Johndouglas

That's the same filter that's on our older HDI. But it still has a hand primer up close to the suspension turret.

Seems odd that both my HDI's have one and yours not. Here's one of them: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Handprimer002.jpg

If you can't get new ones, look on ebay:- http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=Xantia+rear+lights&_sacat=See-All-Categories

OK..........If you have a hand primer, give it a few squeezes before starting.

Have you listened for the lift pump starting up when you first switch on?

I would stick with the recommended size. Changing is going to run you into the additional expense of five new rims. Also a 215/16 tyre is at least 25quid dearer than a 205/15.

Maybe, and maybe not.............. but get involved in an accident, if the insurance discover you're not running on the correct rating, then you've given them a loophole to declare your insurance void. In the past I've used Khumo which I found good at around 80quid a corner, but currently I'm on Barum Bravuris 2 215/55/16W which were a similar price.

This any good? http://www.maxliner.co.uk/van_lining/Citroen_Berlingo_2008_Onwards_Van_Ply_lining_Kits.html

As with any car, take a walk around it and be satisfied on its appearance. Check tyre condition and if seriously worn estimate about a 100 quid per corner. The tailgate window should open by squeezing below the wiper arm. It's often the first function to fail. As soon as the doors are unlocked/opened the suspension should rise to running height. With the engine running, check the height switch behind the handbrake. One press on the rear should lower the car. One, two then three on the front switch should move it to maximum height. Window opening and closing can be checked on the switches. As can the heating and cooling. Also the outside temperature reading on the dash panel. Cambelt are recommended to be changed at 150K miles but for safety a more realistic mileage is 85K so check if a change has been carried out. If not it would be worth negotiating on the point. For belt, water pump and pulleys + labour estimate £4 - £500. When driving check for knocking noises from the suspension both on the front and back. Front could be drop links and bushes and bearings on the rear. You didn't say the year of the car but if it's after 2004 then it's likely that it will have a FAP filter. As part of the servicing, eventually the filter will need cleaning and the Eolys fluid tank refilling. Warning that the time is approaching is given in the central display. If they are looked after, the C5's will run to huge mileages. Check the service history. Recommended is every 20000 miles, but sooner is better. Good luck

The float could be stuck by overfill but being too full doesn't cause any problems. Only likely to be messy if it overflows. Remove the filler bung and if you can just touch the surface of the fluid with a finger, then it's about right. Regarding the accumulater sphere; how many times per minute do you hear the pressure regulator open. If it's twice, that's OK. More times then maybe it should be changed.

See what you mean. Just looked in Haynes and at the start of the section it says you need a new rivet kit. Later it says to drill out the old ones. Any reason why you shouldn't use small nuts and bolts.

What's the LHM like? Is it reasonably fresh? Is the level correct? Check on max. height for the yellow disc being between the two red rings. Are the new spheres correct for the car? Hydractive take different ones from Non-H. Also saloons different from estates. Even different between front axle and rear.

Do the heads you're looking at have a 6 pointed star shape in the centre? If so you need a torx driver of the right size.

What sort of runs are you doing and in what gear? HDI's are noticeably thirsty around town, especially when the engine is cold. Get into top gear with the rev counter at around 2000 and you should be getting 50mpg. Also check for front binding brakes, incorrect tyre pressures and a bootfull of extra weight.

That's what HDI's do. In fact unless the temperature is below -5C, the engine should start without the plugs. When you first switch on, can you hear the pump in the fuel tank start up? It only runs for a short time. Before you start is the battery voltage showing at least 12.7?

Do you have a towbar fitted?

Forgot to convert 110 Euros to GBP at .85p. :) Also just checked the current price of gasoil - it's around a quid per litre. So that line should read:- 110 Euros at £1 per ltr (Holland price) would buy 93.5 litres. Redoing the sums still make it only 24mpg for the journey.

I reckon Steve that you've included the price of a slap up meal on the boat - both ways - otherwise the figures don't add up. £95 at say £1.28p ltr. would buy 74 litres. 110 Euros at .80p ltr (Holland price) would buy 137 litres That's a total of 211 litres which equal around 46 gallons. To use 46galls over 900 miles means you're only getting around 20mpg which can't be right.

It's called a door protector and its Cit. part number is 8545 - although that may be modified slightly according to build date.

No. With diesels all they test is the smoke. Early HDI's didn't have filters. But it's no good just removing the filter. The ECU needs to be told that there's no filter system present. To quote a previous reply just click on "reply" then cut out what you don't want.

Hi and welcome to the forum. We have a couple of other taxi drivers in the membership so Coastline will probably reply to you soon. Meanwhile I'll agree with some of the things you say, Mine also gets through front tyres at a rate of knots. Also with the frequency of bulb changing. Mine has xenons so I haven't needed to change those. But sidelight bulbs go frequently so now I've got LEDs in there. I agree with you about the front pillars; they do obstruct vision. As regards the closing windows - they're supposed to do that, although I think the facility can be switched off. Regarding the diesel filter blocked message. That isn't referring to the fuel filter, it's the FAP filter under the car. Maybe your eolys fluid needs checking and the FAP changing or cleaned.

The battery light should go out as soon as the engine starts. 1. make sure all the connections are secure and clean. 2. Check that the alternator drive belt is not slipping. 3. Get the alternator looked at.

Sounds like the fuel filter is in need of attention. Maybe water in the bottom of the bowl. If you don't know the history of the car, I would change all the filters.

So if the starter spins maybe the pinion on the starter and/or the ring gear has missing teeth. But then it would make horrible graunching noises. Have a look at the teeth on the end of the starter and on the ring gear around the flywheel. The engine usually stops in the same position.

The hand primer shouldn't be collapsed. With the engine switched off, after two or three squeezes the bulb should be solid. Sounds as though the fuel system is being starved. Check the vent pipe to the fuel tank. Maybe also the fuel pickup is sitting in a load of sediment.