cibvr4

Ok I bit the bullet and just went for it! Here's what I found.. Original regulator was installed with a missing O-ring, but the black coating over the join to the pump stopped any leaks. Installing new regulator without O-ring resulted in leaking regulator. Inner diameter of pump housing is 19.85mm. Regulator is 19.65mm, so a thin O-ring is required to fill that gap. I also used a small amount of flexible sealant between the body of the pump and mounting surface of the regulator. All good no leaks. Points to remember... 1. OEM part 19338 ships without required O-ring. You will need to source your own. 2. Keep any sealant well away from the O- ring and regulator tip. Only use a small amount (gas / oil resistant) of flexible gasket sealant and allow to dry before running vehicle to check for leaks. This is an easy job, requiring removal of the pump to rail fuel line, and plastic lines between the filter and pump. This gives enough room to swing a small ratchet with size 30 torx bit on the regulator screws. Local workshop quoted me over $1600 to replace the regulator. I sourced it myself from UK for under £200 and had it fitted in under an hour. Car now runs smooth at all throttle positions and so far no error messages or limp mode.

Hey guys. Got my new regulator but am after some guidance before I take the old one off. Although a replaceable part fixed with 2 torx screws, it appears to have been assembled as part of the fuel pump, and then painted with the pump. The new one came with an O ring but no gasket. Once I crack the old one off what am I going to be faced with in terms of ensuring the new one doesn't leak? Will there be a gasket between the regulator and pump? Is it reusable? Is that O ring all I need? I'm a bit hesitant as it doesn't look like it was ever meant to be parted from the pump once assembled. Thanks

Hey guys - Is there an easy way to check / clean / repair of the high pressure fuel regulator? Anti Pollution fault is persisiting with a fault code for the fuel regulator. Been quoted $1600 here in Australia, and with the uncertainty surrounding the AP fault I'm hesitant to throw that sort of cash at it up front. It is a servicable part? Is something like MAF cleaner or WD40 going to be doing any good? Cheers

It's the 2.0 HDi. Spoke to the workshop today and they've got the fault to show again, high pressure fuel regulator. Waiting on a cost for this part, but if it has to be done then it has to be done. Cheers

Thanks Paul good to know. The replacement one is 10,000kms less than my original, but not sure u want to force the computer on these things to think too hard! Today my wife was driving and got the "anti-pollution" fault and service light. Car went into limp mode so she called out local roadside assist and the car was towed to our local Euro specialist. Not sure if it is related to the surging we've been experiencing, perhaps? I was tempted to suggest he check EGR system and Intake, but thought better of it. Let him do his own fault finding rather than possibly point him in the wrong direction. Anyway my wife called him late this afternoon and he said he couldn't find anything wrong. No diagnostic errors and everything checking out ok. If he draws a blank tomorrow I'll be asking him to check EGR system as that seems to be the culprit a lot of the time. Will keep this post updated!

Hey guys We bought a 2002 HDI C5 last week, more by accident than design. We were after a cheap daily driver for my wife to run the kids around in. Had to be diesel, and after looking at the 307's and Golf's, settled on a 2002 C5. Half the price, classy interior, and handles the 30km drive into the city we do daily with such ease. So far we've done 600kms and we still have 1/3 of a tank left!! With that economy it will actually pay for itself in 2 years! A few days after we purchased it the speedo stopped working. No stress, searched on here and found the fix. Removed the cluster, changed the stepper motor with the tacho one, and all is good. Found another cluster on eBay, so I will have another 2 stepper motors or might just swap the whole cluster over. Just a couple of questions. The first is with the auto-box. This is the first diesel I've owned, so I have nothing to compare it to. But the auto seems to shift up through the gears very early. With normal acceleration it will shift around 2200 - 2500 rpm. Shifts aren't silky smooth, but they aren't clunky or noisy either. About what I'd expect for a 9yo auto. Do these boxes adjust to your driving patterns? The previous owner was an elderly gentleman whom I assume drove it very gently. I know these motors make their power earlier in the rev range, but do changes at 2200 - 2500rpm sound right? And lastly, the motor can surge a little at low to moderate cruising speeds. Most noticeable when just coming off acceleration returning the intake to neutral manifold pressure. Best way of describing it would be similar to those last few seconds right before you run out of petrol! I have read other posts where the car loses all power and goes into limp mode, but this is different. If I accelerate again the surging disappears and there is plenty of power. I am yet to check the intake for leaks but that's my first guess. Previous owner suggested fuel regulator but I'm not sure. Would appreciate any suggestions as to what else to check, or if there are common faults that can cause this sort of issue. Other than that the car is a cracker, very happy with our purchase!