citrophile

Finally got round to this and re-initialised the motor and it does now work as it should except that the runners are quite stiff on the last two settings. If i help it along with a bit of gentle pressure then it works fine so i think it just needs a bit of lubrication. However, I can't see from either the car itself or from the diagrams on the citroen service site, how I get access to the runners in order to grease them. Any clues anyone? I don't want to start pulling trims and gaskets off in case I dmage them and then the roof leaks!! Also, what sort of lubricant do i need, i'm thinking some sort of grease? Thanks Rob

Thanks Paul, I will give this a try and let you know what happens. I can see why Haynes says go to the dealer....!!!! Rob

Yep, it seems it is a problem with the Lexia stuff. I run mine through Diagbox which apparently can corrupt the settings sometimes. Solution is to go into Pug 407 diagnostics, then reconfirm front parking sensors. Did that and problem solved. As far as I know you don't have to calibrate sensors when changed - or at least I've never needed to on mine. Rob

Paul's dead right, I've had previous experience of garages failing my car because they didn't understand how the suspension system works. Ever since I've always used the local dealer and never had a problem. You'll also find the dealer isn't doing it to a price and therefore has less incentive to fail on borderline items. Don't forget that VOSA set a maximum fee for an MOT. Also, a £40 test fee is a cheap way to get a garage to check out all the important safety bits on your car. It's less than they'd charge you for half an hours time.

I have a feeling they extend using water pressure rather than any specific electric or other system

Recently have been getting a fault on parking sensor system (error message and no display when in reverse) but ignored it as it wasn't critical and have only had time to have a proper look this weekend. Plugged in the lexia, did a diagnosis and it came up with failed rear sensor. All well and good I thought, so replaced the sensor, checked for faults, all appeared ok. Stuck it in reverse and it works fine but the front sensors dont work. Checked again and did a diagnosis and lexia says the wiring circuits etc are fine, no open circuits, no short circuits (or so it says). I seem to have hit a wall with this now (excuse the pun!). Is there something i'm missing, like a possible faulty ECU, or something else. Also, is there a way to check the sensors off the car without them being plugged in so I can at least narrow it down. Cheers Rob

Once you start modifying cars, regardless of whether it is done by the manufacturer/dealer, you can get into all sorts of issues with insurance companies as generally they steer clear of people that "modify" their cars for performance (think of the boy racer brigade - I used to do it but that was 30 years ago! and insurers were less picky then). Legally you have to tell them and at best it will increase your premiums, at worst they may cancel your insurance. Might I suggest that, if the only issue is your wife pulling away in too high a gear, that you try and get her to adapt her driving style (it'll be cheaper and easier in the long run). Alternatively, buy an autobox car, although this may not be easy if you have a motability car. Rob

You don't mention which year, but if it is a facelift (mk2) then the SIM card slot is just below the CD eject button on the right hand side of the radio unit. There's a tiny button above the sim slot. Press this and the sim carrier pops out enough to get your fingers around. Put sim in carrier and pop back in slot and push in flush. Rob

The factory fit electric sunroof on my wife's VTR has become very sticky and now won't even open. The motor starts to run but then stops when it can't actually move the mechanism, probably as it has a cut out to avoid damaging the motor. Had a similar problem a number of years ago and the dealer did some fiddling around and lubricated the mechanism. I suspect the mechanism just needs a good clean and lubrication but the Haynes BOL is no help as it just says it's too complicated and difficult and to take it to a dealer. Does anybody have any thoughts on how difficult this is or if possible can they post any instructions on how to do it. Cheers Rob.

Thanks all for the useful replies. I have now added the following to my list: Xenon headlamp washer system Engine sensors, airflow sensor, inlet electrovalves Central locking actuators Alternator Callipers HP pump Comms 2000 Door handles Radiator/Cooling fan assembly AC condensor AC compressor Electric steering pump Front & Rear height adjusters As for other suggestions: The hydraulic suspension pump is dead. That and the badly corrroded hydraulic pipes were the reason I had to get another one, although if I knew then what I now know about C5's I would have repaired them myself......c'est la vie...!!! Can't take the struts off as need to keep the car moveable. There was nothing wrong with the engine and gearbox but I have since taken a couple of bits such as EGR valve and water pipes etc. Do you think its worth keeping some other engine stuff like injectors/fuel rails water pump, vacuum pump......??? Is the cat/dpf worth anything? Finally, if anyone else has a need for something send me a PM. Can't promise I'll have everything and it may be some time before I get everything off. Rob

