qman3428

The C5 has an exposed Heat exchanger (radiator) at the front of the normal radiator, a stone can easily damage it causing a leak. It can be changed by a competent DIY mechanic but it should not be underestimated as it is a big job. New heat exchanger on Ebay is £125 but the main dealer charges £500 to change it out and regass the system. I chose the option of opening the window.

I had a 1,4 diesel C3 and put over 60k on it, as it already had 40k when I bought it the cam belt had done 100k, I took a look and checked its condition and believed my main agent when he said 150k, never a problem. Now have the new shape C5 which is changed at 100k at the dealers recomendation. Had mine done at 103k and it looked good for another 40k. I had the water pump and pulleys done at the same time, total cost £450.

Probably the drop links (was on mine) I found them difficult to diagnose as the play is only there at specific loads on the wheels. i.e not with the wheel on the ground and not with the wheel in the air. Found it by jacking up the car, Taking off the wheel and putting it under the disk then lowering the car on to it while levering the ball joints on the drop link. In mid range it became obvious, New ones from Fleabay where £18.00 and while it is a DIY job you will need a good tool set.

2.0 hdi exclusive saloon on an 09 plate, now covered 115000 miles, has been chipped, K&N panel filters and defapped. Performance is excellent and she has never failed to get me home. Fuel filters need changing every 10k or you get the depolution fault and limp mode. Just stop the car and restart it. The fault still shows but the limp option has gone. Needing new tyres soon and cant decide what to put on it, any recommendations? I need good mileage, reasonable grip and a quiet tyre. Found Michelins are expensive and not necessarily long lived, Goodyears wore out quickly. Have used Bridgestones on a previous vehicle with good results.

John A S just so you know there is a brilliant Citroen dealer in Eccleston, suggest you get them to do a diagnostic. You will find them on the green.

Just a quick note to say I use Rigbeys on my C5 and and previously on a C3 and Xantia and have found them to be exceptionally clued up on fault finding and always looking to minmse the costs (Yes I know, from a main dealer!). I would strongly recommend them.

Had a similar problem on my daughters golf, it was a plastic water bottle which had rolled under the seat and was pulling on the connector.

John A S, I think you will save money in the long run by getting a diagnostic check done Ivorcitroen, try changing the fuel filter as they clog easily and the first sign is hesitation.

The key thing for the DPF is that it is low ash. Comma offer this advice:- One way to identify a Low SAPs oil is to look for an ACEA ‘C’ classification – C1, C2, C3 or C4 (It doesn’t necessarily follow that C1, is better or worst than C2, C3 or C4 – they are just different). ACEA (The European Automobile Manufacturers Association) sets standards for engine oils in Europe and its specification for Low SAPS oils begins with a ‘C’. However, most vehicle manufacturers have their own specifications for Low SAPS oils which can make the job of identifying the right oil for your vehicle quite complicated. An easier and safer way to make sure you’re getting the right engine oil is to use Comma’s online recommendation service. By entering your vehicle registration or selecting your vehicle from the list, we’ll tell you which product you need. What’s more, we guarantee every recommendation we make. You can find the right oil for your car by using the vehicle lookup. Just tried the lookup on my registration and it helpfully tells me the clutch fluid I need but fails to identify the car is an automatic and an exclusive so on LDS fluid.

I can only tell you that is how mine work

Symtoms would suggest you need to change the fuel filter rather than the EGR, at least that was the cause on mine.

The electric seat auto position doesnt work when the car is moving, because it is a safety issue. The seat can be adjusted maunally using the controls.

If you have glow plugs working and fuel the only other thing is compression as these are the three ingredients for a diesel engine to run. I would get a compression test done which will tell you if it is a duff head gasket/ cracked head or a duff engine. Glow plugs are really only used when it is cold, in the summer they are not needed at all so 2 seconds is OK. You say you have fuel, but with the bolts loose crank the engine (be careful fuel under pressure is very dangerous) see it the fuel is dribbling or there is a quantity. If a dribble you know fuel is the issue. What caused this to start, did it just stop or have you rebuilt the engine? How did it run before it stopped? Are there any engine codes listed? When did you last change the fuel filter? Try resetting the ECU.

