Johndouglas

Get it changed pronto. Mine on my 2.1 Xant started with a drip. It suddenly dumped all the LHM requiring the car to be flat-bedded to a garage. As a precaution, I replaced the rear one as well. Not a big job. Four or five unions to undo. Get some new seals - the old ones tend to stick inside the bores.

It isn't difficult. Yes - the internet address required is your picture stored on Photobucket - or similar site. The process takes much longer to describe than to do. This is it: Go to http://www.photobucket.com/ Either sign in or join. Click on Upload Now If your picture is on your computer, click Computer Click Select photos and videos Find the picture on your computer and click save On Photobucket you'll be told Upload completed Click save and the page will go to the start of your album with your picture showing. Inside the box near to where it says IMG Code high light the code and Right Click. Left click for copy Go back to your forum reply box, right click then left click on paste Your picture will come up in code looking like this:- IMG]http://i69.photobuck...Dec-2010041.jpg[/img but when you [b]Add Reply or Preview Post[/b], it should show. It sounds complicated - but from start to finish it's only a few minutes.

Take your car to a tyre depot. They'll destroy the bolt but at least they'll get it undone. Maybe as well to have four normal bolts with you.

I would put your question on www.frenchcarforum.co.uk --- There are lots of guys with them there. In fact if you do a search you'll bring up a map of UK marking the homes of owners who are willing to help. Generally they seem to be satisfied with them.

Don't know for sure - but usually the adjuster is beneath the centre console, at the rear. The console needs to come out.

I haven't needed to do the job on our Xsara but I've done the Pug 306 and it looks very similar. To take the centre console out, remove the ashtray from the rear and prise off the trim cover. If there's window switches they'll need disconnecting. Prise up the handbrake lever gaiter and remove it over the top of the handbrake. Remove the front ashtray and prise free the other tray. There are 5 screws holding the ashtray/cigar lighter. Disconnect the cable and withdraw it. Inside the ashtray aperture there are screws holding the console to the floor. Undo them and pull the console to the rear to remove. Handbrake ajustment screws are underneath. On the 306 I think I needed to remove the grip on the handbrake. Some heat helps to get it off. Washingup liquid to replace.

Join a website such as www.photobucket.com Login and upload the piccy you want to keep in your album When it's there right click on the IMG code and left click 'copy' the code. Go to your forum and in the reply box, paste the IMG code. Like this:- IMG]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/ManilvaNov-Dec-2010041.jpg[/img I've purposely removed the two outside brackets from the paste to stop the piccy showing http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/ManilvaNov-Dec-2010041.jpg Incidentally, the piccy shows somebody who had their wheels pinched in a service area near Malaga

That sounds nice. Take it it's in addition to the Citroen?

It won't pass an MOT if you do find a way. If ABS is an original fitment, it's got to be testable.

Lighting regs for trailers state that they must have on the back two red sidelights, two red stop lamps, an illuminated number plate and two triangular red reflectors plus amber indicators designed to flash between 60 and 120 times per minute. A smart 7 relay is about 20 quid. Isn't it worth doing the job properly?

Just in the front part of your exhaust there are three joints. It's likely that one of them could be blowing slightly. A constant stream of exhaust fumes can easily get sucked in by the ventilation system. Maybe an exhaust centre could help.

Had it been the other way round, I'd have said no. But the way you want to go, I don't see any difficulty.

I don't think it will work Dave. It could be done like that on the early models, but not on facelift ones.

You'll see an electrical connector on top of the LHM tank. If the LHM level is correct, disconnect the electrics and see if the warning light goes out. If it does, the switch may be faulty.

I checked mine a few weeks ago. First check in six years. I dropped the suspension, removed the top and considered the level was a bit low. I put in a third of a can, replaced the top, started up and raised and lowered a couple of times, and its been fine since.

You must be very sure that the replacement spheres are correct for your vehicle. For instance front are different from rear; saloons are different from estates; even different engines may have different spheres - and they all look the same. There is a proceedure for changing them. Do a search on here or on www.frenchcarforum.co.uk It's important that the correct method is used otherwise you may do damage to pipework (and yourself) Front spheres come off fairly easily. Rears are more stubborn.

If I were taking the head off I'd use a new timing belt.

There should indeed be a concertina paper filter in there - but no water!

My guess would be a wheel bearing rumbling. It might not be apparent when spinning the wheel. At least not yet.

If your car is fittd with a 1.6 HDI engine then they have a reputation for b*****ing their turbos. Citroen may tell you that the oil changes have been neglected or not done according to their instructions.

Mine is to the left of the speedometer and below the fuel gauge. It lights briefly as the engine is turned over but blink and you'll miss it.

Timing belt is not included in any service but if the belt has been done, it's usually recorded in the service book. On modern engines a belt change is recomended at 100K miles but on your XUD engine ASAIR the recomended mileage is 80K - not that I would recomend leaving them as long in either engine. My own HDI is coming up to 77K and I'll be doing that when the weather warms up. XUD's I've always done at 50K. Hard to say if the jobs are difficult. Depends on your DIY skills. Changing the oil and filter is OK - messy maybe but not difficult.

First thing - buy a Haynes manual. You can probably pick one up on ebay. Things to do are change oil and filter, put in a new air filter, change the fuel filter. If you have no record of a new cambelt having being fitted, it would be as well to have that changed. If it snaps in use the repair costs will be much more than the car's value. To change the oil and filter it's best to have the front of the car raised either on jacks or ramps. You'll need a large dish to catch the old oil and then there's a sump plug to remove. That may require a 8mm hex socket or a 19mm ring spanner. The old filter will be tight and a filter wrench will help. The new filter should be only hand tight. XUD engines uses air filters of different designs. Make sure you get the right replacement. Probably yours will have four screws to undo before lifting off the cover. Simply lift out the old filter, clean out the rubbish from the bottom of the box and drop in the new.

Yes - all my previous Citroen/Peugeot cars have had XUD engines. Some as 1.7cc; others as 1.9cc and the Xantia which was 2.1cc, but all of similar design. Even the first HDIs was based on it. It was such a successful engine that it was used by other companies like Lada, FSO, Rover, Suzuki, Fiat and Lancia. Regarding the 12volt supply wire from ignition switch to timer control. The wire will be in that multiplug you mentioned. Connect a grounded 12 bulb to it and if it's working, when the ignition switch is turned, the bulb should light.

If your engine is a 2 litre HDI the glowplugs won't be called into use unless the temperature is around -5C. So if you've got starting difficulies, I would be looking for some other reason. When you first switch on can you hear the primer pump in the tank start up? Maybe lift the rear seat to help hear it - And it only runs for a very short time.