles out, and probably had been when it came from the factory.

Had you not already done it I'd have said that you had a duff glowplug. I've had the same trouble on my Saxo for the past two weeks, but a new set of plugs has brought it back to scratch. Before you do your next cold start, give the primer bulb a few squeezes before starting. If it helps, you have a slight air leak in the fuel line.

Try this. Hold down the black button near the mileometer then turn on the ignition. Continue to hold the button and the digits will count down to the correct figure to match the service interval.

If the ABS sensor was faulty, it's the ABS light that would come on, not the engine management light. You sure it's the engine management light?

Sounds as though the cable isn't releasing properly. Try pushing the pedal down to the floor and letting your foot slip off. That might just move the self-adjuster.

The first was built by Alvis as long ago as 1928 but it didn't catch on. Then DKW and Citroen tweeked the design and Citroen produced the Traction Avant in 1934. Other car makers were slow to follow suit.

The ISBN mentioned presumably is for a C5 built between 2001 and early 2004. If you have a 1.6HDi or a 2ltr HDi built after 2004 the ISBN is 2-7268-6901-7. The Auchan hypermarket at Calais carry both books.

Yesterday I put a heavy parcel on the front passenger seat and drove away. The seat belt sounder started although I was wearing mine. I stopped and rolled the parcel onto the floor. No warning ping. I then pressed down on the squab where the parcel had been. The 'ping; started immediately. Obviously the detector is in the seat.

Where ever you get it make sure it's LDS and not LHM.