Johndouglas

Welcome to the forum and sorry to hear bad news so early in your ownership. Did you buy privately or dealership?

Way, way back, the first two cars that I owned and worked on used washers with a couple of tabs on them. Once the nut was tightened, the tabs were knocked down onto the flats. A washer could be used several times.

Hello & welcome to the forum. Tell us your problems and we'll try and help you.

Yes - the large nut needs to be removed. Behind it is a large washer. The brake drum may just pull off the stub axle but often the bearing (which comes away with the drum) is reluctant to move and needs a puller to free it. Also if the brake shoes are very close to the drum they too may need releasing before the drum will come away.

The C3 rear hubs are probably similar to my own Saxo and Pug 306 rear brakes. To remove the large nut you'll need a good 32mm 1/2" drive socket and some serious leverage to undo it. The nut is torqued to 200Nm so it takes some shifting. You may find part of the nut is peened into a groove in the stub axle.

Seems to be a common problem on the later C5s. Apparently the trouble is caused by the fuel supply relay which is part of the fuse box. Replacement is the answer.

It's that time of year when all my MOT inspections fall due. The first one up for it was my old Saxo 1.5D. I've been checking it over during the past three weeks and thought it would benefit from some new front discs and pads. Also a pair of new tyres were put on the front. To replace the discs there's no need to remove the callipers but since the discs have been on the car for 16 years, they took a lot of shifting. The new ones went on with a coating of copper grease. Some new rear silencer rubber mounts completed my preparations. With a generous treatment of Millers in the tank, the old girl got a new certificate with a fast pass. Only three more cars to do!!!

Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick?

My daughter bought a used Pug 306 mobility car fourteen years ago and she still has it. A great little car with years of life left in it.

I think what you are looking at is the handbrake cable. On a C5 the handbrake is on the front wheels. Yes! the cable passes through a looped ring but the rubber sheething round the actual inner and outer cable is quite thick and even if it is damaged slightly, it won't affect the operation of the brakes. If you look at the end of the cable where it connects to the lever, you need to make sure that the lever moves freely according to how the handbrake is used. Best to get a helper to pull on the handbrake - then release it while you watch to see if the lever moves to its off position. If it doesn't, the handbrake cables are dragging and they will cause the brake to stay on when you think it's off. That will cause the brake and hub to overheat. Also use much more fuel. Part of the cables - the parts that you cannot see pass through metal tubes. In theory the cables should pull out of the tubes, but in practice they tend to stay in so very often, when the cables need replacing, they replace the two tubes and the two cables. Replacements for the four parts is around £70 plus the labour. PS: Reference your PM. I've removed your unwanted posts.

Yes! I saw that in the mag but doubt if I'll get in any towing experience with it before the deadline.

Is it a leak or just misting? Mine always needs a wipe down before MOT otherwise the tester puts on an advisory about it.

A shame to let your experiences put you off Citroen. I've owned them since 1990 and I've persuaded the rest of the family to follow suit. Really they are no worse than any other make.

Find the little sender unit on the bottom edge of your passenger side door mirror - it looks like an LED. They are replaceable.

Put your question on the forum again in a few weeks time then I may be able to give you an answer. Today I went out to try a C5 VTR+ Tourer. In spite of the heavy rain I enjoyed the drive. Get the car on rough surfaces and you quickly realise you haven't got hydropneumatic suspension beneath you, but generally I was impressed with the car. So much so that I did a deal to have it. At the moment it's without a tow bar so I've arranged to collect in about two weeks time. That will give me time to get my own MOT's and prepared for sale. Having towed with hydraulic Citroens since 1990, getting used to not being able to raise and lower the suspension for hitching on, will take some getting used to.

Can we take it that you put fresh petrol in it? Also a new set of plugs, points, oil and filter before running it?

I can't help with the C4 sensor but on the C5 it's in the passenger door mirror. To replace the sensor the glass needs to be removed by having the mirror pointing skywards and using a thin bladed tool along the lower edge to unclip the ring on the mirror back. Once the mirror is out, the back needs to be removed. It's held by four tangs which need to prised open. They tend to break and it helps to warm them first with a hairdryer. The sensor looks like an LED on the lower edge of the housing. Replace it with a new one and to make the connection easy, snip the wires and solder on the new one.<br /><br />

I can't help you specifically with C8, but on my C5 the connector with the white release clip is the fuel intake and the green connector is the output to the engine. The electrical connector is also green.

It could be brake fluid. But it may also be power steering fluid or even coolant that needs being renewed. If you are loosing brake fluid the reservoir which is usually attached to the bulkhead under the bonnet will be showing a lower level of fluid.

Welcome to the forum. There are a few forum members already towing with their C5s. I've been towing with hydropnuematic Citroens ever since the BX appeared so I for one will be interested to hear how a steel-sprung C5 copes.

There is - although I can't say how effective it is. If you go to the VOSA website you'll find on there a downloadable form headed Vehicle Safety Defect Report................. If you decide to use it, come back and tell us the result. PS. All you need to do to find it is to put VEHICLE SAFETY DEFECT REPORT into Google.

It's one of several advertised on ebay for around £20. The setting up instructions are a bit difficult to follow, but once done, when the film is viewed on the computer via a usb SD card carrier it's surprisingly good. It doesn't come with a card but I've put a 32GB card in it which records for about 25 - 30 hours after which time it wipes and re-records.

Is this the one you need:- http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/CITROEN/XSARA/1.4/2004/__/79/180550/exhaust-part/

Yes it could. A few weeks ago my dash cam's suction pad came away from windscreen and fell to the passenger seat causing the alarm to sound. Fortunately it was mid-afternoon. However when I first bought my C5 (2005) the alarm went off at various times. Being new, it went back to the dealer and they fitted a new lock to the rear tailgate.

I'll speak on behalf of the moderators and say that the only information we'd get would be the facts about your car. For example, its RP number, date it was built, its engine and transmission, its colour, the seat material plus a further couple of dozen facts about the car............................................... None of which on its own would be of much use to anyone. But in this day and age when identity theft is so common, it's just another piece of information like DOB, address, passport number, bank account details, middle name or mother's maiden name that the scammers collect to build up an identity.