C5 2002 Leak On Rear Suspension

[Guest Jimmy H]

I have a c5 2002, I noticed a oil type stain below the car on the road near the rear wheel. The car has just failed its mot on a leaking "something" to do with the hydrolics. My garage has told me the part is £590 + vat and Citroen will have to connect a computer to the car to make the two rear "somethings" talk to each other. The only part I can find on the tinternet in a 'accumulator sphere' at about £35.00.

 

Am I looking for the wrong thing or is my leg getting a good pulling!!

 

Thanks

 

Jimmy

[Guest mick m]

Jimmy I had the same problem. Fluid was sprayed intermitently around both wheels and pressure was lost overnight.

After much cleaning, test driving, pumping up the suspension etc I narrowed my leak down to a little aluminium block with three pipes connected to it at the centre, between the wheels.

I changed it at a cost of about £10 and voila, the leak stopped. The joints weren't leaking. I can only put it down to the aluminium somehow becoming pourous!

Mick.

[Guest Nikk]

I've just become a member of this car knowledge club but I've had a C5 2.0l HDi estate for about4/5years. Last year I had the same leaky problem with a loss of fluid. I took it to my Citroen dealer who charged me £300 for changing the pipes. Thing is Iv'e noticed it leaking again and after serveral checks I'm positive its coming from the aluminium block where the three pipes conect. I intend to replace this myself but lack don't know how or what to bleed once the new blocks been fitted. Can you supply any information?

NIk

[techbod]

the block is just a branch for the pipes to join up but each pipe has a rubber seal so when you remove the pipe you will see the seal on the end of the pipe and you can buy the seal new from Citroen ( obviously you know how to work with this system because of pressures involved ) Ive never seen the actual alloy block leak like that unless it was down to poor manufacture/excessive rotting of the alloy but I have seen the seals fail or the bolt come loose

[Guest Nikk]

[Thank you for that piece of information I'll probably try the rubber seals then - go for the cheapest option first. But this still doesn't answer my question as to how or what do I do to bleed this block (as there is a bleed nipple on it)

Nik

[techbod]

you bleed it as you would for changing a sphere and the whole system has to be depressurized

, put the rear end on axle stands at a height you can work then drop the suspension all the way down and open the bleed nut on the regulator, you only need to turn the bolt a 1/4 turn and don't remove all together otherwise you will drain all the fluid instead of the pressure

[kfk]

there isnt a bleed nut on a regulator to depressurise the system.....this vehicle is a C5 not a Xantia.

 

The C5 is depresurised using a diagnostic tool to open the valves within the BHI (pump assy) this in turn returns any fluid under pressure back to the reservoir.

 

Other methods that anyone recommends may cause you to get wet when you undo the pipe.

[techbod]

ill have to get me a C5 ;)

[techbod]

2.2. Without diagnostic equipment

URGENT : Any LDS fluid recovered must not be re-used .

N.B. : Collect the LDS fluid so as to keep the working area clean . respect the environment .

Start the engine .

Set the height control to the "LOW" position .

Stop the engine .

2.2.1. Vehicles with hydractive suspension 3

 

 

Front suspension : undo the detensioning screw (1) by one turn .

Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully .

 

 

Rear suspension : undo the detensioning screw (2) by one turn .

Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully .

2.2.2. Vehicles with hydractive suspension 3+

 

 

Front suspension : undo the detensioning screw (3) by one turn .

Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully .

 

 

Rear suspension : undo the detensioning screw (4) by one turn .

Wait for the pressure in the hydraulic circuit to fall fully .

[Guest Nikk]

Thanx Techbod and kfk for all your advice- but , and it pains me to say this, I just might be better off seeing my local Citroen dealer and getting them to re-new the seals or the aluminium block connector-especially if it requires a diagnostic tool. Just on another point - my rear brake calipers are starting to rub on the rear wheels (a common fault from what I've read). Could I at least attempt removing and cleaning them or is that too risky? Knowing my luck the bolts holding the calipers to the backplate would be solid and I'd end up using too much force and ....snap! another simple job turns into a disaster.

Nik

[techbod]

well nikk your showing signs of fear and you have both ways to release the pressure so the diagnostic tool isn't required but much easier if you have it,

first thing to consider is are the connections to the alloy block tight as the systems being hydraulic expand and retract so they might just need nipping up,

calipers hitting the wheels? or do you mean the discs have an edge on them and its touching the calipers in which case you could grind the edge off while discs are still on but you have to consider if the discs are too thing and need replacing and if so its the caliper carrier bolts you need to be worried about because you can live without the screws holding the discs because they are only there to keep the discs in place when replacing wheels and keep the holes lined up,

 

fear is the downfall and when that's set in let someone else do it ;)

[myglaren]

You can refurbish the rear calipers yourself BUT the bolts are very long and tight and have threadlock on the all the way. Also when the corrosion pushes the caliper away from the steel arm it is not pushed straight but at a slight angle which puts further stress on the bolts making them even more difficult to remove.

 

I had mine done a year ago and fortunately it was in its early stages and all came to pieces easily.

 

It can happen that the calipers be destroyed while removing them so it is a good thing to have quick access to some replacements.

They run at around £80 each.

 

If you do refurbish them, make a polythene gasket to introduce between the caliper and the steel arm to stop the EMF that causes the corrosion.

[Guest Nikk]

Thanks for the information - I've now done the brake calipers - and you were right loctite all the way! Got them off completely and chipped off the corrosion. Bolts took me the best part of a day - but a big hammer a punch and a reemer sorted it. The bolts now slid through easily. I'm going to use some copper grease before putting them back together- but I think I'll use the polythene gasket idea as well!

Nik