Stuart js

Check the BSI units (fuse box and relay to you and me -currently I am having electrical problems and........... I traced my fault down to the relay box(fusebox) under the bonnet - left hand side - anyway speaking with the mechanic at a Citroen dealership about my problem a what would be a quick fix -well they would not carryout quick fixes but just replace the use box if a fault was found. I asked how long it would take o get a replacement box and I was told they carry stock of both types for my year of car ('03) at £115 + vat, why would a dealer carry these in stock if it is not a common problem? Also looking on the web -someone will actually test a repair the inner fuse box - I believe they have small circuit boards and miniature relays attached. I wil not know for sure until I take mine apart and investigate. Please read below before replacing interior tray Note from Citroen repair system Interior fuse tray[/i] 1. Built-in systems interface (BSI) CAUTION : When replacing a built-in systems interface unit (BSI), the BSI must be initialised with a diagnostic tool (see the relevant operation) . The HF remote controls must be re-synchronised if they do not operate after initialising the BSI (see the relevant operation) . 1.1. Removing N.B. : The BSI is fitted on the left of the vehicle cabin (right hand drive and left hand drive) . Exterior fuse tray no special equipment required. CAUTION : Disconnect both battery terminals before removing the engine junction box so as to avoid any short circuit . Also these two sites may give further information - I have not dealt with either of these people and do not know how good a service you will get but the information may be usefull. http://www.autodiagnos.com/fileadmin/asset...si_complete.pdf http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?cont...control_failure

Thanks for that, have already taken off and washed out with th ehose pipe, the next job was the swirl chambers TUS

Hi all, I thought about a pin prick or some other damage, but I was trying to find out if it a common problem as I do not believe my car is unique. As to using a cleaning additive, as my car has a particulate filter it is strongly advised not to use any additives what so ever, therefore it will be a manual clean. thanks for you responses Stu

Hi there, I have a 2.2hdi auto and have spent today cleaning out the inlet manifold, WITH A LONG HANDLED TEA SPOON !! - I am now thinking of trying to clean the swirl chambers, as I also expect them to be full of diesel gunge, I would rather not take the top of the engine apart as this would disturb the camshafts and their bearings, so I am thinking of suction, has anyone tried or knows if it can be done? Also, is it normal for the bottom of the air cooler (outside) and it's pipe work to be covered in dirty engine oil? or are my Turbo seals starting to leak oil?, confused as it does not seem to be loosing oil between services!! Information would be appreciated. Confused but happy Stu

Hi all, Update to my problem, this may help someone else. Week ago I found the intermittent fault, no power going to the primary fuel pump, checked the fuse and this seemed ok, however, having owned an XM, I decided to spray clean the fuse box and connectors - I bought a service spray from Maplin Electronics - put it all back together seemed fine for a couple of days the the problem came back, so I went deeper, I then done the same thing to the ECU connectors and while I was at it decided to the do the Air flow-meter + air temperature sensor connector as well. Since then all has been fine - No problems. :lol: :D 15th November 2009 Seems I spoke to soon, it has let me down again twice now, all I do to start it again is lift the Relay/fuse box cover (back left hand side of engine bay), push the connector with the PINK wire going to it, then it starts Info - Spoke with man at Citroen dealership and he has heard of the boxes going faulty before - his garage actually has two in stock!! - I will investigate next weekend to see if thre is an obvious connection problem if not it will be a replacement box at £115 + vat - MMMM :(

Thanks you but....... Johndouglas - I do not know as I have not tried to listen to the pump in the tank, when it happens I am not in the position to listen as the next time I try to start it does coastline taxis - No smoke and starts up normally with out any misfiring or spluttering Me - It is as if the immobiliser is still being activated. but how do I check? Just a note - I had a run o 100 miles the weekend average of 65 mph fuel at 49 mpg - still running sweet. Thanks all Stu

Nope, everything works, spins over like no tomorrow but just won't fire, which being a diesel is a bit weird! Stu

Hi Can anyone throw any light on this one. My car is a 2003, 2.2HDi auto, 139,00 miles Eloy filled up twice so far, about 10-15,00 before next. Original Particulate filter. My problem is:- I fitted, about 18 months, ago one of these devices that plays around with the fuel pressure in the injector rail, without any problems, fuel consumption went from 43(max) at 70 mph to 52(max) at 80 mph, in town was better than before as well. Then recently it refuses to start, turn the key - nothing - turn off - wait 10 seconds - try again and we are back to normal as if nothing happened, does this cold & hot, maybe once or twice a week. I thought the fuel device was playing up so I took it off, wah-hay, service lights, anti-pollution fault, get home mode the works, so I reconnected the device, drove better but still had all the lights up, I then filled it up with diesel, as I know removing and refitting the filler gap squirts some Eloy into the tank & resets the anti-pollution system, car now drives and behaves as before BUT very occasionally it won't start. When I use the on board diagnostic (Colour LCD) no faults shown. Can't complain, good millage and still with the original Particulate filter. MMM

Hi Not sure about the suspension ECU but I have read somewhere that if you replace or disconnect the Engine ECU it will need to be 'taught' what to do, as it will go back to basic factory settings and will take a while to settle down after this, remembering this, one of the things that the C5 does is match the suspension to the driving style. just a thought! STU

Can get close, 2.2 hdi, auto, 125,000, on a 150 mile run, display showed 50.5 mpg I was on cruise control at 65 mph........... Stu I have a plug in tuning chip., which gives me about 7 mpg extra urban and motorway.

