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Everything posted by Simple
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Thank you clipper for the complement and good luck with your new car. I have recently been viewing cars that may fit my family, but to be honest, I yet to find a car as an all rounder as the C8. After 7 years together and with all its idiosyncrasies, I have a soft spot in my heart for this gentle beast.
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Your case is similar to mine, it happens early morning and once the car is warm, after restarting the car three times it is gone.. Initially I thought it was the DPF, which I took apart and cleaned, it improved the situation but did not resolve it. Then I thought it was the fuel additive, which was not empty, but I topped up (at a cost). Initially there was some strange noise that I thought it was the injectors, then after months it sounded like a bad bearing screeching. I changed the timing belt and associated pulleys (fearing a cut and the bigger disaster), to no avail. I then traced the noise with a flexible pipe and found a leak from the exhaust manifold, used Gun Gum to block it (after cleaning the area) and both the noise and the fault are gone. I bought the Exhaust manifold gasket (6 Euros) and some extra nuts inn case of damage, and waiting for a nice long weekend to replace it. The reason was the DPF reporting wrong pressure to the ECU due to the leakage at the source (Exhaust gasket), so it thinks it is blocked.. The moral of the story, search for a leak before the DPF unit, this may be reporting wrong exhaust pressure readings to the ECU.
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Only German has long words like this!!
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Diagbox Psa Evolution Xs - Vci Interface Help
Simple replied to Aldispatch's topic in General Discussion and Nonsense
Your clone seems identical to mine (bought from Aliexpress for 56 Euros Oct 2014). It is considered a Full Chip and has the full optocoplers set, the TDK filter and other smaller components. Some older PSA cars use Lexia or PP2000 through DiagBox on 32bit Windows. The newer cars use DiagBox it self on 32 or 64bit Windows. I have just checked and found the C1 is one of those cars that use DiaGbox!! Now, DiagBox v7 ends at v07.77, any later updates actually belong to v8, so 7.83 is actually update 8.19 adapted for v7. DiagBox v8 and updates 8.01-17 did not need changes to the original files, this is why I did not include 18 or 19 or any further updates which required heavy changes to the original. Hence, you may stand a chance updating to DiagBox 7.83 and if it does not work, perform a full update to 08.17, your car would not benefit from further updates since they are specific to Lexia and PP2000. If you do not want to use Lexia or PP2000 you can use 64 bit Windows and you can name your DiagBox 08.17 (review the posts) instead of 07.817, but I would stick with procedure until you find your feet. I tried to look into PSA site to see which updates cover which cars, but they removed the older archives and the latest available is 08.21. You can check here: http://service.citroen.com/dtt/IFD/AC/documents/en_GB/ Good luck, Simple ! -
My sons were carefully working on the car; they actually reached near final stages before rolling back. It was a great learning exercize for them, nevertheless.
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Diagbox Psa Evolution Xs - Vci Interface Help
Simple replied to Aldispatch's topic in General Discussion and Nonsense
Your VCI (from the photos) is a full chip one. Also, from the last photo showing the PSA Interface Checker identifying your VCI Firmware as 4.3.0, you don't have (VCI to Computer) USB connection issues. By the way, the latest firmware release is 4.3.5 if you wish to upgrade. Try choosing Citroen C1 manually and entering correct RPO, see if it recognising the VIN #. Failing that, check the car fuses and focus on the connector cable from VCI to OBDII, ensure all wires are connected/soldered properly. Always ensure that your setup connects to other PSA cars so that you don't waste time suspecting a functional setup. -
At the latest stages before taking the exhaust manifold out, we hit a show stopper (seized nut and hex bolt), some welding may be necessary to force them out, but we have to prepare replacement parts first. So, due to late hours, we had to reassemle and resort to using Gun Gum to block leakage temporarly. Hopefully we'll have another go some other weekend.
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Thanks Paul, You are right, the Service Box documentations are a little short on procedure this time. I don't have the intention or the tools to lift the engine, so I will evaluate access to the various parts before the attempt. It is a little too late to write to coasline taxis as we intend to have a go at it today (if the weather improves; it has been windy and raining all night). I wanted to start before the weekend in case I need to buy unexpected parts.