When did it last have the filters and oil in the gearbox changed? could be a simple fix.

Anyone know if a lexia can be used to change the service interval?

I bought my car with 16000 on the clock, the book showed it had not been serviced so I contacted my local main dealer who advised 20K. I had it serviced by an indy at 20 k and have done subsequent services myself every 20k. The car now has 112k on the clock, runs well and has no engine issues. These days oil is better (use the correct grade) filters are better and engines are built to finer tolerances, so the old requirements are no longer applicable. That said those with a 1600 should reduce there service intervals if they want the turbo to last

It could be that the song format on the iphone is one of apples custom formats (.aac is used by itunes) the most common format for music is mp3 so try putting some songs on a usb stick using mp3 format and see if they work. if they do then you will need to back up all the songs on your iphone to your PC, then rip them to mp3 format. Once loaded you have a solution.

Not an expert and I have aa slightly older car, but wouldn't you play music from the headphone socket to a matching socket on the car? I think mine is in the glove box. Wouldn't have thought that USB was the right way of doing it.

If you get the depolution error it can be a multiple of issues which causes it. Cheap checks are:- Disconnect the MAF, if it runs better suspect the maf is faulty. Change the fuel filter, it blocks easily and gives a host of problems. Changing the DPF filter by itself wont help as you probably need to refill the Eloys at the same tiime and you will then need to reset the ECU with a Lexia so it knows it has been filled The error code above is the EGR and blanking it off wont remove the error, though it could fix the problem. If the EGR is defective, and reporting it is defective, then only replacing it, or removing it from the software, will get rid of the error light. Using a lexia to diagnose the fault is only any good if you have the experience to understand the results. For example, mine said I had low fuel pressure but gave no reason why, there are a mutitude of possibilities but the main dealer identified the fuel filter was the culprit. So a quick change avoided the "trial and see" process of changing sensors.

The engine definately has glow plugs but they are not like the old style ones that you had to wait for, no more the 30 second preheat then turn it over and hope it starts. The modern HDI engine will start pretty much straight off in UK winters, If it gets very cold you might have to wait 5 seconds but that is it. Once the indicator lights on the dash are out you can turn her over.

Dont rush in to buying a new airflow meter, try unplugging it first, if the car improves you know you are on to the culprit. When was the fuel filter last changed as they need to be done regularly and can cause the issues you describe

All very valid comments but I am comming up to retirement and this would be my retirement car. I therefore expect it to be the last car I would buy. Fuel consumption is listed as 73 mpg which is not to be sniffed at, however the battery has a guaranteed life of 8 years, so expecting the 8 year old car would need a new battery, even if it is not high mileage, I want to be able to do the sums to see if this car is justified or I should just go with the less efficient versions. Taking in to account the issues of getting older i will be going for an automatic, so the 20.hdi DS5 only gives 46 mpg. The research I have been doing has possibly given me the answer in that the car can be used in 4 wheel drive mode where the front wheels are deisel and the rear are electric, so in this mode, even with a dead battery I would still have a diesel engine and could pull away. One of the things to consider is depreciation as an old hybrid, which might need a battery, is diesel so could need a DPF and at 100k will need a cam belt, the value of the car will be very poor. If this is reflected in the early years then a low mileage 2 year old car could be a bargain.

I am considering buying the DS5 hybrid but have a query, if the hybrid battery is dead can the car be run on the diesel engine only. I understand the car starts on the electric motor and only once a certain speed is achieved does the diesel start.So if the hybrid battery gets old and costs to much to replace can the car still be run? One for the experts out there!

Interesting that Black Circles list all the tyres available and grade them, amongst other things, by the noise level you should expect http://www.blackcircles.com/order/tyres/search This is the search for my car and I dont have any tyre noise issues (saloon not the estate) but my tyres are listed as quiet.

Not sure about the petrol engines but it sounds like the choke sensor is activated but not going off. My thinking is that when you restart the engine it has warmed up so doesn't activate the choke and therefore you dont have the issue. This would tie in with your excess fuel theory causing the depollution fault.