Thanks for that, just phoned and they sell new ones only, I am just investigating at the moment, before it happens, 122,000 on same filter is doing well but one day it will go and I will need to act fast. All brakes are OK, even the back ones, overhauled completely about a year ago, but thanks for the tips, I have always kept an eye on consumption figures (on every car/bike I have owned) and when things start to change it seems to be a good indicator of something not quite right. Last year going up the M6 at about 60, I was getting 60mpg in my C5, hour later, after a rest it went into limp home mode, left it overnight and it sorted itself out, took it to the Dealership and spent £49 to tell me nothing was wrong!!!

Nodding C5, mine done it twice, once, when it was parked on a slope, steering on full right hand lock and stopped without rest. - My wife pulled into a car park, and parked my C5 without letting it all relax before applying the handbrake and putting it in park. I know this as I moved the car from this position, the second time was soon after to see if I was right, and I was. Try straightening the steering a little., it is just the front height corrector getting confused I think! stu

I know, this seems to be a common topic but....... :D .. My car is a '03, 2.2 hdi, automatic, saloon, 122,000 miles. I have owned the car since 88,000 miles, an managed to get full history from garage that looked after it. I have had Eloy fluid topped up once since ownership. original particulate filter still in place. Now the questions 1, has any one had their filter cleaned, if so how? I am thinking of bi-carb soda(like we did with our mopeds), and high pressure/ tempreture steam will it work. 1a, if not who sells the Citroen refurbished ones? 2, How do I know if my ECU will reset after cleaning? or when it has displayed the blocked filter message? 3, Government figures for the C02(G/km) figures, mine has 186. Do all 2.2 Hdi's have particulate filters, if yours doesn't what figure do you have on your log book? 4, Does anyone know how to force a filter regeneration? These questions are being asked as I think it will be going wrong soon, as my motorway fuel (cruise control at 70mph) consumption has gone down from 45mpg to 40, not a lot I know but............... Stu

Hi all, I drive my 2.2hdi '03 auto, lightly, I get on a run, 125 miles straight off, full tank, according to the trip computer, 44-46 mpg at just under 70 mph, but if I do the same journey at 75-80 mph then it drops to 39-42 mpg. I think this is good for a car that is not exactly a lightweight. However, if you drive in town it does drop to mid the twenties. To put it into context, I have friends who drive smaller cars and not many can beat 45 mpg. TTFN Stu. Question, what is a DPF filter? .

Dealer only I believe........ I bought another key fob from Ebay and went about getting it reprogrammed and a new Key.......... Dealer says that they are the only ones that can reprogram fobs, IF, I have the security card that was supplied with the car, which I do not, if not they have to request it from Citroen UK, at another cost, then to get a new key cut it would be more, If I remember about £100 in all!!! needless to say I still have only one key fob. hope it helps Stu

yes but............ the car should actually keep the particulate filter clean, the owners manual actually says if the error message and emission light appears, drive the car above 40 mph until the light and message goes off. My filter is 109,000 old (the original) fluid was topped up at 50,000and again at 100,00 I expect that the filter should get to 150,00 then need a 'wash' or replacing, non Citroen about £250. I think they go wrong if the cars are low mileage or town cars, I bought mine with 92,000, 18 months old - very high mileage. Stu

Hi, before you get your hope up no I do not have the codes you require. Not sure which type of onboard computer display you have on your car but I have the colour screen version. If I access the 'computer screen' I have an option of onboard diagnostics, my car has to stationary with the handbrake on and out of gear. It actually gives descriptions not codes. I found this after I had bought an OBD connector and software only to find out mine is the wrong end of 2004 However, I too would appriciate the ifo if anyone as it TTFN Stu

Shame you went back to Toyotas but hey if we were all the same we would be driving Ford model T's!!!! any way to other readers, I had this problem about the additive warning not going off, took it back to the dealer and they found the Eloy filler cap was not seated properly and the fluid had drained away - so message is check the cap, just iin front of the left hand rear wheel underneath. Oh buy the way, I tried a Toyota Avensis for a month and found the ride to jiggly and firm ..... first car that was not a citroen for about 15 years. Stu

