aspire_helen Posted December 4, 2014 Posted December 4, 2014 I thought i would research the options for cleaning a fap rather than replacement through a citroen dealer. It would be interesting to know who has tried which method and with what level of success. My preferred option at present would be to remove the dpf, spray in a suitable cleaning agent (but which?), washout with water, dry, refit.OPTIONS1. Dealer exchange. In my experience, you receive a cleaned filter, not a new one.2. Professional in situ clean, typically a 3stage process where 2 fluids are sprayed onto upstream face of the pdf, then a 3rd additive is added to the fuel and the engine run.eg Bardahl and Archoil systems.3. DIY in situ clean. Similar to option2 but comprising only one fluid being sprayed onto the dpf face. Eg Cartechnic, Wurth W906, NormfestDPF100, Millers. Typically, £35 to £50 per filter, though Millers is approx £100.4. Remove filter and wash through with high pressure water hose or pressure cleaner until output runs clear. Possible pre-treatment with cleaning agent used in option 2 or 3?.5. Add dpf cleaning agent to fuel. I have found 14 different brands of this on ebay, all suggesting regular usage to keep the dpf clean, or to clean sufficiently to remove a dpf blocked warning. STP, K2 turbo, Granville 10k boost, Wynns, Silver Hook, JLM, Forte, Archoil, Bardahl, Triple QX, Protec, Powermaxx, Cataclean, Mannol 9994. Typical prices are £5 to £20 to dose a tank of diesel. I cannot find any info on whether these are compatible with eolys dpx42 or indeed do the same job.6. Professional clean. Remove your own filter, post it off, get your own filter back cleaned within 48hrs. I was quoted this week £250+VAT inc courier both ways. Quote
madmadmax Posted December 5, 2014 Posted December 5, 2014 there is one option missing from what you have looked at and that is a high engine rpm run (12miles min) cleans the injectors, combustion chamber and turbo infact most things post engine and the back of the valves and its cheper than most of the other optins and works to Quote
aspire_helen Posted December 6, 2014 Author Posted December 6, 2014 Madmadmax, yes there is one option I missed out. Namely, blowing through with high pressure air. Youtube has 2 examples where the considerable amount of soot is seen being blown straight out. However, it may need a bit more than just poking the output from a compressor down the tube. Quote
MikeLane Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 there is one option missing from what you have looked at and that is a high engine rpm run (12miles min) cleans the injectors, combustion chamber and turbo infact most things post engine and the back of the valves and its cheper than most of the other optins and works toHi there, what do you mean by "High engine rpm"?My 2005 1.6 HDi has now done over 107K miles. I very seldom exceed 3000rpm and have never had a "Eolys low" warning or topped up the tank. I've had the occasional DPF blocking and/or Depollution warning which disappears with a bit of harder driving (for me!) or cruising at 70 for a few miles. (The only time it wouldn't go away was when the filler cap switch didn't work as a wire had burnt out!) I think it's an excellent car (and the ride's nearly as good as my CX Familiale!). Quote
madmadmax Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 (edited) High engine rpm, would be reving the engine under load and as close to the red line as you can, but stay with in speed limits Edited January 4, 2015 by madmadmax Quote
aspire_helen Posted January 6, 2015 Author Posted January 6, 2015 I should add another option - fitting a new pdf ! New ones are now down to circa £130. However, these are not the OE quality silicon carbide filters but the cheaper and less efficient "cordierite" cores. Nonetheless, Walkers, who make both types, recommend the cordierite for cars which are over 10 years or used primarily on motorway journeys. They recommend the more expensive OE quality for younger or sporty/powerful cars, or mainly urban driving and taxis. My car falls into the cordierite category so is a viable cost option if my original dpf blocks too bad for regeneration. See www.walker-eu.com for loads of useful info on dpfs and additives. One useful tip from them is that if you are worried about a reduction in power, it is unlikely to be the dpf unless accompanied by the appropriate system warnings. So i am in no rush to clean the dpf. Quote
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