ShetlandC1

Interesting thing....my C1 is coming up to it's 3rd birthday and tire road noise has stood out as a major discomfort (having driven big Audi's prior)... thinking to check my front dice pads for wear i noticed a lot of rust build up on the discs, attacking this with a small hammer and emery cloth back to shiny steel, suddenly the road noise is near zero......don't let this complaint creep up on you, check your discs for rust.

Has anyone fitted an alarm to their car? I have heard of someone that had their C1 rolled onto it's side by drunken yobs over the festive period. I'm thinking of fitting an alarm that has dual zone microwave perimeter protection. has anyone fitted such a system to a C1? Alarm Site The full alarm only goes off if the inner field is broken but i would like to know is if the inner field is turned to maximum it would reach outside the car?

Why do we love our wee Citybugs so much?? I feel for you thepange all will be well in the end....promise. Sal

A very good point....don't worry about mpg from your new showroom C1, you need to let the engine rev through it's full range as it warms up and never/ever labour the engine.. i would recommend changing the engine and gearbox oil plus filters well before the factory recommendation of 10K miles.

Debs as long as you parked your CityBug above the local water table it should not have leaked.... even if you were on holiday for a month, get back to that dealer and demand the problem is resolved....your door seals should not leak....door seals being the operative word.

Smaller engined cars can actually lose power when an induction kit instead of an airfilter is fitted. It can be challenging to deliver COLD air (which carries more oxygen) to the engine as the temperature under the bonnet can get quite high and and a 20 degree rise in temperature can rob you of up to 3% of your power! Under bonnet temperatures can quickly rise to double this. An intercooler can be added which is sprayed with Co2 and reduces the temperature of the air intake. It should be noted that in some small engine non turbo applications the car will feel less powerful with an induction kit - in these instances the best option is a direct replacement panel air filter which goes in the standard airbox. Sucking warm air in from the engine is a great way to lose power. Make sure you have a cold air feed pipe to get cool air from outside of the engine bay - cold air carries more oxygen. So the best air induction kits come with a cold air feed pipe and are fitted in an air box which shields the intake air from the high under bonnet temperatures – the best compromise between the standard air intake box and the induction kit. Some kits have a long pipe which the filter sits at the end nearest the bonnet which really does help cut down the noise and improves the intake temperature. Induction kits that protrude under the front bumper which claim to get more air forced in through the pressure built up on the front of the car as it cuts through air do not have significant power gains, other than the benefit of the cold air from outside the engine bay, - the RAM effect takes speeds of over 100 mph before a benefit is realised - they are however a great way to collect many botanical specimens of fly's, moths and bugs in the air filter! NB: Be careful where you site the cold air feed - the last thing you want is to be sucking water into the engine every time you splash through a puddle. If the induction kits air filter is enclosed in a box with a cold air feed, then more power can be obtained avoiding the hot under bonnet air (Carbon fibre boxes are very good for their heat shielding and durability). It's also a good idea to wrap the exhaust manifold with a heat resistant material to keep the under bonnet temperatures down and tasteful vents can be added to the bonnet to take away the heat. Induction kits sometimes come with a guarantee of "more power". In reality though, the power gains are so small, on small engined cars, they would not be noticable in real life. Secondly the power increase tends to be at the higher end of the rev range and your low down power band will suffer. So to summarise, if you have a large engined car (or an engine with good low to mid range torque) fit an induction kit with a cold air feed. If you have a small engined car or one with little power in the lower rev band fit a direct replacement sports panel air filter.

Hi REFZ, i would be interested to hear of any differences in performance... 1. Induction Kit without cool air feed. 2. Induction Kit with cool air feed. Over standard air filter system, Cheers.

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Why try and put outlandish speakers in a wee city bug ?..... They are a cracking wee motor and are not mobile/four wheeled bass bins....you should have purchased a second hand golf. .

I would suggest spraying the silencer/back box and all pipe work and clamps leading up to the stainless tail pipes in a matt black manifold paint....as they are they detract from the overall effect.

Take a look at this collection of rear pipes...........mine should arrive next week.. It's a Pug site but we are all the same under the skin...lol

Ecosse got back to me today with UK prices for Musketier Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems.... The Twin on 1 side is £412.50+Vat The single on either side is £500+Vat The twin on either side is £562.50+Vat I think if the prices quoted where inclusive of VAT it would have been more attractive, must think about this.....but dang they do look good. http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/3108/107muskrearer6.jpg

Ross i can assure you these are magic wee motors, you won't regret joining the club.

I feel these wee motors are the freshest cars to hit our roads since the majestic MINI..... i just love them, my son however thinks i have banged my head and need treatment... What is it about this wee car that has us all in a high gear ?

I have to admit that's a better rear end than my wifes.....lol