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Hi Mechuccio, Thanks for that link. It all seems relatively easy to do, good clear pictures. If it stops raining for a few days I'll get on with it. The spanner you showed is called a box spanner. A pipe wrench is used by plumbers. Best regards

The main problem is how to remove the bearings and races from the arm. Can it be done with just a hammer and drivers?

I was going to ask the same question. The bearings on mine are broken too but I get a nasty metallic clunk when going over bumps etc. Some years ago when I first bought my car the bearings were gone on both sides and I bought a complete axle at the scrapyard and changed both arms. I expect you could make the required pullers with threaded rod and metal plates but you will have to get the suspension arm off and on a bench to look at it. It would be a lot cheaper to take the arm to a Citroen garage than to take the whole car. The full bearing kits cost £28 on ebay. There are people who have done it themselves. If you do it yourself I would appreciate hearing your advice.

Thanks for the input. The MOT found 3 hoses needed replacing and the handbrake was not releasing fully. Hoses cost about £7 each. I replaced one cylinder some time ago, these cost £14, new shoes and pads all round £25. Cable, if needed, £9. They wanted to change the hubs (£50 each at German/Swedish) because they 'were getting near to their limit'. Apparantly they have a guarantee for life on these parts, OK if you have a new car but useless for an older model. We have decided that I will buy her another £300 car and bring the AX back to Wales and I will do the work here. Are people so well off nowadays that they pay these silly prices?

My daughter took her car to Quickfit for MOT and it failed on brake hoses which needed replacement and she was quoted £200. She then took it for a 'free' brake inspection and this then went up to £700, new shoes hub etc. Somebody is taking the mick as the cost of the parts is less than 10% of the quotes. As she now lives 300 miles away I can't do much and she is not capable of doing these things herself. I only paid £250 for the car. She lives near Gravesend. Any ideas pleeeze.

Can't see it being pulley as the clunk occurs on gear change only. Presume it also occurs when you first move off. Almost certainly engine mountings. Get a big bar and lever the engine around.

Fault discovered. Torn diaphragm in filter housing. None in scrapyard so £34 ouch!

Found fault. Torn diaphragm in filter pump.

Thanks for the quick reply. I tend to agree with you so I will try again and use PTFE on the unions.

Thanks for the quick reply. I took the car out last night and it kept cutting out so it must be sucking in air. The pump and filter are Bosch. The filter is inside the canister which has internal rubber seals and a seal to the filter holder top. The bleed plunger does not seem to be building up any pressure so I will look there for the leak. The manual does not say that any bleed screws need to be opened so the pump must be self bleeding.

My diesel engine, non turbo has always started immediately even in the coldest weather. I just changed the fuel filter, bled the system as per handbook now the engine still goes fine but it takes lots of battery to get it started. Can imagine problems in the winter. Could it be an air lock or something? Anybody?

After changing my fuel filter I now find that the engine has to turn over dozens of times before it fires. Previously it just fired immediately. Any ideas?