Ronin

Closest one with a good reputation is: Technically Auto's Citroen and Peugot specialists, Withy Rd. Bilston on the A463 about 4 miles east from Walsall centre telephone: 01902 354774 Tell them you are a member of the citroen owners club forum who reccomended them and how about some discount for a good review? hehehehe :blink: you're welcome m8 Let us know how you get on please.

There is becoming an apparent patern with high mileage hdi auto's. A lot of AP faults can be boiled down to short journey's which eventually clog the whole system including the EGR valve. I can only imagine that the way an auto box works, it doesn't help the situation. There are many quick and easy solutions to try first before expecting the worst so take an hour and read as many posts as you can. There are some gems of information. As far as the lights, try cleaning the plugs and contacts to the headlamps etc. Pay special attention to the battery terminals and leads. Next check and clean the lighting earth points on the inner n/s/f wing. It may also be worth your while cleaning or replacing the earth lead to the gearbox. You never know but many of your problems could be related to this. Fuses blow for a reason, so find the cause and not the initial cure. A bad earth can cause many problems with auto boxes and the electronics involved with complicated ECU's and AP faults. There's a hint for everyone :blink:

Sounds like an ISO multiplug is loose behind the stereo head unit and/ or the Function multiplug on the display unit. both easy to check. A slim flat blade screwdriver and a T25 torx bit is that is required. If you need instructions just ask m8. :rolleyes:

Yeah it does sound like you left a locking bolt in maybe.... Don't worry, I won't take the micky as we have all been there and done that at one stage m8. Don't let it put you off though. You will soon get the hang of it... All I can say is a golden rule about timing belts. "If it doesn't go right first time or even if you have a feeling it's not quite right, don't attempt to start the engine. It's then best left to a mechanic to sort out...then blame him if it goes wrong" lol This will cheer you up though. A mate of mine is a subaru technician. He has more certificates than you can shake a stick at. He gets hold of a brand new pro-drive to work on for a pre delivery inspection and service...... He's workin merrily away looking forward to the "test drive" and checks the oil.... Only trouble is he leaves the dipstick lying on the top of the engine cover near the intercooler Yep that's right he forgot and only remembered when he was caining it up a country road and hears this almighty bang and clatter! He pulls over and lifts the bonnet, waving away the smoke he notices the handle of the dipstick poking through the edge of one of the cam covers! how it managed to drop between an inspection gap in the casing and not on the road surface nobody knows. He learned a valuable lesson and an expensive one plus the lads at work have never ever let him forget it! Even the pro's get it wrong sometimes m8 :rolleyes:

Ebay ... search for Citroen AX Alloys. You'd be surprised how many then follow the links to other companies and fine even more! Trust me m8 changing the hubs,housings bearings, brake drums/ discs front struts and driveshafts etc. etc. is a right pain in the arse! for a set of alloys. My GT was turbocharged and the brake pads/discs/calipers/ drums, wheels & suspension were all uprated to suit without the need for major surgery. Just aftermarket bolt on performance bits is all you need and good for 150 bhp. :rolleyes:

I have to say that my dealership (Croxdale Citroen) has been very, very good in all matters. The service manager has been a wealth of knowledge for easy fixes to avoid £££ costs that tie up his service bays for more important jobs. I've actually figured out that he has saved me over the past two years about £1000 in labour costs alone Now that's what i call good customer relations. In return my whole family go there for servicing and parts now, even if it isn't a citroen and no complaints I'm sorry that you are having problems m8 and i hope you get some resolution but we all must remember not to tar all dealers with the same brush. There are some really good ones out there too. :rolleyes:

In the interest of your safety I would reccomend that the rear leaks are handled by an independant citroen specialist at the very least. You would be very surprised at just how cheap some of the repairs can cost once they have had a good look at the situation. Dealers often quote on a "worst case scenario basis" It sounds like the front leak is coming from one of the rubber hoses for the power steering pump from or to the reservior. They often split just before the metal right angle bend (often on the inner bend of the metal pipe section that is crimped over the rubber, leaks from there down the rubber pipe. This happens a lot if they arent secured properly in the retaining clips with vibration or swinging about). This hose and elbow is a dealer part only I'm afraid and comes as a single unit. It isn't diificult to replace for a technician so labour isn't that bad. Give us a rough idea of your location and i'm sure we can sort out a reliable citroen independant specialist nearby ok m8. Don't worry, they aren't that evil ;)

They should fit but try an automotive engineer company who has experience . Cleasby engineering in Durham are excellent and can modify a manifold to take anything. http://www.cleasbypes.co.uk/

Look at it another way: Haynes manual = 20 euro's Extra tools and bits= 40 euro's Cambelt = 80 euro's Your time fitting it =3.5 hrs @ 0 euro's Sense of achievement when it's done properly along with knowledge and confidence = Priceless Or Try DIY and find you can't do it, tow it to the the garage anyway = Nothing to loose trying and you have done most of the work for them. Or The alternative ££££'s when it breaks = car that was worth 1500 euro's is now worthless!