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Last year, my Citroen C8 2.0 HDI engine noise was a tad too high and sometimes there was a smell of diesel fumes after starting (when cold). I could not locate the source visually, so I used an elastic pipe with one end stuck to my ear and the other hovering around the engine until I found the source, which was a small leak in the exhaust manifold gasket. It was not much, so I ignored it. For the past few months I was getting DPF failures, later the car gradually developed a high screeching noise after 1800 RPM (sounds like a bad bearing) that receded to a high pitch whine at high speeds, add to that power was not at its best either. First, I excluded the serpentine belt and the pulleys/bearings associated with it by removing it, starting and revving the engine. At that stage, I was convinced that the noise is either from the Turbo saying his last prayers (since it starts around 1800 RPM) or from the timing belt and associated pulleys/bearings like water pump, tensioner etc... I replaced the timing belt, the water pump, the tensioner and the idling pulley (they were due anyway), but the noise is still present. I was not in a hurry to fix it, until the time for the annual test arrived!!. I then investigated the Turbo, but it was in good form. However, on a cold morning, I started the car and I could see black water bubbles coming out between the manifold and the engine body (near the timing belt) where I identified it earlier. I stuffed the hole in the side of the manifold (probably the gasket has disintegrated) with “Gun Gum†and built an extra ridge reaching the edge to prevent the exhaust force from blowing it out. 1- The screeching noise is “unbelievably†gone. 2- Engine power and responsiveness have improved. 3- The DPF failures are gone (obviously, the sensor was reporting lower pressure than expected). I know this is a temporary solution, which will not last. So I bought the Exhaust manifold gasket for my engine, it was 6 Euros at the dealer, but he did not have it, so I bought Elring from a parts shop. Now comes the difficult part which I was trying to avoid; fitting the gasket!!! I have reasonable experience in car mechanics, and have changed head, inlet manifold and exhaust manifold gaskets for other cars before. However, I have never done that for this engine with the very limited space. I would appreciate advice from those who may have changed exhaust gaskets for this engine without removing the engine. My concerns are these: 1- The disassembling of the manifold and associated parts (like Turbo and EGR) and precautions or preparations? 2- Any further requirements such as gaskets of other components that need to be removed in the process? 3- I am expecting to find that the engine and manifold surfaces at the leakage point have been deformed/pitted and may need to be filled by welding, is this needed?, are there easier ways like filling with Gun Gum or any other past/ compound?. 4- Any other recommendation. Thanks in advance. Simple.
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Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
Can you use a UK based proxy server to access the required pages?? -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
If you clean the board and post the photo it might be possible to see if it is easy to repair, or it might not need any repair after all !! -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
Electrolyte capacitors may swell and would require changing over time, but other semiconductor components are reasonably protected from the elements. I guess the decision would finally be based on availability and cost. This module is fitted to a number of Citroen and Peugeot cars (like C2 and 207) and it came with different prefixes and suffixes to #118470003. I think they are all interchangeable. Mine (Citroen C8 HDi) 9650663880 BSM B5, has the same size and connector layout, the same fuses but different layout, and with 2 extra (20 and 30) amp fuses. Some PSA cars came with 118470003 and the same models came with 9650663880 (with the 2 above mentioned fuses removed). I think 9650663880 can replace 118470003 but not the other way round. Of course it is best to buy the same part with the same part number, unless the manufacturer has replaced the part with a newer better designed one. -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
Is this the fuse box board? Spray WD40 and clean with a medium brush, I can see some muck or dust on the first photo. Check components for damage (do not remove parts un-necessarily). Resolder the black solder points on the second photo and reconnect the toasted line (if needed). The power deprivation symptoms were coming from the leakage on this board. You can fix a broken power line, a good indication that the feeding component is probably saved, I hope you are lucky. -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
