DocBrown

Yes, I did change the spheres with suspension on lowest setting as I once witnessed a mechanic undo a sphere when it was pressurised. I disagree about the Xantia not having the fabled magic carpet ride. I recently drove a colleagues M reg 1.9 TD and the ride quality was amazing. After that I realised my 1997 1.9 TD has 'issues' I realise it won't match the ride quality of a DS or CX but this friends Xantia was almost as good and lightyears ahead of my car. I will try another dose of raising and lowering plus I will bleed the rear brakes again as these are linked to rear suspension. I will let you know the results. Cheers Doc

Thanks for replying. I have used the bleed screw on the regulator but thought that it only released the hydraulic pressure to enable sphere removal. Come to mention it, when I last depressurised the system to swap rear spheres, I didn't hear whistling sound or air but the LHM pressure was released. Maybe it needs a dose of hydraflush just in case the ball bearing under the bleed screw is stuck? Anyway, I will go and carry out some citroen aerobics and hopefully get back the 'magic carpet' ride. Cheers Andrew

What is the correct procedure for purging trapped air from a Xantia's hydropneumatic system? My 1997 1.9 TD SX is in good condition and has new spheres front and rear, new droplinks, rod ends and balljoints but the car 'shrugs' or wallows from side to side when going over small road bumps/irregularities etc. I have been advised on this forum that there may be trapped air in the system although I did bleed the brakes after sphere replacement just in case. Is there a better way of purging trapped air as currently, the ride quality is no better than a conventionally sprung car in fact my brothers 406 estate drives a lot smoother as well. Any advice please would be great thanks. :unsure:

Recently I noticed the car tramlining badly on uneven roads and it seemed to want to wander slightly even on flat roads. Time to change the bushes. I managed to get the front drivers side suspension arm off the car, (a good tip is to disengage BOTH anti-rollbar droplinks to give more movement to enable the arm to be manipulated from the subframe etc), but then realised the normal methods of removing bushes using threaded rod, spacers and thick washers wasn't going to work. No matter what socket combination I used, the angle of the front bush in relation to the angle of the arm meant I couldn't press it out. The rear arm bush is also slightly unusual in that it is pressed around the 'spindle' end of the arm (trailing end) instead of pressed inside like the front bush. It seemed to be the rear bush that is causing all the problems as due to its design, there's a lot of twisting of the rubber which means ultimately the rubber pulls away from the metal 'cage' with the result of weird self steering effect and worn tyres. Has anyone on this forum managed to find a bush removal tool that fits the angled front bush or managed to cobble together something that works? Any advice please as I don't want to have to buy complete arms as I've already bought a bush set and the arms being forged steel have nothing wrong with them - apart from these pesky bushes. :unsure:

Any decent car tool retailer should have these sockets in stock. I got mine from Sealey/www.just off base tools.co.uk, but Laser Tools via www.toolbay.co.uk also sell them. I've changed a few of these on Xantias and XM's so just make sure the car is well supported on axle stands as you will need a long breaker bar or a length of thick-walled steel pipe to get these balljoints unscrewed - especially if they've been on for a few years. They should be torqued up according to manufacturers setting so it helps to own or hire a decent torque wrench. Whatever, you will get a upper body workout while changing these balljoints. I paid around £10 for the socket but that was a few years ago. It's worth buying one as it will be cheaper than getting a garage to fit the balljoints.

Looks like you've lost or broken the little plastic ball joint link which should be attached to the antirollbar/height corrector unit and the anti-rollbar itself. If this cheap plastic rod is missing (usually snaps of falls off) it means the only way to get the front to raise is to select the height selector lever which then means a hard ride. Technically the car shouldn't be driven at the high settings as these are for driving over obstacles or deep puddles/flood etc. The highest setting is for workshop/changing a wheel/checking LHM level. These small plastic rods are cheap to buy and should be in stock at Citroen dealers etc. While you're there, buy two as there's one on the back end which again, often snaps off. To replace, jack up car and support on axle stands. DO NOT attempt to get under car on just a jack especially as the suspension can sink without warning.

Hi, welcome to the world of the pull type clutch. On this type of clutch, the release bearing is fixed to the clutch pressure plate. The forks on the gearbox slot behind the release bearing at an angle just as the gearbox is positioned and bolted up to engine. To remove gearbox, first buy a Haynes manual if you haven't already got one - even if you have changed clutches on other cars, trust me, the Xantia is a lot more involved. You have to strip off the battery tray and a ton of other stuff just to see the gearbox. The most important tip is to spray release agent such as Plusgas on the small securing pin which holds the clutch cable release lever to the clutch lever shaft. Please note that if you can't shift this pin, you can't move the lever to the correct angle to enable the release bearing forks to slide out. It's this metal pin that has completely seized solid on my gearbox even after applying heat, plumbers freeze, hot oil, Plusgas etc. I have had to delay removing gearbox because of this securing pin. Just make sure your releases otherwise it means destructive methods such as grinding away the clutch cable lever and hoping there's enough movement to get the right angle to disengage release bearing. The above problems is the main reason so many Xantia's end up being sold off cheap on online auctions or simply being scrapped. I'm going to remove the entire engine and 'box as I've also got a new turbo to fit plus several awkward oil leaks to get to. It also means I can get various stud extractors or even weld a bolt to the end of the stuck pin to try and shift it. Good luck