Hmmm this is a wierd one. I'm thinking down a different path of logic here. I'm just wondering if we can resolve this fairly easy here but it all depends on what your answers to a few questions are m8 ok. Is it a generalised AP fault on the display or is it specific? What symptoms are you experiencing while driving the car if any? What kind of regular journey do you do in the car? I'll give you an example of what I mean m8... (I travel to work monday through friday. it's 50 mile round trip on mixed roads A and B roads. The car can travel at a constant speed for about 8 miles between two junctions etc. The car is staitionary at a busy junction in the morning for about 5 minutes and then further along a temporaray set of traffic lights for a further 4 minutes. The car has had only short journey's to the shop over the weekend of about 1.5 miles) This kind of info is invaluable m8 and typing it out like that leads to some surprising, if not obvious reasons why DPF/ AP and EGR faults can occur. For instance I would tend to think if your journey was similar to what I have described the fault would come up eventually without fail. Here is a quick fix that many on here have tried with some success. My Grandfather who has the same model as you has done this also after getting advice from a main deal service manager with regards to AP faults. He now does this every 6 month. Buy some diesel additive/ injector cleaner and add it to a fairly full tank. Take the car out for a long steady run of 40 + miles and a steady speed of 40 mph (important) even if you have to get on the dual carraigway at night. The car has to keep at this constant speed for at least those amount of miles with no interuptions. Ignore the cursing truckers! It may sound daft but trust me, it works on general AP faults. You will find that when you get home and restart the engine the next morning the fault will have disapeared (hopefully) It works by giving the engine and DPF a chance of burning off the excess carbon build up at a constant nominal temperature. It also does the same to the whole fuel system. A lot of owners get hung up on AP faults expecting the worst or start replacing everything associated but all the car is saying is "I need a good clean out" It's certainly worth a go m8 as it works out about £11 for fuel and additive which is a hell of a lot cheaper than an hours labour getting a fault check done. If it's still no better or if the car is not driving as it should.Then you know pretty much for sure that its an ECU or electronic issue. I would take it for a fault code check for that. Let us know how you get on m8 ok :lol:

I've never had a problem with the external temp sensor but often they can give false readings. Make sure that it doesnt have anything stuck to it like car polish, squashed bugs etc. It is located on the bottom of the passenger wing mirror. I'm not to sure how to reset it but I presume it will have something to do with the dispaly module. I know you can adjust between C & F and maybe this might help. Sorry I can't help beyond that m8. Your coolant is pretty much standard and can mix with aftermarket coolants. A mixture of 33% coolant, 67% water is ideal for summer/spring/autumn usage & 50%/50% for winter usage. Make sure it doesn't run too low or air will enter the system and bleeding it will be required. :lol:

I believe its variable m8 with back pressure of the engine, temperature of the gases at the time which, in turn can change the volume & mass in manifold absolute pressure. Usual faults on the vaccuum and valve itself is due to obstruction and clogging. You could try some compressed air in the vaccuum tube to see if there is any obstruction first m8. I know this is not for the C5 but the principles are the same. Try here m8 ok. http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm

