MichaelDavis

Thanks Paul

Any ideas anyone - Paul, Coastline?

That is exactly the place I was referring to Paul, I checked my neighbours C5 2007 2.0hdi saloon and he has now cut a section of the cowling away from the pipe so is no longer touching. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned checking their C5s as 2 out of 3 vehicles not being right is not a great ratio is it? It's a serious issue if people leave it as it will wear through the pipework- I even saw a C5 on eBay a few weeks ago that had this leak being sold for spares or repair so it does happen.

New DMF and clutch fitted, new egr fitted, new turbo vac solenoid fitted - engine still judders on startup and when switched off, new engine mount fitted drivers side- other 2 mounts are fine- what on earth causes the engine to shake/shudder?

I am posting this information to help everyone who has a Mark2 C5. The hydraulic pipe which runs along underneath the car on the drivers side on right hand drive cars has what i would describe as a design flaw from the factory- if you have a look underneath any C5 at the rear where the pipe exits from underneath the cowling you will find that the cowling is actually touching the pipe or if not it is very close to touching it. To rectify this please cut away a piece of the cowling very easily using a stanley knife so that the pipe will be clear from any chaffing. I know this as i have just had to have my pipe repaired - it could have cost me £800 at Citroen or also same at independent repairers but i found a solution which is a great repair. Check your pipework now before its too late as this can lead to catastrophic suspension failure - oh yes i lost all 5.5 litres of fluid due to this!!! If anyone wants to know the easiest and cheapest solution to repairing the pipework at the rear of hydraulics if yours has already started leaking then i can tell you how to make a successful repair for the least cost which is safe and will pass mot inspection. Thank you for your attention Michael

Thanks for info Paul.

Well strangely after switching on the engine for the fourth time since the depollution fault showed - the fault and engine light have cleared. I think I'm going to have a word with my mechanic to see about the egr coding and see if any codes have been recorded on ECU.

Drove 65miles down motorway no problem, on return home after a 50mph speed limit due to roadworks pressed cruise control to accelerate to 70 and depollution fault came on display. I've tried driving in lower gear to get revs up to 4k for some distance still fault plus engine light on, I've disconnected battery for an hour fault comes on straight away so tried driving motorway speed in low gear still no effect. I only use premium fuel, car is extremely well looked after service wise. Only thing that's been changed recently is cambelt and water pump along with replacement Valeo EGR - old one was actually perfect except the fixing bolt s had worked loose so it was blowing slightly from the gasket - I'd bought the new one as egr valves usually don't last forever and i had been having a symptom which was pointing towards a faulty egr. I had new turbo and oil feed pipe fitted last year and looking at the oil feed pipe today it's covered in black soot along with the turbo casing too but the original never looked like this so i don't know if there is an exhaust leak from the turbo or if it's normal. If anyone has any ideas what's caused the depolution fault I'm all ears. Car drives but feels a little sluggish - it was sluggish after new cambelt but not all the time just odd days again don't know why.

Paul I was just wondering whether or not to change the chain since the cambelt is getting done. There is no unusual noises coming from the chain and the engine is actually quite quiet for one of these 1.6 engines. My reason for thinking of changing was because I had read on the internet that some chains had stretched or snapped with catastrophic results. I think I will check with Citroen to see whether the chain is recommended to be changed or not. I don't want to spend more than necessary to keep this car going as it has been eating a big hole in my pocket what with turbo charger, heater flaps,brake calliper,battery and starter motor, egr valve and tyres all in past 6 months!!

Thank you for the info, will have my mechanic check it out.

Any advice?

I'm going to have my cambelt changed and water pump. Will I need to change the timing chain which this engine has at the same time? One garage told me they only ever do the belt so I'm unsure what to do. Appreciate your advice in advance

No I hadn't - but both sets of tyres are very quiet anyway in fact get more wind noise than anything else- one area that has not been sealed correctly in the factory is the rear boot glass at the top corner of the hatch but come the summer I'm going to carefully remove it and glue it where it should be- I put some electrical tape in that area to seal it up and amazing the difference it made.

A month on and still no flickering headlights plus another bonus - no faults codes found on a random computer diagnostics check- this is a first for me with this car it has always had codes for this or that. I'm starting to really like this car the more I fix it- I think it had a hard life before I owned it and got just basic servicing- just need to change all discs and pads and egr valve and thermostat housing to make it perfect I think!It still drives and brakes but not as smooth as it could be.

I haven't done anything with heater resistor - but I have fitted a brand new slightly more amperage battery and heater has been fine. I had a computer hooked up to my car recently and no faults were found which is the first time in 3 years I have ever had no codes!!! So maybe anyone having faults show up should try a new slightly more powerful battery - my old battery was tested and I was told it was fine but clearly it wasn't.

I would say that there is a very slight increase in noise from the tyres but nothing like I remember from Michelin's I've had on cars before- the Michelin Cross Climate tyres are rated 1decibel louder than the Goodyear Efficient Grip that I had on. I also noted that the braking on the front of the car was much more solid with the Michelins - like I said I think the Goodyear's were soft tyres. I also can see as I have new Michelin tyres on the front and Goodyear's on the rear that the tyre sidewall is squashed on Goodyear's and more flat on the Michelin's so they are definitely a firmer tyre. Tyre fitters want me to return after 2000 miles for a free tracking check- got to say that the car feels almost like it's on rails now very very impressed and will definitely stick to Michelin's when I need new tyres for the rear- cost £70 more for a pair than the Goodyear's but money very well spent for sure in fact cannot recommend these new generation all weather Michelin's highly enough!

Just an update on my tyre wear. Had new Michelin all weather tyres fitted today and tracking adjusted. Tracking was miles out I was told! With the new Michelin's and corrected tracking I feel like I'm driving a new car- the roadholding is amazing for such a big heavy car and the steering is much more precise- the ride is a little firmer than it was with Goodyear Efficient Grip tyres but even the braking is more solid- I think the Goodyear's were too soft for this car. I'm so pleased I spent money on these fantastic tyres - I don't usually comment on tyres but the transformation is staggering!! 😀😀😀😀

Fitted new battery yesterday and haven't noticed any flickering/dimming of headlights this morning so hopefully that's one fault rectified. Thanks to all for advice.

Went back to garage that did wheel alignment - I asked the gentleman there if he did tracking by lining up front wheels with the back- he said yes. I then said well that explains why my tyres wear on the outside edge then he said he just put the figures into his machine and does what it tells him - he even said my tyres weren't too bad as they were evenly worn off and he's seen much worse - now I have no confidence in this garage so will take car somewhere else to get it checked/adjusted.

Great thanks I will find that.

Had battery checked today, results were: Voltage 12.59v Measured 576 SAE(A) Rating. 680 SAE(A) Cranking voltage 11.73v Charging No load 14.38v. Loaded 14.07v Was told battery is still good, am considering a new one though as it's 10 years old in January what do you think?

As per title my fan wasn't working - plugged in my mechanics Snap on code reader and found heater relay stuck open - reset code and heater fan now working. My question is where is the heater relay so I can replace it - all I can find on the internet is reference to heater resistor on earlier model C5?

Will do Paul thanks

Ok will do thanks

It's very noticeable on my car and passengers have noticed it too - one commented are your lights going to go off! I said no it does this all the time. I did read somewhere that someone else had this problem and they changed their alternator which fixed it, another person changed the battery which fixed it but then someone else changed battery and it made no difference. My battery is the original and as the car is 10 years old in February next year it has done well. I've had the car just over 3 years and the lights have always dimmed whilst driving along never when stationary with engine ticking over.