Johndouglas

I've recently taken on a 2010 C5 X7 VTR+ Tourer and I'm still trying to get to grips with the satnav section in the handbook. I find it terribly complicated and I find myself relying on my trusty Tomtom more and more.

I have the same vehicle as you and mine do work. Maybe yours have been switched off by Lexia.

If they do the job properly! Some fitters don't clamp the steering wheel - consequently the wheel can end up a bit off centre by the time they've finished.

That's a shame. All my previous XUDs didn't have the immobiliser fitted consequently no cover. However on one car I immobilized it by fitting a hidden switch under the dash which cut the power to the solenoid.

Yours must be a late model. Any I've had dealings with didn't have a cover and the solenoid were easily accessed. Is the pump a Roto-diesel or Bosch?

Although Darren hasn't mentioned the year of his vehicle the engine fitted to the ZX is likely to be the XUD9-162. And he's right - there is no camsensor as the fuel pump is timed to the engine position. If his problem hasn't been resolved, my first trial would be to put a temporary wire directly from the battery to the pump solenoid, then start the car and try running it using the temporary wire. That would rule out any malfunction in the harness wiring. To stop the engine you will need to momentarily disconnect the temporary wire.

Thinking back to my BX days, I think the solenoid was powered directly from the ignition switch. With the plunger in the unpowered state, it blocked the flow of fuel. With the ignition switched the plunger is lifted allowing the fuel to flow. As a temporary measure you could try bypassing the wiring and take a temporary supply wire directly from the battery.

Hello & welcome to the forum. It's very likely that Haynes don't do a manual for the Relay van. It took them years before they took the decision to do one for the C5. But your engine will probably be similar to that used in a number of Citroen & Peugeot vehicles. Compare your engine with my picture below. If it's the same the fuel filter is marked with a red blob and the oil filter marked with a white one. To remove both you'll need a close fitting socket. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Handprimer002-1.jpg[/url]

Here's my collection of canister removal tools. What works easily on one engine won't be so easy on another. Your engine is probably similar to that in my daughter's Xsara, in which case the tool to use is the red handled pliers, most easily from underneath. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/filterwrenches.jpg[/url]

Yes! I would check the function of the stop solenoid. On some models it's possible to remove the solenoid and replace it without the plunger and spring. Tie the 12volt supply out of the way. The engine will run but it won't switch off on the key.

Try some new copper washers on any screw in connectors. Also if your primer is a rubber squeezy bulb then it might have developed a pin hole.

Hello & welcome to the forum.

For your engine you need a semi-synthetic oil 10w/40 grade to B3 or CF at least. However, on my daughter's Xsara (which is the same engine as yours) I always use a fully-synthetic oil. She's had it for 12 years from new, and I think using the superior oil pays benefits of long life. In addition to 5ltrs of oil, you'll also need a new oil filter (of the correct type). I believe on your engine it will be a screw on/off canister on the front of the engine. Also ideally you'll need a new squashable sump plug washer which is 14mm diameter. You can find the grade information on the can's label. I always do an oil change by having the car elevated at the front. Not only does it give more room, but it also runs the old oil to the back of the sump where the drain plug is. Probably you will have an undertray on your engine which will need to be removed. It's held by fixtures, two on each side plus three at the front. Once the undertray is off, you'll need a 8mm hex socket which fits in the centre of the sump plug. Remove the plug but not before you have a large receptacle to catch the 5ltrs of oil which will pour out. Whilst it is draining, the old oil filter needs to be removed. A strap wrench is useful for starting it turning. Again, as it is screwed off, oil will pour from it, so again it needs something to drip into. Once the oil has drained, the new filter is screwed on - just a bit more than hand tight. The sump plug is tightened with the new washer in place. After cleaning up the engine, the new oil is poured in through the oil filler cap on the top of the engine. Once done, start the engine and check for any leaks. Also once the car is on level ground, check the oil level and top up if required. Reset the service interval. If you have a Eurocarparts close to where you live, you can enter your registration number and order the oil and filter online at a reasonably good price. Collection or delivery can also be done online.

Hello & welcome to the forum

The C5 is a heavy car for a 1.6 engine. Fuel consumption is bound to be high when pulling away. Try to keep a light foot on the accelerator pedal. If you've had a 1.6 engine before, you'll be aware of the fact that the turbo is a weakness in them. Keep well up to date with oil changes with good quality oil and maybe even a flush at the same time. I would think twice about a remap. It good well be that in the not too distant future, an engine's original spec will be checked at MOT and any deviation from standard will be a fail and insurance perhaps, marked as illegal - unless the company is notified.

Does it still have its particle filter? Smoke is increased when it's removed, although an early model should still pass the test. To improve the result, buy a bottle of Fortes or Millers. Have the tank fairly low on fuel and empty the entire bottle into the tank. Go for a drive with plenty of rapid acceleration. I always take my four vehicles to the same MOT test station, therefore they are always tested on the same Boston machine. The station is some distance away from where I live, consequently they always arrive hot, having been driven down the M23. My own Saxo and C5, besides getting a good dose of additive before the test, they get the occasional dose of Miller's throughout the year, and they always get a good result on the smoke test - usually a fast pass. Daughter's Xsara, on the other hand get's the Millers in the few weeks before the test. Her result is never the same two years running. The past four years have been 2.46; 1.89; 0.64; and just last week a horrifying 2.58 with the 6th rev. Talking to her about it, the only conclusion I can draw for the irregular result is the fact that she often buys her fuel with her groceries from the supermarket where "every little helps". :P

But surely, if there was no Eolys, the low warning would display at every new start of the engine?

You sure you've got the correct shaft?

Hello & welcome to the forum.

Before attempting to open a bleed nipple, I always give them a square-on hammer tap. It seems to loosen any corrosion.

Any new owners of C5's should pick up a copy of this month's Car Mechanics Magazine. There's a useful run-down on carrying out a service.

If the 4th injector is leaking, that's not going to help for your fuel consumption. Probably why your EML is staying on.

Do you need a new driveshaft? The old one - if it's ok should go back in.

Hello & welcome to the forum. If you haven't already joined, you should also join our sister forum at http://www.citroenpicasso.org.uk/picasso/

If the handbrake is partly on and the tracking a bit out, then both these things could aid poor fuel consumption. The fact that the engine management light doesn't go off immediately needs investigating. The one thing that will improve mpg is to lower your driving speed by 5mph.