Hi All I have been given a minor! ultimatum from SWMBO so it’s time for me to finally strip my 2005 VTR and reclaim my driveway. My thoughts are that I should keep as many of the “useful†bits as possible as they should all fit my current 2005 Exclsusive so I wondered what the views were about keeping the following or anything else I may not have thought about. Front headlight units (xenon directional) Rear light clusters Side repeaters Starter motor (it was new a few months before I had to retire the car) Fuses/Relays Centre console/fascia switch modules Window switches Parking sensors Front spot lights Interior lights High level brake light Tow bar wiring Boot lock Wing mirrors Radio module/CD Changer BSI and other electronic modules Wiper motors Electric window motors Various internal trims I can’t keep any of the bigger body items like doors, bonnet, boot etc. Cheers Rob

Yes Paul, definitely the easiest one so far!!! Still have my dashboard removal to look forward to at Easter to fix my heater flaps.......Ho hum

Managed to get home from work early this evening and got the car up on stands and removed the front wheel. I found a wheel weight with a very shiny bit where it looked like it was hitting something. It turns out that the metal loop bracket that the handbrake cable runs through had moved slightly which resulted in the metal weight hitting it every time the wheel went round. Pushed the bracket out of the way and problem solved...yay.

Jumped in the car this morning and have got a loud knocking noise from the front drivers side when driving. It happens when the wheel is going round and doesn't vary with engine revs but does with road speed. Sounds a bit like something got itself wrapped around the wheel and then is hitting something every time it goes round. It was fine yesterday. Couldn't see anything when had a quick look this morning. Have had to get to work in another car but will have a look tonight and take the wheels off. Any thoughts? Could it be a driveshaft problem? Rob.

Seems I ordered the strap direct (not via ebay as I thought) from ClampCo (link below). The strap I ordered was an MB5 which is listed as for a C2 but it also fits the C3 (and a range of other PSA cars I believe). http://www.clampcouk.co.uk/exhaust-repair/exhaust-brackets-straps.html?limit=48 Rob

Thanks Paul, already have the strap (via eBay) and fitted it earlier today. Actually not that difficult. Seem to be spending most of my free time these days flat on my back under one Citroen or another.........still, must be saving thousands on garage bills.

Well, have now fitted the replacement pipe and refilled with LDS (over 3 litres!) and, so far, all well and working. Did have a couple of "oh my god, now what?" moments with the suspension as it seemed to be stuck on low and the pump was just running but after a couple of minutes it started to rise. Must have just been re-priming and pressurizing the suspension as the reservoir had been empty! Now what am I going to do with my Sunday? Oh yeah, my wife's C3 needs the rear exhaust box strap replaced.......!!! Cheers Rob

Suddenly had a thought yesterday that my old VTR would have the same set up so stripped out the complete pipe, cleaned it up, and will be fitting it this morning. It's a bit fiddly but not that difficult. Worst bit was getting ratchet and T40 bit in to remove the bolt from the rack connection!

When I had the C3 plugged into the lexia recently I noticed a couple of entries for cruise control/speed limiter. Does this mean I can fit it. I know that on the C5 you can just connect the cruise control "stalk" below the lights and away you go. Is this the same for the C3 and if so can I connect the cruise control stalk from my C5. Rob

It's a mk2 and the leak is on the metal tube itself. What's liquid metal and where would I get some?

I have traced my steering problem (ie no power assistance!) to a leak on the hydraulic return pipe from the steering rack where it runs in a cranked tube bolted to the side of the sub-frame. The citroen service diagram says this is the low pressure part of the system. I don't want to go to the hassle (and no doubt expense) of renewing the whole pipe, which is a combination of flexible hoses and metal pipe which runs round the passenger side of the engine bay and back to the pump, and though that I could just cut out the leaking section and replace it with some flexible hydraulic hose and jubilee clips. Any thoughts as to whether this would work? Rob

Just to let you guys know, turbo all changed yesterday, started with no problems and my wife is happy her car is well again!! At least the weather has been a bit kinder to me than when I did the C5 turbo in October last year. If anyone else has a turbo problem on a 1.6HDI I can certainly recommend doing it yourself if you're half decent with a set of tools. Am happy to provide advice if anyone needs it. Rob

Thanks Paul. Replacement condensor should be here in a day or so so I will be able to fit it on the weekend when I do the turbo. What would I do without Citroen to fill up my weekends... :D

Have now removed the damaged condensor on my wife's C3 and am about to order a replacement to fit in the next few days. The double O ring seals on the two pipes seem to be OK but I'm not sure if I should use some sort of lubricant or sealant when I fit the new condensor to the existing pipes. If so, then what is it I should use? Cheers Rob

Yes Paul, seems like I've been unlucky enough to have two turbo failures in a few months on both our cars..!!! That sounds like the throttle body. It has a couple of electro valves, some sensors and 4 air connections, 1 from air intake, 1 to intercooler, 1 from intercooler, and 1 to the turbo inlet via the resonator thingy. The condenser sprang a leak last year so there is no gas in it currently as decided it was too costly and awkward to do last year and now I have the front off seems like the best time to do it. Rob