Hi, I've noticed as well as a quite unsettled ride on uneven roads, the car - for want of a better word - almost feels like it's shrugging its shoulders when it hits bumps, ridges or slightly wavy road surfaces. The self levelling still works and there's no pitching, but it waddles. Sounds weird but it's the only way I can describe the ride quality. The self levelling abilities still impress but I'm wondering if this same self levelling control works laterally or across the car as well as front and rear axles? I have checked for excess movement in main ball joints, steering rack mounts and inner and outer joints, droplinks and lower arm bushes but everything is as per factory settings. The only downside is slight leak or misting from front struts which was picked up on last mot as an advisory. Certainly not looking forward to buying new struts as they are nearly £200 a side from GSF! The car always rises and sinks when commanded on the height selector but I cannot work out why the car rocks so much on bumps. It also tramlines badly on wear ridges especially on the A14 and M11 but tyre pressures and condition is okay. I'm pretty sure these symptoms are not simply a quirk of hydro suspension and it ruins what is otherwise a great car. :( Doc

A few years ago while waiting for tyres to be fitted in a 'Fast Fit centre' I witnessed a 'mechanic' trying to remove a front sphere without depressurizing the system first. (Obviously never worked on a Citroen). The look of utter shock and surprise on the bloke's face as he stepped backwards from under the bonnet covered in LHM looking like a Doctor Who monster will stay with me for ever. Hilarious but a real contender for the Darwin Award. Luckily no one was injured but it's quite impressive just how far and how much surface area pressurised LHM will cover.

Thanks for replying but please note - I placed the car on axle stands BEFORE cracking off the rear spheres just enough to break the sticking ability of dirt and corrosion that builds up between original or old spheres and suspension strut body. Without the system pressure to effectively keep the car's weight on the strut, if any attempt is made to remove the sphere when system is depressurised, the strut is 'loose' and tries to turn with the sphere and twists or fractures the metal pipes. I've seen a few ham fisted attempts where people have done just that and twisted or ruptured the metal pipes. The rear spheres can be safely 'cracked off' and by that I mean a few degrees of rotation only just to be in with a chance of removing them ONLY after system is depressurised. Then once the system is depressurised - and I always leave the engine idling for a few minutes just to make sure - when the engine is switched off the spheres can then be safely unscrewed. I'm sorry if I wasn't that clear in my original post.

Six months ago I changed the front and rear spheres for pattern parts from GSF Carparts. I knew the fronts were needing to be changed because the ride was hardening up and every bump sent the car pitching and bouncing. Also every road irregularity seemed to be transmitted into the cabin. The front spheres were easy to swap and the rears were too as I'd bought a sphere removal tool from Ebay and I loosened them off with car on highest setting (and supported on axle stands!) as the pressure stops the strut from turning and straining the metal pipes. Just make sure you only crack off the spheres just to get them moving and use Plusgas first between the sphere and strut. Anyway, despite all the spheres being changed, the ride - although improved - certainly lacks the magic carpet ride I was expecting. This was disappointing as I feel the ride quality is no better than my friends Ford Mondeo. Also, very occaisionally, there will be a loud groan from the front when starting up, the front will drop an inch or two then pump up to normal height. Could this be sticking front struts? The last MOT did issue an advisory for small trace of oil around strut gaiters... To date I have checked main balljoints, track rod outers, anti-rollbar droplinks and lower arm bushes. I have also checked for loose strut-top mounts but can't detect any slop anywhere. The car rises from lowest setting to highest setting although it can take a good few seconds before the front heaves itself skyward. I regularly WD40 the front and rear height correctors as well as do the Citerobics once a month. I've read that older Xantias have softer spheres so is it possible to retro-fit a 1997 Xantia with early MK 1 Xantia spheres? Thanks Doc

My 1997 1.9 TD SX hatchback has started to make an unusual sound when driving. It happens if engine is hot or cold, short journey or long run. Specifically when either coasting down a hill or lifting off the throttle or on over run, there is what I can only describe as a low growl from somewhere under the bonnet. A growl is the only way I can describe it as my wife thinks it's more like a cat purring albeit for a few seconds. Very occaisionally the engine management warning light (top left of instrument panel) will come on for a few seconds then go out. It doesn't do this with the noise but the lamp does come on when lifting off the throttle or changing down a gear. (yes, I have made sure neighbours cat hasn't climbed under the car to warm up) I've not heard this sound before on my XM or other Xantias I have driven. Any advice please? Cheers Doc

Hi all, I've just joined up. I've got a 1997 1.9 TD with manual box, and air-conditioning. Recently I've noticed the auxillary drive belt which drives air-con, alternator and hydro-pump start to oscillate noisily when engine is idling. The vibration and oscillation vanish if the revs pick up, only to return when idling. To date I have removed the belt and checked the guide and tensioner pulleys, crankshaft pulley and alternator pulley for damage and to make sure nothing is seizing or running out of true. I did notice the hydraulic pump pulley was hard to turn although I suspect that's due to pumping pressures and LHM in system. Anyone experienced same symptoms? Thanks in advance Doc