solo1874

Hi, finally after 7 months I've finally fixed the engine management light comming on, idle senser failures, the two lamda senser failures, headlights coming on by themselves, CAT damaged by above so new exhaust system, sidelight and headlight bulbs and the money pouring out of my wallet etc I've part exchanged it for a Nissan! A whole week of no car problems... such bliss! Still keeping my Berlingo though but won't need to frequent this forum so much. Nice to meet you and though I think the xsara is a wonderful ride, drive and comfort car the electronics and sensors are just to unreliable for me. Such a shame!

Hi Heater on full speed, may be the transistors on the motor, sorry to say I've come across this and so have many people with xsara's, Berlingos and C3 I've also seen reported. I have an easy guide to doing it on the mark 1 xsara and presumably this can also relate to the rest as it seems to be common. solo1874@hotmail.com Cheers John

As Phaeton said quite straight forward apart from the nuts rusting and the allen screw to hold the link rounding off. I used a hacksaw on one side, the other was a different story and flew apart. I purchased clones on ebay which work fine and they have a hexagonal rather than the allen screw that does the job. Its really nice when quietness is restored again. Good luck John

Hi, My sons did the same thing, we could get it to start and tickover but anymore it was hopeless. So on tickover and pushing / running we got it back to his house from where it was collected and main dealer replaced coil pack and all is still well. About 3 years ago that was. Good luck John

I've just done one on my Sons X reg xsara, (29th March 09) and if you need any instruction just send me an email at solo1874@hotmail.com Regards John

Hi all Anty one had any dealings with the electric headight adjusters? I was checking lights this morning and noticed the OS headlight was making a curious noise. I tried lowering the lights and raising them again and found the noise returned, I had a quick poke about, involving a bit of pushing and the noise has now gone. Of course I'm expecting it to return so was trying tp#o pre-arm myself. I'm assuming the light can't fine the desired position to settle at and wondering if anyone else can shed any light on the proble m and how to get to the motor unit. Thanks John

Rather than promote sellers as this isn't an advertising site if you email me at solo1874@hotmail.com I'll let you have the details. Cheers John

Sorry about delay, just read your post, will do tonight MONDAY 15th

Well by the Haynes manual With Manual windows pull of the winder handle With a small screw driver carefully prise off the base of the door pull handle trim, lift it from the upper lug and then undo the two revealed screws Carefully prise up the Interior door handle surround and disengage it from the handle Remove loud speaker Using suitable forked tool work around the edge of trim to release the securing clips, pull the panel outwards and lift it up to remove the trim. Refitting: Check and replace any broken clips and refitting is a reverse of removal. Cheers John

I'll see what my Haynes manual says when I get home tonight. John

Hi Guys Well a bit of sunshine today Sunday, stabiliser links driving me mad and I set to work. All the parts arrived ok and cost including the Torx sockets, stabiliser links and discs/pads (Mintex) etc came to £75. It was £200 two years ago for discs and pads at the main dealer and so was a minor service. The minor service of two weeks ago was £250 so I was expecting the same for discs and pads this time hence the reason for DIY. Now I'm almost 56 and not the fittest but had wrapped it all up in 2 hours. The torx socket that is required to undo the Bosch calipers is a T55 (my original posting) and also the two torx screws that hold the disk to the hub are T30. That was the only special tools needed the rest being achieved by normal Metric sockets. A couple of extra items that may not be in your tool box are Copper Grease (copper slip its sometimes called), this can be applied to the anti-squel locating shims that retain the disc pads, caliper piston external edge, its a non-grease lubriacant. Loctite is needed on the T55 torx bolts to ensure they don't vibrate loose as they don't use lock washers and also on the lower bolt on the caliper that removal allows the replacement of the pads. This bolt MUST be replaced for new each time it is removed with loctite. A gentle local drive round (to Tesco) and all is well and that god awfull rattling from the stabiliser links is gone! Thats it, france in 5 weeks for three weeks then chop the Berlingo in for something else. Anyone want any info on the parts I used etc feel free to ask, you can always post here and I'll reply. Cheers John

You don't actually say if its Diesel or Petrol, that would help but if its a petrol and then my sons zsara displayed the same symptoms and was a coil pack causing the problem. The breakdown chappie looked at it (he was only a recovery man) but without prompting "Its the coil pack breaking down"! I think you need to post if Diesel or Petrol but if petrol then thats my guess. The oil light is loss of pressure as the engine splutters to a stop but thats my guess. Good lick John

Just as an update, I've ordered disks and pads, new bolts etc and a set of Tork sockets so I'll let you know. I'm also changing the anti-roll bar stabiliser links at the same time as they are starting to knock. I'm always amazed the Citroen dealer I go to never mentions them, they frive me mad! Cheers John