Johndouglas

The bottom doughnut is usually the first to go since it spends its life in mucky surroundings and when it becomes soft does give the symtoms you describe. But I would have thought at 80K it was way too soon for it to happen. My own C5 is almost on a similar age and mileage and its mounts are like new. I think I would be looking to see if any fault codes were stored.

After two BXs, two Pug205s, a Pug306 and a Xantia over 20 years, you begin to find your way around XUD engine bays :angry: For glowplug timer controls I would look in the scappy yards. But before you change anything, find the 12v wire from the ignition switch to the box and make sure that it's working properly.

I suppose if you measure the distance between top of tyre and lower edge of the wheel arch on a couple of C5s then compare the figures with your own car, that should give you some idea whether it's normal. Measurements between bump stop and ground is the way it's done on Xantias.

With BXs and Xantias it was possible to check the ride height and correct it by moving the correctors. AFAIK the C5s need to be put on a Lexia to check and alter the ride height.

I think what you're looking at is the cold start system. That's a choke-cable-like thing running from the fuel pump to a sensor bulb close to the thermostat housing on the end of the engine. If it's working correctly the cable will pull a fuel pump lever to assist cold starting. As the engine hots up, the sensor relaxes and allows the lever to move back so that the cable has slight slack in it. The sensor is prone to failure, either in the open or closed position. It's fairly easily replaced. The copper washers on the banjo are often a leak point. If fuel leaks out, air will certainly be drawn in as the fuel falls back into the tank overnight, giving you difficult starting next day.

Often with these glowplug controls a bad connection leads to overheating and the relay contact points burn out. Each glowplug can be drawing in the region of 10amps for each plug. This is what may be wrong with yours and an outside relay has been added. On the original timer box you would have two heavy cables from battery to timer and from timer to glowplugs. An earth for the timer circuit. A 12volt supply via the ignition key. A lead to the dashboard glowplug taletale light. Maybe a sensor from the engine for temperature. If the glowplugs are working OK as it is now, I would live with it and concentrate on your fuel/air leak.

By turning off the ignition, the 12volts to the solenoid is cut allowing the plunger to stop the flow of fuel. Turning the key to on also activates the glowplug timer controls. Does your extra dashboard button use the original relay?

I can't see that there would be any benefit. Wouldn't Citroen techies have explored the possibility of a wider track?

That needs putting right and is probably the reason for your white smoke. The smoke - if it has a smell of diesel about it is atomized fuel. In low-tech diesels, which is what the XUDs are, when the glowplugs work correctly they stay on for a time even after the engine has started. Length of time is determined by the temperature.

If you are not already a member, join www.frenchcarforums.co.uk If you do a search you'll find a map of all members with Lexia who are willing to allow you to visit them.

Try running it without an air filter - but only for a short time.

That's interesting! Did you need to move the washer spout?

1997 would be XUD 1.9ltr engine. Yes - at least three glowplugs must be good to get half decent starting. They can be tested in situ but I always found it best to take them out and put them across a battery and see them glow. On the other hand, XUDs are reluctant to start if there's air in the system. Have you tried pumping up the hand primer before trying the first start of the day. The primer should feel solid before starting.

I used these. They've been in for more than a year now:- http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/pr/ign-super-bright-433c-led/

Fuel gauges are never very accurate. From full, my last Xantia did 100 miles before moving off the full mark. It took ages to get to half-full. Then quickly dropped towards empty.

If you can hear the accumulator clicking more than once in very 20 seconds, the sphere needs changing.

Don't take this as gospel - but the Citroen part numbers look the same on early C5 and facelift models.

Look on ebay france. Here's one from a quick search. If there's one, there'll be others. http://cgi.ebay.fr/Phare-Citroen-Xantia-droit-NEUF-ref-6205-R9-/150555256887?pt=JG_FR_Auto_Pi%C3%A8ces&hash=item230dcae837

No need to disconnect the battery if you're removing the bumper. You're right - sidelight bulbs are troublesome to change. Some say it can be done under the bonnet, in which case remove battery for access - others say remove the bumper and undo the screws holding the headlights. I always have to take the bumper off. Going on the frequency that the bulbs blow, it's worth considering LED's

Personally, I wouldn't bother about engine additives. Use a good quality engine oil with an oil & filter change at between 6 & 10thou miles. Fuel additives - yes - I use Millers Sports4. Giving an extra dose in the weeks before MOT, I find all four cars sail through the emissions test.

Look under the bonnet. The 110 has an intercooler. The 90 hasn't. Or look at the VIN number. The 90 has RHY in it. The 110 has RHZ.

But not only that. You need to 'tell' the ecu that i's been done, otherwise it assumes the eolys tank is still empty. That means a visit to Citroen - or someone with a Lexia outfit.

Yes! it works. In fact the exchange filters fitted by Citroen are probably cleaned ones. Of course, if you are an environmentalist you might worry about the 'dirty' water being washed into the drains. :angry:

In November my daughter put her Xsara into an independent Cit dealer for new belt, new tensoners and change of water pump. Total cost was £450. I recently bought the same kit to do my C5 (when the weather warms up) and the belt kit and water pump plus VAT came to £120.

On the straight side of the unit (nearest the headlight) there's a little plastic hook. Use a square ended blade to puh it down slightly then pull the unit forward.