Mike M.

Update as promised. So far I've only gone as far as unplugging, cleaning and replugging any connection I can find that looks like a sensor connection. The reason I've not investigated further is because the car has now, since the fault occurred, been driven over 700 miles at both town and motorway speeds without any further problems. I purchased a fault code reader (Thanks Paul) and a check yesterday showed no faults recorded. In case it does happen again I'll keep a record of the advice in this thread for future use. Just a final note - I've had this car for about 7 years and found it a generally reliable and versatile motor (sliding doors, removable seats, high headroom etc.) but it does seem to have a few random electrical quirks from time to time. The abs failure light has come on twice, but has gone out after a few minutes or so, the electric windows sometimes refuse to go from open to fully closed in one fluid motion now and again and need "stabs" at the button to get them shut, and now this latest engine management fault has shown up. All part of the joys of motoring I guess!!! Mike M.

Thanks again Paul. No cruise control on this car so I'll check over the brake pedal switch/wiring as you suggest. (That fault was generated a good few months ago and has never recurred since.) As for the other two, as far as I can find out they usually seem to happen together, but the exact cause seems to be unclear. I'll do the checks you suggest however and see what happens. First problem is relatively minor - don't know where my radio code is recorded!! Also, I'll get my own reader as you advise. I'll keep this thread updated.

Hi again Paul, Local garage results are P0571, P1160, and P1161............P0571 is listed as Brake switch "A" circuit, but the other two seem to be open to debate about what they mean exactly. I've searched several sites and the clearest description I can come up with is P1160 Intake manifold, and P1161 Throttle motor position. Re. your advice about a scanner, the Foxwell NT200 is in stock at £38.95, but they also have a Foxwell NT301 at the discounted price of £55.00. Would it be worth me paying the extra £16 or so for the extra features?

Thanks to both for your help. I've used the car again today and all is still well. I've arranged to have a scan done at my local garage for £18 (Citroen dealer wanted £78 to do it) but I don't expect it to show much, I've had a look at the Gendan fault reader mentioned by Paul and agree buying one would be a good idea, and probably will do so, but in this case I also tend to agree with Simple that there's a good chance that it could also be an intermittent fault with a relatively simple solution. The reason I say that is because the road I was driving along at the time the event occurred did have some rather vicious speed humps so the loose connector theory could be the first avenue of exploration. I need to do a little more research into fault readers though - I presume that if a fault occurs then clears as this one has done then a fault reader wouldn't be able to detect it - or am I wrong?

Hi, Thanks for that, I did access the fault record using the menu system but all it said was "Engine management system fault" I don't know any other way of finding the fault code. Regards, Mike M.

2006 petrol C8, driving at 30mph when the engine management fault light came on. No indication as to what the fault might be, but the car immediately slowed to approx 5mph and continued at that speed "kangarooing" as if I was a brand new learner driver. Got it to a car park, turned the engine off, waited a few minutes, turned it back on and the fault light lit up and the revs would not go above 1500rpm. Left it for 30 minutes or so, started it again and all was normal. Drove it home (8 miles or so) with no problems whatsoever. Used the car the following day also without problem. My worry is - now that the "apparent" fault has not recurred yet, what a problem I will have if it does happen again on a busy carriageway. Anyone have any clues what the fault might actually be?...or has anyone experienced anything similar?...any information would be much appreciated !!!!!! Mike M.

Hi, It was a while ago now but as far as I can remember the strips are held by several clamps along their length, and prevented from sliding by small plastic clips near to the front end of each strip. If you prise the front end of the strip from under the windscreen surround you may be able to see this clip - usually red in colour - but they are difficult to get the rubber strip away from them - I ended up destroying mine. If you intend to fit roof rails as I did new clips come with them. Once the rubber is free from the clip it can be slid out of the clamps and removed. A LOT of force may be needed to encourage the rubbers to slide the length of the car!!! Good luck!!!

