Johndouglas

Yes, a fixed towball will cause the sensors to sound each time reverse is used. How do I know? Because mine does it. I could use a removable ball but I also use a fixed bike rack behind the ball. I just put up with it.

Use a small screwdriver and prise the light away from the boot lid. Remove the wiring connector. Bend the tag on the side of the fitting which will release the bulb holder.

My guess would be that the rad leak hasn't been fixed. However long it stands, it shouldn't loose any coolant.

Yes! sounds similar to what was on my Xantia. You're lucky to have it. Many models don't have a drain plug now. Only means of draining is to remove the bottom hose. Penny pinchers!!!!

I don't think you need be unduly worried about the needle reaching 90. That's about normal - even if it did reach that temperature within 2 miles. Keep an eye on it and if it doesn't go higher or any warning lights come on, it should be OK.

Coolant is what's in the radiator and what moves around the engine to stop overheating. Antifreeze is added to the coolant. It not only stops the water freezing, but also stops the water making the internal parts corrode. It only needs changing every two years or so. With the engine cold, you could remove the cap on the header tank and see if the level is about an inch below the neck. If not, it needs topping up - if it's not much, plain water would do.

It's unlikely that ZX are different from Pug 205 and those I've removed anti-CW. They are very tight - about 200 lbs/ft. I use a socket and tommybar with a 3 foot double forked bar.

It's a few years since I had a Xantia so memory is a bit rusty. The three screws hold the carpet lining behind the glove box. They need to be removed - torx I think. The pollen filter unit is behind the glove box and will have a sliding cover on the bottom edge. Slides towards the centre line and is held in place by four lugs. Don't just pull or breakage will occur. When the cover is off, the old filter pulls down. Notice which way it comes out. The new replaces in the same way.

Aren't they the same thing? Maybe you mean camber angle.

Before you start changing headlights, make sure they will be accepted at MOT. From what I read, added xenon lights for instance are not allowed.

By the time your engine came into being, it probably has the FAP and additive tank. Mine is just a little bit younger and it has the filter. But it's supposed to be good for a 100K.

Whyever did they drop the xenon lights from the executive model. And add £1400 if you want them.

I've replied elsewhere - but you should have a matching key for your bolts. The key would have a code number on it. If you have the code, Citroen would be able to supply a replacement. Without the key, a tyre depot can remove the locking bolts for you, but before you go get a replacement set. Halford's do them.

Of the four bolts holding on an alloy wheel, one of them will probably be a locking bolt. It has its own series of lugs moulded into the head. You should have been given the matching key to fit the bolt. Without it, the locking bolt can be removed, but it will be ruined. See a tyre depot - they will have the know-how.

Citroen will supply what people want to buy. If there's a demand for diesels that's what will be turned out. Not surprised it's difficult to find a petrol version on the forecourts. Of all the guys on these forums, most of them drive oil-burners.

Yes! I've been there!

Not sure about the size of the C3 sump plug but all my vehicles require an 8mm 6 sided hex socket to remove the plug. Sounds as though yours has had a heavy handed mechanic on it. Shouldn't need tightening more than around 7lbs/ft.

That's what I thought! IMHO, not worth the risk to end up with a failure notice.

Well you obviously don't like diesels. Look at my signature - we have four of them and none of the last three have been near a garage for years - except for MOT test. I can't help but contrast your post with another one today where a guy runs three C5's and he's very happy with them. Each to his own.

Regarding the manual - Haynes seem to be promising one for the C5 by the autumn.

I have a fuel computer on my C5 and I enjoy checking consumption against varying speeds - sad isn't it? Mine is the 2ltr engine so expected figures will be lower than the 1.6. The highest figure I've ever attained was 60mpg at an average of 55mph over a 40 mile run. From that point, the higher the speed goes, the lower the consumption figure becomes. So at 70+ the consumption falls to 46mpg. Load, head wind or roof box will lower it even further. I also find it beneficial to switch off the cruise control on steep hill climbing. Whether or not the Piccy's computer is as accurate as the C5, I don't know, but I find the speedometer agrees to within 1mph with satnav. Also over a return run from London to Malaga, I kept a record of fuel fills and later checked the consumption against the amount of fuel purchased. Both records more or less agreed on the fuel consumption. Regarding oil dripping from the trunking. There's always a film of oil within the trunking to the turbo but probably there shouldn't be sufficient to drip. I haven't heard of it as a common problem, so it may just be a fault on that particular car.

Exhaust smell is as you say, overspray. But that should quickly burn off and the smell disappear. Might be worth having the thermostat checked. It could be stuck open.

If you don't mind me saying so - I think you're crazy. I've had an identical car for the past three years, and will continue with it. I look after it myself. I know the car and I know what's been done on it.

It will be the intermediate bearing holding in the shaft. Try putting a drift on the inner side and giving it a smack with a hammer.

It's as well to change the filter at the same time as the oil change. If your oil filter is the same as the 2ltr engine, you need a 27mm socket on a ratchet handle.