MikeLane

Fuel filter blocked?

Oh Dear! Another thing you metioned is "Current wheels are 215/55/16 winter tires on steel wheels." If the "Winter" Tyres are reinforced the ride will be harder.

Forgot to say that on my CX, BXs, Xantia and C5 people have said that the clutches are heavy compared to the various makes they drove.

For what it's worth, my Xantia started pitching whilst in France and it turned out that I needed a couple of new front spheres. The garage used the chassis number to determine which spheres I needed as, strangely, they "changed" from time to time during the production run!! So, in your case perhaps "wrong" replacement spheres have been fitted.

ISO fixings are not mentioned in the Mk2 (2004-8) C5 tech. spec. but they do refer to "Force Limiters on two outer rear seats" and there's a picture of a Child Seat shown under "accessories you won't want to be without" so fixings might have been available if ordered as an option. Doubt if much is now available for this model. Mk3 C5s have ISO fixings as standard.

Not sure whether the Mk1 (2001) C5 needs the engine to run for the suspension to work. or does it have an electric pump (as Mk2)?

"As well as the belt and its tensioner, there may also be a pulley and the water pump which do not last forever and should always be replaced when the belt is replaced." Surely the water pump is driven by the auxilliary belt. But I agree. This belt and the water pump should also be replaced at the same time as the cam belt - or earlier if the belt shows signs of cracking.

"I should buy a C5 tourer early." Does this mean that not many more will be produced?

...and please let us know what the problem was/is.

"this time when i stopped and took the key out and got out i turned back to realize the car was still running. After a minute it cut out." Ignition switch problem? (Try squirting a little WD40 into the ignition keyhole.)

"The nearside is the worse one, with the battery being so close, but still possible with patience. It took me about 20 minutes to do them both" Much quicker and easier with the battery out but then there's the good old BSI reset.....!!!

Just a thought. Could the car be short of Eolys (or whatever this model uses). At 70000 I think it's got to the point where the service guide says that the tank should be topped up (Lexia wil advise if it's low). My 2005 1.6 HDi (109Kmiles) gives this warning occasionally, particularly whilst driving uphill, but clears itself after either some miles of level driving or giving it a bit of wellie. (I've never topped it up or had "Low Eolys" warning.)

Is this any help? http://www.npautoparts.co.uk/car-maintenance-c2/haynes-manuals-c49/workshop-manual-for-citroen-c5-2001-2008-p856/s2199?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=haynes-workshop-manual-for-citroen-c5-2001-2008-4745&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&gclid=CLW41tKl2ckCFQefGwod9ecKdA

When you say "it isn't working any more" and "cant get it to start" what do you actually mean? When you put the key in and turn it do any lights come up on the dash, does the engine turn over etc.?

Just replaced both sidelamp bulbs and found, particularly on driver's side, that if once the bulb(s) is/are replaced one turns the sidelamps ON it's much easier to see (from the front of the car) where to refit the holder.

"Putting them back involves groping around and pushing the bulb holder while watching the diffuser - when it lights up you're aligned , then it just pushes in. Best done in darkness." I missed this from Seefive but found, with the side lamps ON it's much easier to "find the hole" than just groping.

"red x" Just read fozzy's post and it brought it all back. Out with the spark plugs once every three months, pour some Redex into the cylinders and wait overnight. Turn the engine over a few times (use loads of rags to soak up the Redex) and then fit the plugs back. Start the engine, ignore all the white smoke and drive it round the block a couple of times. Never need a decoke!! (What's a decoke I hear you ask!)

I seem to remember that one shouldn't touch Halogen lamps with bare fingers as the crystal (glass) deteriorates very quickly if contaminated.

If you haven't locked the car and then press the "Unlock" button on the key the hazard lights do flash quickly for a few seconds. The same thing happens if you press the "Lock" button and the car is already locked. (Also the "none of the rear seatbelts are fastened" message only lasts a short while so why worry? You'll soon know whether someone in the rear seats hasn't fastened his or her belt. You'll get a lot of bleeping if you exceed 6 mph!)

If after removing the xenon kit the engine starts check the voltage at the battery terminals (with the engine running). If it's not around 14Volts the alternator may be damaged.

Don't know whether this is the right place to post this but, being older than most members I assume, I was brought up to check battery levels every few months. One can usually "unseal" batteries to get at the filler caps and check, topping up with distilled water (obtainable from fridge/freezer ice etc.) and you might, like me, find that your battery lasts for nearly 10 years!

It might be worth squirting some WD40 into the ignition keyhole as (on a Xantia) I had a similar, intermittent, problem I assume was because of a poor contact in the switch.

What year is your car? The suspension (on my 2005 and later - not sure about Mk 1s) is driven by an electric pump so I'd leave it in "normal" if you think there are problems with keeping the battery charged. When you unlock and get into the car it automatically tries to level itself when left in "normal". If you leave it in low you will have to use battery power if the charging system isn't working correctly to raise the car to "normal" before driving off. As ESL57 says, check the voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running. It should be just over 14 volts if the alternator is charging properly (or able to charge properly!).

I needed to replace both sidelamp bulbs. Took the battery out and (just) managed the N/S bulb then read the Haynes manual for the driver's side and it says "turn the bulbholder anti-clockwise and remove". There's virtually no space to do this so what tool do I need PLEASE.

Try the following link. It's a 75Ah Battery with a 4 year warranty and many customers have fitted it to C5 Diesels. https://www.tayna.co.uk/096-Enduroline-Car-Battery-700CCA-P8383.html Costs about £68 including delivery!