No experience of chipping the C5 but i've had plenty with other cars with chip upgrades. A lot of people are fearful about chipping and remapping thinking that it will cause early wear, problems with fuel and electronic systems. All I can tell you is not to worry..... Fuel economy often improves because you don't have to work the throttle as hard. Power delivery is smooth and doesn't come in one massive lump. generally the car feels much, much better to drive even when tootling along in town. Reliability has never been an issue for me after chipping a car. My Astra GTE was chipped from 149bhp to 178bhp at 10,000 miles. I had no issues with it and sold it in confidence at 112,000 to a close friend who had no issues from the ECU or fueling for a further 40,000 miles. My Alfa 156 v6 24v is seriously upgraded to 254bhp from 185 bhp I went down the route of re-mapping to 235bhp , the rest coming from mechanical mods. Another alfa v6 owner m8 took a different aproach and went all out mechanical upgrades and gets similar power output. He regrets it as his car is no where near civil to drive as mine, it's just due to the way the re-map delivers the extra power & torque. The only things that I would do and believe me they are essential, is: Upgrade the brakes! Road/race pads to start but any more than +50 bhp will need bigger discs to. Clutch upgrade! The clutch on the 2.2 hdi is basically on it's limit to start off with.... Just look at the many posts regarding the clutch! Get it upgraded. For peace of mind I would strongly recommend changing the DMF flywheel for a solid version (Valeo kit £200) Change the timing belt: All that extra torque and power will shred a well worn belt like fat chick trying to open a chocolate orange wrapper. It is worth doing m8 but if you are going to invest, do it properly and near the time any of these parts above are due for renewal anyway. I have heard that a 2.2hdi can be tweaked as high as 250bhp and 400ft/lbs + of torque with re-map/ ecu replacement and a tweak to the turbo actuator load spring... God knows what it would be like but I bet it goes like a "girlfriend been told her sister was better at doing it in this position" Either way, you have to hang on for grim life! hehehe :lol:

Read this Mr Mark. It might help. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citro...?showtopic=5786

There is another possibility which has come to light on my Dad's hdi a few days ago. It started to have poor performance over the past six months, We went through the checks described in my previous post and it did improve but not by much. I was stood over the engine looking & listening for fuel or air leaks while Dad was revving it and nothing seemed wrongl. then my Grandad came out & noticed the accelerator cable slightly moving. (trust him to spot the obvious) Even though Dad was putting his foot right down it wasn't opening the linkage right up. He turned off and held down the pedal and sure enough it was moving the linkage very little indeed. Once again we went to our friendly service manager at Croxdale Citroen and asked his opinion. Sure enough its a common issue and it is blamed on the cable stretching or sticking with age and wear. Imagine having your accelerator halfway down. The car will still rev high enough to hit the rev limiter but it isn't enough to open the pump enough to deliver the extra fuel..... So the pressure won't be enough to get any benefit from the turbo. My Grandad said to both of us "What have I told you two before? Always look at the bloody obvious first!" They replaced the cable and amazingly the power came back. Dad has reliably informed me that it is like a rocket in comparison so the cable has been stretching like that for a long, long time. Hope it helps :huh:

Sorry Myglaren, I must have missed this one..... Yokohama yes I've had experiences of them. Fantastic traction and grip in the dry but greasy in the wet. It's down to a softer compound they use . They also don't last that long either. I got 15,000 out of the front pair on my old Pug 205 gti. I did manage to get 23,000 on the back pair though. I now use Uniroyals only. ever since I had to replace the goodyear's on my old AXGT because of a sidewall bleb on both tyres! over the years I've tried lots of different makes and manufacturers and all I can tell you is the Uniroyals have offered by far the best compromise and awsome in the wet. I use the Rallye 550 pattern on the C5 now. The next choice if I had to make one would be Michelins but they are hard and noisy they also scrabble for grip a lot. My Alfa is shod with Pirrelli Pzero directionals at the moment but as soon a they wear the Uniroyals will be on.

They are very similar to the BX and Xantia m8, just modified slightly and its the same routine to replace them... They do go /-----\ on C5's after time but not as quick as the other models, the cracking noise is the inital stages of bearing failure. If you've done BX's before you shouldn't have much difficulty m8

I'm afraid there isn't much info on the net about C5 wiring etc. The best I can come up with is this: http://www.scribd.com/doc/2530474/Citroen-Technical-Guide sorry m8 :huh:

the button should unscew off, the handle should pull off with some applied force to it. Personally I would get hold of a sleeved upgrade instead that just fits over the top of the existing handle like a chrome tube and comes with a tight fitting cap for the release button. Remember, citroen logo's can be bought quite readily and stuck on. It doesn't mean that they are actually meant for that vehicle. If it was It should have come with fitting instructions! Contact the seller if in doubt. :lol:

Yeah it's not that difficult to do but make sure the stalk isn't from a lower spec car or some wiper features won't work. also match the body type. hatchback to hatchback or estate to estate version (rear wiper facility). My button went a bit wierd but after a few squirts of good old electrical contact cleaner (maplins £3) and a few vigorous button presses I've had no more problems. I would also advise giving the button a thorough clean to remove sticky residue off your hands from around the edges of the button. This can make it stick in one mode as the switch is a "push to make" contact type. It needs to fully depress from the switch in order for it to progress to the next setting. An old. clean toothbrush does the trick :lol:

Yep.... try bleeding the coolant system. Irregular operation of fans can be for two main reasons : air in the system or faulty temp senders etc. There will be what looks like a tyre valve dust cap on one of the coolant hoses usually at its highest point. Open the coolant filler cap when its cold and start the engine with this dust cap open, let the engine tick over. keep an eye on the fluid level , don't let it drop below minimum(have a jug of water handy). When the engine has warmed up you will start to see the coolant start coming out the valve in drips and drabs, like it's spitting. once it is flowing freely use a cloth to avoid scalding and re-tighten the valve up. If it flows freely pretty much right from the start it will possibly be an electrical issue with a contact / temp sensor for the fan or radiator. Most motor factors can order these in quite cheaply and they aren't difficult to replace. A decent garage can do all this is 30 minutes or so if you aren't mechanically minded. It does sound more like a faulty sensor but I would bleed it first to make sure as its free to do and quite easy.

Lol think yourself lucky. When I was serving in Afghanistan I was a passenger in an old russian made truck that when it turned right, the right headlight would work and left, the left one would work???? I asked the Afghan driver why? He said "it saves electrickery, the battery aint so good......besides my wife only has one pair of tights left" Hamed was an ex bomb disposal expert (6 fingers and 1 thumb left) and had used a pair of tilt vibration switches from a couple of IED's that he had defused by the roadside! He was one of the funniest yet most resourceful guys I have ever met. Citroen could learn a lot from that guy :lol: ;) :lol:

Give the local dealer a ring with your chassis number, they will be able to tell what gearbox m8 ok.

There are a few things to keep an eye on m8 but all can be reasonably solved. Have a read through the C5 section and it will become apparent. Electrical gremlins are the main bugbear but these can usually solved by keeping all the plugs and contacts in good condition before they cause problems. Believe it or not the suspension is about as reliable as citroen have ever made in comparison to older makes. Its mainly due to the electric motor used instead of the old hydraulic pump, therefore less to go wrong. The main legacy that the C5 has from previous citroens is the rear suspension arm bearings, again these seem to be stronger but will go with time. You will notice a creaking and banging at first from the rear then the back wheels will look like this : /---\ when it gets bad. This can be solved DIY style. Brake calipers and corrosion on the connecting parts.... again a keen DIY'er can solve this. Suspension spheres will need eventual replacement (as they usually do) but even these seem to be more reliable. Just look at the mileage of some of the C5's we own on this site and then it comes as no surprise that they do last longer before someone asks about them. A lot of owners will go on about suspension but I look at it this way, You might be lucky and get 100,000 miles out of it before big bills come along. But.... at least you haven't had to replace it three times over like traditional spring /damper type cars! On the downside to that though the suspension is so smooth that it takes a long time before problems show themselves Which means that little issues go unoticed and then turn into bigger cost at the end of it. When a spring or damper goes on a normal car, you know about it right there and then! Dare I say it, Diesel's seem to be a bit more complicated to own than petrol models but this is probably down to: A lot more emission work going on under the bonnet A lot more diesel owners than petrol owners so more faults are reported An overall heavier front end so brakes/ suspension wears out quicker. If you're handy, you should have very little trouble getting your C5 back to former glory. NO BLOODY HAYNES MANUAL YET! means that you will have to really on the many friendly and informative guys we have on here.We are all glad to help m8. Bear in mind though most people post when they have problems and not when the car runs sweet so when you read some horror stories about C5's, take into account that there is a hell of a lot more owners who don't have problems B.t.w. Myglaren the book price on a 2001 plate varies from engine type, mileage, trade in or private and of course condition but the average is around the £1,200 to £2.400 mark. mid spec. silver turbodiesel estates being the most sought after. Autotrader is a good site to get a ball park figure on what your car is worth. ;) Sorry about the long post but one last thing that I found handy when buying a C5. It sounds crazy but go for higher mileage models! Why?.... well a few reasons. High mileage means nothing these days but the prices reflect it. When I bought mine I knew what they were like from family members already but I made sure the mileage was over the major service parts period so things that cost a lot were already done. Things like timing belts, spheres, cats, clutches etc. Make sure it has a full service history and lots and lots of bills. Presto you have a C5 good for at least another 50,000... not so crazy! :lol:

Passenger footwell behind the glove box I believe m8. I don't think they changed the position since the days of the Xantia. I would also check the voltage from the ignition switch. A fix on Xantia's was to run a relay patch.