streaky

i'd check power feed to one not working. if thats okay then must be glow plug. running on your fuel mix if cooking oil used then i'd check your fuel filters as these can block and clog with the thicker oil so need changing more regular to keep engine supply happy. which would also account for the problems starting when really cold which a dead glow plug will not help but should still start with three. to remove glow plug just remove parts close to it and it a bit of a fiddle but once intercooler/turbo pipe removed not bad to get to not that i've done it

can anyone give me some pointers please. unsure how long the belt has been on my car so going to change it for peace of mind. i've not had much experiance of diesel's and there belts so is this an easy job or do i need a locking tool so the pump does not move when the belt is removed? and do you have to lock the engine or just line it all up to tdc? and any other things that may cause problem like sticking pulleys etc as will be doing this on my drive at home also is ok to just change the belt or get a kit which has tensioner in it as well? my car is a P reg 1.9 tdi with no air con and has covered 160,000 if this makes any difference. any tips or how too will be very welcome thanks

well done doing the change, you where lucky the pin in the release arm was siezed on mine and took an hour to get out other than thagt not a bad job

wonder if this the problem with mine but didn'tnotice the rings being loose. which fuse is it to make the brakes work with out abs as mine locks up so maybe my problems are the fuse is missing? causing abs light to be on and not working

hi people i have a 97 1.9td and ever since i've had the car the orange abs light has been on . i have changed all the abs sensors and it is still on. someone now said to me the brake ecu is a common fault. what i'd like to know is do these differ from car to car or can i get any ecu from a scrappy to hopefully restore full braking with abs? heater trouble the car runs at normal temp yet the heater only blows warm air through the centre dash vents. when i slide the control to hot and on demist it does not blow on to the windscreen yet if i then slide to cold it will blow on the windscreen. is this a normal problem? i have flushed the rad and heater matrix fitted new thermostat and bled the system and all pipes get lovely and hot so know its not an air lock is it just the heater controls that are round the wrong way or something more drastic? car has normal heater not air con

the linkage that connects to the box has a ball and socket connection of different sizes. sounds like one has come of so its not changing when you try and change gear, or one has siezed not allowing you to change gear. just an idea may not be the problem

wise words from Ronin also the radiator cap can have a worn rubber there fore not sealing properly or a weakened spring, which can cause the system to run hot and cold also as it looses to much fluid. just another option for you which i came across before on xantia's

xantia's are very prone to the wire's in the harness across the front rotting away from witjin. sounds to me like you have no power to back of the fuel pump solenoid. you have fitted bypass switch to the glow plugs so getting power there. try putting power to the pump when lights are out (small 8mm nut at back of pump) heat as normal and see if car starts. if so you can then put a switched live to this and car should start all the time.if this not the case let me know and i'll ask my mate at work who electric guru on citreon

another cause can be the belt tensioner itself. have known this be the case on peugeot's that use the same type of engine. and costly as it may be pattern belts can be out of true so find its just as easy to fit a genuine belt for the car which saves money in the long run.

if you do attempt diy make sure the release arm fork start facing straight towards the clutch plate so when relocating the box it should slot into bearing which should have the arm wholes located towards the front of the car at 10 and 8 o clock as per a clock face. once gearbox in place just engage two bolts to engine to secure the box. replace arm and pin and clutch cable to test the clutch is operating before refiting everything. just in case the release arm has not engaged properly. if anyone wants i can write a guide to doing this job.

there are certain makes of stereo that you can get a harness to make steering wheels controls work. go see your local stereo shop and they should be able to advise you on this.

hi i'm newbie on here but been a mechanic for 17yrs. the hard pedal on a xantia is most cases down to the clutch wearing and may be getting due for replacement. the 1.9 td has a pull type clutch and mine a (1997 1.9td) had the same problem. changed the clutch and its now as should be. in some cases it can be the cable but sadly i would say more than likely the clutch. unless your a very good mechanic do not attempt to change the clutch as these are known for the arm release pin seiezing as does the arm which have to be removed to remove the gearbox. a lot of heat and patience can be needed and a new bush for the top of the gearbox.