Johndouglas

So each branch of Halfords must be allowed to decide for themselves what can or can't be done. When mine went for the first time - just a couple of days before MOT, I took it to my local store. He asked for make and model and referred to his computer. All I got was "Sorry mate, we don't do that one."

You could try opening each window fully, then closing but hold the close button for 10 secs after fully closed. That may or may not work. If not you'll have to do a battery/BSI reset first to clear the previously stored stop positions. This is the routine: Put down the driver's window, close all the doors and remove the ign. key. Wait 3 minutes then disconnect the pos. terminal on the battery and touch it to earth. Wait a minute or so and reconnect the battery. Wait a further 15 seconds. Do not open any doors but switch on the sidelights through the window. Switch on the ignition and check the systems functionality. Hold the lock button down for 10 seconds. Remove the key and open and close the doors and test the locking system. Start the engine and close the windows pressing the button till they reach the top and continue to hold for a few seconds.

I can't - but here's a website which may help. Key in your reg number and it will give you your tyre size and pressures. Unless you want to go on and buy tyres, you need not go any further. http://www.tyre-shopper.co.uk/tyre-pressure.asp

If you do have a thermostatic sensor, its job when the engine is cold is to pull the arm into the fast idle position. As the coolant hots up the sensor opens and allows the fast idle arm to return to its normal position. If you have one, yours may have broken in the fast position.

On other forums I've read about guys who have cleaned them by using a high pressure water jet on them until the jet runs clean. And usually there are comments added by the 'greenies' who say it is toxic waste and should be disposed of in a correct manner. But is it toxic? It's the ash of cerium oxide which I used to use loads of as a polishing compound.

I don't know what your garage had to do but I put a new washer in our Pug 306 a few months ago and it cost £11.50 from GSF.

It's a bumper off job to replace them (although it's been said that there's no need to). So far I've had to change mine twice so now I've replaced them with LEDs

Yes - the washers should work when the headlights are on. Yes - you'll need to take the bumper off to get to them. The spray covers come in pairs - unpainted and the part number is 7414JC from Cit dealers.

You could try a company similar to this one:- http://www.dentdevils.co.uk/home.php Google "Paintless dent repairs" and lots will come up.

The same part number bolt is used on the Xantia's rear calipers and the torque figure for those is given as only 47Nm. I don't think you need be too fussed about them.

Do you have a fast idle thermostatic sensor set into the thermostat housing? It will have a cable running from it to your fuel pump.

I aim to change the coolant in all our cars every two years, although I haven't done the C5 yet. That's supposed to be every 5 years. None of my cars have a drain tap on the radiator so the bottom hose needs to be taken off. There's also a drain on the rear of the engine blocks but I don't bother with them. I let the old coolant drain away then stick a hose into the header tank to flush it through. Reconnect the bottom hose and refill with 50-50 water and anti-freeze. I use water from a dehumidifier. Open the bleed screws - usually two of them, and leave them open until coolant runs from them. Fill the header tank and start the engine at a tick over. If the header tank is at the same level as the rad top, you may need a suitably cut bottle stuck into the tank to raise the level. Keep topping up until the coolant level ceases to fall and coolant flows from the bleed valves. It's as well to check the level after 20 miles or so.

Spammer :)

On HDI's the glowplugs don't begin to operate until temperature is down to minus degrees.

100K or every ten years - but better done a bit earlier.

Don't know how close you are to Sawtry but there's a guy called Martin who runs an engineering workshop called Pleiades. It's at Unit 12A, Brookside Industrial Estate, Sawtry, PE28 5SB The phone is 01487 831239. I'm told it's off the A1M between St. Neots and Peterborough. Citroen hydraulics is Martin's speciality and he probably has the pipework you need in stock. I just don't know whether he does mobile work.

Any C5 before mid 2004 will be a Mk1. After 2004 till 2008ish they will be Mk2 or facelift. I'm not sure about Mk1's but Mk2 have the lowest spec called the LX. Then there's Design, then VTR and at the top are Exclusives. LX & Designs have 1.6 engines; the VTR and Exclusives have 2ltr. VTR and Exclusives are very similar, but the Exclusives have tyre pressure warning, parking assistance, laminated side glass, six CD autochanger, xenon headlights, auto door mirrors and a few bits and pieces like mats and rear blinds. Unfortunately the spec list changes from year to year. A feature that was fitted in one year isn't guaranteed in later years. For instance, xenon HID lights which were fitted to Exclusive C5's are now a £1000 option.

A water pump adds around 30quid+ to the total job. To have to change the pump in 6-12 months time will be like doing the cambelt job all over again.

So just a youngster then? :unsure:

Open the bonnet and look at the headlamp casing. If they are xenon the white label will have 'xenon' on it together with a lightning symbol and a 25000volts warning.

Does it have halogen bulbs or HID xenons? If it has xenons it will also have headlamp washers.

I should try and find an independent Citroen garage who could replace the pipe for you. Here's a diagram of the pipework:- http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i53/Johndug/Returnpiping.jpg From your description it looks as though the pipe is No 1 on the diagram. If so, it's Citroen part number is 5270QV. Pipe number 2 (which you may not have) is 5270QT.

They tend to glow pink prior to burning out. Maybe you should start looking for a replacement.

As you stand in front of the car there are two belts which go around the crankshaft pulley. The one which comes up to the left drives the alternator. The one on the right goes under a tensioner pulley, up over the power steering pump, then down around the air con compressor and back around the crank pulley. Both belts need to be tight otherwise they will slip/come off.

I hope that isn't on a 1.6HDI. Citroen has published a comprehensive list of instructions to dealers regarding oil changes. One of them:- Allow the oil to drain by gravity for at least 10 minutes (DO NOT USE SUCTION METHODS) This was because of the huge number of turbo failures.