Johndouglas

Thanks for that link Paul. They look good. It's curious that every outlet I've looked at all have the same price - even down to the last 60p. You would think someone would be under-cutting.

Thanks for that Paul. I'd decided on the Grayston because I used them on a Ford Sierra Estate for 8 years prior to my changing to Citroens in 1990. My experience then was that they had no effect if the car was lightly loaded. However I'll look into the MAD ones. (Maybe I should just get rid of the pneumatic jockey wheel.)

Sorry not to have replied before. I've been away and on limited internet access. The mirrors I bought were Maypole Mirrors MP8323. They are on ebay. They work really well and feel secure, without any vibration. Only one small snag which doesn't always happen. Because the gap between the door mirror casing and the edge of the mirror glass is so small, when the towing mirror is put on, the clip pushes against the face of the door mirror and moves it out of adjustment. When I get around to it I'll look into seeing if a bit can be filed off the clips. With the caravan attached and a heavily loaded car I've found that when going over some high speed humps the bounce on the steel springs has allowed the jockey-wheel to ground. Therefore I'm considering fitting some Grayston assisters on the rear springs.

How did your insurance policy underwriters react when you told them about it?

Quote: Change your car to a BX then you can..... :rolleyes: Sorry John Douglas. I don't comprehend.----Quote. Sorry for the late reply. If you had a BX, to take the wheels off the ground all you need do is to raise the suspension, put blocks under the sills, move the suspension lever to lower the suspension and the car would come down onto the blocks, then the wheels would pull up off the ground. Later Citroens such as the Xantia and C5 don't do that.

So if you got your towbar direct from Citroen it's probably made by Westfalia-automotive in Germany. I don't know whether they can be purchased from outlets other than Citroen.

Cant help you with the first question but Yes to the second one. My daughters new C4 came without a spare wheel so I bought a new steel rim and sourced a good part-worn tyre. Having removed the tin of sealant, the new wheel fitted comfortably in the well.

Hello & welcome

Change your car to a BX then you can..... :rolleyes:

A few weeks ago here in Spain I met a German guy who towed with a newish Merc. I talked to him about Adblue. His does around 625 miles on a litre of fluid. There are various dashboard 'low level' warnings which he can get however, should he ignore them, eventually the engine won't start. His Adblue filler cap was alongside the diesel filler.

It probably is - but why do you want to. Clutch changing isn't much more than a once in the lifetime of most privately owned cars and the cost of conversion won't probably be that much different. Then some people hold the opinion that the engine isn't quite so smooth with a solid flywheel. Also there's more chance of gearbox failure and more strain on cambelt.

The front spheres are the easy ones to remove. It's the rears which usually give the trouble. I had a Xantia around 15 years ago and I remember struggling for hours to remove the rear spheres and yet when I got the correct tool, the job was a doddle. The front spheres should shift with a decent strap wrench. Or some owners make up their own tool. There used to be a guy on ebay who made tools to order for about £15.

No - the only way you can undo a remap is to have the ECU amended. If you are going to reset the BSI make sure you follow the correct procedure. It's in the common problems section if you are not familiar with it

Difficult to give an answer about the xenons. Some years they were standard on the exclusive models - other years they were an option. On the current exclusives I think they are an expensive option. To decide whether you have a 90BHP or a 110BHP. Look at the VIN. If you have the sequence RHY then yours is a 90BHP. If the sequence is RHZ then its a 110. If the MOT guy sees the message, there's a good chance that he'll fail it. The system can be disabled through Lexia (I think) then maybe as well to get rid of the other two.

Hello & welcome to the forum.

Yes - you're right about the oil. If you had an eolys tank it would be situated close to the n/s rear wheel and the end of the diesel fuel tank.

Hello & welcome to the forum. You are correct in assuming that you have a Mark 1 C5, however there is confusion over Mk1s; Mk2s and Mk3s. In 2004 Citroen never called the newer vehicle a Mark 2. Only the "facelift model". So it's better to refer to the car by its build date. Only on the 2.2 engines was the particle filter fitted from 2001. The 2ltr engines didn't get them until mid-2004. Engines with particle filters benefit from using a low ash oil.

My choice would be the 2.0ltr car. The 1.6 doesn't have a good reputation in C5's. The early 2ltr engine cars are popular because they don't have a particle filter and the problems associated with them.

Look at the VIN. If it contains the sequence RHY, it's a 90BHP. If the sequence is RHX, then it's a 110HP. The 110 engine is fitted with an intercooler, the 90 isn't. The power difference between the two is very noticeable. FSH is most important (IMHO) but not necessarily from a main dealer. I've recently sold a 2002 Xsara and a 2005 C5 both with a full service history, and yet they have rarely been near a garage since they were new.

Yes, it won't matter not being there. It just deadens the sound of the engine as you're driving.

If you changed the battery, did you replace the cover over the engine? The engine cover on my C5 needs a really good tug to get it off. Just in case you didn't replace it securely, look down the front and back of the engine. I would think the sump cover would prevent it falling on to the road.

Hello & welcome to the forum

You're right about the capacity being 11 ltrs. When you drain from the bottom of the rad, the coolant remains in the engine block. There may be a drain plug on the back of the engine. Also the heater system may not have completely emptied

Yes - it's happened to mine just the once, back in November. As I drove down a steep hill, I got the three gongs, the light came on and stayed on until I stopped after about two miles. I switched off for ten minutes or so and when I restarted, things were back to normal. It hasn't happened since.

It was only a few months ago that I sold my daughter's 2002 Xsara which she'd had from new. I never had any bother draining 4.5 ltrs of oil when I serviced it. Did you have the front of the car elevated? The coolant sensor is in the end of the cylinder head, held by a clip which enters from the top. Air box etc. needs removing first. To drain the coolant you will need to disconnect the bottom hose. There's no drain plug fitted. When her heater started blowing at full speed, I replaced the resister pack which cured the fault. Unfortunately it returned about a month later so I fitted a new blower unit (from ECP for about £90). At about 85000 miles the aircon stopped working. A mobile aircon guy came and regassed the Xsara and my C5 which solved the problem. As Paul said - to put a picture on the forum, first put it on photobucket or flickr. Then post the link. Like this:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/P1010883.jpg[/url]