Hi there, sorry to say it may be alittle expensive this one........... Fuel additive / fuel additive system malfunction is proberbly that fact that your eloy fluid is empty, this stuff is about £50 to buy plus labour charge to fill - this is a special oil that the computer system adds to the car at controlled intervals to reduce emissions (Fords and Peugeots have the same). This oil should be topped up at about every 50,000 miles. If you are unlucky the particulate filter may need replacing, but then again it may not. Not sure but Turbo sensor boost, and the recirculation faults may be linked. The errors shows were: As for the other faults I am sure someone out there may be able to help. good luck Stu. Antipollution fault, diesel additive minimum. = very important, expensive if not fixed soon. ASP/ESR fault could be worn brake pads / discs

Hi all, this seems to be a problem, I had to replace rear discs on my 2.2hdi last year, and just a a matter of course I coated the aliminium faces with a fine smear of blue hylomer (non setting instant gasket) wont know until the next time but it shold be OK, as my other form of transport is a motorcycle, being extra careful in respect to dissimular metal corrosion is natural. As for get the bolts out, my tip is loads of tea!!! - undo each bolt a little at a time, spaying penetrant as you go, then when it get very tight, spray a little more and have a cuppa! or 2 or 3..... works fine. good tip with the pad bolt, as if it falls apart bleeding the brakes would be required!! stu

Hi, 2.2 HDi auto (108000 2003), 2 miles (ish) before warm air from vent, dont look at the gauge, who cares as long as I am warm!! but I also drive a 23 year old Toyota and it takes just as long. Stu

Hi all I have owned over the years, GSA's(2), CX's(3), BX, XM, Xantia and now own a C5 (2.2HDi auto 2003, 108,00 miles and 45 mpg on a run at 60 mph average). I have always worked on my own cars,I am not mechanic, just someone who is will to learn. I have replaced the spheres on the CX, XM and Xantia so I have a little experience. Please read below somethng I have translated (Using an on-line translating site) from a french Revue Technique workshop manual (ISBN-10: 2726865410 or ISBN-13: 978-2726865415), I hope I have not compromised any copyrights - I would like to think that some of you may buy one yourself. As for the spheres just unscrewing, you will need a very good chain wrench and alot of patience, they dont 'JUST' unscrew, they are usually very very tight. Be very carefull you could do damage to pipe connections if you are too agressive. As for tyres, I run the cheap option at the moment and suffer from side wall instability and have been old this will stop or really reduce with Michelans so the next will be Michelans especially on the front. My C5 is a good ride, not a soft as a recharged CX or XM but about the same as a recharge Xantia, I will be replacing my spheres this year and am expecting to notice a difference. Enjoy your Citroens and travel in Comfort. Stu :blink: Now as promised.......... Release the pressure of the hydraulic circuit Note; with the suspension hydractive 3 +, the relaxation screw is located on the stiffness regulaters. on the suspemsion hydractive 3 it is situated on a hydraulic raccord between the suspension element left and right, to the before and to the defers vehicle. Start the engine Place the height controller into the low position. Stop the engine FRONT - Unscrew the relaxation screw (1) of a turn and wait until the complete pressure drops in the suspension hydraulic circuit before (to see figures) REAR - Unscrew the relaxation screw (3) of a turn and wait until the fall is complete pressure in the hydraulic circuit of the rear suspension. Drain, fill and purge hydraulic circuit. Notes: the liquid reservoir LDS is pressurized. The liquid LDS never must be reused. To drain - Start up the motor. Put the vehicle in low position. After having to stop the motor, get up and wedge the vehicle wheels hanging. Open the cork of the liquid reservoir LDS. Remove the upright front wheel. Remove embellish it mud before upright Release the hose of the reservoir that is located in the wheel arch and recover the liquid. Rest the hose and his necklace when the reservoir is empty. Refit the splashguard and the refit the wheel. Refill and purge Notes: the check of the liquid level LDS is done with the véhicle in low position. Put the vehicle on its wheels. To Fill the liquid reservoir LDS to the indicator "MAX" Apply a pressure of 0.5 bars in the liquid reservoir LDS Start up the motor. Wait until vehicle stabilizes. Put the vehicle in high position. Put the vehicle in low Turn the steering back and forth, lock to lock. Turn off the engine Check the liquid level LDS. If the level is below the mini mark (to see figures), it is necessary to add 1 litre of liquid LDS the maximum level of the LDS liquid, for the suspension, for Hydractive 3 ist the mark "BASES" and the maximum level of the LDS for the suspension Hydractive 3 + is marks "HYD" To Measure the control heights. Place the vehicle on a bridge 4 columns Place the vehicle in normal position Release the parking brake and start the engine to raise the vehicle. to this that the weight becomes too important and to relax it. Leave the vehicle to stabilize itself Check the distance between the ground and the bercaeu to the back of the fixing brackets before of suspension triangle to the zone 1 for the before. To the back, between the ground and the crossing to the zone 2 (to see figures) To Lower the vehicle to the hand, to maintain it an instant then the reàcher. Let the vehicle stabilizes itself and measure again the hauter. do the moyanne of the two values hope this help someone. :lol: