GreenBlood

It does sound like it has something to do with the suspension pressurising, if the service included topping up the LHS fluid (check your invoice). You should hear the pump for a few seconds when you enter the car - if the lights go out before or immediately on starting I would say you have nothing to worry about. As to why it may have behaved differently after the service, again it depends on whether the LHS lid had been removed, the reservoir is slightly pressurised and removing the lid releases that pressure, it may then take a while for things to return to 'normal'? Cheers Chris

Search function works for me... using Opera browser V11.5 I did a search but can't find your reference to pump damage? Our car is a 2002 HDi and the level sits just below the filler basket - there is a tolerance i.e. max/min level so unless you really overfill I doubt you would have a problem. Cheers Chris

I understand that as the reservoir is slightly pressurised overfilling can cause it to rupture? I've never heard of this actually happening but it is a caution in Citroen documentation. I've not seen any suggestion that overfilling can damage the pump. Cheers Chris

I'd be having a close look at the crackshaft pulley, they can make a real racket when about to fail, this could also explain the loss of power steer, the inner and outer of the crankshaft pulley slips (check by marking through the two parts with a white out pen, start the car and look for movement. Cheers Chris

This is a reply on the aussiefrogs site, the member couldn't post here?? Hi,, I did try to reply on the UK site but !!//?? I do have an air control/ conditioning unit that is out of the car, from a wreck. I can look at some things if you wish. Not interested in selling things so go to David if you wish to do that. It is a very large size!! You would have to dismantle a lot of the dash etc to get it out I would think It is not so easy to see how the air travels through it either, from the outside. The plastic can be moulded to any shape and they seem to have chosen to do something complicated The LHS upper motor seem to be the upper temp control which has a triple flap which rotates in line with the shaft. I think the center flap is cold and the outer flaps on each side are hot. As the shaft turns the center closes and the others open etc. There is a rod connected inside which also operates another internal flap for the cold which is hard to see. The LHS lower motor controls the air to the feet that side. It is the one which fails and this one has a cracked plastic boss. I have repaired this in my own cars unit by the glue method. Works OK. The RHS lower motor does the air to the feet on the drivers side in a similar manner to the other. However it is not close to the heater pipes so it survives OK. There is another different type of motor higher up on the RHS which controls the outside/inside air. It has a plastic gear segment on it which meshes with the segments on the two flap shafts. There are at least three thermistors which plug into various places. These, I guess are providing feedback to the computer. I would do a reset first if I were you pull the battery lead off for a minute ( with everything turned off ), See if that fixes anything. I believe the computer sometimes get its signals mixed and the software cannot sort it out. Note there is some resetting recommended for the windows and the throttle position after this also. Cheers Jaahn Maybe of some help? Cheers Chris

My guess would be that the mixing flap motors 3 and 6 are failing on both sides with passenger side working some of the time? These would control the ratio of hot/ cold air. I would think the distribution flaps control air to footwell/ dash/ windscreen? I doubt you have a problem with temp sensors. From what I have gleaned from an email via the aussiefrog site, the drivers side should be easier to check?? Cheers Chris

Try aussiefrogs again, it should be fixed there, the image tags don't seem to allow me to link to attachments on AF, these links should take you to the images. IMAGE 1 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16511&stc=1&d=1307104147 IMAGE 2 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16512&stc=1&d=1307104147 Cheers Chris

Not sure if images will show, but we'll give this a shot - if not have a look here http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?p=958856#post958856 This is the left hand side (access via the glovebox) The reduction motor for distribution flaps = 2 The reduction motor for mixing flaps = 3 IMAGE 1 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16508&stc=1&d=1307098266 (what are the correct image tags on this board? I used .. not happy } This is the right hand side (access remove the cover under the dash in the RH foot well and the cover that's covering where the steering column goes through and look behind the dash for the motor) The reduction motor for distribution flaps = 4 The reduction motor for mixing flaps = 6 IMAGE 2 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16509&stc=1&d=1307098266 Cheers Chris

We may be talking at cross purposes here, is your car LHD or like the UK and Australian cars RHD? If RHD drive yes, I would agree, but we have to remember this is a Citroen we can't apply common sense :D I'm going to ask for assistance on the Aussie French car forum www.aussiefrogs.com we have a few members that are very knowledgeable and should be able to point you to which motor is the culprit ;) Cheers Chris

You're doing a great job talking to yourself :D I think you have pretty well diagnosed your problem, as I understnd it, there are two flap motors, the upper motor controls the passenger side (RHD) and the lower controls the driver side. You seem to have a failure of the lower which is unusual. Access is via the glovebox, I've not done this job myself, apparently it's a bit of an exercise, you will break clips and lose some skin - but several on here have had success. It may be worth checking with Citroen, I have heard an inexpesive kit to repair the drive cog on the motor/flap control (rather than replace the whole unit). Keep us posted, pics would be appreciated ;) Cheers Chris

Yes you're on the right track, level is checked with suspension set on LOW. Common leak I would check is the front suspension return lines, you can see this by turning front wheel full lock, check both sides. The rubber return line breaks where it joins the metal tube leading back to the reservoir. Use only LDS (orange fluid for top up. B) Cheers Chris

Our moderators seem to be AWOL... All we can do is ignore the spam, and keep the forum alive until the mods get in and clean up the mess. Hang in there, keep posting <_< Cheers Chris

Have a look here >>> http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?p=917200#post917200 <<< Cheers Chris

I'd be looking for a leak ;) A common and not always obvious leak can be the return line on the front struts, these crack and break at the top where they connect to the steel pipe, easy to check with suspension on high no need to remove wheel. Cheers Chris

Check these links.. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=8552&pid=41504&st=0entry41504 http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=8622&pid=41739&st=0entry41739 Cheers Chris