Agree with Paul. I haven't seen the part for the petrol engines, but when you say re-wiring, do you mean re-plugging the connector or actually re-wiring, if such, why is that? shouldn't it be an exact fit? What happens if he disconnects the connector or inserts it into the original part (while grounded)?, would you still get the error? -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
Ignore the ECU and BSI communication error message if your Lexia can successfully communicate with the BSI and the ECU individually. Until the mechanic performs all checks and tests, any suggestion is a hit and miss. Am I correct in assuming that the immobilizer error appeared after he changed the throttle body? Is your ECU's firmware original or edited to change the power map or disable things like the EGR and/or DPF? -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
Obviously you can try replacing parts (which might work if the part has internal leakage causing other failures). You can delete errors after reading them, it is in the menu. DiagBox 7.65 is the last one posted by "scarymistake", it has an issue introduced in 7.61. maitresox released from 7.58 up to 7.76 (7.77 is the last in DiagBox 7 series), he then released 7.xx-7.57 and adapted the first few DiagBox v8.xx updates to V7.xx (7.78 to 7.82). According to users, the best release by Scary is 7.60 and by maitresox is 7.62 (because you can perform Telecoding on those), but they don't have the fixes more recent releases incorporate. I posted update 7.83 (which is actually 8.19), then I devised a way to install V8.01 and posted all Lexia and PP2000 updates up to 8.55 (posted last week). According to some users, they were able to perform some functions with 8.47 that they could not previously (I cannot verify). However, 8.45 comes with significantly larger firmware!! I have a C8 2.0 HDI, I am not a mechanic, and I use my Lexia few times a year and all DiagBox releases (5.xx, 6.xx, 7.xx and 8.xx) work fine with my car.. This site has more info on what was fixed in which release: http://service.citroen.com/dtt/IFD/AC/documents/en_GB/ This attachment has DiagBox 7+Updates+Firmware+Drivers+Tools (Magnet) (Passwords are in the TXT files. This is update 7.83, I am not sure if I put a password, it has been a couple of years, but if needed it is: "Simple". https://mega.nz/#!JxtQmZAZ!cyjAx-_35vXp6_m1Re1v4t9kV9yDHyXCXUEjQn6jAKg DiagBox 7+Updates+Firmware+Drivers+Tools (Magnet).txt -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
You did not say if he cleaned the Fuse Box PCB? I would not trust the diagnosis results if the root cause is a power (deprivation / leakage / bad connection) issue. You can prove that by deleting the errors and rescanning under different conditions (heat / cold / dampness / dryness), you will get different readings!! As a matter of interest, which DiagBox version are you using? -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
From the description of your issue, it sounds as if it is a power (deprivation) issue. Is it: 1- Loose or corroded connection? 2- Power leakage in the Fuse Box PCB? 3- Battery not keeping the charge? 4- Spike that is causing the error? 5- ..... All the above would need to be investigated in a sequence starting with the easiest and cheapest (minimum part changing) until issue is found. So, before changing expensive parts, I would spray the Fuse Box PCB and unplug connectors, spray them (and replug them) with some Cleaner or WD-40 as well as other related connectors and see if it works. -
Immobilizer Fault, Economy Mode, Cant Start
Simple replied to stereotypical's topic in Technical Section - C8
I hope the original reason wasn't that the fuel pump is contemplating suicide!! Hence the change of the throttle body... The car could lose the immobiliser code if the battery is very low or disconnected for a long period, so ensure your battery is in good form and fully charged. Try pressing the lock or unlock button on the key fob for 15 seconds when you turn the ignition on. Anyway, a likely reason is that some dampness/water has gone into the engine fuse box (under the bonnet - driver side), due to a known design fault. Try spraying the fuse box's PCB with water propellant (e.g. wd40 or 3 in 1) it may sort it. -
I haven't had dealings with petrol cars for some time, but what you describe might be caused by the Spark generation system, Spark Plugs, Coils, Cables or even timing.. Each fault would have other associated symptoms with it, but I am expecting these to come out as the trial and error continues.. The fault (now) sounds like a combustion problem caused by a mixture or ignition fault.. Since both are computer controlled (ECU), then it could be the Computer itself (unlikely) or the sensors (possible) or the delivery mechanism (highly possible) because it has mechanical parts that are exposed to the elements and wear and tear..
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How To Lock Flywheel To Remove Crankshft Pulley.
