Well, I can't see how anyone with 'normal' forearms, hands, fingers and 'non' double joints can replace the drivers side dipped beam HiD! Perhaps a double jointed mechanic who's been on a starvation diet for a month or two. I did remove power the steering reservoir cover, and tried removing the reservoir itself to access the back of the light unit but gave up when releasing the 2 X 10mm nuts did little to free it from its resting place. So, as I also wanted to find the source of the leak on the washer reservoir, I removed the bumper Fairly straight forward as above, 11 fixings and the headlight washer covers removed, a gentle tub and "Robert's your fathers brother". For anyone else reading this, the fixings are: 1 in each wheel arch where the bumper meets the wing (about 1/2 way up), these just twist and pull out. 1 at the bottom of each wheel arch (under back edge of skirt) these screw out. 3 connectors under the front of the valance, twist and pull out. 4 Torx heads across the top of the radiator area - strangely 2 twist and pull out, the other 2 are threaded. It's also possible (well on mine it was) to get a finger nail behind the headlight washer covers and ease the buggers out to remove the covers, rather than subjecting yourself to the risk of splash back as a friend operates them remotely! 3 X 10mm bolts and 2 locating dowels to each headlight unit and the job of replacing any of the bulbs is a doddle! The only problem I had was removing the centre one of the 10mm bolts (top one) holding the light units in on both units. The spring nut, captive nut whatever it's called, had corroded badly, so I ended up using a junior hacksaw to remove the bolts and replaced them with new nut, bolt & washer combinations. Even though only 1 bulb had blown, because I'd ordered 6000K bulbs rather than the standard 4300K ones, I replaced both. I'm glad I did as there was a very noticeable difference between the two. The 6000K unit is brighter and whiter, making the 4300K look more like a halogen bulb, with an orangey hue. I didn't find it necessarily needed either wheel removing, but it was easier to have the front of the car jacked up, or at the very least, on it's highest (6mph max) suspension setting. As to the leak on the washer reservoir, I'm baffled as to it's origin, not where it is, but how it got there! Where the reservoir is moulded to create a handy recess to keep the pumps, there was a small indentation and hole on the corner of the moulding, but not on any edge where 'outside' objects could have caused it. Only a small hole, possibly 1-2mm at most, but a constant trickle of fluid came out of it when the res was topped up Friend of mine suggested it may have warn through with vibration of the pump both being operated and from the constant vibrations through the car whilst in motion. I can't see it myself, no signs of wear or friction between the 2 plastic surfaces. Assisted the fluid level in dropping by giving the screen a damn good wash, then dried out the hole and surrounding area. A small amount of good silicone sealer was forced into the hole and smoothed off around it, the pump replaced and then given a squirt of sealer to make sure it was held firmly in position. No, no leak! yippeeeee! :blink: I think I took a photo on my phone, will upload it later