In the near future I hope to fit roof bars to my 56 reg C8 LX. The first thing I need to know therefore is what is hidden under the rubber or plastic strips running along each edge of the roof. I've tried prising at the rear end of the strips but they seem firmly fixed in place. I need to know how to look underneath at least one of them without damaging it because I want to replace it whilst roofbars etc are purchased. Hope someone knows!! and apologies for a rather basic question!! Mike M.

On this subject, I also have been thinking about fitting roof bars (or spoiler?) to my 2006 C8 LX, but the more I look into it the more confused I become and so would really welcome some clear advice. Firstly, is there a choice of roofbars or a spoiler, or is what I think is a spoiler actually two roofbars fitted together? Secondly, there is mention of a T track. Do all C8's have this fitted under the long rubber strips or do I need to buy and retro fit? I have tried to look under the rubber strip but it is a tight fit and I'm reluctant to use much force in case I can't get it back into place. Thanks. Mike M.

Update:- Nothing's changed since my last post. Done all the checks that have been suggested, Been to three local repair garages, including the Citroen dealership (who were most helpful as usual by wanting £35 up front before even listening to my problem), but without any success. The "squeal"still starts as soon as the engine reaches normal operating temperature and is on tickover, and only disappears when either the engine revs are increased slightly or the engine oil dipstick/filler cap is cracked open. Things are getting a little past merely annoying now because the time has come to change vehicles so I really need to get rid of this noise once and for all - would YOU buy a used car making this strange noise?......Any advice no matter how far fetched would be much appreciated!!!! Thanks, Mike M.

It's been a long time I know, but suggestions so far have not solved or identified this VERY annoying problem. However, purely as a result of ONE comment on a general motoring problem forum I have discovered that if I slightly lift the oil dipstick, or crack open the engine oil filler cap whilst the squeal is audible it immediately stops and only recommences when the dipstick is replaced or the filler cap tightened. As a result of that I'm now thinking that the noise is somehow related to the engine breather system. Does that give anyone food for thought??

Thanks Paul, but I think I've covered all those - depressing the clutch and loading the alternator make no difference to the noise, and if it was due to a fault in the water pump/alternator/air con comp I would expect the squeal to be present all the time. As I said, the noise is only audible when the engine is at normal operating temperature and at tick-over revs. That's the most puzzling bit - why only under those circumstances?

My 2006 petrol C8 has done only 23000 miles, but has recently developed a very annoying squealing noise. The noise only occurs when the engine is at normal operating temperature and is ticking over. On start up the noise is not able to be heard, and does not appear during the warm-up period. Once normal engine temperature is achieved I can hear it, but only on tick-over - raising the engine revs only slightly is enough to make the noise disappear. Any ideas would be much appreciated please - it's driving me to drink!!!

Hi Lloyd, Update is that I've had to partially destroy the lower end of the cable to get the wheel released, but the mechanism is still jammed. I haven't had time to explore further yet but am assuming that a replacement unit is the only way ahead. I'm certainly interested in the one you have for sale therefore, so please could you email a pic, condition, and price to me at mikemaddox@lineone.net and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. They do seem very hard to find, but as yet I haven't checked what Citroen want for this item. Thanks, Mike M.

Hello Stephen, Thanks for your reply, my C8 is a 2006 model and does have the plastic fitting. My problem though is slightly different to yours. I removed the spare wheel a couple of months ago to check the tyre pressure, and both lowering and hoisting it back up went quite easily and completely normally. Recently when trying to lower it again it only came down 10mm and would lower no further, although the wheel itself was free to rotate and rock. I can't either feel or even see above it to investigate the hoisting mechanism, so I think the only option open to me now is to destroy the piece of channel which takes the weight of the wheel and drop it out that way. Thanks for the tip about replacing the mechanism being easy - although I shudder to think what a new assembly will cost!!!....My local Citroen dealer wanted £35 just to look at the problem. Needless to say I declined!! Mike M.