Simple replied to DonL's topic in Technical Section - C8
Use an "8mm thick" bar bent in an L shape (about 7CM x 18CM) to lock the flywheel, I bought an 8mm x 50cm toothed bar from a local DIY for a couple of Euros, I made 2 tools one for the Flywheel and one for the Cam (to adjust the timing on a diesel engine). The Cam side is so near to the body such that the shorter side of the L shape needs to be around 5CM, but there is enough space on the Flywheel so it can be more... Also the angel between the L sides is 90 degrees or a little more, but for the flywheel, it can be more than that, eg. 120 degrees. There is a special access point/position for this purpose on the Flywheel. -
Why did you exclude that the fault may actually be with the DPF? Did you regenerate it or physically clean it? has your car passed the 180k KM? Is it continuous or does it disappear sometimes (after long drives)? You could try taking it apart and jet washing it, I did mine in the Car Wash (it cost 2 euros). My car is diesel, and I was bothered by this problem for a long while and I discovered it was vacuum leak that was causing the problem. It was not in any of the pipes, it was in the body of the intake flap actuator which is made of heat resistant plastic. Due to friction against one of the pipes that was resting on it, its casing thinned causing a tiny little hole, hence a mixture imbalance. I discovered it by accident, I was standing in front of the opened bonnet when I asked my son to turn the car off. I heard a hissing noise that lasted few seconds, so I placed a plastic pipe against my ear and the other side hovering over the various parts until I located it. Because it is an air suction, I used a (rubbery) sealant the could take temperatures up to 300 C. The problem with hard Epoxy is that a crack could develop between the plastic and the epoxy (heat/cold). It has been working fine since repaired. With respect to Lexia, if you have the Device (VCI), then nearly any laptop 6 year old or less will do, try evaluating VirtualBox as an option to installing the software. I have written an article about this on this site, here it is:. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23435-diagbox-7xx-from-preparation-to-operation/?hl=diagbox
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Hi Paul, If you wish to tidy the thread, feel free to edit my contribution and add the following procedure (to your liking) instead of referring to external sites, other users may not be able to see the photos. I have attached a zip file with photos. I remember writing a full procedure about the subject including using the Lexia VCI to monitor the temperature while changing the ATF (oil). Alas, it has been sometime now and could not find it. However, here is the text for the Multifunction Switch: The Parking Sensors on my Citroen C8 with an AL4 Automatic gearbox suddenly stopped working. Lexia reported that they are deactivated, I also found that the Reverse Lights were not working either. This is a brief "How To" in case someone faces the same issue: Having checked all connections and fuses, the only suspect component was the Multi-Function Switch (MPLS #252927), positioned on top of the AL4 gearbox, below the air filter. The dealer quoted 120 Euros for the part; I decided to have a go at it. To remove the MPLS (having removed the air filter), remove the gear shift linkage to the gears selector, the 2 Torx screws and connector from the harness on top of the gearbox. Unscrew the little Torx screws to access the Multi-Function Switch (MLPS) and remove the cover. Inside the MLPS there is a 2 legged “Bitron S10HD Micro-Switch†with a specially shaped plunger. This unit connects power to the revers lights and Parking Sensors when the gear is in reverse position. The Micro-Switch can be tested using a “continuity tester†to the two legs and pushing the plunger few times. Mine was pitted and gave a noisy signal indicating weak connection. There is a reach adjuster in case the lever is not pushing deep enough. Pull the Micro-switch out and carefully split the cover open (using a sharp knife) and examine the contact points for pitting or damage (do not clean using sand paper, this damages the coating). The “Bitron S10HD Micro-Switch†was difficult to locate on the internet, but managed to obtain its specification sheet. Basically, what is needed is a 10 Amp, 125 Degrees Celsius and 0.6-1.0 newton (plunger activation force, about 60-100 grams). An equivalent would be the Honeywell V15T16-CP100 or V15H16-CP100 (could not locate at the time). But I found an SPDT (3 legs with lever) Honeywell Micro-Switch “V15T16-CZ100A05-K†with similar spec (around 3 Euros from Farnell/free delivery). I used the plunger from the Bitron, but needed to slightly file the cover to allow the plunger slide easily. De-solder the Red and Orange wires from the faulty part and solder them in the respective legs of the new part, replace into position and test; if all is well, reassemble everything back ensuring correct MPLS "Neutral" positioning. It has been running reliably for more than a year. reverse switch1.zip
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I am glad it worked for you. I had to change the “Bitron S10HD Micro-Switch†inside my MPLS (Multifunction Switch) and replace it with Honeywell Micro-Switch “V15T16-CZ100A05-Kâ€. I was quite sure that I posted the procedure on this site, but cannot find it. However, here it is: http://cartechnology.co.uk/showthread.php?tid=20557&highlight=parking+sensors It may come helpful to you or other users.
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I did, there are a couple of threads about AL4 GearBox, here is one: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23818-c8-2003-auto-gearbox/ and here is the Switch adjustment: http://www.peugeot206cc.co.uk/repair-206/206/info/gb/b2cg79k3.htm Watch the video and follow the instructions in the above manual, you don't need to remove many parts other than the air filter. However, if you have not touched the switch during the valves replacement, then I suspect the reason is that you did not place the springy arm correctly (11:12 in the video). It actually has an adjustment tool. But if the shift is insignificant, then adjusting the switch will do the job.